Is this going to get me hurt or damage my tractor?

[Teikas Dad]

I've got the itch to buy a rotary cutter for my Kubota B3200 (with FEL). We don't have acres of pastureland or orchards, just a couple acres that includes a field that we only mow once every month or so.

Before I go out and spend my money I thought I'd check with you guys to see if I'm about to do something stupid. I've been looking at 60 inch cutters. The field area is not a problem, it's relatively flat and the largest rock is about the size of a marble. What I've been wanting the rotary cutter for in addition to the field (which overpowers the JD lawnmower) is the fringe areas. There's a hill on one side of the field with trees and small scrub brush less than an inch in diameter. What I had planned on doing was backing the tractor and mower up the hill into the brush, the hill is too steep to go across the face of the hill. My wife does it to a certain extent with the lawnmower, but it's go a much lower center of gravity.

Here's an overview:

Here's what the edges look like that I want to use the rotary mower for. In the past I used to use a weedwacker, but I'm getting too old for that crap!

My questions to you guys are these:

Am I looking to get my self hurt or damage my tractor if I use the rotary mower on this stuff by backing into it?

Am I expecting too much out of the rotary cutter to keep all the Russian Olive and other scrub brush down?

If this is not a stupid idea and the 60" rotary cutter will do the job, my next question is with regards to which one to get.

I looked at the TSC model...looks like it was built in China. I researched all I could here on the forum and if I do get one I've got it narrowed down to a Woods BB60X or a Bush Hog SQ160.

My local Woods dealer gave me a price of $1800 for the BB60X with a shear pin. The dealer that carries Bush Hog gave me a price of $1895 for the SQ160 with a slip clutch. The Woods dealer is a couple miles from my place, the Bush Hog dealer is about 45 minutes away. Both are tractor/farm equipment dealers.

The Woods dealer said if I'm not going to be encountering rocks and logs then I didn't need the slip clutch. The Bush Hog dealer says the opposite...don't buy one without a slip clutch. The BH dealer did tell me that he could do a little better on the price is I'm paying cash/check and not using a credit card.

For something that I'm only going to be using 6 or 7 times a year, do I need the slip clutch or is a shear pin model easier to deal with? A friend of mine has a Bush Hog with a slip clutch and he said you have to mess with it a bit to get it work correctly. I like it simple.

Both cutters are within a few pounds of each other. The BH SQ160 has a larger (4"X1/2") blade, but the mounting system and tail wheel frame on the Woods looks to be a lot beefier. The SQ160 is 11 ga top and sides, the BB60X is 12 ga on top and 11 ga on the sides.

Anyway, I would appreciate your thoughts, concerns, warnings, suggestions and input regarding what I'm trying to do, particularly the good, the bad and the ugly comparing the BB60X to the SQ160. Or, am I wasting my money?

Thanks!

 

[WFM]

I have a 60" Land Pride rotary cutter(bush hog) cuts up to 2" I think, but looking at what you have there , I'm not a cutting/mowing expert (but there are many here) I think more of a mower type cutter would work better maybe. You could cut the brush at the edges and mow the grass with the mower. I'd have to look to see what its called , but its not a bush hog type cutter.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Most general purpose/duty bush hog will cut anywhere from 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter, so you should be fine to mow down that stuff in the photos. At first go slow take your time and get a feel for things and then base your operation from there.

Either way a slip clutch or a shear pin will work, you want some kinda protection back there so you don't do damage to the tractor. Get a hog with a stump jumper to save those blades from damage. I believe most hogs today come with a jumper standard.

And you will be happy with a Woods, Bush Hog, TSC or even King Kutter bush hogs. No sense in going all out buying top of the line for only a 6 time a year use. TSC and King Kutter make quality equipment at a value price.

 

[Stumpy]

Save yourself the trouble. Why drive up the hill when you can use your FEL to bring the hill to you!

I would think backing up and down that would get old fast but if you've only got to do it once a month it might be tolerable. As for whether a hog is appropriate I don't have much experience there but if you're going to let that go and do it monthly I think that's the right tool. Eric's got it dead on for what to look for.

 

[bandaidmd]

I agree with eric on the lighter duty models being perfectly fine for your use, and the use your asking about is exactly what rotery/bushhog cutters are designed for. If it was me and a slip clutch was within a $100 of a pin it would be a nobrainer~slip all the way! its one less thing you might have to get greasy fixing.

 

[hodge]

I think that what you are looking to do will work, but here are a few considerations, besides what has already been posted.
1) Do you have a friend with a bushog? Can you try it out and see if the result is satisfactory, before investing the money?
2) Have you considered used? Unless the bushog has really been abused, they are tough and simple machines. You should be able to find a used one that will work, for a good bit less. It would be a shame to invest top dollar for a piece of equipment that won't be your primary mower, or used frequently. And, you have a better chance of recouping your money if it doesn't work, if you buy used. New will depreciate.
3) I don't know how much area you actually plan to mow with it, but some thoughts were that for a fraction of the cost, you could buy a brush cutter (heavy duty weedeater), or something like a DR field and brush mower.
Then again, once you have a bushog, you may find many more uses for it.
4) You could rent one and thin all that stuff out, then treat it with a brush killer. Get rid of it, instead of continue to mow it.

