North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Seat Safety Switch Bypass
- Thread starter CommanderDave
- Start date
There are numerous reasons for wanting a bypass switch on tractors. I remember a neighbor with a spanking brand new McCormic tractor getting ready to roll up about 200 bales before the rain came and the tractor wouldn't start. Turns out it was his seat switch, but because it being a Sunday, and for lack of a bypass switch, he essentially lost a massive amount of hay. In my case, that bypass switch will negate every safety switch on my tractor, but it gets used only when those pesky safety switches don't work and things need to get done, like right now. Normally, it is very rarely turned on.
Attachments
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
That's all possible, right now it's 16F in Wisconsin and I just spent the weekend putting snow chains on the tractor, putting away the summer implements, and putting the blower, plow, and FEL up front, so it might take a while before I make a harness and install it, we'll see. Here's a link to the dash switch though.
Mine is two wires, Normally Open (no connection). When the seat has pressure the switch closes. There's no way to adjust sensitivity (yours may be different).
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I clearly don't understand how this works. Must be some sort of "new fangled" thing.
2 wraps of something ironically called, "safety wire", and my switch hasn't moved in a year.
Took me longer to find a pair of dykes to cut the "safety wire" than it did to close the switch and wrap it.
2 wraps of something ironically called, "safety wire", and my switch hasn't moved in a year.
Took me longer to find a pair of dykes to cut the "safety wire" than it did to close the switch and wrap it.
That's all possible, right now it's 16F in Wisconsin and I just spent the weekend putting snow chains on the tractor, putting away the summer implements, and putting the blower, plow, and FEL up front
I did this 2 weeks ago when it was 60F out. Makes it a bit less miserable job!
Exactly. I'm new at this so still figuring out out.I did this 2 weeks ago when it was 60F out. Makes it a bit less miserable job!
... not the weather part!
Where everything fits, getting the chains on so they don't rub, etc. Got a miss-manufactured chain from TireChain.com, they made it right right away so no complaint there, just stuck running lawn tires until the replacement chain arrived (which was fast), then swapping wheels and shuffling implements in the cold. And, AND, the Summit Top & Tilt kit ordered in June and "delayed twice due to running out of inventory" went from a September delay to November and now "we don't know." So, maybe by spring if they're still in business.
Made a little progress with the limited free time this weekend. Took the switch apart, tested everything, made a label, assembled. A friend said since it's a custom switch it should say, "A$$ BYPASS" though I'm not sure that's a good idea.
My original BX22 had no seat switch, and I never had a problem in the 16 +- years that I used it. I hate the seat switch in the BX23S because it will stall my tractor if I move forward to see something. I like Wi_Hedgehog's idea. Maybe he could start making them and give them away for a donation to cover parts and time?
I would look into something like a timer relay to let me get passed an area the seat switch was getting activated on. I would want the timer to de-activate the bypass for only a short period of time and default to using the seat safety switch.
FYI When I swapped my OEM seat for the Grammer air suspension seat I've discovered it's seat sensor is less sensitive to false triggers so it hasn't been an issue for me anymore.
My observation is the OEM seats are made tilted forward to drain standing water from the seat. It also made me slide off the slippery seat every time I hit a bump and triggered the sensor more easily if I moved forward in my seat. I got a fabric covered Grammer seat (cab tractor) and I don't slide off anymore. K OEM seats really suck.
I dug into the dash today, pulled the delay timer harness and found only 1 of 2 seat switch wires there, so I'll have to look further into what's going on in an electrical diagram. Kind of hate cutting holes in the dash until I know exactly what I'm doing.
I'm going with...I think we should play the game... "why did i drop the ban hammer on him at Mach speed".
Give me your best answer why.
One hint: It's not based on who I voted for.
If you don't know how to bypass a switch, you probably shouldn't own a tractor, much less bypass a switch on it.
Last edited:
johnjk
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
When I bought my B3200 from my local Orange dealer, it came with the seat safety switch disabled by the prior owner. Now that’s service.
The BX2370 seat has a plug for the Seat Occupied switch.
which should in theory have two solid yellow wires going to the Engine Shutdown Timer.
