Is a quick hitch worth it when you have adjustable links

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
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Naw I "pieced" it together with some help from Old Hokey and other threads on here. The top link and 2 spool valve came from Summit, fittings from Amazon, and another online warehouse, and one hose was made locally. I'm still on the lookout for a tilt cylinder that doesn't have the lead time of fit-right. Might just do what others have and build my own.



I put together my own T&T for my L2501, no QH. I used a valve from summit that had float in both. It helps me if I put them in float to level a back blade or rake on the garage floor before I take it out. I glued a 2 way level vial I got at lowes in one of those HF magnetic bolt dishes. That is always on the fender handy to stick on the implement to set the top cylinder. The tilt cylinder I welded up myself to match the adjustable link.

Bill
 

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RCW

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@Sidekick - I haven't responded because a BX doesn't have extendable lift arms/links.

I also don't have any PTO attachments (yet).

I bought my $80 Harbor Freight QH years ago. Looks very similar to your Speeco.


Hasn't left the tractor since new. I did add Kenny's Extended Hook a few years ago. Game changer for me.

After some modifications to a couple of my implements, I can pick up/drop all of them without leaving my seat. I park some of them on pallets to facilitate that.

Not responsive to your question, but a QH is perfect for me.....
 
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Sidekick

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Kioti CK2620SE cab, RTV-X, BX2360, Z726XKW-3-60
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@Sidekick - I haven't responded because a BX doesn't have extendable lift arms/links.

I also don't have any PTO attachments (yet).

I bought my $80 Harbor Freight QH years ago. Looks very similar to your Speeco.


Hasn't left the tractor since new. I did add Kenny's Extended Hook a few years ago. Game changer for me.

After some modifications to a couple of my implements, I can pick up/drop all of them without leaving my seat. I park some of them on pallets to facilitate that.

Not responsive to your question, but a QH is perfect for me.....
Thanks. I'll have to look into that once I have it mounted. I was looking at it and thought a simple Hook that swings down may be easy to make and add to make my rake work.
 
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The Evil Twin

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Naw I "pieced" it together with some help from Old Hokey and other threads on here. The top link and 2 spool valve came from Summit, fittings from Amazon, and another online warehouse, and one hose was made locally. I'm still on the lookout for a tilt cylinder that doesn't have the lead time of fit-right. Might just do what others have and build my own.



Thank you. I'll look into it. The price is tempting, but I don't need another project to figure out right now. That's why I was looking at the whole kit from K. Time or money.....when you have one, you don't have the other. Lol!!
Edit- guess I don't have either. After $16k in outdoor living upgrades for the wife, the "fun fund" is a little low. 😕
 
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Sidekick

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@Sidekick - I haven't responded because a BX doesn't have extendable lift arms/links.

I also don't have any PTO attachments (yet).

I bought my $80 Harbor Freight QH years ago. Looks very similar to your Speeco.


Hasn't left the tractor since new. I did add Kenny's Extended Hook a few years ago. Game changer for me.

After some modifications to a couple of my implements, I can pick up/drop all of them without leaving my seat. I park some of them on pallets to facilitate that.

Not responsive to your question, but a QH is perfect for me.....
Just wondering what the extended hook gains? My hook sticks out 3/4" from the top frame and that Kenny's one is about the same from what I can find. I'm thinking the hook may need pins with removable clips instead of bolts.
1000003383.jpg
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Don't have one ( no need) but 'extended' may change the 'geometry' of how it hooks up to the implement ?
Sometimes just a little change in a part makes a world of difference
 
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McMXi

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Just wondering what the extended hook gains? My hook sticks out 3/4" from the top frame and that Kenny's one is about the same from what I can find. I'm thinking the hook may need pins with removable clips instead of bolts.
View attachment 149909
The position of your top hook looks similar to the one on my QH15. Yep, pins are definitely easier to deal with than bolts. The QH15 came with the pins shown, and I swapped them out for bolts thinking that I didn't need to move the hook around, but then swapped them back when I realized that wasn't the case.

qh15_1.jpg


qh15_2.jpg
 
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FTG-05

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L4330 w/FEL, RTV-XG850 and ZD326S
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I have one, a Harbor Freight variety. For the cost, for a Cat 1 machine, it's hard to beat. You might need to get the top hook that extends out another 1" but it's like $20 on Amazon. I spent a little bit of time getting all my implements set up the same, and man is it sweet, especially now with the hydraulic top link, I can drop and swap without getting off the tractor. My PTO implements all had enough overlap to be safely used without buying new shafts. I did buy some cat 1 to cat 2 conversion bushings on Amazon but for ease of hook up, and not having to leave the seat, well worth the investment to me.
On sale right now:

3-Point Quick Hitch for Tractors - 27-3/16" Clearance
 
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PHPaul

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like a lot of things its viewed as a latest and greatest toy/must have, an option for some, a must for others, and for some like me I don't see the need.

I have survived so far in life without. On a daily basis I might have to change a cat 3 implement once or twice at most so I find with good equipment maintenance, experience and a trusty pry bar at the ready I have survived and enjoyed life w/o. There was a time years back I spent more time in the seat of equipment than in my own bed.

