I purchased a MX5400 hst this year and need a rotary cutter. I am in a very rolling area in PA with some hills that are a little concerning. It is also grown up with brush. small trees, etc. Also rocks that I need to clear as I am aware that they are not healthy for any rotary mower. With that said, I am looking at a 6' Landpride either 2072 or 2772. I need as rugged as I can get but am concerned that the additional 300# may be an issue and wondering how much additional power is required. The dealer has recommended the 2072 as the max, however I'm not convinced. Any input is appreciated.
MX5400 ROTARY MOWER SELECTION
- Thread starter rwann
- Start date
Tractor mowers, even HD, rough-cut mowers, are not designed to mow rocks.
Regarding rotary cutter weight, read and adhere to the Kubota (not LP) weight and width restrictions in your tractors Operators Manual.
FWIW: I used a Woods BB720X cutter with my L6060 because I already had it when I bought the tractor. This is a heavy cutter, about 1,200 Lbs. with F & R chains, and a bit beyond the weight limitation in the Operator's Manual for the 6060. I never mow with FELs attached and front weights were required on anything other than level ground. I installed the maximum number of weights that can be attached to the grill guard (5, IIRC) but the full set of 7 with the front weight bracket would have been better on steep ground. Though I had the front weight bracket and 7 weights, I did not install it because doing so required removing the grill guard and I would have needed to install/remove twice annually as I seasonally changed from mowing to FEL duties.
The 6060 did not well like the 720xs weight and lift components broke several times. I did replace the front chains with belting to reduce weight a bit but mostly to reduce the amount of debris thrown onto the rear of the tractor by the mower. The 6060 had adequate power in most of the conditions that I mowed but it wanted nothing more in heavy cover, even on level ground.
I once owned a Woods BB840X, 7' cutter which I used with a heavy 62 PTO HP MF tractor and later with a M9960. I did and do not like 7' cutters for multiple reasons, and I certainly would not recommend one for a L6060 or MX 6000 for multiple reasons unless conditions are light, terrain is not steep, and the cutter is light duty. Seven foot single-spindle cutters are long, have considerable weight well behind the lift arms, are more likely to scalp, and do not mow as well as do smaller single-spindle cutters.
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jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
I run the 2072 in my MX6000 and it doesn’t even load the tractor up. But I mostly cut grass, small shrubs, and small sapling trees. For anything larger or more frequent tree cutting, I would consider a brown tree cutter. And as has been mentioned rocks are not compatible with cutters. I would have no concerns about using a heavier cutter with my MX.
Good day.
Congrats on the MX. where’s the pics?
I can’t speak to whether a 2772 is more rugged than another brand or version, but an MX will run that with no issue IMO unless you are trying to grind stumps with it.
The weight of the implement is no issue for an MX IMO.
Depending on your hills and direction of travel, you may want weights or loader in for front ballast. I have some very hilly spots and have not had a problem but I leave my loader on. YMMV.
PTO power for me has not been an issue that is cutting thick saplings, 3’+ tall wet grass (waterways/trails)…it is just fine if tempering the speed…only time I have stalled is with a stump that I would have seen if not for tall grass
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All Of that being said, if you are planning to roll down the road and high HST range, do so at your own risk…if the road not smooth, you’ll know it is back there. To me that’s the only concern, but I don’t think that is brand specific.
Depending on how aggressively you use it, the rear guard may require some lovin’ periodically.
Taking the covers off to service is really my only complaint. I understand why they are there though.
The LP 2772 has done all I have asked. I have bought more property since getting the cutter…originally it was for woods and trail use mainly, now I have a pasture. I wish mine was wider now and believe Mx has plenty of power to handle wider. I would buy a wider cutter now with no hesitation.
Good luck.
Congrats on the MX. where’s the pics?
I can’t speak to whether a 2772 is more rugged than another brand or version, but an MX will run that with no issue IMO unless you are trying to grind stumps with it.
The weight of the implement is no issue for an MX IMO.
Depending on your hills and direction of travel, you may want weights or loader in for front ballast. I have some very hilly spots and have not had a problem but I leave my loader on. YMMV.
PTO power for me has not been an issue that is cutting thick saplings, 3’+ tall wet grass (waterways/trails)…it is just fine if tempering the speed…only time I have stalled is with a stump that I would have seen if not for tall grass
.All Of that being said, if you are planning to roll down the road and high HST range, do so at your own risk…if the road not smooth, you’ll know it is back there. To me that’s the only concern, but I don’t think that is brand specific.
Depending on how aggressively you use it, the rear guard may require some lovin’ periodically.
Taking the covers off to service is really my only complaint. I understand why they are there though.
The LP 2772 has done all I have asked. I have bought more property since getting the cutter…originally it was for woods and trail use mainly, now I have a pasture. I wish mine was wider now and believe Mx has plenty of power to handle wider. I would buy a wider cutter now with no hesitation.
Good luck.
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I've owned and used an RCR1884 for four years now, and have run it behind both MXs and the M6060, and although I've had no issues with the 7ft cutter, I would agree that a 7ft rotary cutter increases the chance of scalping vs. a smaller diameter cutter, but that's not exactly a shocking revelation. The RCR1884 is listed at 850lb without driveline or chains so it's in between the weights of the RCF2017 and RCF2772. Sometimes I think I should have bought a smaller but more robust model capable of handling abuse, particularly since I offer my services in the spring, summer and fall cutting unknown properties where obstacles are hidden in tall weeds or grass.
Here are the cutter specs from the MX5400/MX6000 owner's manual. You can see that the RCR1884 is fine according to Kubota, and the MX has sufficient power to meet the 45hp - 90hp recommendation for the cutter.
