Advice on the 2024 LX4020 w/MMM needed

[Hemlock]

Hello everyone,
I know this message is going to be somewhat long but I wanted to explain as much as possible in order to get the information out and attempt to explain the reasoning behind my decisions as well as my questions.
My wife and I would appreciate any and all advice, information, suggestions, questions and criticisms from any of you that may be willing to assist.
I’m new to the Kubota tractor lineup, not tractors as a whole but the 2024 Kubota LX series lineup has very little accessible literature as far as the LX4020 and its acceptable attachments.
I recently traded in my 2021 John Deere 1025R with 136 hours on it. Excellent condition.
As most everyone who’s used the 1025R knows, it has very limited ground clearance, especially with the MMM in place, we wanted something a bit more versatile and with more clearance.
I have basically ordered the 2024 LX4020HSDC with the 545 loader w/quick attach, MSL and medium duty front bucket, BH77 w/mech thumb, 60” MMM, 42” pallet forks, land pride 3pt quick hitch, R14 radial tires w/loaded rears and other options and “creature comforts” our budget would allow. Once we complete this process we want it to be our last. LOL, at least for the foreseeable future anyway.
I am to receive it sometime this week but I am still unsure about the MMM.
I would like to know if the 60” deck comes in different models and/or configurations and if so what model numbers I should be looking for. Based on everyone’s experiences, which MMM models (if more than one) should we avoid, which are the good ones and why. What should we be looking for and, should I consider the 72” drive over deck?
Despite ordering, I still have time to switch out the deck.
We currently mow approximately 4.5 to 5 acres out of our 9 acre field, our house sits basically in the center.
We’re very rural, cannot see the house from the main road, the driveway is gravel and approximately 750 to 800 feet. First 250’ to 300’ is uphill.
The property used to be a corn field and is by no means level, we’ve done quite a bit of work but still have a ways to go yet. A 60” deck mows surprisingly well without gouging, even at the outer edges.
If we don’t keep it mowed as far out away from the house as we do we end up with a surprising amount of critters trying to take up residence. Mostly mice.
We live on 50 acres and burn firewood for heat and cut and split it ourselves. No purchasing it here.

 

[Hemlock]

We have an additional question, if the tractor “VIN” or serial number if you will, on the “2024” LX4020HSDC indicates that the tractor was manufactured in October of 2023, is it still sold as a 2024? If so, are there any tractors out there that have the “VIN” indicating that it was actually manufactured in 2024, not 2023?
if this is the case, are there any differences between the 2023 and 2024 model years, and are the differences significant or more for creature comforts/looks?
The “VIN” of the actual tractor that we are to receive, it currently sits in the dealership assembly shop.
The screenshot of the VIN decoder that has recently been released by the manufacturer as well as a shot of the actual label on the tractor of our most recent purchase is attached.

***DISCLOSURE*** I obtained the Kubota VIN decoding information sheet from a YouTube video recently posted by Messick’s Farm Equipment out of Mount Joy, PA.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day.

Sounds like a nice place you have.

I know this isn’t what you asked, but I wonder you are set on a MMM (vs a rear cutter or finish mower)? I have both and hands down a finish mower is a lot let hassle unless you have some maneuverability issues where running the machine. Just my opinion though.

For playing in and out of the woods I think rear mower would be a lot easier to take on and off as needed.

I am not sure this helps based on your post.

 

[Hemlock]

Good day.

Sounds like a nice place you have.

I know this isn’t what you asked, but I wonder you are set on a MMM (vs a rear cutter or finish mower)? I have both and hands down a finish mower is a lot let hassle unless you have some maneuverability issues where running the machine. Just my opinion though.

For playing in and out of the woods I think rear mower would be a lot easier to take on and off as needed.

I am not sure this helps based on your post.

Good day.

Sounds like a nice place you have.

I know this isn’t what you asked, but I wonder you are set on a MMM (vs a rear cutter or finish mower)? I have both and hands down a finish mower is a lot let hassle unless you have some maneuverability issues where running the machine. Just my opinion though.

For playing in and out of the woods I think rear mower would be a lot easier to take on and off as needed.

I am not sure this helps based on your post.

