By the way, I’m not getting notifications on your replies. I’ve been going to my post and looking.
Kubota L175 starter makes noise when I connect negative battery cable and key is off
- Thread starter pa1203
- Start date
Russell King
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This reply to your post should create a notification.
I will then just post an answer to your other post.
There is some way to get an email notification from this thread…but I don’t recall how. You watch the tread .
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Okay thank you for the reply and pictures.
Since you really have not removed or changed the wiring at the starter I have gone down the wrong path.
Here is what might have happened to the tractor. The starter and solenoid (mounted onto the starter) has gone bad. I can “suppose” that the starter is in a state that always wants to crank. I can further suppose that it may have started the tractor and the fuel tank may be empty now. That may be why it started and ran and then died. If the starter was always cranking it would drain the battery (bucket had a hole in it). Then you charged it and it started (I don’t know if it was still cranking the starter at that time but it may have been).
When you disconnected the battery the starter is still in the “need power” state so when you try to connect the negative cable it is trying to make an active circuit so wants to draw a lot of amps.
All of the above is just a lot of BLAH BLAH BLAH telling you the thought process.
I will post again with what I recommend (Replace or rebuild the starter).
Since you really have not removed or changed the wiring at the starter I have gone down the wrong path.
Here is what might have happened to the tractor. The starter and solenoid (mounted onto the starter) has gone bad. I can “suppose” that the starter is in a state that always wants to crank. I can further suppose that it may have started the tractor and the fuel tank may be empty now. That may be why it started and ran and then died. If the starter was always cranking it would drain the battery (bucket had a hole in it). Then you charged it and it started (I don’t know if it was still cranking the starter at that time but it may have been).
When you disconnected the battery the starter is still in the “need power” state so when you try to connect the negative cable it is trying to make an active circuit so wants to draw a lot of amps.
All of the above is just a lot of BLAH BLAH BLAH telling you the thought process.
I will post again with what I recommend (Replace or rebuild the starter).
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
When you first post a thread at the bottom of your post "box" underneath the attach files portion there is a small box labeled "watch this thread". If you check that box you should get notifications in your profile of replies.
Under that box is another box labeled "and receive email notifications". If you check that box you should get emails every time someone posts.
If you don't check those when you post you won't receive notifications.
I don't know if you can go back and check them afterwards or not.
As far as your starter.
Starter has 2 parts. Big "barrel" is the starter motor itself. This is what actually spins the engine.
Small "barrel" is the starter solenoid. It's a switch that allows power to flow to the starter motor.
Normally battery power is waiting at the starter. When you turn the key, power flows through the small wire and closes the solenoid, which allows battery power to flow through the large wire to the starter motor itself.
it sounds like the solenoid is stuck closed, so power is always allowed to flow to the starter, not just when the key is turned on.
Or, less likely, the contact at the key is stuck closed, closing the solenoid, ect.
Tapping it with a hammer (not too hard) may loosen it.
It may also need to be taken apart and cleaned/rebuilt.
Looking at the condition of everything else it may not hurt to take it apart and clean it.
Under that box is another box labeled "and receive email notifications". If you check that box you should get emails every time someone posts.
If you don't check those when you post you won't receive notifications.
I don't know if you can go back and check them afterwards or not.
As far as your starter.
Starter has 2 parts. Big "barrel" is the starter motor itself. This is what actually spins the engine.
Small "barrel" is the starter solenoid. It's a switch that allows power to flow to the starter motor.
Normally battery power is waiting at the starter. When you turn the key, power flows through the small wire and closes the solenoid, which allows battery power to flow through the large wire to the starter motor itself.
it sounds like the solenoid is stuck closed, so power is always allowed to flow to the starter, not just when the key is turned on.
Or, less likely, the contact at the key is stuck closed, closing the solenoid, ect.
Tapping it with a hammer (not too hard) may loosen it.
It may also need to be taken apart and cleaned/rebuilt.
Looking at the condition of everything else it may not hurt to take it apart and clean it.
Do you think is the starter or the solenoid?
I looked up solenoid by itself and it’s available
Do you think the problem is the solenoid or the starter itself. I see solenoid is available and much cheaper than the whole starter
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Here is how I would proceed in your current situation:
1) Make 100% sure the battery cable going to the starter is connected to the POSITIVE battery terminal. I can’t tell from the picture and it is not uncommon for batteries to be installed incorrectly (they make the same size battery with the posts reversed from one side to the other so easily installed incorrectly)
2) Remove the battery cables from the battery. Measure the length needed to get both cables new.
2a) Put charger on the battery. If it is not a trickle (smart) charger then don’t leave it on the battery too long. You seem to know how to charge the battery from previous comments so that is enough about that.
3) remove the wiring from the starter.