Just some thoughts. And, welcome to OTT!

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks all. The "pasture" section only gets mowed about once a month. By that time it's too much for the JD lawn tractor.

I'm not really looking for a finish mower, just something to knock down and chop up everything.

I'm one of those people that hates to borrow tools or things like that from friends in case I break something. I've been squirreling away my mad money so I can pay cash for a new one. I looked for used but they are asking only a few hundred dollars less than what a new one costs and what they're selling looks to be ready for the scrap yard...not just surface rust, holes in the deck, bent edges, etc. I figure it this way, I'll spend the money once and cry once. But, I'll have a cutter that should outlast me. New ones come with a 5 or 6 year warranty on the gearbox so that's a plus.

Weedkiller is out, our well is just below that hill and my wife worries about it leaching into the well. I don't think it will...but I've been married for over 35 years so I know when to let something go!

 

[KenB2920]

Most general purpose/duty bush hog will cut anywhere from 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter, so you should be fine to mow down that stuff in the photos. At first go slow take your time and get a feel for things and then base your operation from there.

Either way a slip clutch or a shear pin will work, you want some kinda protection back there so you don't do damage to the tractor. Get a hog with a stump jumper to save those blades from damage. I believe most hogs today come with a jumper standard.

And you will be happy with a Woods, Bush Hog, TSC or even King Kutter bush hogs. No sense in going all out buying top of the line for only a 6 time a year use. TSC and King Kutter make quality equipment at a value price.

Ditto. Ditto ditto. Reread this quote. That my exact thoughts. For the small increase in price, I am a fan of slip clutch.

 

[Benhameen]

I have been doing this exact thing with a very old and very well used "brush hog", No problem!

Some folks don't like backing them in but I do it plenty without to many issues.

I used a chain saw on the stuff I thought was to big, like Eric said.

You might want to walk through and take a look around first. Anything big like a stump or log will wake you up fast.

Those Russian olives are a pain too, I dug one up with my FEL, the root was huge.

You should be fine, good luck and post your results.

 

[Russell King]

One thing to consider is the spacing between and around the trees and the area to turn. The 3Pt mounted mower will swing as you turn and make a fairly good arc. I have whacked some trees when I forget where the mower is.

There is also a style that is a pull (usually large ones) version that tows more like a trailer and does not make the swinging arc but limits how tight you can turn.

You may need to have some clear room at the top of the slope to make turns. IF you intend to only back up the slope you will be fine if the mower will get between the trees.

A flail mower could probably keep up with it after it was cut down (flail can't cut too large of saplings (1") but you could cut all of you grass with the flail mower.

You could also use a Swisher or Acre Ease pull behind rough cut (trail mower) mower but that is a whole different piece of equipment.

 

[Orange Tractors]

1. Get the slip clutch for an extra $95.00. The cost of shear pins or bolts and the down time will add up to that in nothing flat.

2. Do not get a pull type, they are okay for going forward in an open field, but a severe PITA in tight spots. I know, I have an olllddd 5 foot BMB pull type that I use behind my WD.

I hear you about borrowing equipment; I always feel that if it breaks when I am using it, I need to fix it before returning it. Frankly, I would rather spend my limited funds fixling my own stuff.

Robert

 

[bandaidmd]

My mail yesterday has a TSC circular , cutters are $50 off.

My Uncle had a equipment business that supplied tractors and mowers to mow powerline right of ways, there rules were if the tractor would push it over set the mower on top of it and grind it up. Needless to say they went thru a lot of rotary cutters. The grease seals usually only lasted a couple days after that the inspection covers were pulled off and the gearcases were packed with wheel bearing grease and a grease fitting was installed in the fill plug hole. He and my Dad fitted one of the tractors with 3 tires on each corner ,that beast mowed swampy areas that had always previously been hand cut.

 

[MagKarl]

I'd also vote to check the used market first. Check your local Craig's List. I bet you could find something for half the price of new and either come out way ahead or justify another tool.

I have a 5' Howse brush mower, it's older, just a basic driveline. I've cut all kinds of stuff and hit a lot as well but never broken a pin yet. I'm not sure a slip clutch is really necessary or not. I'm thinking as clean as your lot looks and you being very familiar with it, what are the chances you're going to hit a lot of solid obstacles with a mower? Slim I'd bet. It's not like you're mowing brush for a living on unfamiliar ground and hitting long forgotton junk buried in the briars.