New kid in school, seeking advice.

[cpow]

LOL

It was a great tractor. It did everything we asked of it and then some. It also never needed much but it was about as easy it gets to work on.

I think you have eliminated the BX but for what it is worth I use a grapple , front loader , pallet forks a box blade and an airiator with my BX 2680 and it does the job . I have a PTO fertilizer spreader on order just sometime have to do the job slower.

I like the BX series a lot but they are a little bit too small for my needs. If I only had a couple acres to take care of and less heavy-ish lifting it would probably fit the bill perfectly. I just see myself outgrowing a BX quickly and I'd rather skip that part of the process and start with something a bit more capable. I think the LX line up is where I will focus on looking for now. If it is enough to get the property in shape I think it will be the perfect size to keep up on the property maintenance side of things and hopefully not need to go larger in the future.

 

[McMXi]

I like the BX series a lot but they are a little bit too small for my needs. If I only had a couple acres to take care of and less heavy-ish lifting it would probably fit the bill perfectly. I just see myself outgrowing a BX quickly and I'd rather skip that part of the process and start with something a bit more capable.

I made do with a BX25 on my 20 acres for five years being blissfully ignorant of what a bigger tractor offered. I jumped up to an MX6000 and initially thought I'd keep the BX25, but a couple of weeks in I realized that I had little to no use for such a small tractor.

I've learned that an MX6000 or L6060 is the absolute minimum tractor in terms of power, size and weight that I want to own or use. That's just my reality based on owning the wrong tractor for five years!! Everyone figures this out in their own way and if someone is happy with a BX25 then that's a good thing.

 

[nbryan]

It was a great tractor. It did everything we asked of it and then some. It also never needed much but it was about as easy it gets to work on.




I like the BX series a lot but they are a little bit too small for my needs. If I only had a couple acres to take care of and less heavy-ish lifting it would probably fit the bill perfectly. I just see myself outgrowing a BX quickly and I'd rather skip that part of the process and start with something a bit more capable. I think the LX line up is where I will focus on looking for now. If it is enough to get the property in shape I think it will be the perfect size to keep up on the property maintenance side of things and hopefully not need to go larger in the future.

I started my tractor journey with a hand-crank-the-flywheel start 2 cyl JD Model B with the compression relief valves. cha-chug, cha-chug cha-chug and close them, you're away. I worked with a Deutz air-cooled beast for a few years in there somewhere.

Tinkered with a well worn late 40's Farmall Cub then the Kubota bug got me and the B2650HSD and kit are the result. My construction business needed and could afford the tools at the time in 2017.

That ancient 9 HP 4 cyl gas farmall cub is still in service. Strawberry farm crop maintenance about 10 miles from us. That little 4-cyl gas engine still started in a blink and idled smooth, pulled just fine for the frame it's on. That tractor is older than my 66 years, ffs.

 

[Donystoy]

I purchased a lx2610 in 2022 and maintain about 10 acres of my 88 acre farm. I initially wanted more pto hp than the lx2610 has but was talked out of it by the dealer mostly because of the 3350 issues and support from Kubota. Since I wanted to stay with Kubota I went with the lx2610. Although wishing that it had more power l am happy with it. It is also light enough to trailer if wanting to haul it behind my vehicle which has 7200 lb towing capacity.

 

[RMS]

I bought a LX2610 cabbed version in the fall of 2021 primarily for snow blowing. But man, have I found all sorts of other uses from mowing paths around our fields with the flail mower, clearing overgrowth with the brush hog, moving stuff with the forks and recently got a grapple, not to mention the hours of chipping.
Mowing the lawn is done with a zero turn.

 

[biketopia]

I have a B2650 and love it. Used to run a 72" finish mower to cut the grass, old cow pastures, I have like 6 trees, and it did great, just slow compared to a ZT. I Picked up a scag 61" and do all the grass in easily 60-90 min less. I added the 3rd function myself from Summit Hydraulics and with the help of the forum added rear remotes for a hydraulic top link. That with a quick hitch makes swapping implements so easy. Also highly suggest a loader with SSQA for easy from implement changes. If you can find one I'd go look at it. Bought mine used in 2021 with 104 hours for $14k. Stepping up to an L of similar HP, or even higher HP (do not be scared of tier 4 emissions on newer stuff,) wouldn't hurt because then you have that extra power when needed, more PTO power for larger implements, if needed, and more weight. Weight is traction and stability for pulling a land plane or box blade, etc.

