L3301 Kubota with 4WD

[John Reichert]

I have a 2 year old L3301 tractor and recently used a grading blade to plow about 6" of snow with an 1" layer of ice on top for the first time. Prior to getting the Kubota, I used a Ford 1710 for over 30 years, which I used frequently to plow snow. I have some experience. The Ford 1710 was 2 wheel drive, with turf tires, rear chains, and 150 lbs. on the front weight bracket.

The recent ice/snow mix, was the first appreciable snow fall in almost 10 years. The rear tires on the L3301 were both filled with fluid from the dealer. So rear traction is decent to great with the AG tires. But the front tires seem to "float" a bit on the snow covered surface, resulting in some side movement even when making slight turns. This can get a bit dicey when traveling along the side of a hill. I was thinking, some front weight may correct some of the issue and may help when mowing wet grass in the spring.

I am looking for some comments and suggestions. Should I install suit case weights on a new front bracket or go with front wheel weights and if so, how much weight?

Thanks,
John

 

[jimh406]

My neighbor with an L uses chains on his front wheels.

 

[mcmxi]

My neighbor with an L uses chains on his front wheels.

Chains aren't going to help much if there isn't sufficient weight on the front axle. I ran front chains on the MX6000HST over one winter but I had the Land Pride STB1596 snow blade on the front of the loader so plenty of weight up front. I can't say that I really needed the front chains on the open station MX since I don't use chains on the MX6000HSTC and don't have any issues. I have more overall weight on this tractor though with the addition of three sets of rear wheel weights, along with Rim Guard in the rear tires (MX6000HST had Rim Guard too).

@John Reichert, I run suitcase weights on my M6060 when the loader is removed and they work really well pulling the big RC1237 folding cutter around my hilly property. They definitely help with the balance and ride of the tractor. I would estimate that you want somewhere around 30% to 40% of the weight of the loader in suitcase weights as a starting point.

 

[ayak]

I had siped (grooved) my R4 tires since I’m reluctant to go with chains. I do keep snow in the FEL itself when it starts to get a bit funky.
Just came back in from the same situation you had. Started as snow, then we had melting, then freezing rain, and then more snow. I just did my ice breaker routine with the piranha bar across the FEL and pushed it away, easily.

 

[jimh406]

Chains aren't going to help much if there isn't sufficient weight on the front axle.

How much weight do you need on the front to keep the front tracking? My neighbor only runs front chains on his L3400 with R1s. I have chains for my front and rear. I started with fronts and neighbor did because they are a lot easier to put on and probably around 1/4 the weight.

If I didn't have "enough" weight, my front chains wouldn't do anything, but I've added no additional weight to the front. The front end tracks better with chains with my R4s. The same is true for my neighbor with R1s. That's why we put them on.

That's two Ls that front chains that work on without additional weight. As always, YMMV.

 

[mcmxi]

I had siped (grooved) my R4 tires since I’m reluctant to go with chains. I do keep snow in the FEL itself when it starts to get a bit funky.
Just came back in from the same situation you had. Started as snow, then we had melting, then freezing rain, and then more snow. I just did my ice breaker routine with the piranha bar across the FEL and pushed it away, easily.

I went the siping route too thanks to @pokey1416 very kindly sending me his siping tool to use. I don't think I would have necessarily bought a tool to do this, but I feel like it makes a difference to traction.

I have steep driveways to deal with, both gravel and asphalt, with a couple of sections on the asphalt being the most challenging. I can blow snow uphill on those steep sections with no trouble at all and I think the siping is a part of that. I don't run chains any more.

 

[mcmxi]

How much weight do you need on the front to keep the front tracking? My neighbor only runs front chains on his L3400 with R1s. I have chains for my front and rear. I started with fronts and neighbor did because they are a lot easier to put on and probably around 1/4 the weight.

If I didn't have "enough" weight, my front chains wouldn't do anything, but I've added no additional weight to the front. The front end tracks better with chains with my R4s. The same is true for my neighbor with R1s. That's why we put them on.

That's two Ls that front chains that work on without additional weight. As always, YMMV.

The op didn't ask about chains but rather a way to increase the load on the front tires for both winter and summer. I have hundreds of yards of driveway to deal with and 9,000 sq.ft of asphalt with some of it steep. How is that I'm able to push and blow snow without any trouble at all and without chains? Weight primarily, and with some help from siping the front and rear tires.

