LX2610 vs Bobcat CT2025

[PaulL]

The L2501 is quite crude compared to the Bobcat, the lx has some of the upgrades like better seat, remote, and more ergonomic loader valve. Check them all out before deciding what's best for your needs.

The L2501 and the LX2650 have about the same capacity on paper.

The LX is a machine made for homeowners. It's got a lot of alloy castings. They're still strong, but it's a lot lighter machine. That means it won't rut up your lawn, you can run a MMM, you can trailer it easily. It also is the top end of the homeowner machines - it tends to go to people who aren't short of money. It has lots of more luxury features.

The L2501 is a heavier and more solidly built machine, and is the economy end of the utility tractors. It has a 1.3L engine that's detuned to sneak under the emissions horsepower threshold - so it makes its power at really low RPM, and it's very under stressed. It has a lot of torque and is more capable than it seems on paper - same HP as the LX, but way more torque and way lower revs. It also has a loader that lifts higher, so whilst is seems they lift the same, the L lifts higher. That also means that, to the same height as the LX, it lifts more. And it's a heavier machine, so it'll do more before you lift the rear wheels.

Of course, you can add weight to an LX if you want it heavier, you can't remove weight from an L.

To me, it really comes down to whether you are in the homeowner category and would like a bit more refinement, and are mostly doing around home tasks. Or you have a bit of acreage and need more metal and heft in your machine. If you want a cab, a MMM or a front snowblower then the L can't do those things. If you don't need any of those three things and are OK with the weight, then the L2501 is good buying.

The Kioti I believe is more in the L category than the LX - it's a larger, heavier and less luxurious machine than the LX.

As always, you really should go and sit on them and decide which one you like. Other people's opinions and things you read on the internet don't really tie to reality in the ways you think. They're actually all good machines, they all have their space in the market. The question isn't which one is better, but rather which one is better FOR YOU.

 

[Sidekick]

The L2501 and the LX2650 have about the same capacity on paper.

The LX is a machine made for homeowners. It's got a lot of alloy castings. They're still strong, but it's a lot lighter machine. That means it won't rut up your lawn, you can run a MMM, you can trailer it easily. It also is the top end of the homeowner machines - it tends to go to people who aren't short of money. It has lots of more luxury features.

The L2501 is a heavier and more solidly built machine, and is the economy end of the utility tractors. It has a 1.3L engine that's detuned to sneak under the emissions horsepower threshold - so it makes its power at really low RPM, and it's very under stressed. It has a lot of torque and is more capable than it seems on paper - same HP as the LX, but way more torque and way lower revs. It also has a loader that lifts higher, so whilst is seems they lift the same, the L lifts higher. That also means that, to the same height as the LX, it lifts more. And it's a heavier machine, so it'll do more before you lift the rear wheels.

Of course, you can add weight to an LX if you want it heavier, you can't remove weight from an L.

To me, it really comes down to whether you are in the homeowner category and would like a bit more refinement, and are mostly doing around home tasks. Or you have a bit of acreage and need more metal and heft in your machine. If you want a cab, a MMM or a front snowblower then the L can't do those things. If you don't need any of those three things and are OK with the weight, then the L2501 is good buying.

The Kioti I believe is more in the L category than the LX - it's a larger, heavier and less luxurious machine than the LX.

As always, you really should go and sit on them and decide which one you like. Other people's opinions and things you read on the internet don't really tie to reality in the ways you think. They're actually all good machines, they all have their space in the market. The question isn't which one is better, but rather which one is better FOR YOU.

I started out wanting the LX2620 cab but after finding it didn't have the heavier front axle or new transmission they gave the 35 and 40 hp machines and was hard to get in and out of plus the outrageous price I started looking at other machines. The L didn't have a cab option and had the loader control in a bad position for my comfort so didn't bother with pricing it out. Looked at Kioti and they have the open station ck2620 that's like a l2620 with a better seat and the cab model I got that has more options standard then the lx with easy entry and a more comfortable seat. That's why it pays to look at them all. I never thought about the Kioti brand before but went with the most comfortable tractor with the nicest fit and finish in a price range that was excellent for features it had. The 2 pedal system is really what sealed my deal. That's why it's worth taking the blinders off for a big purchase and try them all.

