B2782B Snow Blower shaft and sprocket.

[sbtills]

I saw a few posts somewhat related to this issue from two years ago, but they did not have enough information for my issue. Yesterday I was blowing 6" of fairly heavy snow and the blower was working perfectly. I stopped for 15 minutes (I may not have cleared all of the snow from the auger) and when I started a squealing sound appeared from the blower. I disengaged and tried again a couple times with no change. I push ahead for a short distance and the blower output went down fairly rapidly to nothing. I cleared the unit and ran the blower empty and it was still spinning but the noise continued. I took off the blower and checked the input shaft which was fine, but when I removed the cover over the large sprocket, the sprocket was not spinning with the shaft anymore. Here is where I am stuck. When I looked at the parts diagram, the sprocket configuration was different. In fact, I saw three different possible configurations to hold on the sprocket. Mine does not have set screws in the sprocket, as it has a 4-threaded-hole plate with two of the opposite holes occupied by bolts with a shaft key in one of the grooves on the shaft. I don't know the best way to get the sprocket off without causing damage. I am thinking that the other two holes may be to thread bolts into to pull off that cover. I am not a mechanic and I am not sure how to get the key off the shaft, or if I should turn the existing bolts one way or another first. Sorry, this got pretty wordy. I appreciate any advice on my situation... there is more snow on the way. Thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pictures of what your dealing with would be much easier to understand.

Is this what your talking about?

 

[Dustball]

Here is where I am stuck. When I looked at the parts diagram, the sprocket configuration was different. In fact, I saw three different possible configurations to hold on the sprocket. Mine does not have set screws in the sprocket, as it has a 4-threaded-hole plate with two of the opposite holes occupied by bolts with a shaft key in one of the grooves on the shaft.

Was it four holes or three?

 

[DustyRusty]

Whenever you hear squealing, it is best to stop and determine the problem before you cause more damage. You might also need a new chain.

 

[sbtills]

Yes it is.

Was it four holes or three?

View attachment 146142
Thanks There are 4 holes with 2 bolts across from each other.

 

[sbtills]

Yes it is.

Yes it is.

I can't find a parts diagram that reflects the configuration of the hub that I have. The technique that you provided for tightening the hub over the sprocket (thank you) makes sense with three triangular oriented bolts, but I don't know if that is appropriate for 2 bolts.

 

[Russell King]

Look up taper lock sprockets. I believe you need to remove the two bolts and use them as jack screws in the other two holes. You will be pushing a tapered part off of a tapered part.

I think the two open holes will be threaded holes and the two with bolts will be clearance holes, but I might have that backwards. It has been some time since I used one of those things.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I can't find a parts diagram that reflects the configuration of the hub that I have. The technique that you provided for tightening the hub over the sprocket (thank you) makes sense with three triangular oriented bolts, but I don't know if that is appropriate for 2 bolts.

All the QD bushings I've dealt with had 3+3 holes and the split went full length, including the flange. Maybe this one is a modified form.

 

[Dustball]

All the QD bushings I've dealt with had 3+3 holes and the split went full length, including the flange. Maybe this one is a modified form.

It's an RBL split taper bushing. The split is on the back side.

 

[sbtills]

Look up taper lock sprockets. I believe you need to remove the two bolts and use them as jack screws in the other two holes. You will be pushing a tapered part off of a tapered part.

I think the two open holes will be threaded holes and the two with bolts will be clearance holes, but I might have that backwards. It has been some time since I used one of those things.

I think you are correct about that. I have deduced that I have an old configuration with the two bolts that has been replaced with the new 3 bolt hub. I just called Messick's and they have a kit that replaces the sprocket, provides a 3 bolt hub, and 3 bolts. I appreciate the tip about how to get the old hub off. I just have to learn how to remove the key way. Thanks!

 

[sbtills]

Look up taper lock sprockets. I believe you need to remove the two bolts and use them as jack screws in the other two holes. You will be pushing a tapered part off of a tapered part.

I think the two open holes will be threaded holes and the two with bolts will be clearance holes, but I might have that backwards. It has been some time since I used one of those things.

This reply was meant for you....

I think you are correct about that. I have deduced that I have an old configuration with the two bolts that has been replaced with the new 3 bolt hub. I just called Messick's and they have a kit that replaces the sprocket, provides a 3 bolt hub, and 3 bolts. I appreciate the tip about how to get the old hub off. I just have to learn how to remove the key way. Thanks!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You don't need to replace it, there is nothing wrong with it.
You just need to pull it and replace the sheared keyway.