I suggest that the op start out with front weights which he can benefit from when mowing, and see if the traction up front improves. Like I said, weight on the front axles affects front end traction. The main reason to add wheel weights whether steel or liquid is to improve traction.

When I had the BX25, I started out with chains front and rear but ended up with screw in studs instead which were way better. That little tractor didn't weight much so it needed all the help it could get.

 

[jimh406]

I have hundreds of yards of driveway to deal with and 9,000 sq.ft of asphalt with some of it steep

He didn‘t ask how much asphalt you had either. Fwiw, you pictures look flat in comparison to what most would consider steep.

 

[John Reichert]

I appreciate the comments and suggestions and can understand not all have the same experience or results from their own equipment.

I was out today and again had a few dicey experiences in which the front end began sliding down and sideways as I moved along the side of a hill. Without doing a lot more driving to reach my destination, transversing the hill side is more convenient. I will say, I was glad the ROPS was up and the seat belt on.

The situation did not improve by driving over snow tracks from the previous day. That did surprise me.

For my situation, I am thinking of adding between 100 - 150 lbs. of suitcase weights. I will need to also get a bracket.

Thank You,
John

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I appreciate the comments and suggestions and can understand not all have the same experience or results from their own equipment.

I was out today and again had a few dicey experiences in which the front end began sliding down and sideways as I moved along the side of a hill. Without doing a lot more driving to reach my destination, transversing the hill side is more convenient. I will say, I was glad the ROPS was up and the seat belt on.

The situation did not improve by driving over snow tracks from the previous day. That did surprise me.

For my situation, I am thinking of adding between 100 - 150 lbs. of suitcase weights. I will need to also get a bracket.

Thank You,
John

I got a couple of brackets cheap from my dealer. I assume they were takeoffs left over from loader installations. You might try that angle.

 

[John Reichert]

I got a couple of brackets cheap from my dealer. I assume they were takeoffs left over from loader installations. You might try that angle.

Thanks
John

 

[mcmxi]

He didn‘t ask how much asphalt you had either. Fwiw, you pictures look flat in comparison to what most would consider steep.

There's more than a 120ft elevation change from the road below me to the parking area in front of the house. The lower driveway is close to 200 yards long and the upper driveway is 175 yards long. The average grade based on the elevation change over the given distance is almost 11%. There are some sections that are less of an incline than others, so if the average is 11% there must be sections steeper than that. Yep, that's not steep at all.

 

[mcmxi]

I appreciate the comments and suggestions and can understand not all have the same experience or results from their own equipment.

I was out today and again had a few dicey experiences in which the front end began sliding down and sideways as I moved along the side of a hill. Without doing a lot more driving to reach my destination, transversing the hill side is more convenient. I will say, I was glad the ROPS was up and the seat belt on.

The situation did not improve by driving over snow tracks from the previous day. That did surprise me.

For my situation, I am thinking of adding between 100 - 150 lbs. of suitcase weights. I will need to also get a bracket.

Thank You,
John

As a starting point, Messick's has front weights for your tractor. Do you have the front bracket shown in the schematic? The factory weight option and bracket would be the easiest way to go but depending on your fabricating abilities you can wander off into the weeds as much as you like.

The local dealer had the front weight bracket for the M6060/M7060 tractors in one of their storage sheds that had been getting in the way for years, and I bought it for $150. The bracket sells for three times that much normally so it was a good deal. I bought a set of 10 weights from EA (102lb each rings a bell) that are clones of the Kubota weights so installation was almost a breeze.

Kubota L3301HST (4WD TRA W/HYD TRANS/FOLD ROPS) Parts Diagrams

Kubota Parts Catalog Lookup. Buy Kubota Parts Online & Save!

www.messicks.com

 

[John Reichert]

Thanks. I need to contact a dealer. I did some searching online but was unsuccessful at locating either the bracket or the weights. I assume, all Kubota dealer will sell the bracket and weights for the same price.

John

 

[mcmxi]

Thanks. I need to contact a dealer. I did some searching online but was unsuccessful at locating either the bracket or the weights. I assume, all Kubota dealer will sell the bracket and weights for the same price.