 

[DinoEdwards]

L3901 found with third function with bucket and 4k grapple, repaired arms 1800hrs for 12K no way!
Hood damage and not pretty but that's a good price.
The repaired arms worry me.
Shown pix of repair and records 4k to repair arms, will take 15K for it and trailer. 2021 1800 hrs. Thoughts?
Any problems with regen on theses?

 

[dirtydeed]

L3901 found with third function with bucket and 4k grapple, repaired arms 1800hrs for 12K no way!
Hood damage and not pretty but that's a good price.
The repaired arms worry me.
Shown pix of repair and records 4k to repair arms, will take 15K for it and trailer. 2021 1800 hrs. Thoughts?
Any problems with regen on theses?

Hard pass on that one.

Have you looked at new pricing with zero percent financing?

 

[Orange man]

L3901 found with third function with bucket and 4k grapple, repaired arms 1800hrs for 12K no way!
Hood damage and not pretty but that's a good price.
The repaired arms worry me.
Shown pix of repair and records 4k to repair arms, will take 15K for it and trailer. 2021 1800 hrs. Thoughts?
Any problems with regen on theses?

Looks like a pile of junk to me, I would pay salvage price for it. The L3301 and L3901 don't seem to have a bunch of Regen problems ,but the common rail fuel system does not like a lack of maintenance, and this tractor looks like that was not done.

 

[RCW]

L3901 found with third function with bucket and 4k grapple, repaired arms 1800hrs for 12K no way!
Hood damage and not pretty but that's a good price.
The repaired arms worry me.
Shown pix of repair and records 4k to repair arms, will take 15K for it and trailer. 2021 1800 hrs. Thoughts?
Any problems with regen on theses?

Yeah, definitely stay away from that one. Looks like it’s been ridden pretty hard.

That said, a lot of guys really like their L3901 tractors. Seem to be pretty reliable.

 

[DinoEdwards]

Yeah, definitely stay away from that one. Looks like it’s been ridden pretty hard.

That said, a lot of guys really like their L3901 tractors. Seem to be pretty reliable.

so
I have looked at financing but they tell me I have Great credit 800 but no credit, everything paid off so no credit, need a cash deal.
How about this L35 1996 model, no regen? Asking way to mush at 18k
Also looking at Kioti DX45S with 7 attachments for 16k

 

[Sidekick]

Sounds like you haven't determined exactly how much tractor you need and should figure that out first. Looking at online pictures of tractors can't determine the value. Inspection, maintenance records, and test driving will be part of the process on older and beat looking machines. Spending 4k to patch loader arms without replacing the sheet metal damage doesn't make sense when a new set isn't much more. There are many online crooks and when you don't buy from a dealer like this started, there's zero warranty even on non disclosed things.

 

[DinoEdwards]

Sounds like you haven't determined exactly how much tractor you need and should figure that out first. Looking at online pictures of tractors can't determine the value. Inspection, maintenance records, and test driving will be part of the process on older and beat looking machines. Spending 4k to patch loader arms without replacing the sheet metal damage doesn't make sense when a new set isn't much more. There are many online crooks and when you don't buy from a dealer like this started, there's zero warranty even on non disclosed things.

