Error code 20, plus screen reads “Depress Clutch”

[Schmitty]

From the LXX40-3 WSM:
-Clutch is closed when depressed sufficiently far.
-Seat switch is closed when someone is in the seat.
-Seat tilt circuit is open when the seat is not tilted.
-PTO circuit is closed when the PTO switch is off.
-HST pedal sensor must be centered/neutral.
Starting requires only clutch (depressed.on), PTO (off), HST pedal sensor (in neutral), and OPC requirements.

I'd recommend getting a copy of the appropriate WSM. A good way to tell if you have the L3240-1 or L3240-3 is the PTO switch. The -1 has a lever, the -3 has this knob:

When I had multiple simultaneous issues with the clutch depress and PTO switch I took off the seat, seat pan, and dash cowling, then safely shorted the seat switch and hot-wired to the ECU to confirm there were issues with old wires and confirm the clutch bracket was bent. Those issues were addressed and the safeties were reenabled with better-than-factory wiring.

 

[BudGoat]

Do you have an L3240-1 or L3240-3 HST? Here is the ERROR-20 text from the LXX40-3 WSM:
View attachment 132007

And the wiring diagram:
View attachment 132008

The ERROR-20 communication issue is something I've not had to troubleshoot and is concerning. I have an LXX40-1 WSM, too, if needed. Can you jump all the way to the ECU, i.e. with the seat and seat pan out of the way?

Where is the ECU?

 

[BudGoat]

Do you have an L3240-1 or L3240-3 HST? Here is the ERROR-20 text from the LXX40-3 WSM:
View attachment 132007

And the wiring diagram:
View attachment 132008

The ERROR-20 communication issue is something I've not had to troubleshoot and is concerning. I have an LXX40-1 WSM, too, if needed. Can you jump all the way to the ECU, i.e. with the seat and seat pan out of the way?

I have an HST. Error 20 explaination reads out odd. Does the HST pedal need to be in neutral to start the engine?

 

[BudGoat]

W

From the LXX40-3 WSM:
-Clutch is closed when depressed sufficiently far.
-Seat switch is closed when someone is in the seat.
-Seat tilt circuit is open when the seat is not tilted.
-PTO circuit is closed when the PTO switch is off.
-HST pedal sensor must be centered/neutral.
Starting requires only clutch (depressed.on), PTO (off), HST pedal sensor (in neutral), and OPC requirements.

I'd recommend getting a copy of the appropriate WSM. A good way to tell if you have the L3240-1 or L3240-3 is the PTO switch. The -1 has a lever, the -3 has this knob:

View attachment 132072

When I had multiple simultaneous issues with the clutch depress and PTO switch I took off the seat, seat pan, and dash cowling, then safely shorted the seat switch and hot-wired to the ECU to confirm there were issues with old wires and confirm the clutch bracket was bent. Those issues were addressed and the safeties were reenabled with better-than-factory wiring.

What is “OPC”?

 

[D2Cat]

OPC = operator presence controller.

 

[Russell King]

I have an HST. Error 20 explaination reads out odd. Does the HST pedal need to be in neutral to start the engine?

Yes I think so

 

[D2Cat]

Clutch needs to be completely depressed. not partway...totally. HST range does not matter, neutral or in any gear is fine.

 

[Schmitty]

Where is the ECU?

The ECU is under the seat pan, to the left when seated. If it's easier you can get to it by taking the left fender off...it's not easier for me, however.

 

[BudGoat]

T

From the LXX40-3 WSM:
-Clutch is closed when depressed sufficiently far.
-Seat switch is closed when someone is in the seat.
-Seat tilt circuit is open when the seat is not tilted.
-PTO circuit is closed when the PTO switch is off.
-HST pedal sensor must be centered/neutral.
Starting requires only clutch (depressed.on), PTO (off), HST pedal sensor (in neutral), and OPC requirements.

I'd recommend getting a copy of the appropriate WSM. A good way to tell if you have the L3240-1 or L3240-3 is the PTO switch. The -1 has a lever, the -3 has this knob:

View attachment 132072

When I had multiple simultaneous issues with the clutch depress and PTO switch I took off the seat, seat pan, and dash cowling, then safely shorted the seat switch and hot-wired to the ECU to confirm there were issues with old wires and confirm the clutch bracket was bent. Those issues were addressed and the safeties were reenabled with better-than-factory wiring.

Thank you the narrative of what switches are open or closed is most helpful.

I had the seat off, a very heavy aftermarket chair. Just put it back on! Arrrgh!