That being said I don't think they are a bad thing. Just I have never had a burning desire to have one and the worry of pto lengths than can arise.

just my 2 cents and I am probably I am the very small minority here.
This^^^

All of the above, plus having to ensure that ALL of your 3PH gear has the attachment points set to the same standard.
 
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Sidekick

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Kioti CK2620SE cab, RTV-X, BX2360, Z726XKW-3-60
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Got the extension for pto shaft and hopefully I am all set now to get started when the weather warms. Cheap Amazon one that had good reviews.
1000003385.jpg

Found the Vevor top link comes with the correct quick connects for my remotes but the link length I need is sold out. Should be back in stock next month. I see many are happy with them and the only problem seems to be the hydraulic hose seal washers can leak on the right angle swivel that goes in the locking block, but a good set of replacements is cheap. Same setup is available from Holland with 3 day air freight but I'd rather wait and buy with a 1 year warranty.
1741468931702.jpeg
 
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jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
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Got the extension for pto shaft and hopefully I am all set now to get started when the weather warms. Cheap Amazon one that had good reviews.
View attachment 149934
Found the Vevor top link comes with the correct quick connects for my remotes but the link length I need is sold out. Should be back in stock next month. I see many are happy with them and the only problem seems to be the hydraulic hose seal washers can leak on the right angle swivel that goes in the locking block, but a good set of replacements is cheap. Same setup is available from Holland with 3 day air freight but I'd rather wait and buy with a 1 year warranty.
View attachment 149939
Sure seems to be a lot on unnecessary plumbing on that. Mine just has 2 connections attached to the cylinder body that the hoses attach to.
 
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Sidekick

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Sure seems to be a lot on unnecessary plumbing on that. Mine just has 2 connections attached to the cylinder body that the hoses attach to.
From what I understand you need that lock block so you can't damage the tractor hydraulics. With an implement even just bouncing going down the road without that you can put 10,000 psi or more on the hoses and valves. That isolates the pressure surges and locks the cylinder in place.
 

jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
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From what I understand you need that lock block so you can't damage the tractor hydraulics. With an implement even just bouncing going down the road without that you can put 10,000 psi or more on the hoses and valves. That isolates the pressure surges and locks the cylinder in place.
Interesting. Mine was a Kubota kit installed by the dealer. It doesn’t have a lock block.
 
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Sidekick

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Interesting. Mine was a Kubota kit installed by the dealer. It doesn’t have a lock block.
Maybe what I read on the internet is wrong 😲. Could it be that bigger tractors have stronger hydraulics?
 
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rh74

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Maybe what I read on the internet is wrong 😲. Could it be that bigger tractors have stronger hydraulics?
I have an lx2610 and bought my top link cylinder from land pride. It doesn't have check valves. The check valves are nice as they hold the set position. The theory of the over pressure would be the same for loader cylinder as well and I haven't seen the check valves on them.
 
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jyoutz

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I have an lx2610 and bought my top link cylinder from land pride. It doesn't have check valves. The check valves are nice as they hold the set position. The theory of the over pressure would be the same for loader cylinder as well and I haven't seen the check valves on them.
I have both toplink and tilt cylinders. The toplink seems to hold position, but the tilt cylinder will bleed down overnight.
 
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rh74

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I have both toplink and tilt cylinders. The toplink seems to hold position, but the tilt cylinder will bleed down overnight.
What your experiencing is typically. Without the check valves it will leak down. The side link might be binding up the toplink enough so you don't see the bleed down or it's just that the toplink valve doesn't leak down that much. My toplink leaks down. You can add the check valves yourself if the leak down is an issue. For me it's not and I only bought the Land Pride cylinder because it was a guarantee fit. I'm getting lazy in my old age.

I guess my point is that not having the check valves doesn't mean you will damage your hydraulic system.

Now if you're bouncing along with a full bucket of material on the front end loader or an implement on the three point hitch, you have a change of doing damage to the tractor with or without the check valves. The damage most likely will be structural, like bent loader or three point arms.

For me slow and steady wins the race.
 
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McMXi

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For me slow and steady wins the race.
I agree. Nothing good comes from having an implement bouncing up and down on the rear of the tractor. When moving with the 7ft rotary cutter I make sure that the weight is on the gauge wheels at the rear unless getting on/off a trailer. The flail is a different animal with its hydraulic offset, but I minimize moving with it off the ground as much as possible.
 
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RCW

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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
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Just wondering what the extended hook gains? My hook sticks out 3/4" from the top frame and that Kenny's one is about the same from what I can find. I'm thinking the hook may need pins with removable clips instead of bolts.
View attachment 149909
You will learn if an extended hook is warranted quickly.

Hard to describe, but it will be evident.

I have 5 (?) 3PH implements, and can hook/drop all of them without leaving my seat.

I do sometimes need to leave my seat to make my manual top link the proper length to make things work the way I want them.

Your stock hook looks very similar to the extended hook I got from @Kennyd4110.

I think it gives 7/16” (?) added reach and the geometry of the hook itself is a little different. The Boltonhooks.com was a huge improvement over what I had but might be similar to your factory hook.

The one @McMXi looks to give better reach also.

Not sure I have a handy picture of the stock hook for my Harbor Freight HQ.

I don't need pins and clips for my hook. All my implements work with the hook at this location. Don't need to change it.

IMG_7627.jpeg
 
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