Ok I hear you, just need/want the best tractor for the money for 6 acre homestead for moving trees and brush, garden and other odd jobs.
Plus I can't buy new and won't use it everyday. Mostly likely 20-30hrs a year.
Now I see your point on the 3901 he should have bought a new loader.
Reasons why people do what they do is any bodies guess, maybe he had a friend at the shop?
Gonna pass on it.
My budget is 10-15k for a good 4x4 at least a "B" or a "L" but damn people are proud of these.
Won't buy an BX too small and don't like them.
Kioti looks and sounds like a good machine. I don't know LS, Ford, YYM. I own a Deere zero and Kubota, G1800s with a front blade, deck and 3 point withy leaf collection unit. I do my own repairs so I want something easy to fix myself if needed.
Yes, L2501 is great but can't justify 20k for part time use so looking for biggest for the money I can get.

 

[DinoEdwards]

I believe the Kubota L2800 is the predecessor to the L2501 but with 29hp and no Regen.
I found one with quick connect bucket with just over 2000 hrs, 453 loader.
Under 10k asking, a little rough but want I can afford.
The tires don't look right, especially front??
Perfect size for my 5 acres just playing around moving stuff.
Thought?

 

[PaulL]

I believe the Kubota L2800 is the predecessor to the L2501 but with 29hp and no Regen.
I found one with quick connect bucket with just over 2000 hrs, 453 loader.
Under 10k asking, a little rough but want I can afford.
The tires don't look right, especially front??
Perfect size for my 5 acres just playing around moving stuff.
Thought?

Front tires are industrial/bar tires (otherwise known as R4), rears are ag tires (R1). You're not really supposed to mix and match tires like that, the rolling circumference of the R4 and R1 is a bit different. It's not the end of the world if you only use 4WD on grass (as you're supposed to). But if you use 4wd on hard surfaces, the different circumference could put a lot of stress on the drivetrain.

It's not that hard to replace tires - often times you can buy the rims and tires as a complete set for not much money from your local dealer.

Looks like some of the panels are broken, hard to say much else from the photos. Cosmetics aren't what makes a tractor - do all the functions work, does the engine run well, 4wd run well, hydraulic functions on the loader all work? HST or gear drive?

 

[DinoEdwards]

Front tires are industrial/bar tires (otherwise known as R4), rears are ag tires (R1). You're not really supposed to mix and match tires like that, the rolling circumference of the R4 and R1 is a bit different. It's not the end of the world if you only use 4WD on grass (as you're supposed to). But if you use 4wd on hard surfaces, the different circumference could put a lot of stress on the drivetrain.

It's not that hard to replace tires - often times you can buy the rims and tires as a complete set for not much money from your local dealer.

Looks like some of the panels are broken, hard to say much else from the photos. Cosmetics aren't what makes a tractor - do all the functions work, does the engine run well, 4wd run well, hydraulic functions on the loader all work? HST or gear drive?

Hydro, and yes it looks rough. My concern was 2k hrs on hydro. I did pass on a B7800 for 10k with 900hrs, but the "L" is want I like best. What does blow by look like? Will see it today or tomorrow and only offer 7-7500 it drives ok.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hydro, and yes it looks rough. My concern was 2k hrs on hydro. I did pass on a B7800 for 10k with 900hrs, but the "L" is want I like best. What does blow by look like? Will see it today or tomorrow and only offer 7-7500 it drives ok.

2k on a hydro is nothing if it's been maintained.

Blowby will be from a tube on the left hand side of the engine off the valve cover.
Either it's smoking/ blowing out that tube or not, don't mistake steam as smoke, same with exhaust.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Hydro, and yes it looks rough. My concern was 2k hrs on hydro. I did pass on a B7800 for 10k with 900hrs, but the "L" is want I like best. What does blow by look like? Will see it today or tomorrow and only offer 7-7500 it drives ok.

It hasn't be treated gently, but looks ok for 20 years old. The sync tube on the SSQA can be replaced and welded easily. Probably worth $10k if it runs good and everything checks out.

Looks like the rear wheels might have been replaced, just by looking at the paint. I'd check the rear tire size and see if it's the OEM size. If so, and you're willing to go with R1's, I'd be thinking about new R1 tires and wheels on the front.