4) remove the starter from the tractor. You may have to get help doing this but remember that the bolts need to turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE to loosen them. You can also use a long wrench or pipe on the wrench to help. I also recommend using something like PB Blaster or similar penetrating spray on the bolt thread holes if you can get to them. WD-40 is not really that good for this but does not hurt anything.
5) Take starter to an auto parts store (NAPA) or a starter repair shop. They can get you a replacement part or rebuild it. I recommend buying a different starter due to corrosion but that is up to you. You should also ask if they can get you a more modern starter that has some GEAR REDUCTION in it so it spins the engine faster and easier. Any of these choices is will be a $100 to $200 unfortunately. But I believe the starter has some internal failure. It is possible that the solenoid is the defective part and can be replaced by the starter repair shop. That would be less expensive.
6) While at the automotive parts store buy two new battery cables. The repair ends on cables that you used WILL give you trouble in the near future.
7) Install new starter on tractor. Clockwise for tighten the bolts and make sure the starter fits into the tractor opening correctly. The starter has a round lip sticking out that fits into the large hole in the tractor and the bolts hold it tight down in the hole. I don’t think it would al the bolts to be installed if not properly installed on the tractor opening but just be careful here. Tighten the bolts as much as you can.
8) Install both new battery cables routed in similar fashion. Don’t connect them to the battery yet. You should clean the ground point on the frame or motor to shiny metal using a wire brush and/or sandpaper. Connect the ground cable to the frame. I think this may also be difficult and recommend you replace the hardware (bolt, nuts, washers) with new.
9) Install the wiring at the starter. Refer to your pictures. Also connect the wire to the spade on the solenoid.
10) Remove the battery charger if still attached to the battery posts. Connect the positive cable to the POSITIVE battery terminal and tighten it down.
11) Touch the negative cable to the NEGATIVE battery terminal to see if is still making any sparks or noise. (It should not do either)
12) If there are no sparks or noise then install the ground cable onto the battery.
13) Make sure there is diesel fuel in the tank. Hopefully there is half a tank or more. If it is empty then you have another problem to deal with- bleeding out the air in the system. Post back if the tank seems low to empty.
14) Now try to start the tractor and hopefully the problem is resolved.
15) Post back with any and all results so that we know that we have a happy Patty!
Hopefully you can do all these steps yourself but if not then just ask someone that you know for some assistance. Most people are happy to help out if they are asked. I personally never offer to help unless asked or can see a struggle or potential disaster about to happen.
1) Make 100% sure the battery cable going to the starter is connected to the POSITIVE battery terminal. I can’t tell from the picture and it is not uncommon for batteries to be installed incorrectly (they make the same size battery with the posts reversed from one side to the other so easily installed incorrectly)
2) Remove the battery cables from the battery. Measure the length needed to get both cables new.
2a) Put charger on the battery. If it is not a trickle (smart) charger then don’t leave it on the battery too long. You seem to know how to charge the battery from previous comments so that is enough about that.
3) remove the wiring from the starter.
4) remove the starter from the tractor. You may have to get help doing this but remember that the bolts need to turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE to loosen them. You can also use a long wrench or pipe on the wrench to help. I also recommend using something like PB Blaster or similar penetrating spray on the bolt thread holes if you can get to them. WD-40 is not really that good for this but does not hurt anything.
5) Take starter to an auto parts store (NAPA) or a starter repair shop. They can get you a replacement part or rebuild it. I recommend buying a different starter due to corrosion but that is up to you. You should also ask if they can get you a more modern starter that has some GEAR REDUCTION in it so it spins the engine faster and easier. Any of these choices is will be a $100 to $200 unfortunately. But I believe the starter has some internal failure. It is possible that the solenoid is the defective part and can be replaced by the starter repair shop. That would be less expensive.
6) While at the automotive parts store buy two new battery cables. The repair ends on cables that you used WILL give you trouble in the near future.
7) Install new starter on tractor. Clockwise for tighten the bolts and make sure the starter fits into the tractor opening correctly. The starter has a round lip sticking out that fits into the large hole in the tractor and the bolts hold it tight down in the hole. I don’t think it would al the bolts to be installed if not properly installed on the tractor opening but just be careful here. Tighten the bolts as much as you can.
8) Install both new battery cables routed in similar fashion. Don’t connect them to the battery yet. You should clean the ground point on the frame or motor to shiny metal using a wire brush and/or sandpaper. Connect the ground cable to the frame. I think this may also be difficult and recommend you replace the hardware (bolt, nuts, washers) with new.
9) Install the wiring at the starter. Refer to your pictures. Also connect the wire to the spade on the solenoid.
10) Remove the battery charger if still attached to the battery posts. Connect the positive cable to the POSITIVE battery terminal and tighten it down.
11) Touch the negative cable to the NEGATIVE battery terminal to see if is still making any sparks or noise. (It should not do either)
12) If there are no sparks or noise then install the ground cable onto the battery.