That’s actually a very viable option, we definitely aren’t going to rule it out. If we are to go that route what brand and model 3 pt mounted mower would you suggest.
I’ve heard the rear discharge mowers do a nicer job.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

That’s actually a very viable option, we definitely aren’t going to rule it out. If we are to go that route what brand and model 3 pt mounted mower would you suggest.
I’ve heard the rear discharge mowers do a nicer job.

I had the same thought. Your picture shows mostly open area. My BIL has mowed his yard for over 30 years with a 5' rear discharge mower, recently bought a replacement. You definitely have the power to run a 6', but I don't know about scalping.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

That’s actually a very viable option, we definitely aren’t going to rule it out. If we are to go that route what brand and model 3 pt mounted mower would you suggest.
I’ve heard the rear discharge mowers do a nicer job.

All I can say is I have a Kubota MMM on a B and I have a Landpride Rear (brush) cutter on my MX. I don’t have any issue with Kubota or LP, so I would start there. I would also mention I think some other users on here are pretty happy with their flail mowers, which if I were buying another mower I’d look into that.

As far as my MMM goes I convinced myself I needed it avoid using a walk behind mower…in hind sight I would have been better off to get the rear mower and keep the walk behind. The area I wanted to mow that a rear cutter could not get to was not that large…anyway I’d definitely prefer the ease of attach / detach on a rear mower. I am sure other brands are good too but I do t have experience with anything other than LP on a brush cutter…but it mows just fine. If doing more lawn than a trail or pasture I’d look at rear finish mowers.

 

[Mitjam]

That’s actually a very viable option, we definitely aren’t going to rule it out. If we are to go that route what brand and model 3 pt mounted mower would you suggest.
I’ve heard the rear discharge mowers do a nicer job.

I have the lx3520 with the landpride 72 inch grooming mowers does a beautiful job very easy to take on and off with quick hitch and if later on you decide to trade or switch tractors for any reason that will work on your next tractor where as the mmm are dedicated for the lx3520 and 4020. I believe the lx2620 has a different mmm

 

[Mitjam]

We have an additional question, if the tractor “VIN” or serial number if you will, on the “2024” LX4020HSDC indicates that the tractor was manufactured in October of 2023, is it still sold as a 2024? If so, are there any tractors out there that have the “VIN” indicating that it was actually manufactured in 2024, not 2023?
if this is the case, are there any differences between the 2023 and 2024 model years, and are the differences significant or more for creature comforts/looks?
The “VIN” of the actual tractor that we are to receive, it currently sits in the dealership assembly shop.
The screenshot of the VIN decoder that has recently been released by the manufacturer as well as a shot of the actual label on the tractor of our most recent purchase is attached.

***DISCLOSURE*** I obtained the Kubota VIN decoding information sheet from a YouTube video recently posted by Messick’s Farm Equipment out of Mount Joy, PA.

Also forgot to mention the 72 mmm on the lx is ground engaging caster wheels which spin 360 so not sure if you ever wish to install wheel spacers are even an option if you go that route

 

[Hemlock]

I had the same thought. Your picture shows mostly open area. My BIL has mowed his yard for over 30 years with a 5' rear discharge mower, recently bought a replacement. You definitely have the power to run a 6', but I don't know about scalping.

Yeah, the field is open for the most part. The more I think about it after reviewing the replies here from others the more I lean towards the 3pt hitch mower.

 

[Hemlock]

I have the lx3520 with the landpride 72 inch grooming mowers does a beautiful job very easy to take on and off with quick hitch and if later on you decide to trade or switch tractors for any reason that will work on your next tractor where as the mmm are dedicated for the lx3520 and 4020. I believe the lx2620 has a different mmm

You make a great point in that the MMM is pretty much model specific. I’m not too crazy about that.
I spoke with the dealer this afternoon and he told me to let him know which way before he writes up the final draft of the sales agreement.
If you had it to do again would you opt for the Land Pride or some other brand like a Kioti 60” or 72” rear discharge?

 

[Hemlock]

Also forgot to mention the 72 mmm on the lx is ground engaging caster wheels which spin 360 so not sure if you ever wish to install wheel spacers are even an option if you go that route

The dealer told me that the 72” wasn’t a very good idea. He said most people he knows regretted the 72 and wished they had the 60” instead. He mentioned that some of the regrets come from the 72 constantly gouging on the outer edges no matter how they set it up.
I would think you could just add spacers.

