BL2660 3pt Snowblower Parts Needed

[Snoho3]

Greetings - the grooved pin on my BL2660 blower just sheared and I know from previous experience that I will need a replacement auger drive shaft as well as a new pin

Shaft - 70050-94305
Pin - 70050-94366

Messicks list both as “Discontinued”. Are there any other sources for discontinued parts out there? I’m also curious if anyone else running the same equipment has had this issue. Second time for me - first time i couldn’t figure out how to replace the pin without literally cutting through the drive shaft. TIA and HNY!

Snoho3

 

[GreensvilleJay]

maybe 'coleman' or 'weingartz' ?? SP !!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Greetings - the grooved pin on my BL2660 blower just sheared and I know from previous experience that I will need a replacement auger drive shaft as well as a new pin

Shaft - 70050-94305
Pin - 70050-94366

Messicks list both as “Discontinued”. Are there any other sources for discontinued parts out there? I’m also curious if anyone else running the same equipment has had this issue. Second time for me - first time i couldn’t figure out how to replace the pin without literally cutting through the drive shaft. TIA and HNY!

Snoho3

Looking at it, I would say your shear pin (green) is too hard if it's shearing the roll pin on the sprocket (yellow).
That's the job of the shear pin to save the shaft, and it's not doing it's job.

Why do you need a new auger drive shaft if the roll pin just sheared?
Line up the roll pin hole and the shaft roll pin piece and use a drift punch to drive out the sheared piece.

Could also be slop in the hole on the sprocket hub causing the issue.

If the hole in the sprocket hub is too worn and causing it to shear.
Either replace the sprocket or drill out the holes to accommodate a larger roll pin.

Go to Harbor Freight or Ebay and get a roll Pin assortment for the cost of one dealer supplied roll pin.

 

[Snoho3]

Looking at it, I would say your shear pin (green) is too hard if it's shearing the roll pin on the sprocket (yellow).
That's the job of the shear pin to save the shaft, and it's not doing it's job.

Why do you need a new auger drive shaft if the roll pin just sheared?
Line up the roll pin hole and the shaft roll pin piece and use a drift punch to drive out the sheared piece.

Could also be slop in the hole on the sprocket hub causing the issue.

If the hole in the sprocket hub is too worn and causing it to shear.
Either replace the sprocket or drill out the holes to accommodate a larger roll pin.

Go to Harbor Freight or Ebay and get a roll Pin assortment for the cost of one dealer supplied roll pin.

View attachment 145423

Thanks very much for your detailed reply. My blower was modified by the original owner (steel reinforcement in some areas) such that I can’t access to just the pin. Also, when this happened before I was unable to properly line up the sheared pin in any case. Was really hoping there could be some source for parts that I was unaware of - would hate to have to trash the blower because a pin sheared! And yes - the intended shear pin is too hard. Bad mistake! Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

on a similar designed blower, I replaced your #21, the shaft, with some 'shafting' as mine had worn out after 22-23 hard seasons of use(well abuse...) Also replaced the sprocket as well as bearings. Got another 5-6 seasons out of it ,then sold it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks very much for your detailed reply. My blower was modified by the original owner (steel reinforcement in some areas) such that I can’t access to just the pin. Also, when this happened before I was unable to properly line up the sheared pin in any case. Was really hoping there could be some source for parts that I was unaware of - would hate to have to trash the blower because a pin sheared! And yes - the intended shear pin is too hard. Bad mistake! Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

If you can pull the parts to replace them. then you should be able to pull the parts to get it on a bench right?

Or is the only way to get the parts out is to cut them out?
But if that's the case how do you get them back in?

There has to be a better way.

Pictures?

 

[Snoho3]

If you can pull the parts to replace them. then you should be able to pull the parts to get it on a bench right?

Or is the only way to get the parts out is to cut them out?
But if that's the case how do you get them back in?

There has to be a better way.

Pictures?

That's actually the whole problem - I can't pull the parts without cutting through the solid drive shaft. which is why I am looking for a replacement part. Which is no longer available apparently. And I can't figure out how to line up the hole on the drive shaft with the hole on the sprocket to just pound out the roll pin (while the assembly is still in place). The the pin is sheared so the drive shaft has rotated and the hole is hidden by the sprocket... confusing I know and I'm no longer near the tractor to go take pics... I think I need to attack this from the other end... (if I can't get replacement parts) - I need to figure out how to rewove the spline and gear box, which should then release the auger drive shaft in one piece. Anyway - appreciate yours and others input. Nice forum you have here...!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, option #1
you need 2 pairs of good vice grips.

lock one on the shaft, use the other to rotate the sprocket until it's lined up with the other end's sprocket.
The picture in post #3 almost shows what I mean. Odds are that both holes for the roll pins in the shaft are drilled the same( mine was....)
Yes, it's a bit of a 'game', might take a few tries, but can be done. It's easier if the broken part of the roll pin has come out of the #18 sprocket. Then you CAN see the 'stub in the shaft'.
Use a cut down bolt or SH cap screw, just smaller OD than the rollpin. Hold with pliers and give a solid, good whack with hammer.It WILL move.

The other option, if sprocket #18 is to be replaced, simply use 4.5" thin cutoff wheel in grinder and 'surgically' remove the sprocket in 3--4 pieces.

Either way, less than an hour, providing it's on the bench, secured and GOOD lighting.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have the same style snow blower as you.
If it has a plate over the sprocket I would be cutting a hole in it to get access (mine has a cover plate right there).
Then using a pipe wrench ( and a block of wood to stop the auger) you could turn the shaft and get it to align to get the pin out.

 

[Snoho3]

This is all really good stuff and I thank you. I'm not getting back to the blower for a couple of weeks (It is at my cabin in the mountains) but I'll report back what happens. You've given me several options to try. (side note - before I left I had to clear the driveway (about 1/4 mile) with the bucket. Not fun.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

A cordless grinder (or corded if you have power) and good cut off wheels have saved me a ton of work.