Advice for new tractor

[Munsey]

Hi all, new member looking to buy my first tractor and could use some advice. Our property is relatively small, just over 2 acres, heavily wooded and some areas fairly rocky, Other areas are soft-loamy so I feel weight would be an issue during the wet season.
We plan to build a house next year so some of the uses will be moving and leveling 100+ ton of road base (160’ driveway), backfilling water, sewer, utility trenches, moving some of the large rock (300-600 lb), grading front drainage ditch, other misc site work. At some point will probably end up with a stump grinder as well.
I’ve been looking at the LX2620HSD, I like the lighter weight for the soft soil. Just not sure how well the lighter tractor will do moving the material I have. I’m ok with moving smaller amounts, time isn’t too big of an issue. Most of the tractors in the neighborhood are JD 1023’s or similar and they are happy with them as far as maintaining property. I think I want to go a little bigger mainly for comfort.
So just trying to get some advice and make sure I’m on the right track.

 

[CAPT Seabee]

You actually have two jobs. One is limited timeframe (construction) and the other is long term (maintenance). If you "size" for the first, you'll likely be overkill for the second. Also using the second for the first means you're teasing the job along vs. just getting it done. Consider renting what you need for specific tasks. It'll be a lot cheaper than buying big. The smaller maintenance sized can do the close quarters chores during construction. I started out with a JD 1025R in Northern Idaho. Had auger, brush hog, loader, etc. The snow blower up front "worked", but sitting out in 10 degree weather took its toll. I upgraded to my current L5460 which does pick up a ton near the pivot. The cab makes the winters somewhat immaterial.

 

[bbxlr8]

Welcome - great knowledgable group here that helped me w my purchase. I'll start it off by saying that you are on the right track and will get many opinions. All these are like a Swiss army knife vs a dedicated tool for the job. Any will do it and 4WD is a godsend so I would worry about that; time/capability/cost are the 3 legs you trade off on.

That being said: I bought & love the larger frame of the small engine L series and have been reshaping/grading my property over time. I added a box blade quickly and a stump grinder over time. Maybe a bit much for 2A - possibly think about getting someone to spread your gravel quickly and go smaller

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day.

I think @CAPT Seabee is shooting you straight about the two different timeframes and jobs to do.

Couple questions:

1. Do you plan to mow lawn with this machine? If so MMM or 3pt mower?

2. What do you plan to use the machine for after the initial heavy lifting / digging / trenching is completed?

I am sure this goes against the grain here, but I personally don’t think number of acres should determine machine size and capability (unless you can’t turn the machine around ). I think weight and grunt to complete your tasks and time available have more to do with sizing then acres. YMMV.

Depending on your plans with questions 1 and 2 I think you could go a couple different ways.

 

[Munsey]

Thanks for the replies. I started off looking at smaller tractors, test drove a Branson 2610 and couldn’t wait to get off of it. I’ve had a couple back surgeries and between little to no seat suspension and that cramped hunched over the steering wheel feeling, I was miserable. I didn’t drive but did look at the B2601, sitting in it felt exactly the same as the Branson. I did drive the LX2620HSD and an L2502 and both were very comfortable. So, I’m headed in that direction.
I really don’t see any mowing with this. I thought about the 2620SU model without the mid pto but was quoted $1,500 & $2,000 from two different dealers for the seat upgrade. I would want the better seat.
After construction the uses will vary from running a stump grinder (50-60 stumps), landscaping, and general maintenance.

 

[CAPT Seabee]

Thanks for the replies. I started off looking at smaller tractors, test drove a Branson 2610 and couldn’t wait to get off of it. I’ve had a couple back surgeries and between little to no seat suspension and that cramped hunched over the steering wheel feeling, I was miserable. I didn’t drive but did look at the B2601, sitting in it felt exactly the same as the Branson. I did drive the LX2620HSD and an L2502 and both were very comfortable. So, I’m headed in that direction.
I really don’t see any mowing with this. I thought about the 2620SU model without the mid pto but was quoted $1,500 & $2,000 from two different dealers for the seat upgrade. I would want the better seat.
After construction the uses will vary from running a stump grinder (50-60 stumps), landscaping, and general maintenance.

Basically, the seat "upgrade" relates to Kubota not offering it as a factory upgrade. They send the unit to the dealer with the basic seat. You're buying a new seat and paying for the swap out. I got blown up when I was 25 so the air ride is a notable improvement. WARNING. If your tractor has a seat that tilts up so the rear PTO can run (generator), the new seat will not tilt up. The "safety" circuit needs to be wired to a manual switch. BTW in cold areas, you can't order a tractor with a rear glass defogger. It's like the seat where the dealer typically tosses the plain glass. Not good.