 

[Mitjam]

You make a great point in that the MMM is pretty much model specific. I’m not too crazy about that.
I spoke with the dealer this afternoon and he told me to let him know which way before he writes up the final draft of the sales agreement.
If you had it to do again would you opt for the Land Pride or some other brand like a Kioti 60” or 72” rear discharge?

I do like landpride but woods and bush hog and farm king all make great products. They are all very comparable. I think I have the fdr1672 it’s the lightest series in a 72 inch and it still weighs 620 lbs. if you have an uneven lawn yes you would get a lot of scalping with any 72 inch mower but I like that it’s quite a bit wider than the tractor so I don’t have to put my tractor in the trees and branches also.

 

[PaulL]

An LX4020 has a lot of HP in a smallish machine. What is the task you're looking at that needs all that HP? Normally it'd be snow blowing or some 3pt implement - it's way more power than you need to run even a 72 inch MMM. Still, if you can afford it, nice machine.

I personally like a MMM. Easier for someone inexperienced to use, easy to see exactly where you're putting the edge of it. And I'm very much in the "bigger is better" school, so I'd go 72 inch if it were me. Your lawn doesn't look too undulating, and the LX mower is ground engaging - it shouldn't scalp the outer edges because it rides on the caster wheels. A B, however, would definitely scalp at that width.

If you get a MMM then definitely get a drive over. I believe it's like the B2601 drive over, not like the BX drive over. The BX drive over is finicky because it auto attaches the drive shaft, and therefore seems to go out of adjustment quickly (or so I hear). The B drive over is just that - you can drive over it instead of having to pull it out sideways. You still attach the drive shaft manually. My B2601 is drive over and it's great.

Having said that, I have a couple of thoughts. A machine with that much HP can run a pretty big rear finish mower. You could arguably go to a batwing or a wider than 6 foot (72 inch) mower. If your ground isn't as smooth as it looks it's hard to mow fast. But you can mow wide, which still gets the job done quickly. If you're heading in that direction then go to a 3ph mounted mower so you can go wider than 72 inch. Probably something that contour follows (batwing or similar).

Also, when you're mowing a lot of lawn, particularly in spring, how often are you going to mow? I tend to mow twice a week, because I don't like clippings but I also don't like having a bagger. I can mow twice a week without bagging, if I mow once a week or less often I get hay.

If you're not mowing frequently and your lawns get long, you probably want rear discharge. It doesn't give windrows like a side discharge does, although it can still look a bit like hay. You can't really get rear discharge on a MMM I think, so you'll want a RFM if you're looking for rear discharge.

Last question - do you ever rough mow? Would you look at a flail? Some people love them, and they're a great compromise if you need to do both lawn and pasture.

You don't mention other tasks, but you're spending a fair amount of money. Are you sure you don't want a bigger but less expensive tractor, and a dedicated mower? I'd personally love an F, and that'd monster an LX for mowing capability.

Finally, are you sure on loaded rears? They're not recommended with a backhoe (some story perhaps about being hard on the lift outriggers), but I usually wouldn't recommend them for a machine that does a lot of mowing, they're hard on the lawn. You can ballast in other ways that are removable. Your land looks reasonably flat, so ballast would mostly be for loader use? The backhoe is already a very good counterweight....as is a ballast box or a rear blade or mower.

 

[chim]

Rear mowers have been my favorite since 1992. Had 5', 6' and 7-1/2' as the tractors got larger. Only the 7-1/2' deck is rear discharge and I like it better than the side discharge. Tractors all had loaded rear R4 tires since 2002. The RFM's have 4 wheels and neither scalp nor dig in at the ends.

EDIT TO ADD: I haven't used a walk-behind mower since 1989. With a little care and proper mulch placement I get by with a string trimmer every few mowings.

 

[mcmxi]

users on here are pretty happy with their flail mowers, which if I were buying another mower I’d look into that.

If doing more lawn than a trail or pasture I’d look at rear finish mowers.