I will pull the seat off and take off the pan to access the ECU to jump and trouble shoot.

still working on it!

thank you

 

[BudGoat]

Clutch needs to be completely depressed. not partway...totally. HST range does not matter, neutral or in any gear is fine.

Thank you. Time saver tips!

 

[BudGoat]

All

update:

i removed a battery cable (-). And unplugged the wire on the positive cable to the main power. Went to town 3 hours. Returned, hooked all back up and still no crank front key and error codes on screen still “error 20, depresse clutch and pto”

pull all the jumper wires shorting across the safety switch plugs and tried again. Still no go.

Pulled the seat and platform off to get at the ECU. Started raining again , so tomorrow will pull ECU plug off and test for voltage from the engine and instrument panel.

tried to figure out the four relays mounted under the instrument panel with no luck. My colored wiring diagram was most likely off. I will look in my WSM to see if colors differ.

 

[Dustball]

I wouldn't bother with the relays.

If you turned the key to the run position then jumped the starter, will the engine run? Make sure you have your parking brake on or ensure that the tractor won't roll on you when you do this test.

 

[BudGoat]

I wouldn't bother with the relays.

If you turned the key to the run position then jumped the starter, will the engine run? Make sure you have your parking brake on or ensure that the tractor won't roll on you when you do this test.

I tried all that a couple times with no start. I will give it another try today as maybe the injectors were not bled out enough to start before. The whole reason it is stuck in a steep hillside is that I ran it out of fuel with a faulty fuel gauge.

if it does not start this time, what is next.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If it's not already, somehow move it to level ground
Recharge the battery...
Then bleed the injectors,doing what the book says
usually you purge air starting at the tank, then filters, then pump.
Take a break

Now turn the key and see if it starts. If the starter doesn't spin over, 'bypass' and jump the starter to get engine to turn over.
hopefully others who have your model tractor can reply.

 

[ejb11235]

If it's not already, somehow move it to level ground
Recharge the battery...
Then bleed the injectors,doing what the book says
usually you purge air starting at the tank, then filters, then pump.
Take a break

Now turn the key and see if it starts. If the starter doesn't spin over, 'bypass' and jump the starter to get engine to turn over.
hopefully others who have your model tractor can reply.

I think this is good "let's get back to basics" advice. It seems odd that running out of fuel ends up turning into an electrical problem.

 

[DustyRusty]

I tried all that a couple times with no start. I will give it another try today as maybe the injectors were not bled out enough to start before. The whole reason it is stuck in a steep hillside is that I ran it out of fuel with a faulty fuel gauge.

if it does not start this time, what is next.

Find someone with a large enough machine to tow your machine back to the home/garage where you can work on it properly. Running out of fuel doesn't cause electrical problems. Over 30 posts on two threads before you finally divulge the true cause of the tractor not running while we all play 20 questions in an attempt to help you find the cause. This is tantamount to "withholding evidence"!

 

[BudGoat]

Find someone with a large enough machine to tow your machine back to the home/garage where you can work on it properly. Running out of fuel doesn't cause electrical problems. Over 30 posts on two threads before you finally divulge the true cause of the tractor not running while we all play 20 questions in an attempt to help you find the cause. This is tantamount to "withholding evidence"!

Find someone with a large enough machine to tow your machine back to the home/garage where you can work on it properly. Running out of fuel doesn't cause electrical problems. Over 30 posts on two threads before you finally divulge the true cause of the tractor not running while we all play 20 questions in an attempt to help you find the cause. This is tantamount to "withholding evidence"!

I am considering towing it back to the shop. I have the means here. Thank you for the suggestion.

And so you seem to have found the true cause? What is your assessment of the true cause? No fuel? Running out of fuel was the start. Like you I believe “running out of fuel doesn’t cause electrical problems.” My request for assistance began after I restored the fuel and the battery and cable, but then it would not crank but a moment to bleed the injectors. From then on it was an electrical issue. With odd error codes I have never seen before. In the swapping out of the battery it might have reset or erased some function. My operators manual says the Error-20 code indicates a miscommunication between the intelli-panel and the ECU. However I have included a photo of that error-20 page here and it is in the GST section in the manual, not the HST section. So has my tractor been affected with a transgender virus and now wants to identify as a GST?

No one is withholding evidence here. Many contributors and many opinions given. Most are very generous and professional. And a couple emotional.

I probably found the issue. I will share it by PM with the generous and professional responders.

Find someone with a large enough machine to tow your machine back to the home/garage where you can work on it properly. Running out of fuel doesn't cause electrical problems. Over 30 posts on two threads before you finally divulge the true cause of the tractor not running while we all play 20 questions in an attempt to help you find the cause. This is tantamount to "withholding evidence"!