John

I doubt you'll see a big difference between Messick's and other dealers, but if you order through a local dealer they might be able to add the order to a much bigger shipment that they have coming in which can eliminate or reduce shipping charges.

Also, it might be worth contacting Courtney at Good Works Tractor Co. They sell some suitcase weights, and you could probably have a local welding shop make up a bracket that costs less than the Kubota one. I would have made up my own bracket for the M6060 if the local dealer didn't happen to have one laying around that they sold to me at cost.

Suitcase Weights for Tractor Counterweight

Buy John Deere Suitcase Weights for tractors from Good Works Tractors Online at Best Price! Get 41lb and 70lb suitcase weights for tractors to properly counterweight your tractor, front and rear. Order now!

www.goodworkstractors.com

 

[mcmxi]

You could buy the bumper from a Kubota dealer which is "only" $209.63 and then buy weights from another supplier. There are two weights available from Kubota for the L3901, i.e. 44lb and 55lb each. They are expensive at around $370 each.

Good Works Tractor Co. sells 41lb weights for $149 each and 70lb weights for $175 each (better deal) so it might be worth figuring out how to make the Kubota front bumper (weight hanger) work with other weights.

Kubota #32310-13810 BUMPER

BUMPER

www.messicks.com

Kubota #96315-11620 WEIGHT,FRONT 1*

WEIGHT,FRONT 1*

www.messicks.com

Kubota #96315-11614 WEIGHT, FRONT

WEIGHT, FRONT

www.messicks.com

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

You could buy the bumper from a Kubota dealer which is "only" $209.63 and then buy weights from another supplier. There are two weights available from Kubota for the L3901, i.e. 44lb and 55lb each. They are expensive at around $370 each.

Good Works Tractor Co. sells 41lb weights for $149 each and 70lb weights for $175 each (better deal) so it might be worth figuring out how to make the Kubota front bumper (weight hanger) work with other weights.

Kubota #32310-13810 BUMPER

BUMPER

www.messicks.com

Kubota #96315-11620 WEIGHT,FRONT 1*

WEIGHT,FRONT 1*

www.messicks.com

Kubota #96315-11614 WEIGHT, FRONT

WEIGHT, FRONT

www.messicks.com

Don't order weights though parts. The front weight bracket is MX8068, and the 55lb BL8069 front weights. These are sales dept accessories. Does not include freight, which can get expensive for weights. There is also some hardware needed so the weights do not bounce off the front bar. Thats a few dollars too. We have a call center full of people who can help with this stuff.

Kubota #MX8068 FRONT WEIGHT BRACKET

FRONT WEIGHT BRACKET

messicks.com

Kubota #BL8069 FRONT SUITCASE WEIGHT (55LBS)

FRONT SUITCASE WEIGHT (55LBS)

messicks.com

 

[mcmxi]

Don't order weights though parts. The front weight bracket is MX8068, and the 55lb BL8069 front weights. These are sales dept accessories. Does not include freight, which can get expensive for weights. There is also some hardware needed so the weights do not bounce off the front bar. Thats a few dollars too. We have a call center full of people who can help with this stuff.

Kubota #MX8068 FRONT WEIGHT BRACKET

FRONT WEIGHT BRACKET

messicks.com

Kubota #BL8069 FRONT SUITCASE WEIGHT (55LBS)

FRONT SUITCASE WEIGHT (55LBS)

messicks.com

Thanks very much for reminding us that accessories are much cheaper when ordered through the sales department at a dealer rather than the parts department. I had completely forgotten about that distinction.

I ran into this late last year when I looked at the cost to add a rear wiper and rear defrost glass to the M6060. When I looked at the parts online (Messick's) it was many thousands of dollars, but when I called the manager of the local dealer it was around $1k through sales for the rear glass, both side glass windows, the rear wiper and an upgraded alternator.

 

[jyoutz]

Why not just keep your loader on and fill the bucket with material for weight?

 

[John Reichert]

Why not just keep your loader on and fill the bucket with material for weight?

The front weight bracket and the weights were ordered at a local dealer as part of a massive order to Kubota which will save individual shipping costs. I saw no significant difference between the dealers I checked locally and online. Saving the cost of shipping sealed the deal.

FYI: I don't have a front loader.

John