Agree and agree. I used a BX25D with MMM for five years and I pretty much hated it for myriad reasons with the awful task of getting it on an off being at the top of the list. On one occasion I smashed my big toe with that bloody thing! It was such a pain to move and store too.

These days I have a flail, rotary cutter and folding rotary cutter and all is good. If I had or wanted a nice lawn I'd probably have a rear finish mower too. Pulling a cutter around on the draw bar or 3-point is the way to go, in my world at least.

 

[Hemlock]

An LX4020 has a lot of HP in a smallish machine. What is the task you're looking at that needs all that HP? Normally it'd be snow blowing or some 3pt implement - it's way more power than you need to run even a 72 inch MMM. Still, if you can afford it, nice machine.

I personally like a MMM. Easier for someone inexperienced to use, easy to see exactly where you're putting the edge of it. And I'm very much in the "bigger is better" school, so I'd go 72 inch if it were me. Your lawn doesn't look too undulating, and the LX mower is ground engaging - it shouldn't scalp the outer edges because it rides on the caster wheels. A B, however, would definitely scalp at that width.

If you get a MMM then definitely get a drive over. I believe it's like the B2601 drive over, not like the BX drive over. The BX drive over is finicky because it auto attaches the drive shaft, and therefore seems to go out of adjustment quickly (or so I hear). The B drive over is just that - you can drive over it instead of having to pull it out sideways. You still attach the drive shaft manually. My B2601 is drive over and it's great.

Having said that, I have a couple of thoughts. A machine with that much HP can run a pretty big rear finish mower. You could arguably go to a batwing or a wider than 6 foot (72 inch) mower. If your ground isn't as smooth as it looks it's hard to mow fast. But you can mow wide, which still gets the job done quickly. If you're heading in that direction then go to a 3ph mounted mower so you can go wider than 72 inch. Probably something that contour follows (batwing or similar).

Also, when you're mowing a lot of lawn, particularly in spring, how often are you going to mow? I tend to mow twice a week, because I don't like clippings but I also don't like having a bagger. I can mow twice a week without bagging, if I mow once a week or less often I get hay.

If you're not mowing frequently and your lawns get long, you probably want rear discharge. It doesn't give windrows like a side discharge does, although it can still look a bit like hay. You can't really get rear discharge on a MMM I think, so you'll want a RFM if you're looking for rear discharge.

Last question - do you ever rough mow? Would you look at a flail? Some people love them, and they're a great compromise if you need to do both lawn and pasture.

You don't mention other tasks, but you're spending a fair amount of money. Are you sure you don't want a bigger but less expensive tractor, and a dedicated mower? I'd personally love an F, and that'd monster an LX for mowing capability.

Finally, are you sure on loaded rears? They're not recommended with a backhoe (some story perhaps about being hard on the lift outriggers), but I usually wouldn't recommend them for a machine that does a lot of mowing, they're hard on the lawn. You can ballast in other ways that are removable. Your land looks reasonably flat, so ballast would mostly be for loader use? The backhoe is already a very good counterweight....as is a ballast box or a rear blade or mower.

An LX4020 has a lot of HP in a smallish machine. What is the task you're looking at that needs all that HP? Normally it'd be snow blowing or some 3pt implement - it's way more power than you need to run even a 72 inch MMM. Still, if you can afford it, nice machine.

I personally like a MMM. Easier for someone inexperienced to use, easy to see exactly where you're putting the edge of it. And I'm very much in the "bigger is better" school, so I'd go 72 inch if it were me. Your lawn doesn't look too undulating, and the LX mower is ground engaging - it shouldn't scalp the outer edges because it rides on the caster wheels. A B, however, would definitely scalp at that width.

If you get a MMM then definitely get a drive over. I believe it's like the B2601 drive over, not like the BX drive over. The BX drive over is finicky because it auto attaches the drive shaft, and therefore seems to go out of adjustment quickly (or so I hear). The B drive over is just that - you can drive over it instead of having to pull it out sideways. You still attach the drive shaft manually. My B2601 is drive over and it's great.