BTW, I did some modifications on mine which I'd call the Retired Package. Seat, steps, two cams, tool box, tube plugs for chain storage, cup holder in a proper location, etc.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

@CAPT Seabee : That's a really nice & smart setup.

@Munsey : Perhaps look into the Used market, I've seen some ~130 hour (or less) tractors in mint condition sell for very attractive prices. That way you can buy big, do the work you need (plus manage the unforseen things that always seem to come up), and down the road sell the machine for something smaller if that's what you want to do.

It's not often someone says. "I have too much tractor" even when they have more tractor than needed. It seems they keep the tractor for bigger jobs and get a smaller tractor (or zero-turn mower) as appropriate.

Sometimes "buying used" is a break-even proposition, some used equipment needs parts and usually "a good servicing" at minimum, and sometimes the equipment has been maintained meticulously and the owner wants it to go to a good home. With the help of members here my experience with Kubota has been great and allowed me to help others in the community, for which I'm thankful.

 

[Munsey]

@CAPT Seabee : That's a really nice & smart setup.

@Munsey : Perhaps look into the Used market, I've seen some ~130 hour (or less) tractors in mint condition sell for very attractive prices. That way you can buy big, do the work you need (plus manage the unforseen things that always seem to come up), and down the road sell the machine for something smaller if that's what you want to do.

It's not often someone says. "I have too much tractor" even when they have more tractor than needed. It seems they keep the tractor for bigger jobs and get a smaller tractor (or zero-turn mower) as appropriate.

Sometimes "buying used" is a break-even proposition, some used equipment needs parts and usually "a good servicing" at minimum, and sometimes the equipment has been maintained meticulously and the owner wants it to go to a good home. With the help of members here my experience with Kubota has been great and allowed me to help others in the community, for which I'm thankful.

Yes, I’ve thought the same thing. There have been a few in my area that look decent and I’m getting a better idea of the value of them. Just trying to gain enough experience so I feel comfortable moving on something when it comes up. What Are your thoughts on hours, do you think staying somewhere around the 100 hr mark is best? I guess how well the machine was cared for makes a difference too.

 

[Elliott in GA]

FWIW, I have moved and spread 100+ tons of gravel with my LX 2610 SU. The machine did it without any issues; each struck bucket of crusher gravel is about 700 lbs.
Unless you need a MMM, get the bigger tires/wheels for the LX. You will have much better traction and stability with a little more ground clearance.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I like my 2501 for many reasons.

For me, it is the "Goldilocks" of tractors for my situation.

Big enough to handle some decent work, yet small enough for my property. (only 5 acres...although I agree with @rc51stierhoff , the jobs should dictate the machine size not the property)

I also like the fact there are no BS emissions, its as "old school" as it gets, and I'm good with that.

I don't know if "Turf tires" would help with the "soft dirt" problem or not, but it is an option. (although I hate the "look" of turf tires personally)

Edit: I also like the fact that it is a very popular model, so parts and "knowledge" are/will be available for longer than I will be alive, although since its a Kubota, many models will too.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

What Are your thoughts on hours, do you think staying somewhere around the 100 hr mark is best? I guess how well the machine was cared for makes a difference too.

I'm new to "tractors" and own the smallest of the small, so in that respect am not the guy to ask. The best I can do is share what I've gathered and hope members with more experience speak up.

For "like brand new," under 150 hours is where I've seen them, and under 200 hours can be "darn clean."

From what I understand, Kubotas last around 2,000 hours when being worked "overly hard" (like skidding logs, which is work not advised for this type of machine) or when not maintained, though over 4,000 hours when used "reasonably." So I'm guessing if the owner did not run implements larger than recommended and kind of babied the machine and kept up on maintanance, then buying a machine with 4,000 hours on it could be a relatively low entry price for owning a tractor, and there should be another 2,000+ hours left in the tractor. You might need to replace some old seals/hoses/hydraulic lines depending on where and how it was stored (like outside/uncovered), but it still might be a bargain for you.

What I have found is even sub-compact Kubotas have a lot of capability if using quality implements (of appropriate size). The Front End Loader capacity is perhaps the limiting factor with Kubotas, many owners seem to want "a lot more" which leads to "you can never own too big a tractor."

At least such is my impression so far.

 

[Speed25]

You're in the same boat I was in with similar terrain and acreage. I picked up a new L2501 and did the heavy work I needed. I sold it several years later for what bought it for, then moved down to a smaller BX TLB for maintenance. In your case, I'd probably pick up a low-hour L2501 as others have said. I see clean sub-50-hr HST tractors going for $18k-$19k occasionally that look brand new.

