Hi everyone great to find the site! I’ve recently picked up a b2710 but the only catch so far is the fuel injection pump leaks. It’s not an insane amount but while working it’ll make little puddles under it. It seems to run and drive fine. Anyways I can’t find any information on this 1.3l 4 cylinder only the 3 cylinder pumps. Are they the same and I need a new o-ring/ washer for the lines ? Also what’s the bleeding procedure if I do decide to tackle the job. I’m mechanically inclined I just have never worked on a little diesel tractor before I know how easy it is to do more harm than good not knowing what you’re doing. The dealer said he’d have to send the pump out to get it fixed but it has to be an oring etc because it’s coming from the top/ the lines not like the injection pump itself is leaking. I haven’t tried to tighten them yet but in my personal experience it’s never just that easy.
B2710 leaking at fuel injection pump
- Thread starter Lineituplawncare
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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If the pump is leaking at the delivery valve holders (red line on the print) it will need to sent to be rebuilt, it is NOT a DYI service job.
If it's leaking at the line connections (green) then there is NO O-rings or added seals of any kind.
There is just flare fittings on the line to delivery valve holders.
DO NOT remove the delivery valve holders and the security screws.
Hold the delivery valves from turning and loosen the lines, do not bend the lines, just lift slightly.
Clean the connection and add a little oil to the threads of the delivery valve holder and tighten the injection line.
If you do it like that you should not have to bleed anything.
If it's leaking at the line connections (green) then there is NO O-rings or added seals of any kind.
There is just flare fittings on the line to delivery valve holders.
DO NOT remove the delivery valve holders and the security screws.
Hold the delivery valves from turning and loosen the lines, do not bend the lines, just lift slightly.
Clean the connection and add a little oil to the threads of the delivery valve holder and tighten the injection line.
If you do it like that you should not have to bleed anything.
Hi thanks for the reply, since I posted this I’ve talked to the dealer and they sent me the number of the place that rebuilds them for them. I called them and the guy was super nice. I told him it was leaking at the hold down in been the front line and 2nd line. He said a rebuild is about $400-600. I told him I’ve seen ppl just take the lines and pump off and replace just the orings and it stops leaking. He said that is what he did on his own tractor and worked and same with the actual mechanic at the dealer they just said it’d be an hour of work but no warranty just because they aren’t going through the whole pump. My thought tho is if the pumps fine and it’s just a 20 yr old dry rotted oring why do I have to rebuild the whole pump ? I’ve talked to a few ppl and they are 90% sure the oring will fix it but almost nobody wants to do just that they want to rebuild the whole pump. I’m not trying to be cheap but not also trying to give someone $600 for an hour of labor and $10 of orings. Here’s the parts breakdown as far as I’m concerned it looks pretty straightforward. Ps I’ll probably just pay to get rebuilt but deciding between that or taking the chance and paying the $90 in shop labor and $10 in o rings. Everything I’ve read also says it’s pretty easy to get on and off. Is there anything to watch for when removing it to take over to the shop?
Oh and also worth mentioning I got a better look today and it’s definitely coming for under the hold down plate inbetween the first and second line. When it’s running I can see it bubbling out just a tad.
Russell King
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If you remove the pump there are shims between the block and the pump mounting face. You need to be kept track of ALL the shims and make sure they get put back on when replacing the pump.
I would not get into an injection pump but have it repaired by someone who has done the job before and has the tools to get it correct the first time.
I would not get into an injection pump but have it repaired by someone who has done the job before and has the tools to get it correct the first time.
The mechanic at the dealer had mentioned the shims. He said it pretty much just like u, and I asked if they were easy to lose or drop down into the motor or something? He said they’re not and it’s not possible to drop them down into the motor but you just have to make sure you have the same amount or else the pump may not work. so my plan is to take pump off soon, drop it off at the rebuild shop have them just do the oring and see. My thought is that if the o ring doesn’t fix it that what I’m out $90 and my time taking pump off? Then I’ll just have to take it off and get it rebuilt fr the second time correct ? Also I’m going to google it but do you have any pics of what these shims look like just to make sure I get them all etc?
North Idaho Wolfman
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It's not the delivery valve holder O-ring that is leaking, as that would be leaking above the hold down plate.
It's leaking on the 2 O-rings that are on the outside of the flange sleeves.
If you remove the Flange sleeves and do not keep them in the exact alignment that they are now (they rotate) , it will require a complete rebuild because it will change the timing curve when you remove them.
These O-rings
thank you that was the answer I was looking for. Up to this point nobody could tell me why to send it out, only answer I got is “it’s hard” pretty much. I just got the tractor, the leak isn’t as bad as I thought it was most of what I was seeing was from a hydraulic line that blew right before the old owner traded it in. I ran it for about 30 mins today moving trailers around the yard etc and it only dripped 8-10 drops then a decent little puddle afterward on the floor of the garage. The tractor has 1090 hours on it other than the pump it seems to have been well taken care. Other than the obvious oil change etc are there any services I need to do/ get done like valve adjustment or anything? Maybe a transmission oil change? I’m going to use it for the few jobs I have that need to get done immediately and see if it has any other quarks then was going to take pump off send it off and try to fix anything else that needs fixing. The dealer only had the tractor about a day and I bought it due to it being perfect for my needs and not $30k. Also how do I tell if I have the 1” pins on the bucket?