 

[ejb11235]

Just curious ... how did you conclude that you had run out of fuel in the first place?

 

[BudGoat]

I am considering towing it back to the shop. I have the means here. Thank you for the suggestion.

And so you seem to have found the true cause? What is your assessment of the true cause? No fuel? Running out of fuel was the start. Like you I believe “running out of fuel doesn’t cause electrical problems.” My request for assistance began after I restored the fuel and the battery and cable, but then it would not crank but a moment to bleed the injectors. From then on it was an electrical issue. With odd error codes I have never seen before. In the swapping out of the battery it might have reset or erased some function. My operators manual says the Error-20 code indicates a miscommunication between the intelli-panel and the ECU. However I have included a photo of that error-20 page here and it is in the GST section in the manual, not the HST section. So has my tractor been affected with a transgender virus and now wants to identify as a GST?

No one is withholding evidence here. Many contributors and many opinions given. Most are very generous and professional. And a couple emotional.

I probably found the issue. I will share it by PM with the generous and professional responders.




View attachment 132642

Dusty Rusty

I am considering towing it back to the shop. I have the means here. Thank you for the suggestion.

And so you seem to have found the true cause? What is your assessment of the true cause? No fuel? Running out of fuel was the start. Like you I believe “running out of fuel doesn’t cause electrical problems.” My request for assistance began after I restored the fuel and the battery and cable, but then it would not crank but a moment to bleed the injectors. From then on it was an electrical issue. With odd error codes I have never seen before. In the swapping out of the battery it might have reset or erased some function. My operators manual says the Error-20 code indicates a miscommunication between the intelli-panel and the ECU. However I have included a photo of that error-20 page here and it is in the GST section in the manual, not the HST section. So has my tractor been affected with a transgender virus and now wants to identify as a GST?

No one is withholding evidence here. Many contributors and many opinions given. Most are very generous and professional. And a couple emotional.

I probably found the issue. I will share it by PM with the generous and professional responders.




View attachment 132642

EJB, Dusty, Greenville, Wolfman

thanks for these recommendations and prior opinions

it is on a very steep hill, like 45 degrees. You can barely walk around it.

it acts like a lack of fuel. I tried jumping it at the starter with no fire numerous times and again this morning. It gets real hot here days so need the get work done early am.

I added more fuel to the tank as it only had 5 gallons, half a tank on a 45 slope. It is now 100% full. Still no start at jumping solenoid.

I decided to retest the fuses in case I missed one. The 30 amp starter fuse in the bottom right corner is good but the socket is dead. Need to run that down. I will try to find and check the starters relay next. I bench checked the second one from the left and it was good. But not sure if it was the starter relay. My wiring diagram does not have color to find it. I used a Harbor Freight audible wire tracer from the solenoid line to select it. I will test the others tomorrow to be sure.

To move the tractor I have clear ground with the 45 degree slope flattening out at 50 feet. I have a 2500HD 4x4 with aggressive tires I will try to pull it with. I can drop the heavy mower off the back but I have the loader down in front but bucket is curled up, so it may slide well. Worth a try now that the rain is gone and ground is dried out. If the truck cannot do it, I might rent a Tractor and pull it with that. I wish I knew how to pull the FEL off it with out it running…

I think all you guy’s suggestion to get it onto level ground and bleed tank through injectors is reasonable as it most likely sucked a bunch of air into the system. It clearly can’t prime with the little bleeder valve like usual.

So, if I get it bled out, it should start with the key on by jumping at the solenoid, although the starting at ignition switch is disabled?

however, I still have those Intelli-panel error codes between it and the ECU. That concern

Thanks again, you all have been most generous.

EJB. I run it out of fuel a lot because the gas gauge is off. This time I was mowing up a steep hill, trying to make the tank last, rolled the dice and lost. It sputtered and died. probably tried to restart it to much on the steep hill with it gracing up hill and the pick up within the tank pulonly had air, not diesel.

As recommended here, I will drag it up to level ground and start the air bleeding from the system. I am assuming the procedure is spelled out in the WSM.

I should be OK on the recovery as I have pulled this tractor with this truck up even steeper and longer canyons.

thanks again!

 

[DustyRusty]

Get into the habit of filling the tank every time you use the tractor. That should keep you from running out unless it is an enormous fuel hog. I had to keep the mileage written down on a piece of paper clipped to my sun visor because the gas gauge didn't work in my 67 Mustang 2+2. It could pass anything but a gas station!