 

[jyoutz]

IDK how well 3ph mounted stump grinders work, but if you intend to get one, then by all means get a HST machine. And I’m thinking that a grinder would toss the machine around a bit, so I wouldn’t consider a B or LX series machine. Have you considered renting a stump grinder or excavator to go that work? I’m assuming that you’re just planning to remove stumps around the house and yard, and not in the woods.

 

[Munsey]

IDK how well 3ph mounted stump grinders work, but if you intend to get one, then by all means get a HST machine. And I’m thinking that a grinder would toss the machine around a bit, so I wouldn’t consider a B or LX series machine. Have you considered renting a stump grinder or excavator to go that work? I’m assuming that you’re just planning to remove stumps around the house and yard, and not in the woods.

I’ve been wondering the same thing, I think I read on here someone using one on an LX2610 but I could be mistaken. I think I would give a nod to the L series doing a little better job with the added weight. We rented a 312 ex and pulled nine 10 wheel dump loads of stumps. The stumps I have left are spread through more of the wooded areas, it was a little tight to get the 312 to them.

 

[jyoutz]

I’ve been wondering the same thing, I think I read on here someone using one on an LX2610 but I could be mistaken. I think I would give a nod to the L series doing a little better job with the added weight. We rented a 312 ex and pulled nine 10 wheel dump loads of stumps. The stumps I have left are spread through more of the wooded areas, it was a little tight to get the 312 to them.

Have you considered hiring someone with a forestry masticator on a small skid steer? Probably less than a day’s work for 2 acres.

 

[Munsey]

You're in the same boat I was in with similar terrain and acreage. I picked up a new L2501 and did the heavy work I needed. I sold it several years later for what bought it for, then moved down to a smaller BX TLB for maintenance. In your case, I'd probably pick up a low-hour L2501 as others have said. I see clean sub-50-hr HST tractors going for $18k-$19k occasionally that look brand new.

This could be a great option. I’ve seen a couple 2501’s sell recently but I wasn’t sure if that was the direction I wanted to go. I’ll keep looking to see if one pops up.

 

[Speed25]

Have you considered hiring someone with a forestry masticator on a small skid steer? Probably less than a day’s work for 2 acres.

This is exactly why I got the L2501. I got several quotes for doing my woods and due to the terrain and rocks, and random hidden metal bits (old farm place) the cheapest quote I got was $12k. Knowing how well Kubotas hold their value, I just decided to buy a tractor, haha. I wasn't in a rush to get it done, so I just did some when I could. Some grading, some tree/stump removal, moving some rocks, lots of brush clearing, etc. Found the forks to be invaluable for pulling up and moving old discarded tractor tires that I found as I cleared.

 

[jyoutz]

This is exactly why I got the L2501. I got several quotes for doing my woods and due to the terrain and rocks, and random hidden metal bits (old farm place) the cheapest quote I got was $12k. Knowing how well Kubotas hold their value, I just decided to buy a tractor, haha. I wasn't in a rush to get it done, so I just did some when I could. Some grading, some tree/stump removal, moving some rocks, lots of brush clearing, etc. Found the forks to be invaluable for pulling up and moving old discarded tractor tires that I found as I cleared.

A suggestion. If you decide to explore the contractor/ masticator option again, contact your local state forestry department for a list of contractors. We are used to bidding with people who do more agricultural and forestry work, not residential. I had some bids last summer for $1000/acre and that was for thinning and grinding downfall and old logs also.

 

[NCL4701]

I’ve been wondering the same thing, I think I read on here someone using one on an LX2610 but I could be mistaken. I think I would give a nod to the L series doing a little better job with the added weight. We rented a 312 ex and pulled nine 10 wheel dump loads of stumps. The stumps I have left are spread through more of the wooded areas, it was a little tight to get the 312 to them.

If you go by we a 3 point stump grinder I agree it’s not the hp that will limit you so much as the mass of the machine trying to hold it. You can compensate for hp by taking lighter cuts. It takes mass to hold a heavy spinning wheel of destruction as it plows through a death match with a stump.

 

[BAP]

I am going to go a completely different route for suggesting what to do. I would go find a good used Case 580 or John Deere 310 or 410 backhoe to buy. Use it to do all your work aimed towards building your house and getting the property in the shape you want it. Dig out the stumps with the backhoe or hire someone to come in and grind them out. Then, sell it off and buy a lx2620 to maintain the property. You will get way more work done with a large backhoe and they can handle it without abuse and perform better. Buy a tractor to maintain afterwards in the size that really fits what you need instead of buying now a tractor that fits everything you want to do over the next few years and ending with something that may not be the best long term.