G1800 water pump removal
- Thread starter Sparkycd56
- Start date
I'm preparing to do this on my G1900 but the rest of your post does not appear for me. Can it be done with the radiator in place? If not, then to remove it, some say pull the engine, some say pull the dash. What approach do you suggest?
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I have no direct knowledge of your machine, but "in general" I fid it much easier/safer to remove a radiator when replacing a water pump.
One slip up and "bam" ....... something hits the radiator and put a hole in it.
I am quite sure there are exceptions to my "rule".
Someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly I'm sure.
Good luck either way.
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Thank you! I managed to extract the pump+pulley+fan assembly together without removing the engine or radiator by detaching the coolant overflow reservoir, unbolting the fan shroud so it can tip forward, and unbolting the comp panel from the tractor frame so the radiator can tip rearward enough for the assembly to squeeze through. Some of the 10mm bolts on the pump housing and lower hose clamp were difficult to access, so fingers crossed that reinstallation goes smoothly (pump is on order)!
Edited to add photos.
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take the engine off so it can be done properly. A LOT easier!!
address the drive shaft coupling/yoke and u-joints if needed while the engine is off too; also a lot easier with it off than trying to do it otherwise.
address the drive shaft coupling/yoke and u-joints if needed while the engine is off too; also a lot easier with it off than trying to do it otherwise.
Perhaps. So far this approach seems easier, but I'll find out soon enough!
That certainly was not the case on my G1900.
Pretty sure we couldn't get them out at the shop without removing the engine, which is a 30 minute job. Crossmember in the way as I remember. I've had about a dozen of them over the years. I just pull the motor out, gives me a good reason to give the mower a good cleaning in the area as well. And replace the water pump and hoses. That way the new owner will have a reliable machine free from worry of those parts failing. My mom has the only one I have left, she likes it but it needs power steering. I tried to put an EPS from a 4 wheeler on it but there just isn't enough room to fit the EPS assembly under the dash, at least not without major surgery which I wasn't willing to do. Hers is 2ws, the 4ws models steer a lot easier.
Edit: I think you may have the old style, has a pin in the rear yoke. The yoke is shorter. The newer style has a pinch bolt that clamps the yoke to the transmission splined shaft. That style yoke is longer and cannot be removed without moving the transmission or engine, and moving the engine is a lot easier.
Edit: I think you may have the old style, has a pin in the rear yoke. The yoke is shorter. The newer style has a pinch bolt that clamps the yoke to the transmission splined shaft. That style yoke is longer and cannot be removed without moving the transmission or engine, and moving the engine is a lot easier.
It took me at least that long to extract the assembly the way I described. Perhaps pulling the engine is easier than I think, but it's admittedly intimidating (I suppose my L3710 bucket could serve as the hoist; I have no shop, just a dirt floor barn). If squeezing the new assembly in there proves too difficult, then I may go that route, though the radiator mounting bracket bolts seem relatively accessible now...
I certainly appreciate your input and will update this thread as the project progresses.
I certainly appreciate your input and will update this thread as the project progresses.
Success! Reassembly presented no real challenges and the tractor was up and running within an hour with no leaks apparent through full operating temperature. Tackling other maintenance at the same time certainly would have been easier with the engine out and radiator removed, but for replacing only the water pump, I will not hesitate to employ this approach again (if this inexpensive INPOST water pump fails prematurely, then I will rebuild the original OEM pump, which lasted over 2150 hours before weeping).
Would need an engine hoist to pull it I assume? Though, this is judging from my G2160. Why would simply yanking the radiator be very hard? When I was installing my gauges it didn't look too difficult (though here too I could be so wrong) 
In some ways just to do a REALLY deep cleaning, I'd almost like to rent a hoist and yank that little diesel out. Would make it a lot easier to either replace the oil pan or rethread it. Maybe I'd even proactively replace water and oil pumps. Just for the Halibut.
In some ways just to do a REALLY deep cleaning, I'd almost like to rent a hoist and yank that little diesel out. Would make it a lot easier to either replace the oil pan or rethread it. Maybe I'd even proactively replace water and oil pumps. Just for the Halibut.