Thinking about an L3200/3800

[number9]

So we recently bought some land (finally). I mowed the grass the other day with my JD LT155, a push mower and weedeater. It sucked BAD and I still had to go back and finish it up the next day.

The areas in the top pic in front and to the left of the shop are on a fairly good slope (worse than the pic looks). I was able to mow running side to side in front of the shop on the LT155, but it was a little pucker factor at times.

The area along the pond was a different story. I was able to use the LT155 along the drive and over to about where the shade is under the trees and even the area between the pontoon boat and where the shade starts was a bit hairy at times. From the shade under the trees on over to the right I push mowed a lot of it which was a PITA until I got tired of fighting the mower and just used the weedeater.

The second pic is to show several areas back in the woods where the PO has cleared fields and sewed grass under the trees making nice spots to camp or shoot or whatever. I'll need to mow those as well. There's a semi-rough dirt road running back to those areas. I'll need to maintain this road. All these areas to mow probably add up to about 5+ac I'd guess, I don't know.

The grass everywhere but around the shop are not a "groomed lawn" so I'm gonna need something that is good for rough ground and is wide with a low cener of gravity for the slopes I'd think. The PO mentioned once that he would haul his zero turn mower back in the woods for those spots, so I just assume that he used the same machine for the areas in the pic as well, but he didn't say what kind it was or anything.

I was thinking that I'd end up needing a used backhoe at some point down the road, but my father in law has let me borrow a Case580L to drag some trees out of the upper end of the pond and it's fine for that, but after fooling around with it I am thinking it may be too big and heavy and I may not have much use for a real backhoe once I get these trees cleaned out.

I have had a few people tell me that a compact tractor with finish deck and bush hog deck would be good.

From the reading I've been doing, I am leaning toward something like a Kubota L3200/3800, I really need it for mowing most of all because that is a weekly chore, right. However, I think if I didn't get one with a FEL I'd kick myself later for it.

Here's what I am thinking and why....

Kubota L3200/3800 - good size, not too big/too small, can mow and do lots of other things too - a multi-tool
4x4 - must have, my place gets slick when it rains
R4 tires - good comprimise on traction if the dirt road is muddy and not tearing my yard up when mowing
HST - the backhoe I've been running is hydro and I think it would be a lot smoother, nicer when mowing around the pond/shop
FEL - I am sure I'd use the heck out of it - but I want it to be Quick Release so I can drop it when I want to mow around the house/shop
Finish Deck - around 5' deck I guess, but I am thinking I'd rather the finish deck be a mid deck / drive over type, think that would be easier to mow around the house/shop/pond with
Bush Hog Deck - around 5' deck ? for the rough areas
Rear Blade - I could see using a rear blade to maintain the gravel driveway and the dirt road back in the woods

I am sure some day in a year or two we'll want to have a garden, not a BIG field, but just a regular family garden, so I'd want to be able to use the tractor for that too - I'd assume this would be cake for a tractor like this?

Now, here's the thing, I am mechanically inclined and would do all the maintenance I could on my own but I don't know squat about tractors - though I am reading and trying to learn.

- Am I thinking along the correct lines here for what I need or am I way off base?
- Are there any certain models of FEL that I should look for / stay away from?
- Is the mid mount deck a good idea for finish mowing? - learned today this is not an option on the L3200/3800 bummer
- Are there options I should also look for or get while am at it?
- I want to be able to quick disconnect both the front bucket from the loader AND the whole FEL all together, just drop it and back away for times when I mow around the house and stuff, is that possible and if so, what is that option called? - this is the LA524FL, right?
- I see mention of hyd valves and controls that are options, but I don't know what those do for me or which I need - I just know what I want to be able to do with the tractor

Obviously, I'd LOVE to find one used for a great savings, but I don't know if I could find one with the options I want mentioned above - maybe/hopefully I can. I don't really want to drop the $$$ for a new one, but I see some of these places online selling "packages" that don't seem to be too far off some used prices I see. Any recommendations of places that offer great prices around KY/OH/IN, if I buy out of state I don't pay sales tax, so that would be nice.

ANY help / suggestions you guys could give me would be great. I am not committed to a Kubota, but seems they get great reviews. I have a JD dealer here in my town, and another one that deals New Holland and Mihindra (I think). I have 3 Kubota dealers within 30min drive as well. I don't know how good a dealer any of them is though. Went to one dealer today and he priced a L3200HST, R4 tires, LA524 for around $19,800.

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[Eric McCarthy]

Sounds like your on the right path so far to me boss. I'd go for the L3800 because bigger is always better. I've heard good things on this forum about Barlow Equipment somewhere in the Kentucky area. One member on here just recently said that Barlow has the best price for his needs and is delivering it too him in Michigan.

