I have a 2000 BX1800. I put an aftermarket fuel shut off solenoid on it. When the key is turned off, the solenoid moves slowly and takes a few seconds to shut down. Would this cause the tractor to be hard to start next time ( allowing fuel to enter cylinders)? I have black smoke and shakes a bit before coming to life even in warm weather. I have cleaned fuel injectors, checked glow plugs. I plan to check voltage going to the solenoid and try a jumper wire straight from the battery to the solenoid to see if it moves faster.
BX slow to shut down
- Thread starter bxwoody
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North Idaho Wolfman
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More than likely the slow to stop issue has nothing to do with the solenoid, but the linkage in the speed plate.
Remove the stop solenoid and the throttle linkage and see if both the control works smooth and easy.
They are a shaft inside a shaft so an issue with one will be an issue with the other.
As far as black smoke and slow start, it's not the stop solenoid causing it unless the linkage above is sticking hards.
Glow plugs or Injectors or both having an issue is more likely.
You more than likely will need a set of injectors if the glow plugs are working as they should.
I believe a workshop manual for your BX1800 is available for free download at kubotabooks.com. The WSM covers the 1800 and 2200.
The BX1800 uses a timer relay to operate the fuel cut off solenoid to shut the engine down. The electrical diagram in the workshop manual is confusing. It shows the set up for both the BX 1800 with the D722 engine and the BX 2200 With the D905 engine on the same drawing. But the reality is you either have one or the other.
A procedure for testing the fuel shut off solenoid is shown in the WSM starting on page 6–S11.
You might want to explain how you cleaned the fuel injectors so that someone who knows might be able to advise you if you possibly damaged them or did the job perfectly well. I don’t have a clue about that.
edit: I see NIW posted some help while I was typing…
The BX1800 uses a timer relay to operate the fuel cut off solenoid to shut the engine down. The electrical diagram in the workshop manual is confusing. It shows the set up for both the BX 1800 with the D722 engine and the BX 2200 With the D905 engine on the same drawing. But the reality is you either have one or the other.
A procedure for testing the fuel shut off solenoid is shown in the WSM starting on page 6–S11.
You might want to explain how you cleaned the fuel injectors so that someone who knows might be able to advise you if you possibly damaged them or did the job perfectly well. I don’t have a clue about that.
edit: I see NIW posted some help while I was typing…
Used to do a bunch of them, slow to shut down. Usually an issue with the stop solenoid, won't pull completely in to fully shut the fuel off. With engine OFF, turn the key ON (but do not start the engine) and then turn the key back off. Now grab the shutoff lever and push it towards the shutoff solenoid-if it moves at all, you can adjust the solenoid as it's mounting holes is slotted a little to allow for some adjustment.
if you're handy with 12v electrical systems, you can probably repair the harness. If you have any question in your ability, it may be wise to just replace the harness, OR pay someone else to fix it.
running a new 12v wire wouldn't be impossible, but you gotta find the "split" where the system is fed from the same 14ga wire that charges the battery. Making sure, of course, that the rest of the system gets the current it needs to operate properly. Also make sure to use the correct size wire and use the correct amp rating slow-blow fuse to protect the circuit.
running a new 12v wire wouldn't be impossible, but you gotta find the "split" where the system is fed from the same 14ga wire that charges the battery. Making sure, of course, that the rest of the system gets the current it needs to operate properly. Also make sure to use the correct size wire and use the correct amp rating slow-blow fuse to protect the circuit.
You might want to check the position and alignment of the stop solenoid you replaced. It looks like it's just a drop in part but I found out when I replaced mine that it can be slightly out of alignment that will make the plunger move slowly or not at all. The are slots in the mounting plate that allows for some adjustment.
This was the most helpful suggestion. I put the original one back on. The tractor shut down immediately and started like it should. I bought the aftermarket solenoid a few years ago, throwing parts at a problem the tractor had. I have gained more knowledge now. I will check after it sits overnight and give it some time and report back. Thanks!
Throwing parts at a problem is not always best. (it gets costly) I could be wrong, slow shut down causing a flooded start next time. The issue seems to be resolved. Time will tell.