Looking at your picture it looks like it had the wrong keyway to begin with.
It's not tall enough to engagee the slot in the hub.

Before you attempt to remove the hub align the hub slot with the keyway.

 

[Dustball]

You don't need to replace it, there is nothing wrong with it.
You just need to pull it and replace the sheared keyway.

Looking at your picture it looks like it had the wrong keyway to begin with.
It's not tall enough to engagee the slot in the hub.

Before you attempt to remove the hub align the hub slot with the keyway.

Agreed.

Also most likely the metal is a bit scored so it's going to be a bit of effort to get it off. Be prepared with a small 3-jaw puller to get the hub off all the way.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

we call them 'split tapered bushings' , north of the 49th.....

https://www.princessauto.com/en/split-tapered-bushings/product/PA1000001199

in post #5 picture , the key is NOT in the keyway and it could be 'fun' to disassemble

I'd get a grinder and remove the key' down to the shaft, yes, be careful..one of those little bit at a time jobs.
then as other have said, remove bolts, put in other holes and evenly turn them to relive the tension between sprocket and bushing.
this design is PRECISE, very,very well made so it doesn't take much to BIND them up.

 

[Russell King]

@sbtills
can you take a picture of the other (lower) half of your sprocket? Or rotate it 180 degrees and take a similar photo as above?

I am suspicious if the sprocket even has a key way in it. The sprocket may have slipped on the shaft and that made the squealing noise?

 

[sbtills]

@sbtills
can you take a picture of the other (lower) half of your sprocket? Or rotate it 180 degrees and take a similar photo as above?

I am suspicious if the sprocket even has a key way in it. The sprocket may have slipped on the shaft and that made the squealing noise?

Here are two current photo 180 degrees apart. As you can see, I haven’t been successful getting that key out. The two screws in the image are new longer screws that I am hoping will make pulling the hub easier….. whenever I get that key out.

You don't need to replace it, there is nothing wrong with it.
You just need to pull it and replace the sheared keyway.

Looking at your picture it looks like it had the wrong keyway to begin with.
It's not tall enough to engagee the slot in the hub.

Before you attempt to remove the hub align the hub slot with the keyway.

You could be correct. I haven’t heard the new, probably better quality, parts coming so I replace what I have regardless.

The is not wanting to come out. It moves in the key way, but not upward where I grab it.

I appreciate everyone’s input.

 

[sbtills]

Here are two current photo 180 degrees apart. As you can see, I haven’t been successful getting that key out. The two screws in the image are new longer screws that I am hoping will make pulling the hub easier….. whenever I get that key out.

You could be correct. I haven’t heard the new, probably better quality, parts coming so I replace what I have regardless.

The is not wanting to come out. It moves in the key way, but not upward where I grab it.

I appreciate everyone’s input.

Auto correct… “I have the new….”

 

[Russell King]

Here are two current photo 180 degrees apart. As you can see, I haven’t been successful getting that key out. The two screws in the image are new longer screws that I am hoping will make pulling the hub easier….. whenever I get that key out.

You could be correct. I haven’t heard the new, probably better quality, parts coming so I replace what I have regardless.

The is not wanting to come out. It moves in the key way, but not upward where I grab it.

I appreciate everyone’s input.

I don’t see any key way in the hub. The key in the shaft looks like it is there just to fill the shaft key way.

Do you have the hub loose from the sprocket? Here is a link to an instruction manual for a similar product. I would not worry about getting the key out now and see if the hub will just slide off.

Browning Mounting Instructions for Split Taper

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Is there some room for the sprocket to move back towards the snow blower?

 

[Dustball]

Here are two current photo 180 degrees apart. As you can see, I haven’t been successful getting that key out. The two screws in the image are new longer screws that I am hoping will make pulling the hub easier….. whenever I get that key out.

You could be correct. I haven’t heard the new, probably better quality, parts coming so I replace what I have regardless.

The is not wanting to come out. It moves in the key way, but not upward where I grab it.

I appreciate everyone’s input.

Use an angle grinder to grind the existing key flush with the shaft before you use the screws to push the hub off. Lubricate the threads of the screws so they don't seize on you.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Run the bolts in tight then smack the sprocket a couple times and it should break the bond with the hub.