A bit of a tangent, but let's be honest about rotary cutters that are pulled behind a tractor. They aren't exactly the best way to do things. First off, you're driving over stuff before you cut it, and the blade cuts towards the tractor on one side and away from the tractor on the other. Both of these limitations to rear mounted rotary cutters can produce less than ideal results. The larger the cutter the more significant that affect can be. Flails result in a better quality cut i.e. more consistent regardless of ground speed since the hammers or knives are all cutting in the same direction i.e. towards the tractor.
I've never found the MX lacking in terms of PTO or engine power for the 7ft cutter and my place is very hilly, but I'm not hacking through 2" woody stems either. The only time that I raise the gauge wheels off the ground is when I'm driving on/off a trailer, or navigating an obstacle or weird transition, but at those times I'm moving slowly and not bouncing the cutter up and down on the 3-point.
Last year I bought an RC3712 which is kind of like pulling around three 5ft rotary cutters (6" of blade overlap). It does a much better job than the RCR1884 because the wheels of the tractor are rolling over less vegetation per pass, the cutter is better able to adjust to changes in the terrain, and there's less likelihood of scalping. Anyone wanting to cut or clear large areas in significantly less time and with better results might want to look at folding rotary cutters. The RC3712 has been a game-changer for me.
Here are the cutter specs from the MX5400/MX6000 owner's manual. You can see that the RCR1884 is fine according to Kubota, and the MX has sufficient power to meet the 45hp - 90hp recommendation for the cutter.
A bit of a tangent, but let's be honest about rotary cutters that are pulled behind a tractor. They aren't exactly the best way to do things. First off, you're driving over stuff before you cut it, and the blade cuts towards the tractor on one side and away from the tractor on the other. Both of these limitations to rear mounted rotary cutters can produce less than ideal results. The larger the cutter the more significant that affect can be. Flails result in a better quality cut i.e. more consistent regardless of ground speed since the hammers or knives are all cutting in the same direction i.e. towards the tractor.
I've never found the MX lacking in terms of PTO or engine power for the 7ft cutter and my place is very hilly, but I'm not hacking through 2" woody stems either. The only time that I raise the gauge wheels off the ground is when I'm driving on/off a trailer, or navigating an obstacle or weird transition, but at those times I'm moving slowly and not bouncing the cutter up and down on the 3-point.
Last year I bought an RC3712 which is kind of like pulling around three 5ft rotary cutters (6" of blade overlap). It does a much better job than the RCR1884 because the wheels of the tractor are rolling over less vegetation per pass, the cutter is better able to adjust to changes in the terrain, and there's less likelihood of scalping. Anyone wanting to cut or clear large areas in significantly less time and with better results might want to look at folding rotary cutters. The RC3712 has been a game-changer for me.
I appreciate the reply on my post. Attached are photos' of some of the acreage I will be cutting. It is very rolling. Any further comment is appreciated.
Again, I would not recommend a rough-cut mower wider than 6' for the reasons previously mentioned.
Nice property, and from where I sit it doesn't look that challenging, particularly for your MX.
I bought the RCR1884 on the advice of the local dealer and it has worked very well for me with no scalping issues of any kind cutting 50 or so acres. The specs state that it can cut as short as 2" but I don't use it as a lawn mower. I'm typically cutting down to the 3" to 4" range, and obviously the lower the cut height the greater the chance of the blades contacting the ground.
If I were buying a rotary cutter again I would most likely opt for the RCF2772 that @GrumpyFarmer has (or a similar model from Woods etc.) not because I'm against a 7ft cutter, but because I'd want a tougher, heavier cutter that's built to handle more abuse. I faced a similar decision when I bought the RC3712. It was a few thousand more than the RC2512 but it's around 1,000lb heavier because most every part is beefed up.
Have you looked into flails at all? Flails require less PTO power, place the weight much closer to the rear of the tractor, do a better job of mulching and run a lot quieter. I have a 62" wide flail (hydraulic offset ditch bank) that lives on the MX most of the summer. I've thought about selling the RCR1884 and buying an 88" or so offset flail mower but it's currently not a priority.
In a perfect world we'd be running flails on the front of our tractors, which is more common in Europe. Why the M6060/M7060 offered in the US doesn't have a front PTO and 3-point like it does in Europe is beyond me. If a kit were available I'd pick one up for sure.
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They shouldn’t call them rotary-cutters. They should call them rotary-Beaters.
Attempts to keep the blades sharp are a waste of time and money because it makes no difference to the end result.
If you want a clean ”cut” … you need a finish or a hammer mower.
A rotary cutter, brush cutter, shredder, bush-hog, whatever it is typically called is designed to cut/beat/shred brush/shrubs/small-trees as large as 2-3” and the maintenance of the cutting-edge is not important for those purposes.
I maintain 27 acres of turf aircraft runways plus general pasture grass (typically KR blue-stem) and use the shredder/rotary-cutter to first clear rough pasture as tall as 3’ or so but maintain the runways to less than 6” with a finish mower.
I think most folks will find Tractor Mike to be helpful with these things.
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Attempts to keep the blades sharp are a waste of time and money because it makes no difference to the end result.
If you want a clean ”cut” … you need a finish or a hammer mower.
A rotary cutter, brush cutter, shredder, bush-hog, whatever it is typically called is designed to cut/beat/shred brush/shrubs/small-trees as large as 2-3” and the maintenance of the cutting-edge is not important for those purposes.
I maintain 27 acres of turf aircraft runways plus general pasture grass (typically KR blue-stem) and use the shredder/rotary-cutter to first clear rough pasture as tall as 3’ or so but maintain the runways to less than 6” with a finish mower.
I think most folks will find Tractor Mike to be helpful with these things.
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