13) Make sure there is diesel fuel in the tank. Hopefully there is half a tank or more. If it is empty then you have another problem to deal with- bleeding out the air in the system. Post back if the tank seems low to empty.
14) Now try to start the tractor and hopefully the problem is resolved.
15) Post back with any and all results so that we know that we have a happy Patty!
Hopefully you can do all these steps yourself but if not then just ask someone that you know for some assistance. Most people are happy to help out if they are asked. I personally never offer to help unless asked or can see a struggle or potential disaster about to happen.
On my model the oil dip stick is close enough to the starter to touch the starter/battery connection and cause a short.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
It is most likely the SOLENOID since that is the “switch” at the battery.
I suspect that there is some corrosion involved inside the starter that could cause it to hang up and the solenoid can’t release to stop the flow of power (water valve is stuck open).
When I took my starter to a local starter/alternator repair shop they stated it needed replacement due to “corrosion”. It was a working starter but turned slow so I was trying to get the tractor to start better in the winter (central Texas).
I did not question it at all and just purchased a rebuilt one. I regret not pursuing the newer version but didn’t even think about it being available.
If you are concerned about the cost, I’d recommend you go to a local repair shop for the evaluation. Most auto parts stores are limited in experience and will just test it and say good or bad with no idea what is wrong with it.
Oh Russell thanks so much for all the detailed steps you wrote. I will follow them and let you know what happens. I really appreciate all the help you have offered me
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Another improvement you can easily make is to re-connect the radiator overflow tube to the whistle!
I noticed in one of the pictures that it is disconnected and the whistle looks plugged up by wasp or mud daubers nests.
These tractors are prone to overheating and that cracks the head and that renders the tractor to scrap since the heads are (or were) obsolete.
The whistle would sound an alarm when the tractor engine is too hot so it can be shut off and avoid damage to the tractor.
I recommend that you clean the whistle out by removing it and putting it in some hot water or just using some pipe cleaners and then connect it to the tube that is connected to the radiator neck just under the radiator cap. You may have to replace the tube since it seems short and probably is brittle material now.
I noticed in one of the pictures that it is disconnected and the whistle looks plugged up by wasp or mud daubers nests.
These tractors are prone to overheating and that cracks the head and that renders the tractor to scrap since the heads are (or were) obsolete.
The whistle would sound an alarm when the tractor engine is too hot so it can be shut off and avoid damage to the tractor.
I recommend that you clean the whistle out by removing it and putting it in some hot water or just using some pipe cleaners and then connect it to the tube that is connected to the radiator neck just under the radiator cap. You may have to replace the tube since it seems short and probably is brittle material now.
Last edited:
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I was also curious about two other things in you pictures that I noticed.
There is some type of round gauge above the starter and a blue wire that is not connected to anything.
When looking for wiring diagrams I could not locate any for the L175. But I noticed on most similar vintage models the blue wire was for the engine oil pressure sensor.
I assume the blue wire was connected to the sensor and that was removed and replaced by some sort of pressure gauge. Why the gauge is not up on the dash is anyone’s guess.
But anyway I don’t think you need to worry about that blue wire since it is not a live wire and won’t do anything if it comes into contact with anything. It might turn the low oil pressure light on if grounded out.
Personally I would want some indication of low oil pressure on the dash and I would try to get the correct sensor and wire it in again. But that may just creating a problem showing low oil pressure and something else to worry about.
I assume that you don’t have to have the tractor operational and if/when it completely dies you will be sad but not devastated.
There is some type of round gauge above the starter and a blue wire that is not connected to anything.
When looking for wiring diagrams I could not locate any for the L175. But I noticed on most similar vintage models the blue wire was for the engine oil pressure sensor.
I assume the blue wire was connected to the sensor and that was removed and replaced by some sort of pressure gauge. Why the gauge is not up on the dash is anyone’s guess.
But anyway I don’t think you need to worry about that blue wire since it is not a live wire and won’t do anything if it comes into contact with anything. It might turn the low oil pressure light on if grounded out.
Personally I would want some indication of low oil pressure on the dash and I would try to get the correct sensor and wire it in again. But that may just creating a problem showing low oil pressure and something else to worry about.
I assume that you don’t have to have the tractor operational and if/when it completely dies you will be sad but not devastated.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Any update on this?Oh Russell thanks so much for all the detailed steps you wrote. I will follow them and let you know what happens. I really appreciate all the help you have offered me
Oh Russell I can’t remove the starter. I asked my neighbor and he couldn’t do it. There’s hardly any space to be able to put a ratchet on the top bolt
I’m so sad, this little tractor even though decrepit never failed me in the 10 years I’ve had it until now and now I can’t get it fixed unless I hire a mechanic to come and fix it and they charge a lot of money that I don’t have. I looked at all the wiring behind dashboard and everything looks fine, nothing eaten by mice