You can buy a skid steer quick connect for the bucket in order to drop the bucket from the loader arms and then the arms from the tractor. Don't really need too, the entire loader comes off the tractor just fine and pretty easy. My personal preference I love how fast and easy it is to pull three pins unhook the pto and drive away from a finishing mower rather then fool around and beat your brains in trying to wrestle a mid mower from underneath.

 

[Bulldog]

Welcome to OTT Number9. Looks like a pretty place you have. I'll offer some personal opinion.

I would go with the larger of the 2 tractors. I have a 32 hp tractor and most of the time I would really like to have more power.
Definately get 4x4.
I would get R1 tires but that's just me. R4's don't like slick mud.
I would get a gear transmission with shuttle shift, but again that's just my preference.
You'll hate yourself if you don't get a loader. May I suggest getting a quick attach for the bucket. Instead of taking the entire loader off just simply drop the bucket. I would get a set of forks to go with it as well. Best thing in the world for brush.
I have a Bushhog brand 72" finish mower just starting it's 14th mowing season. Once you get used to mowing with it behind you it's a breeze to get up close to things. Be sure to look at the blade tip speed. Don't get one slow than 15,000 fpm.
A 5' or 6' bushhog cutter should work great for you depending on which tractor you get.
I would pass on the scrape blade and get a box scrape instead.

 

[skeets]

Yepper you have just received some sage advice from those 2 catbirds one farms the other is a grounds man ( aka landscaper ) and both have given sound advice,, though my self I would go hydro but that's just me,,
Interesting handle number9 wouldn't be a miner would ya?

 

[Bluegill]

Get the L3800. I love mine!!!

Looks like a beautiful place you have there.

 

[TripleR]

What Skeets said, Eric and Bulldog pretty much covered it.
like many I operate or have operated gear and HST, Industrial and Ag and they all have their place. In a CUT, I prefer HST, but am comfortable with gears on our M8540 and others. Mud and Industrials are not a good setup in my experience especially along places you can slide off of or into. I try to keep my euipment parked when it's muddy. Industrials are certainly not useless in mud, I've used them in it, just Ags are much better.

I would add one thing, a hydraulic top-link is one of the best things I ever got and if you can swing it, a TnT is even better.

I have blades as well as scrapers and use scrapers almost exclusively.

I love Kubota, but always recommend looking at all of the top brands. Good luck.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

You may even want to entertain the thought of looking at the L4600. Sounds like you defiantly have your work cut out for you around the property so might as well get as big as you can now when you're purchasing new. Many of us on here myself included wish we had a tractor just a little bit bigger then what we do now.

 

[number9]

Thanks for the welcome and suggestions guys.

My worry with the AG tires is that they'll tear the grass/yard up when mowing. If not, then I'll go with them probably but then again, I'd prob leave the tractor parked if it's real muddy to keep from tearing the ground up, no matter what tires were on it. How are each in snow? We only get about 1 or 2 decent (6-8") snows a year, but I'd need to plow the driveway when we do.

I called Barlow today and he gave me a quote on a L3800, 4x4, HST, LA524 FEL with quick detach bucket, TaylorWay 5' bush hog and TaylorWay 6' finish deck for $21,250 plus $150 for delivery (left the trailer out to save $2,000). This sound like a good deal? Are the TaylorWay decks any good?

What's a hydraulic top link and a TnT?

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[Bulldog]

Hyd top link is a cylinder that replaces your standard link so that it can be adjusted using a rear remote (in most cases)

tnt - - Top and Tilt, this is normally done as a kit and it basicly a hyd top link and a hyd cylinder the goes to one of the 3 pt arm so that one arm can be lowered and raised seperate from the other arm.

 

[number9]

Hyd top link is a cylinder that replaces your standard link so that it can be adjusted using a rear remote (in most cases)

tnt - - Top and Tilt, this is normally done as a kit and it basicly a hyd top link and a hyd cylinder the goes to one of the 3 pt arm so that one arm can be lowered and raised seperate from the other arm.

Ah......hyd cylinder as the top link on the 3pt hitch, so I can raise the bush hog deck up off the ground while driving back into the land, the when I get to the spot to mow, lower it to the ground. Of course I want that ability, do you just drag it along behind you otherwise (if you don't have that option)?

An the TnT is the above but with a cylinder replacing one of the lower links and allows to each side a bit? How far could you swing it, or a blade, without binding the deck drive shaft or the other lower link of the hitch? I'd imagine not very far with the R4 tires? I heard the guy at the dealer the other day say that with the R4 tires, sometimes the lower links would get into the rear tires depending on what you had hooked up.

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[TripleR]

The hydraulic top link simply allows you to adjust the length of your top link from the seat rather than getting off and doing it by hand. When using a box scraper, you can make angle of attack adjustments on the go to feather your load, dig deeper, spread better etc. On a cutter it will let you raise it higher for transport or when crossing ditches then you extend it to the proper length to get the proper deck angle when cutting.

