Need advice, rear hydraulics, top and tilt

[Squirrely Baker]

Im in the process of buying a lx2620 and need to know which direction to go on rear hydraulics. Ive convinced myself i need top and tilt for the box scraper. Lots of driveway to learn to fix.

Questions I have:

Should i go with the 2 factory kubota rear remotes or is this leak down issue i hear about avoidable with a better aftermarket solution? If aftermarket, which one?

Should I go with the factory top and tilt cylinders, or something like fit rite I hear good things about? This is more a question of whether the cash price for fit rite makes enough sense for a newbie, or will I be satisfied enough with kubota's factory t&t, considering i can include it in the loan?

Assuming I start with the factory remote hydraulic setup, do I want the 2nd position double acting valve, or float detent valve? Again, the only purpose i have for rear hydraulics, for now, is the box scraper.

Many thanks for any input

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Have you looked at a Landplane for driveway maintenance?

Factory TNT is fine, I don't think in an LX your going to push it that hard.
You don't need float for TNT but might come in handy later on.

 

[Squirrely Baker]

Have you looked at a Landplane for driveway maintenance?

Factory TNT is fine, I don't think in an LX your going to push it that hard.
You don't need float for TNT but might come in handy later on.

That would be a grading plane? Ive seen them, and both salesman tried to sell me on it rather than a box scraper. I have some well worn ruts, lots of river rocks in the soil, not much gravel on the surface and just a lot of grading work to do. I tried to impress on the sales guys that but im not sure they heard it. Or maybe I am all wrong on the scraper?

Would i better off going that route?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That would be a grading plane? Ive seen them, and both salesman tried to sell me on it rather than a box scraper. I have some well worn ruts, lots of river rocks in the soil, not much gravel on the surface and just a lot of grading work to do. I tried to impress on the sales guys that but im not sure they heard it. Or maybe I am all wrong on the scraper?

Would i better off going that route?

I love my land plane, it works great at getting rid of ruts, it will move rock right into the ruts.
Add some 3/4 minus and you'll have a excellent driveway in nothing flat.

 

[PaulL]

Your first maintenance may be a bit harder with a land plane. Every use thereafter I believe will be easier. You may be able to borrow a box blade for that first go (if the land plane can't do it).

 

[TheOldHokie]

Im in the process of buying a lx2620 and need to know which direction to go on rear hydraulics. Ive convinced myself i need top and tilt for the box scraper. Lots of driveway to learn to fix.

Questions I have:

Should i go with the 2 factory kubota rear remotes or is this leak down issue i hear about avoidable with a better aftermarket solution? If aftermarket, which one?

Should I go with the factory top and tilt cylinders, or something like fit rite I hear good things about? This is more a question of whether the cash price for fit rite makes enough sense for a newbie, or will I be satisfied enough with kubota's factory t&t, considering i can include it in the loan?

Assuming I start with the factory remote hydraulic setup, do I want the 2nd position double acting valve, or float detent valve? Again, the only purpose i have for rear hydraulics, for now, is the box scraper.

Many thanks for any input

Factory remotrs are certainly the best integrated.

Looks like two OEM valves cost ~$1500.
A third party kit will be as much if not more and if you roll your own from scratch you might save $700. Neither will be nearly as well integrated and many wind up being ugly warts.

You are going to have leakdown with any valve. You can get better aftermarket valves but you will pay a substantial premium over OEM.

Adding a $90 lock valve to an OEM or aftermarket valve/cylinder will totally eliminate leakdown/drift but you will lose the ability to float the cylinder. I have one on my leaky low dollar DIY valve and top link. Its rock solid and I have never wanted or missed float. YMMV.

A TnT kit from Fitrite is clearly the gold standard but you will pay more and lead times are long.

Dan

 

[old and tired]

Factory remotes are certainly the best integrated....

....Adding a $90 lock valve...

Ditto on the Factory option being the cleanest best looking install... Also cost the most.

As for the lock valve, you can read more - look up, "Hydraulic Double Pilot Check Valve" or "DPCV" - works great, no drift what so ever.

What is your driveway like now? Mine has large rocks below a shallow layer of crush and run... I can not use a Land Plain / Grader due to those large rocks. Adding gravel (lots of gravel) and someday I might use a Land Grader. That's more than I am willing to pay for.

Once you learn how to effectively use a box blade, I'm not sure the "One Trick Pony" grader blade is worth it. Most videos I've seen using a Land Plain, the driveways didn't need to be "smoothed out". They just fluff up the rock. I would like to see a video of the land plain tearing up a potholed, rutted driveway.

 

[Squirrely Baker]

Ditto on the Factory option being the cleanest best looking install... Also cost the most.

As for the lock valve, you can read more - look up, "Hydraulic Double Pilot Check Valve" or "DPCV" - works great, no drift what so ever.

What is your driveway like now? Mine has large rocks below a shallow layer of crush and run... I can not use a Land Plain / Grader due to those large rocks. Adding gravel (lots of gravel) and someday I might use a Land Grader. That's more than I am willing to pay for.

Once you learn how to effectively use a box blade, I'm not sure the "One Trick Pony" grader blade is worth it. Most videos I've seen using a Land Plain, the driveways didn't need to be "smoothed out". They just fluff up the rock. I would like to see a video of the land plain tearing up a potholed, rutted driveway.

Your driveway sounds like mine, depending on how big of rocks you are talking about. River rock through and through out here. I have the same impression of the land plane, but ive never used either. I think ill go the box scraper route and learn as i go.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

possible option
hire a guy with bulldozer to properly build you a driveway, using correct materials.
after that every couple of weeks drag a heavy bar and chains up and down it, after church...before brunch.
No need for landplane, box blade, grader blade IF the driveway's done RIGHT the 1stt time.
One guy I helped, bulldozed his 800' driveway, covered it with used 4' diameter grinding stones. Took us all summer to haul and place. Covered them with 3/4- ,tamped that down. It was fine for 10-12 years then needed 2 truck loads to 'dress up and make pretty'.
It's all about the 'prep'. start off right, it's easy.....if not ,you're fighting a losing battle, every day.