Anti Scalp Wheel Post Stuck on MMM for BX2360

mink

New member
Apr 20, 2016
3
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3
HL, MN USA
Though the posts appear to be aluminum, three of mine are stuck so that I can neither remove them or adjust the height on the MMM. I'm concerned about trying to 'pound them out' that the top of the aluminum post might deform.

Suggestions? Is it as simple as PB Blaster?
 

je1279

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Equipment
LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Dec 6, 2020
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Upstate NY
Make sure the pins are removed, then elevate the deck off the ground. Next, put a block of wood over the top of the post and go to town with your favorite hammer. Using something like PB Blaster first isn't a bad idea either. Im guessing after two to three good whacks, they will come off fairly easily. Lastly, I would clean up both the posts and the housings and add some grease before reinstalling.
 
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mink

New member
Apr 20, 2016
3
1
3
HL, MN USA
Make sure the pins are removed then put a block of wood over the top of them and go to town with your favorite hammer. Something like PB Blaster first isn't a bad idea either. Im guessing after a few good whacks, they will come out fairly easily. Then, I would clean up both them and the housings and add some grease before reinstalling.
Thanks for the suggestion... I'll try later in the week and report back!
 
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RCW

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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
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Chenango County, NY
My mower for my BX2360 is an RCK54-23BX.

The pins for the gauge wheels are definitely steel. Just stuck a magnet to one to make sure. I do have one that is a little wonky like it's been bent a little. Instead of a new pin assembly, I'll probably hit it with the bench grinder, or a coarse flap wheel on an angle grinder to loosen things up.

I'm with @je1279 100%.

Yours could be corroded in if not removed in some time.

Start with some PB Blaster or favorite first.

Do everything else he said! They'll come out. (y)

IMG_7448.jpeg
 
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DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
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Make sure that you have the bracket properly supported before you start banging on the wheel post. I would use a product called "Deep Creep" as a penetrating oil. If you have an acetylene/oxygen torch, get the post hot before you start, and let it cool. The expansion of the steel with heat should help to break any rust or corrosion bond. If you can get a drift pin into one of the holes, you might be able to turn it. I am not a fan of using brute force with a hammer but using a press to put persuasion on the part. Hammering on the top of the post can mushroom the top and then your problems get worse. You can also heat the bracket itself where the pin resides, but it will destroy the paint. Another thing that might help is to drill and tap the side of the bracket and install a grease fitting.