The side link just allows you to adjust the angle of your scraper or blade to do ditches, grade a smooth spot when your tractor is on a slope, it just does stuff from the seat you normally have to get out of the seat and do by hand.

 

[chim]

Just a couple comments. My L3200 replaced a 10 year old B7500 last year. For our place (under 4 acres, no crops or animals) the move from 21 to 32 HP was huge. The L3200's extra power and size let it breeze through work the B7500 found challenging.

My strong preference is HST. First tractor was gear, next three HST.

Most of the hours on my tractor are finish mowing. Other work always pops up though. Last one was burying a 1,000 gallon LP gas tank. This year there's some major dirt to relocate. R4's, 6' rear finish mower and HST are a good combo for me. I don't get into much mud.

The FEL on my L3200 is so easy to remove and reinstall I have been known to have it on and off a few times in one day. There's no way I'd remove the bucket only and leave the arms in place.

 

[Benhameen]

I have the L3800, and I love it. Mine has the FEL, hst and the R4 tires.

It snowed right after it was delivered and I cleared 6-7 driveways with a 6 ft box blade with no problem. The r4 tires seemed to work fine but I'm sure the AG tires would have hooked up better. They are a compromise, as I plan to buy a 6 ft finish mower to mow my lawn. I've also used mine in the mud without to many issues, they do cake with mud rather quickly but I've yet to get myself stuck.

A couple things that I had found that I don't care for with this tractor; on hilly terrain it's feels a little tippy, but I was used to an older JD that was 7 ft wide. This one is 5 ft wide so there was a bit a learning curve for me. I have yet to do it but I understand that filling the tires with a liquid tire ballast will make it much more stable.

The other issue that I have had is that the fuel filter is in a bad location. I broke it while cleaning up some brush. Well it was actually the filter body, the part that the filter screws into. I was less than $20 at my dealer. I bought a extre one for when it happens again. You might consider doing the same if you plan
to clear some brush and if the dealer isn't all that close by. It looks like you have a pretty good size piece of property and I'd hate to have you post that your new tractor is sitting unattended on the backside of your property.

The 2 issues above are the only things I have had problems with but overall it's an awesome little tractor and i would recommend it.

That's a good looking piece of property, btw.

 

[Mountain Hill]

Just bought a L3800 with LA524 with quick attach, for $19,400, in Canada! Your first price quote seems high to me I'd check around, I know from looking on the net, there are some great package deals in the US. I even considered giving up warranty, because the prices were so good! Trailer, box blade bushhog, tractor, FEL , etc for 22k! As advised by others go larger, L3800 and load the tires, even with box blade on back I'm still a bit light at times.

 

[number9]

So is a TnT something that a dealer could add for me when I buy the tractor, or something I'll need to get and add myself? If both, would it be cheaper to do it myself?

Actually, I probably would want to do it myself, I'd rather put it where I want it than let a dealer hack it on where ever it's easiest and quickest for them to install.

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[MtnViewRanch]

So is a TnT something that a dealer could add for me when I buy the tractor, or something I'll need to get and add myself? If both, would it be cheaper to do it myself?

Actually, I probably would want to do it myself, I'd rather put it where I want it than let a dealer hack it on where ever it's easiest and quickest for them to install.

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Aftermarket will be a lot less $$$ and can end up better than the OEM stuff.

 

[Bulldog]

There's no way I'd remove the bucket only and leave the arms in place.

Just for my own curiousity why do you feel this is bad? I do mine like this on a regular basis.

 

[TripleR]

So is a TnT something that a dealer could add for me when I buy the tractor, or something I'll need to get and add myself? If both, would it be cheaper to do it myself?

Actually, I probably would want to do it myself, I'd rather put it where I want it than let a dealer hack it on where ever it's easiest and quickest for them to install.

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I preferred OEM on my L5740 and got a really good package deal as I have purchased several tractors at my local dealer, but MtnViewRanch knows ore about that stuff as he sells it, so I will defer to his advice. When I get around to it, I will probably be buying a hydraulic top link for my M8540 from him. I already have the remotes on it.

 

[chim]

Just for my own curiousity why do you feel this is bad? I do mine like this on a regular basis.

We have a Montana at work with a QD FEL bucket. I have taken it off, and it easy to do. However, the arms stick out enough to limit how close you can get the tractor to obstacles.

My entire loader comes off as easily as the Montana's bucket. Carrying the extra weight and width of the frame serves no purpose.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I preferred OEM on my L5740 and got a really good package deal as I have purchased several tractors at my local dealer, but MtnViewRanch knows ore about that stuff as he sells it, so I will defer to his advice. When I get around to it, I will probably be buying a hydraulic top link for my M8540 from him. I already have the remotes on it.

The main reason for bringing up the aftermarket stuff, because (typically I recommend to go with OEM valves) the OEM valves on the STD L models are no where as nice as they are on the 40 series or the M models.