Operating B7100 with a worn clutch

[chetcromer]

Hi all,

I'm relatively new here because I just bought my first Kubota a couple weeks ago. The setup is great, B7100 4WD with a loader and Woods finish mower. The one issue is what we believe to be a worn out bearing on the clutch - when in neutral with the clutch disengaged (pedal pressed), it growls like a beast (not sure that's the technical term, but it seems to be a distinctive sound for clutch issues). I have a guy set up to help me split the tractor and replace the bearing (along with the pressure plate and disk while we're in there) but that's a week or two away.

It is BEAUTIFUL outside though! The grass is starting to grow, and I'm dying to try this thing out. Will I cause damage to anything other than the clutch parts I'll soon be repairing if I throw the thing into gear and take it for a spin around the yard (just about 2 acres to mow at this point)? The growling noise is actually diminishing a bit as I've moved the tractor around a bit over the last week, so I wonder if it accumulated some rust or something and is actually not as bad as it sounds.

So yeah... I really want to try out the mower, but don't want to do damage to the transmission or engine or anything else in the process. Shifting is working pretty clean, has driven fine as I've moved it around the barn and took for a spin around the yard in all 6 gears... but I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks!

 

[Piker]

Hi all,

I'm relatively new here because I just bought my first Kubota a couple weeks ago. The setup is great, B7100 4WD with a loader and Woods finish mower. The one issue is what we believe to be a worn out bearing on the clutch - when in neutral with the clutch disengaged (pedal pressed), it growls like a beast (not sure that's the technical term, but it seems to be a distinctive sound for clutch issues). I have a guy set up to help me split the tractor and replace the bearing (along with the pressure plate and disk while we're in there) but that's a week or two away.

It is BEAUTIFUL outside though! The grass is starting to grow, and I'm dying to try this thing out. Will I cause damage to anything other than the clutch parts I'll soon be repairing if I throw the thing into gear and take it for a spin around the yard (just about 2 acres to mow at this point)? The growling noise is actually diminishing a bit as I've moved the tractor around a bit over the last week, so I wonder if it accumulated some rust or something and is actually not as bad as it sounds.

So yeah... I really want to try out the mower, but don't want to do damage to the transmission or engine or anything else in the process. Shifting is working pretty clean, has driven fine as I've moved it around the barn and took for a spin around the yard in all 6 gears... but I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks!

Drive 'er! Throwout bearing is under load & rotating only when the pedal is depressed to change gears. Won't hurt a thing.

 

[seanbarr]

Make sure there's fluids!!!

 

[chetcromer]

Thanks guys! I'll double check all fluids and give it a try... make sure I'm not missing anything here:

1. engine oil.
2. transmission oil.
3. fuel
4. coolant.

any other fluids in this thing? I know there's hydraulic fluid for the loader, but it's working fine and not leaking.

 

[chetcromer]

By the way, I know you guys like pics... so here's my new workhorse. Pretty good shape for a 33 year old machine, don't you think?

 

[Piker]

By the way, I know you guys like pics... so here's my new workhorse. Pretty good shape for a 33 year old machine, don't you think?

Holy Crap! Split my 1980 B7100 last summer to replace the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing & painted chassis/tin while I was waiting parts - looked way worse than yours. Looks awesome now & had new decals made also.

 

[freewheel3]

Looks real good. Its nice to see it parked inside. Time almost stands still as soon as something is under a roof. I shake my head when I see people leaving stuff sit outside year after year.

 

[James Williams]

The steering gear box fluid is very important on these machines as parts are very hard to come by and very expensive if you can find them. Also couldn't hurt to change fluid in all three gearboxes in front axle. I put 80-90 weight gear oil in mine. Others may have different opinions.

There is a grease zerk in the clutch system. It can be accessed through a hole on the left side right under the tool box. Just use a little bit.

There is a drain hole just above the steering gear box that can get plugged up. Stick something into it every once in a while to make sure it is clear.

James

 

[seanbarr]

Pretty much the first order of business is to get yourself a copy of the owners/operating manual and the service manual. It's pretty much worthless unless you get those two.

