L225 - Can I Replace Main/Key Switch With Toggle Switches?

[TheNewGuy]

I'm looking for some help with my L225 key/ignition switch - novice here but eager to learn!

It's Kubota Part # 31220-31800 - have already replaced it once, and part has been discontinued by Kubota. Messicks has a few in-stock, but I'm in Canada, so I'd like to look at other options. Cosmetics aren't an issue - just want a simple, affordable solution.

The setup is a bit unusual with this tractor, as there's a 4-position key switch (OFF/ON/LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT/HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHT) - the glow plug/starter is on a seperate spring loaded switch. To start tractor, I turn the key to ON, preheat the glow plugs, and then turn over engine.

Once tractor is fired up, the ignition key can be turned to OFF and/or removed (that's why I replaced the key switch once - key fell out while mowing....).

Question - Can I replace the stock key/ignition switch with toggle switches? If so, how?

I have the wiring diagram for the L225, but I have no idea how to proceed (or if it's possible).

Any advice/help would be much appreciated!

 

[GeoHorn]

I’ll bet when your turn the key “off” while it’s still running…. your battery is not being re-charged.

 

[JimDeL]

It'd probably take four switches: Power on (fuel pump, etc.); Lights; Momentary switch for glow plugs; and momentary switch for starter.

If your L225 has any sort of computer then all bets are off.

 

[Jim L.]

I don't know about Canada, but I do know in California there is a theory called "attractive nuisance." So if a kid trespasses and finds an unlocked tractor, starts up the tractor and maims or kills the kid, the owner of the tractor or landowner or both are responsible because they should have known to lock it up.

Fortunately we do not subscribe to this in Texas.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can, but it looks like it would take three switches to do what one switch does.

 

[TheNewGuy]

I don't know about Canada, but I do know in California there is a theory called "attractive nuisance." So if a kid trespasses and finds an unlocked tractor, starts up the tractor and maims or kills the kid, the owner of the tractor or landowner or both are responsible because they should have known to lock it up.

Fortunately we do not subscribe to this in Texas.

Thanks for the heads-up!

I don't know the actual laws around this issue, but on the advice of our insurance broker, we do take a number of measures to reduce liability related to tresspassers. All entrances to our farm (approx. 200 acres) are gated and kept locked; No Tresspass/Private Property signs posted along all fence lines; security cameras in place; and any vehicles that are unlocked or unkeyed are parked in a locked driveshed, usually blocked in with another, keyed vehicle (as we'd do with the L225).

We know that if someone wants in, they'll get in, but we hope these measures (combined with the fact that the neighbours have much nicer equipment than we do!!) will keep our risk of liability issues low.

 

[TheNewGuy]

I’ll bet when your turn the key “off” while it’s still running…. your battery is not being re-charged.

Likely not? It's never been an issue operation-wise - all the gauges were DOA when I bought it, and I keep it on a trickle charger (owned tractor for about 3 years, use about 8-15 hrs/week April-November to mow using either a bush hog or finish mower). We very rarely use the headlights.

 

[TheNewGuy]

It'd probably take four switches: Power on (fuel pump, etc.); Lights; Momentary switch for glow plugs; and momentary switch for starter.

If your L225 has any sort of computer then all bets are off.

Thanks for the reply Jim!

I should have mentioned that my L225 is a 1975 model - very bare-bones, and definately no computer!

The glow plug controller is on the starter switch (a black, spring-loaded knob on the right side of the dash).

The main/keyed switch, (the one I'd like to replace with toggle switches) is on the left side of the dash - has five copper screw posts - Battery (AV 3 Red); IG (AV 3 Red/White); T (AV 0.5 Yellow - goes directly from keyed switch to non-functioning hour meter); and L1 and L2 (AV 0.5 Brown and AV 0.5 Orange - go thru fuse box to headlights).

I got this info off the wiring diagram for the L225 in the Kubota shop manual.

So I'm wondering if the only 'essential' connections off/thru the keyed switch are actually the Battery/AV 3 Red, and the IG (AV 3 Red/White)? If so, could I install two (or more?) toggle switches that I'd turn 'on' to start the tractor?

 

[TheNewGuy]

You can, but it looks like it would take three switches to do what one switch does.

Thanks for the reply!

I know it sounds like a make-work project, but given that the keyed switch from Kubota for this model is tough to find, involves a wait for delivery, and is expensive - (would run about $175 to ship from Messicks to Canada) I'm hoping I can replace the OEM key switch with readily-available toggle switches so I can get the tractor running soon.

I just have absolutely no idea how to proceed with the switch switch-over (my electrical skills are pretty much limited to changing light bulbs). Right now, all the wires leading into the key switch have ring terminals - would you be so kind as to give me some direction as to how to rework the wiring/connect to the toggle switches? Also, what size of toggle switch should I get?

Really appreciate everyone who's taken the time to reply here!

 

[Bisleybob]

You can use a SPST (single pole, single throw[simple on/off])switch for the ignition, and a SPDT (single pole, double throw [one power wire in, two wires out, one for each of the light circuits])switch for the lights.

 

[Henro]

You can use a SPST (single pole, single throw[simple on/off])switch for the ignition, and a SPDT (single pole, double throw [one power wire in, two wires out, one for each of the light circuits])switch for the lights.

Exactly. This way you eliminate the possibility of having both the high and low beam bulb filaments on at the same time, which might cause a burnout if both in one bulb. Two switches gets the job done.

 

[MOOTS]

Would a regular indak switch not work? They are in just about every piece of equipment around.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Check amazon. I would use the key switch for a new L series tractor. Just remove the pigtail from it and mount it to your existing wires.

 

[Russell King]

You could hack the existing wire harness or fairly easily splice onto the existing ring terminals of the harness at the key switch.

You can use a toggle switch or you could find a fairly simple key switch to be the first switch to replace the existing key switch.

There is a positive battery cable to the starter large post. There are two red wires also on the same terminal. One goes directly to the alternator and the other goes to the center of the key switch and there is also a white wire connecting the alternator. That is terminal B on the key switch. That needs to be connected to the incoming power supply terminal on the new switch.

On the existing switch terminal IG are two large gauge red with white strip wires. These would go on the outgoing side of the new switch (normally off side). They would be powered when the switch is turned on. The switch should be able to carry 15 or 20 amps minimum (you need to verify how many amps are needed for the glow plugs and size above that). One of the wires goes to the fuse block and the other goes to the starter switch.

That will allow you to start and run the tractor but not any lighting control. If you never use any lights I would just not worry with any more switches but here is what you can do.

From the output side of the new switch put a jumper to a new switch (center of a SPDT) to provide a power source. On the existing switch there is a brown wire on L1 terminal and an orange wire on the L2 terminal. L1 is low beam and L2 is high beam (I think). Put the brown wire on one side and then the orange wire on the other side of the SPDT switch. That takes care of the headlights.

But there is no tail lights or dash lights in that configuration. You can decide how you want them to operate. Simple wiring would be always on when the new ”key” is on. Or add another SPST to control the tail lights. The tail lights are the yellow wire on the T terminal of the existing key switch.

Smarter people may have better idea about the wiring.