eBay Skid Steer Plates

Old Machinist

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Just received my blank skid steer plate I ordered off eBay. It came 3 days after I ordered it. It is a loose fit and will require some shimming at the bottom. It's about 7/8 inch looser than my factory bucket. I knew what to expect at the time of order because they showed the top to bottom bend measurement at 16.81 inches. My bucket measures right at 16 inches. Most ALL of the plates advertised showed the 16.81 measurement. I didn't jerk on it but pretty sure I could lift it off at the top hooks if I tried hard enough

So much for all of these being a standard skid steer match.

funsport-skid-steer-plate.jpg


IMG_20250110_155216507_HDR.jpg


Just giving folks a heads up what to expect when ordering these for fabbing your own loader attachments. I saw another ad showing a measurement of 18-1/8 inches which would leave a 2 inch plus gap at the bottom. No way the pins would engage on that one.

18-in-plate.jpg
 
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GreensvilleJay

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You should be able to add a 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 44" bar to the inside edge of the top to get real close to 16".
try a wooden 1x2 for a test fit.
too bad you're south of the 49th , as I have lots of 3/4 c 1 1/2 bar stock here 'looking for a good home'.

Always wondered WHY the 4 bottom slots ?
 
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Old Machinist

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The standard is 15-7/8 inch so it's a full inch off standard.
skid-steer-standard.jpg


I have plenty of steel to make the shim from but I'm thinking I will cut up some old mower blades and stack about 3/4 inch worth. A little slop won't be all bad.
 

GreensvilleJay

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dang I was hoping to get rid of at least 1/3rd of ONE of the 50 bars I have here.......
My BX23S bucket is 16", maybe a bit more.
:rolleyes: Maybe the ePay unit was cut using Metric tape measure.......
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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The issue is that everyone seams to be measuring them at different locations????
 
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Runs With Scissors

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Thanks for posting that info.

Nice "base" for a project, since most of the "heavy lifting" has been done.

Looks like a pretty easy fix to tighten her up.

Do you mind sharing the price just for reference?
 

Sidekick

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I recently bought a 3/8 thick one from Vevor for a project and it was about $130 delivered with tax. Cost less then buying the steel to make one. Looks nice but haven't tried the fit yet. Poor FedEx guy worked hard to get that out of the truck. Can't imagine how much it cost them to ship it. Watch for sales because I have seen them as low as $109 lately and the thinner ones under $100. I say better to have it too big then small with something like this.
 

Old Machinist

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I was perusing 3/8" and 5/16" plates on eBay. A seller by the name funsport-usa offered some slight discounts on both after I viewed them. I decided on the 5/16" and the cost after FL tax was added came to $115.80. I was really happy with the shipping time. Came Fedex in 3 days.

The steel is actually .297" so not true 5/16" but it should be plenty strong and I think it's thicker than my stock light duty bucket.

I am actually thinking about buying two more to cut up for the steel to make a stump bucket. If I do that the whole project will be a little over half the cost of a Titan bucket not counting my time and welding materials. I am thinking of using the make offer option to see if I can get two more plates for less.
 
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Sidekick

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I was perusing 3/8" and 5/16" plates on eBay. A seller by the name funsport-usa offered some slight discounts on both after I viewed them. I decided on the 5/16" and the cost after FL tax was added came to $115.80. I was really happy with the shipping time. Came Fedex in 3 days.

The steel is actually .297" so not true 5/16" but it should be plenty strong and I think it's thicker than my stock light duty bucket.

I am actually thinking about buying two more to cut up for the steel to make a stump bucket. If I do that the whole project will be a little over half the cost of a Titan bucket not counting my time and welding materials. I am thinking of using the make offer option to see if I can get two more plates for less.
That's exactly what I bought mine to build. I have some 5/16 plate to use. Looking for 3 teeth.
 
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Old Machinist

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This is incredibly frustrating. I have done exhaustive research and shopping to try and find a plate made to the SAE J2513 standard and it doesn't look like ANY are available. The real mystery is why so many have favorable reviews when all the plates available are advertised to be an inch off in the top to bend measurement.

I was thinking if I could just find one that fits right I would buy that and cut the one I have up for steel.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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The easiest fix for these plates is to cut the top lip off and shorten the plate and put the lip back on.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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I was thinking ,just add '3/4 x 1 1/2 x 44.25" filler bar', 1 cut, and 2-3 tack welds, done in 15 minutes


NIW takes longer, might warp the steel, 2 cuts plus trimming, 2-3 cutoff blades,grind finishing, painting and at least 3 people will show up asking 'WTF did YOU screw up THIS time......?':)

either way works, whatever works for YOU is what counts....
 

drygulch

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I was thinking ,just add '3/4 x 1 1/2 x 44.25" filler bar', 1 cut, and 2-3 tack welds, done in 15 minutes
I tend to agree with this approach. There is no force actively pulling the new "hanger lip" welds apart. The force will actually be pushing the "shim" into the hanger lip. Minor stress on those welds. If anything it bolsters the hanger. .Just MHO. Could change with new information.

Hate buying steel these days though. I do like the discussion before my own project becomes reality. Also glad these plates come with too much material rather than too little...

Greg
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I was thinking ,just add '3/4 x 1 1/2 x 44.25" filler bar', 1 cut, and 2-3 tack welds, done in 15 minutes


NIW takes longer, might warp the steel, 2 cuts plus trimming, 2-3 cutoff blades,grind finishing, painting and at least 3 people will show up asking 'WTF did YOU screw up THIS time......?':)

either way works, whatever works for YOU is what counts....
I really think your over complicating this.
It's a walk in the park with a plasma torch, mig welder, and half a brain. 🤫
 

mikester

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The easiest fix for these plates is to cut the top lip off and shorten the plate and put the lip back on.
I wouldn't cut the top off and re-weld since it's already fabricated to the correct angle. Add a shim plate under the lip and weld it on. That will be stronger.

I find there's a lot of variability on the machine end too
 
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Yooper

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One thing I saw right away was the top needs a gusset plate in the middle. Can picture that getting a bow to it after some time. That is the part of the attachment with the most stress on it.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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I really think your over complicating this.
It's a walk in the park with a plasma torch, mig welder, and half a brain. 🤫
yeah but I'd have to borrow plasma torch from neighbor(Mother Nature droped an ice rink between us, and at 70+,I'm bad carrying stuff up 7 icy steps, gave away the mig (needed gas..) and um, ah, gee, ahh, what was the 3rd thing again ???:oops:
what I do have is a few hundred feet of 3/4 x 1 1/2 bar stock here,looking for a good home,before wife decides to use them as tomatoe stakes this Summer.
 

Old Machinist

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I have a plasma torch but cutting the top off isn't in any part of my plan. This should be a simple shim job. I haven't taken much time to look at and evaluate it yet but I might get some time today.

@Yooper I do like your suggestion to gusset the top lip.

I am actually going to measure and consider the possibility of making this also fit the JDQA if I can do that and retain the SSQA fit. At a glance it looks like the JDQA hooks would ride right in the middle of the SSQA connectors. Will know better about that when I get my John Deere back from my Son in Law.
 
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mcmxi

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I think that this is another example of cost being the primary concern rather than fit and function. The local Kubota dealer has a stack of SSQA plates in the showroom made by Kubota/Land Pride. How much do you want to bet that if I took the time to measure the plates they'd be right on?

Often, what starts out cheaper ends up being way more hassle and more expensive than the "buy once, cry once" approach.