Having said that, I have a couple of thoughts. A machine with that much HP can run a pretty big rear finish mower. You could arguably go to a batwing or a wider than 6 foot (72 inch) mower. If your ground isn't as smooth as it looks it's hard to mow fast. But you can mow wide, which still gets the job done quickly. If you're heading in that direction then go to a 3ph mounted mower so you can go wider than 72 inch. Probably something that contour follows (batwing or similar).

Also, when you're mowing a lot of lawn, particularly in spring, how often are you going to mow? I tend to mow twice a week, because I don't like clippings but I also don't like having a bagger. I can mow twice a week without bagging, if I mow once a week or less often I get hay.

If you're not mowing frequently and your lawns get long, you probably want rear discharge. It doesn't give windrows like a side discharge does, although it can still look a bit like hay. You can't really get rear discharge on a MMM I think, so you'll want a RFM if you're looking for rear discharge.

Last question - do you ever rough mow? Would you look at a flail? Some people love them, and they're a great compromise if you need to do both lawn and pasture.

You don't mention other tasks, but you're spending a fair amount of money. Are you sure you don't want a bigger but less expensive tractor, and a dedicated mower? I'd personally love an F, and that'd monster an LX for mowing capability.

Finally, are you sure on loaded rears? They're not recommended with a backhoe (some story perhaps about being hard on the lift outriggers), but I usually wouldn't recommend them for a machine that does a lot of mowing, they're hard on the lawn. You can ballast in other ways that are removable. Your land looks reasonably flat, so ballast would mostly be for loader use? The backhoe is already a very good counterweight....as is a ballast box or a rear blade or mower.

Thanks for the reply and all of the great information and advice.
I apologize for the late response, I shouldn’t share too much about what’s going on here on a personal level, besides my wife would probably put me out in the north 40 if I did.
The issue is I don’t want anyone here to think they’re putting in their hard earned advice and it’s going unnoticed and/or unappreciated.
It may take me a couple of days or so but I definitely am checking in and I want everyone to know that everything everyone shares here is definitely appreciated.
We just found out last week that my wife has cancer in her “upper chest” area and abdominal.
The “upper chest, both sides” was first, two days later is when we got the news for her abdomen.
I say “upper chest” and abdomen because like I said, I don’t want to get too specific or share too much to people we don’t know. But, I wanted to share just enough so that everyone understands the delays in my responses. She is already scheduled for surgery for the third week of this month.
That being said, we have received the tractor, the 545 loader, 60” MMM, and the backhoe.
Based on what everyone here has said, I tried to convince the dealer that the 72” deck might work out with little to no issues. His response was that he knows for a fact that I would just end up being unhappy with it and would want to swap it out for the 60” at a later date but he wouldn’t be able to offer me much for it in used condition.
He said for us to get the 60” and try it out, he positive we’re going to be much happier with it.
Not really sure what the incentive is here for him to push the 60 over the 72.
I did have the rears loaded with rim guard, as for the tires I opted for the R14s.
We have about 9 acres, of which we mow around 4 1/2 to 5.
We have 50 acres here and we burn firewood in a Hearthstone wood stove for our primary heat with a propane monitor for backup or if we go out of town for any length of time.
We harvest the wood ourselves, fell the trees, haul them out, cut and split. We take around 5 to 6 cords a year. We have a 3 pt hitch Tajfun logging winch for the tractor.
We have an approximately 750 to 800 foot driveway that we maintain.
In all we have a significant amount of uses that the 1025R was not up for the task, it’s a great little tractor but just too small, light and has very low ground clearance.
It has the loader, backhoe, MMM, and plow blade as well as far too many extras to write out.
The need for a larger tractor is definitely here, but in the end I’m pretty sure I purchased the wrong mower deck. In fact, I feel pretty uneasy about it. All in all though everything else seems okay. Not sure I got the best deal but the dealership has a good reputation and is within 30 minutes of home.

 

[Hemlock]

Rear mowers have been my favorite since 1992. Had 5', 6' and 7-1/2' as the tractors got larger. Only the 7-1/2' deck is rear discharge and I like it better than the side discharge. Tractors all had loaded rear R4 tires since 2002. The RFM's have 4 wheels and neither scalp nor dig in at the ends.

EDIT TO ADD: I haven't used a walk-behind mower since 1989. With a little care and proper mulch placement I get by with a string trimmer every few mowings.