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Hydraulic oil and filters, engine oil and filters, air cleaner, check coolant, grease all zerks, check/ change front axle fluid (hydraulic oil), fuel filter.
You would measure the pins.... Obvious right.
Yessir, I just didn’t know if there was a dead giveaway in design difference. I guess on this model they had smaller ones on the earlier years then updated to a 1” and can only put the quick attach coupler on it if I have 1” pins. Thanks for all the help and sorry for the dumb questions.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Not dumb questions at all.
Yea there is no "looks like" on that it's just a pure measurement thing.
So I got it all torn down tonight, didn’t cuss once, skinned one knuckle on the fan clutch undoing an injector line, took tons of pics of where everything goes, have to replace the fuel return line to the pump it was old an brittle and broke. Was fairly simple had to remove hood larch thingy and air filter to gain access to injectors etc, took lines off took the 6 bolts that hold it on and it said I’d have to slide the thing to pull it out it slid right out without messing with it.all the shims have appeared to stay on the tractor side so was just going to leave them there and reinstall pump. Just looking into the future, where does the pin on the side of the pump slide into place etc. I have pics of where it came out for you to circle etc.
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Also I didn’t really notice until I was cleaning the engine off before I removed the pump but up top where the injectors are was wet with fuel. It really sucks because I’m already here if I have an injector leaking I’d like to fix it as well but I wouldn’t even know which one is leaking rn.
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Since you are having the pump rebuilt I would suggest you send all the injectors out also. But if you want to not do all four, then just wait until you have it all back together to figure out where the leak is coming from.
I guess you might need to remove the manifold to get to them? If so, you can put the manifold on with a couple of bolts and see which injectors you can get to and which ones you can’t get to. Then send out only the ones that are difficult to remove when the engine is all together.
It looks like with the correct size deep socket there are none that would be too difficult to remove. I think you might need to remove the top nut and then the bypass hose connector to get to the injector bottom hex.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yea I'm of the same camp that if you think you have an issue just get the injectors rebuilt at the same time.
It will run better!
It will run better!
I can easily get to all the injectors and the lines etc so once it’s all back together it wouldn’t be too hard to do. I’m just weary of tightening and then loosing then tightening the lines on the injection pump.the screw driver trick seemed to work pretty good so maybe I’ll just do it on down the rd. If I have a leak up there it’s pretty small and isn’t an issue yet. The tractor runs amazing to the point to where I don’t think it could run any better. The pump shop
Just called and said everything inside my pump looked great and it was just the orings. So it’s not like I’m doing all this to make it run better I just did it so it stops leaking diesel everywhere lol. Some ppl can deal with it I can’t, I hate having my shop floor covered in it and hate having it drip everywhere while operating it. So I’m just going to put her back together and run it. I haven’t even used it on a real job yet so just would like to get the pump fixed for now. It doesn’t haze or anything… it blows black smoke on start up and when u rev it up but thats normal. Doesn’t seem to have much of any blow by coming out of the tube. I think we’re all good other than the oil I drained out was 5 years old but only had like 50 hrs on it… it was pretty much straight sludge.
Just called and said everything inside my pump looked great and it was just the orings. So it’s not like I’m doing all this to make it run better I just did it so it stops leaking diesel everywhere lol. Some ppl can deal with it I can’t, I hate having my shop floor covered in it and hate having it drip everywhere while operating it. So I’m just going to put her back together and run it. I haven’t even used it on a real job yet so just would like to get the pump fixed for now. It doesn’t haze or anything… it blows black smoke on start up and when u rev it up but thats normal. Doesn’t seem to have much of any blow by coming out of the tube. I think we’re all good other than the oil I drained out was 5 years old but only had like 50 hrs on it… it was pretty much straight sludge.
took pump off to get rebuilt now it will not go back in. No matter what I do. Tried taking fuel shutoff switch out but absolutely no way get the one bolt out. Unplugged it and still is sticking out and won’t stay in. I can line everything up and drop it 3/4 of the way in then the pump gets stuck and will not seat on the side near the valve covers. Can I just jump power from a 12v source to the shut off switch to make it go in so I can install the pump and if so is red positive and is white negative?
North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
WOOH no turning on or jumping or powering anything!
Just take the 2 bolts out of the stop solenoid and remove it.
Have you aligned the fuel injection pump rack pin in the slot on the governor?
Didn't need to start a new thread on this!
Moved to other thread.
Just take the 2 bolts out of the stop solenoid and remove it.
Have you aligned the fuel injection pump rack pin in the slot on the governor?
Didn't need to start a new thread on this!
Moved to other thread.
Sorry I didn’t know if it’d be same or not and yessir I found the thing that moves it and had it lined up perfectly the problem is once it slides down far enough the plunger for the fuel shut off switch hits the slider and makes it unaligned before you can actually set it fully down. Taking it out was my first thought but not one socket, wrench, etc will fit the bolt between the motor and the fuel shut off switch. So I’m thinking there has to be a way to get the plunger to retract without taking it out. It’s also siliconed in there. Added a picture for reference. But there’s only two wires running to the switch so I was just going to try to wire it to a positive and negative and see if it opened but really don’t wanna break it because I can’t get it off lol…