 

[nbryan]

Some jobs a larger heavier costlier tractor could do in less time.
Some jobs my compact tractor can't do.
But for all the work that it's needed for here, it can handle, just maybe a bit slower than her bigger sister tractors. The main thing is to size the implements and attachments accordingly, so they're not over or under powered. For example, My 60" x 15" box blade is just right. I can pull it fully loaded, and rarely traction out meaning lug engine or spin wheels while using it.
But it will take more passes than a 72"x18" on a 35HP+ machine, so take longer. So be it.
But the bigger machines also:
- suck more fuel and lubricants, $ for maintenance
- Won't pull behind my reliable workhorse '06 Tacoma
- have bigger loan payments
- their weight also means they get REALLY stuck, faster. It's boggy around here...
- can't pass off as garden equipment for insurance purposes. They're farm tools.
- won't squeeze through those rough/tight/low forest/brush spaces
- take up more room in the garage/shop

Get the right size for your situation. But just saying, bigger isn't always better.

Anyway, that's my Thursday morning rant for ya.

 

[cpow]

After reading everything here (a couple times) and comparing prices/models I think I have settled on searching for a lightly used LX2610 or the newer version LX2620 if I come across one in my searches.

Thank you everyone that has commented and tried to help clear things up and for reassuring me that I didn't miss out on a deal with that original B3350 I walked away from.

I have a feeling I'll be here for the long haul soaking in information across the forum, I'll be sure to share when I finally pull the trigger on a tractor!

 

[dirtydeed]

After reading everything here (a couple times) and comparing prices/models I think I have settled on searching for a lightly used LX2610 or the newer version LX2620 if I come across one in my searches.

Thank you everyone that has commented and tried to help clear things up and for reassuring me that I didn't miss out on a deal with that original B3350 I walked away from.

I have a feeling I'll be here for the long haul soaking in information across the forum, I'll be sure to share when I finally pull the trigger on a tractor!

Best of luck to you in whatever you settle on.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

@cpow : You're in Milton, Wisconsin? How big a blower do you plan on running and how much drive do you expect to blow?

Related: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...479-snowblower-combination.17615/#post-139262

 

[cpow]

@cpow : You're in Milton, Wisconsin? How big a blower do you plan on running and how much drive do you expect to blow?

Related: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...479-snowblower-combination.17615/#post-139262

Yessir. Milton, WI. I'm honestly not sure, the property we purchased has access via a one lane easement that dead ends and splits to 2 different neighboring homes/property so assuming the snow removal responsibilities are shared, I could be blowing up to 1/4 mile. Though it's only 1 lane, so ~2(?) passes. Our personal driveway will probably end up ~250-300'. What would an appropriate size blower for an LX 2610/2620 be?

Edit: I think I may be overestimating the length of the easement. It is probably a bit shy of a 1/4 mile. Maybe ~1000'.

 

[nbryan]

Yessir. Milton, WI. I'm honestly not sure, the property we purchased has access via a one lane easement that dead ends and splits to 2 different neighboring homes/property so assuming the snow removal responsibilities are shared, I could be blowing up to 1/4 mile. Though it's only 1 lane, so ~2(?) passes. Our personal driveway will probably end up ~250-300'. What would an appropriate size blower for an LX 2610/2620 be?

Edit: I think I may be overestimating the length of the easement. It is probably a bit shy of a 1/4 mile. Maybe ~1000'.

My B2782B Snow Blower has an equivalent for the LX, about the same size at 63", for a front mount anyway. Does great! I've kept 1000 ft driveways clear for neighbors, as well as our own 400 feet, parking area, and various trails.

 

[bird dogger]

In your location that has more mild winters....and with the longer approach driveway.... a 5 ft pto blower behind your LX sized tractor would be perfect. That leaves your loader's quick attach available for a snow pusher blade or an angled blade for driving forward during all those lighter snowfalls.

For your occasional heavier snowfalls that would actually require the snowblower.... a nice wide rear-view mirror makes using that blower easy.

Even here in eastern ND, I use my B2650's front pusher blade far more than the snowblower just because it's quicker on all the lighter snowfalls. And the blower is perfect ballast on the rear end for adding traction. Plus, it's much easier to roll the front blade forward to pull snow back away from OH doors or any
other spot that might need some finesse.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

@cpow : My original plan was to get a plow and double-auger setup like @bird dogger has, which is probably the best and most affordable configuration.

My current setup (thanks to a fellow member) is swapping between a plow and blower (both on the front). I think the BX23 is a little under-powered for the blower I'm using, and swapping kind of sucks however my ancient neck likes having both as front-mounted units.

At some point I'll try someone's 3-point blower and see how much I like it, for now I'm set thanks to @Speed25.