The second order of business is change all of the fluids (even the steering box) and go over everything. Make a note of what needs to be serviced, repaired, replaced, etc. I did that first thing with my tractor that I stole, err brought and it's pretty much complete save for the steering box which I'm waiting for a new steering shaft assembly as mine still "clunks" when steering.

Servicing the hydraulics is relatively simple, a novice could do it easily. If your 3 point slowly drops, new seals are usually the fix and is not difficult to do at all. My FEL wouldn't pick up the front of the tractor so new cylinder seals were in order and bam, made a difference. Oh, I'll bet that there will be crud behind the FEL strainer. If you don't know where that is, time to start reading and get the FEL manual as well.

In all, this forum is invaluable! Don't forget to get a bowl of popcorn and peruse the articles sections. It's a gold mine of information that you will appreciate and is fun to learn.

It's a great machine to work on if you're mechanically inclined!

 

[kubotasam]

If when you change the steering box fluid it looks at all contaminated or has water in it I would suggest removing and disassembly of the box. As seanbarr said the parts are expensive.

 

[Sledge]

The steering gear box fluid is very important on these machines as parts are very hard to come by and very expensive if you can find them. Also couldn't hurt to change fluid in all three gearboxes in front axle. I put 80-90 weight gear oil in mine. Others may have different opinions.

There is a grease zerk in the clutch system. It can be accessed through a hole on the left side right under the tool box. Just use a little bit.

There is a drain hole just above the steering gear box that can get plugged up. Stick something into it every once in a while to make sure it is clear.

James

Thanks. Steering box fluid change isn't mentioned in the owner's manual I have for the B7100. Fortunately I managed to get the workshop manual and you can work it out from there.
Damn, I thought I'd finished

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I just understand why you would want to purposely drive it around knowing there's a problem with the clutch? Trust me I know the itch you get when you want to play with a new toy but patients does have a virtue. Last thing you need is to be on the back 40 of the 2 acre plot of land you own and the clutch completely goes out on you and you're no where near the shed to fix it.

That's when you find yourself up Shitts Creek without a paddle and no way to gimp it back to the barn to fix it.

 

[chetcromer]

Just got the B7100 back today, with the new clutch and bearing it's like a BRAND-NEW-new-to-me machine. What a difference!

No more roaring when holding in the clutch out of gear, no more grinding when shifting gears with the throttle above idle.

In the meantime I found owners and service manual for my mower and finish mower. Got new tranny fluid while she was in the shop so now just going to check the others and away we go.

 

[chetcromer]

Keeping this hear as it's related to my original post, but after about 2 hours of use (after checking / changing fluids), the roar is starting to come back when holding the clutch in, and the clutch pedal itself has to be pushed a lot further / harder to get it disengaged.

Could I have a pedal issue?

 

[freewheel3]

Keeping this hear as it's related to my original post, but after about 2 hours of use (after checking / changing fluids), the roar is starting to come back when holding the clutch in, and the clutch pedal itself has to be pushed a lot further / harder to get it disengaged.

Could I have a pedal issue?

I doubt its a pedal issue. Did they replace clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing when it was in the shop?

 

[chetcromer]

I doubt its a pedal issue. Did they replace clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing when it was in the shop?

Yep. Those three things. Said the bearing needed the replacement, but that the clutch disk itself was is decent shape (they replaced it anyways and I'm keeping the original for a spare part should I need it).

 

[chetcromer]

Getting back to this after a week of family and friends in town.

There is a LOT of play in the clutch pedal - more than there was when I got it back from the shop. I'm going to re-grease the bearing and probably shoot a video of the pedal movement - it's like nothing is even engaging until it's pressed all the way down, and then it only engages a little bit. I basically have to idle the tractor and then shifting is the same with the clutch pedal pushed as when I don't have it pushed at all. Once in gear, pushing the clutch will not allow the tractor to come to a complete stop (i.e. neutral) without the assistance of the break or shifting back into neutral gear.

Would a video help you help me?

I know this is from another site, but I'm thinking my problem may be something like this:
http://www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/view_all.cgi?bd=kubota&msg=25647

Or here:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2469

Thoughts?

 

[rednecklimo85]

Before going to crazy did you try and adjust the pedal? Worth trying it and not overlooking something simple before separating it again.