BX2380 engine / fuel issue?

[Kubota in PA]

Hello tractor folks,

New owner of BX2380 here. Just completed the 50 hour maintenance schedule changing the fuel filters, oil, oil filter, and hydraulic filter. Went to start the tractor and feels like it's starved for fuel--chugging, shaking, and it will start but not run over 1000rpm. Fuel is reaching the fuel line and filter under the hood, and if I open the bleed valve fuel comes spurting out at a good rate when I turn the battery on. All my clamps are off the hoses and I don't see any visible kinks. The fuel pump under the tractor by the other fuel filter is clicking and again, fuel is reaching the engine at a decent level if I can trust what I see from the bleed valve or filter.

What am I missing? I've seen some things online about debris in the gas tank causing clogs, but then I wouldn't have flow or only a trickle at the fuel line right before it connects to the engine or from the bleed valve there, right? Same thing with fuel pump? It isn't bad if I'm getting significant flow at those spots I mentioned, right?

I have a call in to the service department, but they aren't open until Monday, so any help you can provide would be appreciated!

 

[rancher1524]

Fuel filter my not be assembled correctly. Check to make sure all o-rings are in position and seated before assembling the filter.

 

[Sawdust&Shavings]

Hello tractor folks,

New owner of BX2380 here. Just completed the 50 hour maintenance schedule changing the fuel filters, oil, oil filter, and hydraulic filter. Went to start the tractor and feels like it's starved for fuel--chugging, shaking, and it will start but not run over 1000rpm. Fuel is reaching the fuel line and filter under the hood, and if I open the bleed valve fuel comes spurting out at a good rate when I turn the battery on. All my clamps are off the hoses and I don't see any visible kinks. The fuel pump under the tractor by the other fuel filter is clicking and again, fuel is reaching the engine at a decent level if I can trust what I see from the bleed valve or filter.

What am I missing? I've seen some things online about debris in the gas tank causing clogs, but then I wouldn't have flow or only a trickle at the fuel line right before it connects to the engine or from the bleed valve there, right? Same thing with fuel pump? It isn't bad if I'm getting significant flow at those spots I mentioned, right?

I have a call in to the service department, but they aren't open until Monday, so any help you can provide would be appreciated!

You might still have air in the fuel lines; turn the key to on (not start) to give the fuel time to bleed the air out if the fuel lines. There is a slim chance that with “All my clamps are off the hoses …” that air is being introduced at one or more if the six fuel hose clamps.

 

[Kubota in PA]

You might still have air in the fuel lines; turn the key to on (not start) to give the fuel time to bleed the air out if the fuel lines. There is a slim chance that with “All my clamps are off the hoses …” that air is being introduced at one or more if the six fuel hose clamps.

Thank you. I should clarify I meant my clamp tools used when swapping filters, not the hose clamps on the lines.

And I definitely followed the procedure to bleed the air by turning the battery on for 30 seconds or longer.

I appreciate these suggestions though!

 

[Kubota in PA]

Fuel filter my not be assembled correctly. Check to make sure all o-rings are in position and seated before assembling the filter.

They seemed to be one solid unit when I installed them. Are you saying they come apart and that I should check the inside assembly? Or do you mean to make sure I have it installed properly in the fuel line? I installed it the same way the old one was aligned as well as the diagrams and videos.

 

[Edke6bnl]

Should he open lines at the injectors and bleed, not that familiar with that model?

 

[Kubota in PA]

Should he open lines at the injectors and bleed, not that familiar with that model?

Did that in addition to turning the key. When I open that bleed valve by the injectors fuel definitely sprays out and will flow with no air if I remove it all the way.

 

[whitetiger]

Did that in addition to turning the key. When I open that bleed valve by the injectors fuel definitely sprays out and will flow with no air if I remove it all the way.

The BX series has a one-piece in-line filter, you can not disassemble them.
The injectors are in the cylinder head next to the rocker cover. What you are bleeding is at the injection pump. You can use a 17mm or 11/16 open-end wrench, loosen the nut one turn on the injection line at each injector, and crank the engine for a few seconds. Do not get your hand or fingers in the fuel spraying out.