 

[McMXi]

In your location that has more mild winters....and with the longer approach driveway.... a 5 ft pto blower behind your LX sized tractor would be perfect. That leaves your loader's quick attach available for a snow pusher blade or an angled blade for driving forward during all those lighter snowfalls.

For your occasional heavier snowfalls that would actually require the snowblower.... a nice wide rear-view mirror makes using that blower easy.

Even here in eastern ND, I use my B2650's front pusher blade far more than the snowblower just because it's quicker on all the lighter snowfalls. And the blower is perfect ballast on the rear end for adding traction. Plus, it's much easier to roll the front blade forward to pull snow back away from OH doors or any
other spot that might need some finesse.
View attachment 149515

I asked you about your blower recently and a few days later a 7ft version of what you have showed up on Craigslist. If I didn't have a Land Pride SB1574 that works well for me, I would most likely be dragging another implement home.

7 foot Lorenz 3pt snowblower will consider trades - farm & garden - by owner - sale - craigslist

7 foot 3 point hitch ,540 hook up, snowblower, dual auger, manual chute in real good condition. Always been covered

kalispell.craigslist.org

 

[McMXi]

@cpow : My original plan was to get a plow and double-auger setup like @bird dogger has, which is probably the best and most affordable configuration.

I think a front hydraulic angle snow blade or hydraulic angle now pusher up front with a pull forward (inverted) snow blower out back would be the ultimate set up. My blower isn't inverted but it's not a problem for me to back up, at the moment at least.

@Moose7060, what model of inverted blower do you have.

 

[bird dogger]

I asked you about your blower recently and a few days later a 7ft version of what you have showed up on Craigslist. If I didn't have a Land Pride SB1574 that works well for me, I would most likely be dragging another implement home.

7 foot Lorenz 3pt snowblower will consider trades - farm & garden - by owner - sale - craigslist

7 foot 3 point hitch ,540 hook up, snowblower, dual auger, manual chute in real good condition. Always been covered

kalispell.craigslist.org

At that price, you could afford to have it sit in the corner until needed. LOL
But I'm sure you'd first be sandblasting and giving it a fresh Kubota orange paint job. The Catepillar Yellow desn't really compliment Kubota's orange color!

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I think a front hydraulic angle snow blade or hydraulic angle now pusher up front with a pull forward (inverted) snow blower out back would be the ultimate set up. My blower isn't inverted but it's not a problem for me to back up, at the moment at least.

My snow packs to ice when run over due to unusual environmental conditions created by the tree opening (warm enough to pack, not warm enough to melt), so it's more desirable to blow on the way down the drive and plow (scrape) on the way back, running over as little snow as practical.

I have wondered (for other situations) how well the forward-facing 3-point blower (reverse blower) works.

 

[fried1765]

How often do they run financing deals like that? I have seen some in the past and I think that's probably the only way I would splurge for several attachments at once unless I was finding them used on marketplace or other places. 0% is tough to beat and makes looking at new much more appealing.

0% is actually a manufacturer sales gimmick.
The interest cost is actually built into the selling price!

 

[cpow]

@cpow : My original plan was to get a plow and double-auger setup like @bird dogger has, which is probably the best and most affordable configuration.

My current setup (thanks to a fellow member) is swapping between a plow and blower (both on the front). I think the BX23 is a little under-powered for the blower I'm using, and swapping kind of sucks however my ancient neck likes having both as front-mounted units.

At some point I'll try someone's 3-point blower and see how much I like it, for now I'm set thanks to @Speed25.

I have considered a plow/pusher set up for the front. It would most likely do the job just fine (especially because winter here isn't like it used to be when I was a kid) but my only "concern" would be that the easement is a narrow one lane and would eventually end up with large windrows on both sides, not being able to push snow off the drive effectively. I figured a snowblower would be the solution long term because it's able to eliminate the possibility of windrows building up.

I think a front hydraulic angle snow blade or hydraulic angle now pusher up front with a pull forward (inverted) snow blower out back would be the ultimate set up. My blower isn't inverted but it's not a problem for me to back up, at the moment at least.

@Moose7060, what model of inverted blower do you have.

That may be the case, if I did go with a 3 pt blower it would have to be inverted or "hybrid."

My snow packs to ice when run over due to unusual environmental conditions created by the tree opening (warm enough to pack, not warm enough to melt), so it's more desirable to blow on the way down the drive and plow (scrape) on the way back, running over as little snow as practical.

I have wondered (for other situations) how well the forward-facing 3-point blower (reverse blower) works.

I'm not sure that is a concern for me, the easement is gravel and a large portion of our personal driveway will be stone. Whatever setup I end up with will most likely not be running on the ground. Though definitely something to consider if we were to go with asphalt in the future like we are thinking we will.