D1105 Won't start after rebuild

[Henro]

Look under the bottom of the crank and you should see the key way slot even in the oil gear.
The slot is 180 degrees from the dots on the top.
I use 2 stiff putty knives, one on each side driven in between the oil drive gear and the crank gear to get them to split apart.
Unless the engine had something that stopped the crank with incredible force the chances are really really low that there is any damage to the key way.

I have a simple question.

If the gear has a key way, and the crank has a key way, and each only has one, how would it be possible to get the position of the gear on the crankshaft wrong?

Just an honest question by someone who is electrical in background...

I am assuming that the wolfman is suggesting that for the timing to be off due to a shift in position of that gear on the crankshaft, it would have had to have shifted due to some catastrophic stopping event...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have a simple question.

If the gear has a key way, and the crank has a key way, and each only has one, how would it be possible to get the position of the gear on the crankshaft wrong?

Just an honest question by someone who is electrical in background...

I am assuming that the wolfman is suggesting that for the timing to be off due to a shift in position of that gear on the crankshaft, it would have had to have shifted due to some catastrophic stopping event...

Yes the only way for it to be off would be if the key has sheared and the gears have turned on the crank.
It's a very highly unlikely event.

 

[yeltsin71]

Look under the bottom of the crank and you should see the key way slot even in the oil gear.
The slot is 180 degrees from the dots on the top.
I use 2 stiff putty knives, one on each side driven in between the oil drive gear and the crank gear to get them to split apart.
Unless the engine had something that stopped the crank with incredible force the chances are really really low that there is any damage to the key way.

thanks for this but I have tried everything I can to get them apart and can’t which is why I am thinking keyway damage .

My next step will be to grind some narrow slots on the back of the oil gear to try and get purchase with gear puller. If still no joy it will be a destructive method to get the gear free and then replace with new.

 

[yeltsin71]

thanks for this but I have tried everything I can to get them apart and can’t which is why I am thinking keyway damage .

My next step will be to grind some narrow slots on the back of the oil gear to try and get purchase with gear puller. If still no joy it will be a destructive method to get the gear free and then replace with new.

Can’t see the keyway at all the oil gear is hiding it

 

[yeltsin71]

Can’t see the keyway at all the oil gear is hiding it

managed to get back in this tonight and got the oil pump gear off. Interestingly it is not on a key and there is sign of it having spun which is why I was having so much trouble removing it (see photo ) I guess it is just an interference fir?

Anyway, the key on the crank timing gear is fine so I am now confident that all timing gears are in correct position when aligned.

Gonna put timing side back together and have a look at push rods and electrical as someone here

suggested

 

[Henro]

What method worked to get the oil pump gear off?

The Wolfman‘s putty knife method, or something else?

OR just applying more force using the set up shown in post 18?

 

[Flintknapper]

Interestingly it is not on a key and there is sign of it having spun which is why I was having so much trouble removing it (see photo ) I guess it is just an interference fit?

^^^^^

The oil pump gear on my Land Cruiser is a similar arrangement. It does NOT utilize an interference fit (though a very close fit). It is dependent upon pressure from the crank pulley bolt torque (304 lb. ft in my case) to pull the crank pulley against the gear to prevent it from spinning.

Kubota might have used the same technique. Avoids having to make a second key-way on the crank and works well enough IF the proper torque is applied.

 

[yeltsin71]

What method worked to get the oil pump gear off?

The Wolfman‘s putty knife method, or something else?

OR just applying more force using the set up shown in post 18?-

I got my grinder out with a 1.2mm cutting disk and cut a little 2-3mm deep chase on both sides of the oil gear right at the junction of the two gears- just enough to seat the puller. The gear has spun on the shaft at some stage which is why it wouldn’t come easily . Can see the marks in the photo. I gave these a bit of a clean up with some emery paper before reassembly

 

[Henro]

I got my grinder out with a 1.2mm cutting disk and cut a little 2-3mm deep chase on both sides of the oil gear right at the junction of the two gears- just enough to seat the puller. The gear has spun on the shaft at some stage which is why it wouldn’t come easily . Can see the marks in the photo. I gave these a bit of a clean up with some emery paper before reassembly

Thanks for the update! Greatly appreciated!

 

[yeltsin71]

Thanks for the update! Greatly appreciated!

Final update got the engine running after double checking all mechanical possibilities I started looking at electrical and sure enough was an earthing issue. Ran a wrath cable from battery earth to a starter motor bolt and she fired up.

 

[DGRenzi]

I've had luck bleeding at least 1 injector at hp line from pump to injector. It usually starts, runs rough, then I crack the other 2 till they spurt and run fuel. Tighten the up ans bada bing bada boom it lives.

 

[Clutch]

Final update got the engine running after double checking all mechanical possibilities I started looking at electrical and sure enough was an earthing issue. Ran a wrath cable from battery earth to a starter motor bolt and she fired up.

Thanks for following up! Always nice to hear about the eventual solutions.

 

[Henro]

Final update got the engine running after double checking all mechanical possibilities I started looking at electrical and sure enough was an earthing issue. Ran a wrath cable from battery earth to a starter motor bolt and she fired up.

Is a wrath cable what we would call a jumper cable here in the USA? I assume so. Is this a common term in New Zealand?