Adding fold down ramps to trailer

bambam31

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My trailer has the stowaway ramps. I want to get a fab shop to modify them and make them into the fold down style. Here’s my question. If I add stabilizers to the ramps, how much gap in inches should I leave between the bottom of the stabilizers and the ground when trailer is not loaded? TIA
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I reread what you wrote, are you talking about this style?
If you are then you need enough clearance so when loading they hit but when loaded they are off the ground, or you won't be able to fold the ramps up.

1733981472658.png


Or this.

1733981534279.png


My first statement was thinking you were talking about these.

1733981682624.png


If you design them wrong this will happen!

1733981884764.png
 
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Runs With Scissors

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I am having a hard time visualizing this as well. But if I am following you correctly, the following might apply.

I used a set of jack stands one time to prevent the nose of the trailer from going skyward, and I did not account for the "sag" of the suspension, and the jack stands got trapped under the trailer.

So I "think" that the amount of "suspension sag" is going to be dependent on your trailers suspension and the max load that it is capable of carrying.

I am sure "load placement" would factor in as well.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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I'd 'think' about 2" but I did the opposite. Got rid of the fold down, went to pull outs. Unless you're young and fit,folding ramps ,without spring assist, were a physical challenge !

One way to get the correct 'gap' is easy. Once fab shop has modified the ramps for 'pivot' holes, place one down on road, C-clamp a C-channel 'leg' with 2by4 underneath it and test if it swings up and down easily.
be sure to round off ALL the corners of the legs OR keep a big box of bandaids in the trailer storage box !
 
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dirtydeed

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Mine are roughly 1.5"-2" off the ground.

I've had them get caught just a couple of times when the trailer wheels are parked in a low spot. Easy fix is to just pull ahead with the tow vehicle and the ramps will cam back over. You'll just need to put the grass divot back in place. ;)
 
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D2Cat

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I have the ramps like NIW shows in his second picture. The are about 2" above ground level when the trailer is level. I also made the bottom support (shown as a channel in the picture) a flat 3/8" plate. This strengthens the feet and keeps them spaced, but it also allows some flexibility if you're ever loading and the tail of the trailer is too low and the feet drag in the dirt. This plate allows the weight of the ramp falling to shave some dirt out of the way.

I almost never load any equipment on asphalt surfaces, so having the foot being able to shave off some dirt has saved me a few times..
 
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jaxs

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Trailer jacks Wolf suggested would work without complications. Folding ramps work until you need to haul something longer than trailer. Folding ramps look kool on mow and blow lawn service trailers but are most practical for trailers dedicated to heavy machinery such as crawler tractor or full grown back-hoe.
 
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The Evil Twin

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My trailer has the stowaway ramps. I want to get a fab shop to modify them and make them into the fold down style. Here’s my question. If I add stabilizers to the ramps, how much gap in inches should I leave between the bottom of the stabilizers and the ground when trailer is not loaded? TIA
About an inch when the trailer is on level ground ant the tractor is parked where it will be strapped down.
Doing it this way will ensure there is clearance unloaded. When the tractor is crawling up the ramps and into the rear of the trailer, the extra weight will squat the trailer. As you pull forward and put more weight on the truck and the front of the trailer, the squat will lessen and allow you to fold up the ramps.
 

bambam31

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Mobile, AL
I reread what you wrote, are you talking about this style?
If you are then you need enough clearance so when loading they hit but when loaded they are off the ground, or you won't be able to fold the ramps up.

View attachment 143997

Or this.

View attachment 143998

My first statement was thinking you were talking about these.

View attachment 143999

If you design them wrong this will happen!

View attachment 144000
The first and second pic is what I was referring to. Thx
 

JasonW

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Jan 29, 2015
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I have this setup on my 24’ trailer with flip up ramps. If your having them built I would say load the tractor then measure with truck and trailer level, give about an inch or so clearance. Have them built with ramp assistance springs, had to add them to mine so my dad could lift them.

Have them built to where the c-channel is positioned downward as it will dig into the ground to keep truck/trailer from moving as much during loading and unloading.

I added a piece of c-channel to the bottom of my ramps just for that reason. Depending what I’m hauling or where I load and unload I would sometimes have to let the ramps down and then back up for them to lower all the way. Same way with loading and pulling forward to be able to fold them up.
 
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JasonW

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Also I have someone I can recommend that does fab work on the side that done some work for me recently. He’s just across the state line.
 
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bambam31

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Equipment
L3800HST 4x4,R1,FEL, 6'disc, 5'bush hog,piranhaTB,6'grader,6'rake, 48"forks
Apr 3, 2014
319
26
23
Mobile, AL
Thanks I plan to take my trailer loaded when I get the ramps modified.
Also I have someone I can recommend that does fab work on the side that done some work for me recently. He’s just across the state line.
I have this setup on my 24’ trailer with flip up ramps. If your having them built I would say load the tractor then measure with truck and trailer level, give about an inch or so clearance. Have them built with ramp assistance springs, had to add them to mine so my dad could lift them.

Have them built to where the c-channel is positioned downward as it will dig into the ground to keep truck/trailer from moving as much during loading and unloading.

I added a piece of c-channel to the bottom of my ramps just for that reason. Depending what I’m hauling or where I load and unload I would sometimes have to let the ramps down and then back up for them to lower all the way. Same way with loading and pulling forward to be able to fold them up.