One of the two wires
traces to the timer plug and a stripped wire
under the dash,
and I can't find where the other goes in order to short the "source" and "return" like the seat switch would do when the seat is occupied. Trying to find a wiring diagram on my phone in the woods with little cell service and 15F temps isn't going well, is someone able to tell me where the other wire is or if I'm on the right track?
UPDATE: Figured out how the circuit works.
which should in theory have two solid yellow wires going to the Engine Shutdown Timer.
One of the two wires
traces to the timer plug and a stripped wire
under the dash,
and I can't find where the other goes in order to short the "source" and "return" like the seat switch would do when the seat is occupied. Trying to find a wiring diagram on my phone in the woods with little cell service and 15F temps isn't going well, is someone able to tell me where the other wire is or if I'm on the right track?
UPDATE: Figured out how the circuit works.
Last edited:
Sorry I don't have a wiring diagram to post for your machine. You might have some luck tracing the wire colors in your harness. Mine routes around under the deck and into another fat harness then to my intellipanel on my right fender.
My M59 has a R/B wire signal and is shared with other switches like PTO and clutch and a G/W going from the seat sensor directly back to the ECU. My R/B wire changes colors depending on where they connect in the harness.
I can post my diagram if you think it might help you understand how K does their wiring harnesses.
A slight recap for the crayon munchers:
I started by pulling the tape off the operator present switch.
Yellow and Yellow--not good.
The seat switch should eventually go to a timer relay so a slight bounce off the seat doesn't kill the engine, and that timer is under the dash.
The timer is attached to the plug furthest left--no need to remove the timer, just the plug.
-->I<-- didn't know which plug went to the timer, but now that's solved.
The yellow wire (the left yellow wire, not the right yellow wire) shorts back to the plug and is not energized with the ignition off. The trick to figuring this out is to turn the ignition on and realize it goes low (zero volts) when the seat is unoccupied and another condition (like implement) is engaged.
With the wire located the switch can be conveniently mounted in the dash, though finding a location is a bit problematic due to space considerations--it didn't fit where I wanted it if the turn signal switch function is retained.
Not enough space here either.
I started by pulling the tape off the operator present switch.
Yellow and Yellow--not good.
The seat switch should eventually go to a timer relay so a slight bounce off the seat doesn't kill the engine, and that timer is under the dash.
The timer is attached to the plug furthest left--no need to remove the timer, just the plug.
-->I<-- didn't know which plug went to the timer, but now that's solved.
The yellow wire (the left yellow wire, not the right yellow wire) shorts back to the plug and is not energized with the ignition off. The trick to figuring this out is to turn the ignition on and realize it goes low (zero volts) when the seat is unoccupied and another condition (like implement) is engaged.
With the wire located the switch can be conveniently mounted in the dash, though finding a location is a bit problematic due to space considerations--it didn't fit where I wanted it if the turn signal switch function is retained.
Not enough space here either.
Last edited:
The right side of the dash is cramped underneath with "stuff," let's leave it at that. Practically speaking the switch is best located on the left, though there are obstacles to avoid on the left side also.
I widened the hole and cleaned it up, and in the dark at 15°F (and wind) this looks straight both from the side & driver's seat. (Maybe it actually is, that's a job for the inspector and above my pay grade.)
The hole cannot be "tuh-tight" (or "fuggin' snug"--that's horrible!), even if the switch fits it cannot bind or it will be permanently "on."
Wiring it so it does more than look pretty...that's the electrician's job. I just left the seat switch plug unplugged and "jumperered it."
I widened the hole and cleaned it up, and in the dark at 15°F (and wind) this looks straight both from the side & driver's seat. (Maybe it actually is, that's a job for the inspector and above my pay grade.)
The hole cannot be "tuh-tight" (or "fuggin' snug"--that's horrible!), even if the switch fits it cannot bind or it will be permanently "on."
Wiring it so it does more than look pretty...that's the electrician's job. I just left the seat switch plug unplugged and "jumperered it."
Last edited: