Lazer Level

[NorthwoodsLife]

So, at my jobsite I am hanging a barrier curtain. The curtain is 10' high and runs about 30' from a wall to meet another curtain of the same height. So I am thinking of a lazer that I can mount to the wall to get the whole thing level.

Which Lazer level to buy?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

just about anyone will work for single use BUT FWIW the lower priced ones may not have enough Ummph to be see when the sun is up or the shop lights on.

One time use you can compensate for weak laser output by working in near dark. One time use work around likely needed on the weaker / cheaper versions.

My cheapo Mastercraft would do the job but not during daylight hours or shop lights on. Would need to be pretty dark but for a one time project the job would be done.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

just about anyone will work for single use BUT FWIW the lower priced ones may not have enough Ummph to be see when the sun is up or the shop lights on.

Agreed. I have had the same problem trying to install a fence in daylight. It was pretty challenging, and the distance I was trying to use it at was under 10 feet.

But Northwoods, it doesn't need to be mounted on a wall. A pole will do. Just make sure it can be undisturbed, and you REALLY want one that is self leveling.

Maybe you can rent a decent one....

 

[Tarmy]

The lasers available for general public use are regulated as to power/out put so the visibility can be a challenge. Supposedly the green ones are easier to see in daylight. If I am doing something like you are proposing I wait until dusk and get a good line and mark that places I need to…or place witness poles and mark those. I also bought a Bosch unit with the powered target that can sense the beam in daylight better than my old eyes.

 

[Dustball]

Go for the green lasers rather than the red lasers.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I know it's overkill for your use, but I have one of these and you don't "see" the laser, it's done with a reciver that see's the light and tells you up or down and level.

 

[jaxs]

A water level is accurate and inexpensive.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Thanks to all for the advice.

A clear tube with water seems to be the cheapest solution. And reasonably accurate. I forgot about that method. Thank you, jaxs.

 

[Old Machinist]

You might look into renting a professional leveling system. The self leveling models with a audible sensor will save you a bunch of time.

When I prepped the site for my metal barn I bought a cheap level and tripod from HF. It was bright enough to work on a cloudy day and served the purpose but man did I spend a ton of time with it. Every time I moved it I had to relevel before I could do any checking. Of course a lot of that time was working and tamping material then checking then working some more. At the end of the day my Son In Law came over with a Bosch unit from his work to check behind me. It took all of 30 minutes for him to set up and check all of the footer surfaces. BUT I was within 3/4" everywhere using the cheap level. The building design allowed for them to compensate for up to 3" so I was golden.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

You might look into renting a professional leveling system. The self leveling models with a audible sensor will save you a bunch of time.

When I prepped the site for my metal barn I bought a cheap level and tripod from HF. It was bright enough to work on a cloudy day and served the purpose but man did I spend a ton of time with it. Every time I moved it I had to relevel before I could do any checking. Of course a lot of that time was working and tamping material then checking then working some more. At the end of the day my Son In Law came over with a Bosch unit from his work to check behind me. It took all of 30 minutes for him to set up and check all of the footer surfaces. BUT I was within 3/4" everywhere using the cheap level. The building design allowed for them to compensate for up to 3" so I was golden.

Thank you. With my civil eng major (non-grad, married and quit college. Doh!), from decades ago I am pretty good with my old- school transit. But lost with today's tech. I think that I might break out my transit and 'shoot it', old school. It's a big shop that I'm working on. So distance is needed with a transit. I think it will work.

With modern tech, a lazer seemed, to me, to be logical. We didn't have that (lazers) so much in the 70s and 80s. As in, Zero.

Shooting for cheap and acurate without too much manpower. A water level is simple, but only as acurate as the person viewing it.

Thanks to all.

Eric

 

[Kennyd4110]

It's Laser, LOL, no "Z"

Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

It's Laser, LOL, no "Z"

Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation

Thank you. My mistake.

Then it should be pronounced lasser. Or lacer. Not lazer. Lol

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Thank you. My mistake.

I know better, and I still get that one wrong sometimes.

Then it should be pronounced lasser. Or lacer. Not lazer. Lol

Well, you'd be right except for one small detail - the guys who invented it get to decide what it's called! So there!

(Besides, it's not a word, it's an acronym, so all bets are off!)

 

[xrocketengineer]

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Fricken Laser Beams!

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

"One Million Dollars"!