Retighten the nuts, start the engine letting it run for a minute or two. It should smooth out.

 

[Kubota in PA]

The BX series has a one-piece in-line filter, you can not disassemble them.
The injectors are in the cylinder head next to the rocker cover. What you are bleeding is at the injection pump. You can use a 17mm or 11/16 open-end wrench, loosen the nut one turn on the injection line at each injector, and crank the engine for a few seconds. Do not get your hand or fingers in the fuel spraying out.

Retighten the nuts, start the engine letting it run for a minute or two. It should smooth out.

Thank you. I'll try this is the morning--I appreciate the response!

 

[Kubota in PA]

The BX series has a one-piece in-line filter, you can not disassemble them.
The injectors are in the cylinder head next to the rocker cover. What you are bleeding is at the injection pump. You can use a 17mm or 11/16 open-end wrench, loosen the nut one turn on the injection line at each injector, and crank the engine for a few seconds. Do not get your hand or fingers in the fuel spraying out.

Retighten the nuts, start the engine letting it run for a minute or two. It should smooth out.

To clarify, you mean the nuts that I have the wrench on, correct?

 

[whitetiger]

Those are the correct nuts.

 

[Russell King]

You may want to put a wrench on the injector if you can and hold it steady while you rotate the nut on the line.

Probably not needed but cheap insurance.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

X2 !!!!
better safe than ...oopsy...off to the dealer for $$$$$ parts !!!

 

[Kubota in PA]

Those are the correct nuts.

Okay. Called dealer today, but they can't help me until next week. So I'm trying your suggestion. Wrench on the lower part/injector, 17mm on the top nut, but it doesnt seem to budge. As someone not mechanically inclined but with lots of time and eager to learn, do I just need to apply more force?

And once loosened a full turn, I'm not just turning the battery on but cranking the engine for a couple seconds? (I apologize for the dozens of petty questions but I don't want to do anything to make this worse or complicate it.)

Thanks again!

 

[Russell King]

The assumption is that there is air in the lines between the pump and the injector.

Air is compressible so the pulse from the pump is not getting to the injector so is not able to put enough pressure on the injector to crack it open and spray atomized fuel into the cylinder so each cylinder is not firing off properly. It could be one or all of the cylinders that are not firing correctly.

To remove the air the nut is loosened and the pump is operated to move fuel through the lines. This fills the lines with incompressible fluid so the injectors work properly

I would take the two wrenches and see if you can get them situated so that you are able to squeeze them further together as the upper nut is rotating CCW (and the injector would be trying to rotate CW). Then see if you can use both hands to squeeze the wrenches together. KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT FROM THE AREA BETWEEN THE WRENCHES.

If you can’t get them to break loose then get longer wrenches or use pipes to extend the wrenches you have. Or get a stonger friend with some experience to help.

You don’t want to round off the nuts and that is possible if you don’t keep the wrenches on properly. You may want to see if you can borrow or buy a flare nut wrench to keep from damaging the tube nuts. One set is shown below but if you are buying don’t skimp on the quality and get a good quality product. This is just to illustrate what type of wrench I mean.

Amazon.com

 

[whitetiger]

cranking the engine for a couple seconds?

That is correct.

 

[Kubota in PA]

So I tried what was suggested. The nuts loosened pretty easily, and fuel definitely sprayed from them when I started the engine. I retightened them and started, but same thing: starts only after 2-3 tries, runs very rough and shaky, and will not go above 1000rpm. Lots of white smoke from the exhaust this time, too. I was really hoping to mow before the 4th but looks like I'm at the dealer's mercy now. Thanks for the suggestions so far!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious, how long are you letting it run for ?
have changed filters several times on my BX23S and not had your problem.
trying to figure out what's wrong.

 

[Kubota in PA]

curious, how long are you letting it run for ?
have changed filters several times on my BX23S and not had your problem.
trying to figure out what's wrong.

How long am I letting it run with the injector nuts loosened? Seconds.

How long am I letting it run after retightening, or after bleeding the air after changing the filter? 2-3 minutes was the longest, but it's running so hard I hesitate to let it run longer.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'd run for 5 minutes,probably a lot of unspent fuel in the cylinders and needs to be cleared out'.