I hear what you’re saying, I’ve looked up the 3pt hitch mowers and noticed that the rear discharge leaves a flatter lawn in the sense that there are no windrows like what’s left behind when using the side discharge, especially if you go more than a week between mowings.
We’ve decided to wait until early summer of this upcoming year to look at purchasing the 3pt mower. That gives us time to research them a little closer as well.

 

[PaulL]

Sorry to hear about your wife. These things have a pretty good survival rate these days though.

The 60 inch deck will be fine. I'd use it for a while and see how you go. My B2601 has a 60 inch deck, and it's fine. It's just that I'm in the "more is better" camp, and while the biggest deck you can get on the B2601 is 60 inch, on the LX you can get the 72. But if you've bought the 60 inch, then use it. No point spending money on a RFM unless you need one.

The MMM on the B and LX is pretty heavy duty. You can treat them quite mean without them breaking. I've mowed down waist high brush with mine - nothing too thick (half inch or less), but I push it down in front of me with the loader (and that also checks there's nothing solid in there), and just mow over it. I've never damaged the deck body, and I figure I can replace spindles and blades if I have to. I've never damaged a spindle (so far), I do go through blades because I mow roadside and it picks up gravel sometimes.

I think you'll be very happy, although you'll need to find some new attachments that use all that HP. It'll be hardly working driving a 60 inch mower.

I always mow with the loader off. Loaders are easy to take off, and the machine feels like a Ferrari mowing without it compared to mowing with it - the loader puts a lot of weight on the front wheels and makes the machine feel cumbersome. (Also mowing with the loader on usually ends up with me hitting things with the loader).

 

[Hemlock]

Sorry to hear about your wife. These things have a pretty good survival rate these days though.

The 60 inch deck will be fine. I'd use it for a while and see how you go. My B2601 has a 60 inch deck, and it's fine. It's just that I'm in the "more is better" camp, and while the biggest deck you can get on the B2601 is 60 inch, on the LX you can get the 72. But if you've bought the 60 inch, then use it. No point spending money on a RFM unless you need one.

The MMM on the B and LX is pretty heavy duty. You can treat them quite mean without them breaking. I've mowed down waist high brush with mine - nothing too thick (half inch or less), but I push it down in front of me with the loader (and that also checks there's nothing solid in there), and just mow over it. I've never damaged the deck body, and I figure I can replace spindles and blades if I have to. I've never damaged a spindle (so far), I do go through blades because I mow roadside and it picks up gravel sometimes.

I think you'll be very happy, although you'll need to find some new attachments that use all that HP. It'll be hardly working driving a 60 inch mower.

I always mow with the loader off. Loaders are easy to take off, and the machine feels like a Ferrari mowing without it compared to mowing with it - the loader puts a lot of weight on the front wheels and makes the machine feel cumbersome. (Also mowing with the loader on usually ends up with me hitting things with the loader).

Thank you for the support for my wife’s current situation, we appreciate it!
We hadn’t done much research on her situation in the past, just on the type of cancer her sister has with her thyroid. That has changed drastically since her diagnosis,
I agree, I had historically done everything with the loader still attached, to include mowing.
It wasn’t until the last mowing I had done with the 1025R a couple of months ago that I had to remove the front loader so I could have full access to the engine compartment. (it was the first and only time I had taken it off since purchasing)
Once again, it was time to mow, I came out, looked at the loader and decided to leave it off and just mow.
I to have it on because we have a wood line that surrounds the field on 3 sides, when the winds kick up it’s pretty frequent that we get branches and debris sometimes 30 or more feet into the grass. And, for some strange reason, rocks tend to migrate, or grow around here. I’m sure they do where you are as well.
When I come this stuff it I just stop and throw it in the bucket, it’s pretty handy in that sense.
Anyway, I ended up mowing without the loader and for a second there, I thought the steering system had malfunctioned, the steering felt like the front end was in the air, almost no resistance.
Many different scenarios went through my mind in a hurry, the extra weight, the steering linkages, the hydraulics for the steering, etc. all had to work harder just because I had gotten complacent, not to mention, maybe a bit “lazier”. I knew then that I was going to remove it whenever I had to mow.

 

[PaulL]

Pictures when you get it!!