HYVAIR solenoid valve d03s-2c-12d-35 source or replacement?

[joea]

Looking for a (reasonably priced) replacement for a HYVAIR d03s-2c-12d-35 for my 4 in 1 bucket control.

I suppose any solenoid operated hydraulic valve of similar flow rating would be OK if I had to. Or even non solenoid, but I have not thought that out.

Seems toward the end of an afternoon of box blade work on the drive, the 3 pt and bucket stopped playing nice. The tractor also seemed not to want to move properly and the engine temp was higher than I have ever seen it.

Panic mode was near, fearing the worst, but after struggling to get to a place not blocking the drive, a little detective work determined the solenoid valve seemed "on" all the time.

Pulled the fuse to it, heard it click, restarted engine and all seems well. Except of course the "jaw" does not work.

Now that I have started to post, I realize it "could" just be the switch is bad, but, I've not looked into it that far. Don't think I have a schematic of the WR Long setup, so no idea if the switch controls power to the solenoid or, if it completes the circuit to ground FOR the solenoid.

Maybe someone here knows more?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Looking for a (reasonably priced) replacement for a HYVAIR d03s-2c-12d-35 for my 4 in 1 bucket control.

I suppose any solenoid operated hydraulic valve of similar flow rating would be OK if I had to. Or even non solenoid, but I have not thought that out.

Seems toward the end of an afternoon of box blade work on the drive, the 3 pt and bucket stopped playing nice. The tractor also seemed not to want to move properly and the engine temp was higher than I have ever seen it.

Panic mode was near, fearing the worst, but after struggling to get to a place not blocking the drive, a little detective work determined the solenoid valve seemed "on" all the time.

Pulled the fuse to it, heard it click, restarted engine and all seems well. Except of course the "jaw" does not work.

Now that I have started to post, I realize it "could" just be the switch is bad, but, I've not looked into it that far. Don't think I have a schematic of the WR Long setup, so no idea if the switch controls power to the solenoid or, if it completes the circuit to ground FOR the solenoid.

Maybe someone here knows more?

Sounds like the valve was not returning to neutral and your hydraulics are deadheaded by whatever is controlled by the valve.

If pulling the fuse unjammed it the problem would seem to be in he control circuit not the valve/solenoids. Stuck/shorted switch would be high on my list of suspects.

Dan

 

[Dustball]

Here's the manual for the valve- https://hyvair.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/d03solenoid.pdf

They're not complicated. It's a 3-position valve body where solenoids on either end push the spool from side to side. The spool itself is spring centered which means when neither solenoid is powered, the spool is centered in the valve body and the pressure port is connected to the return port.

Open it up and ensure the spool moves freely. If one of the solenoids failed, replace just the solenoid (pn 2BF-D1) and not the whole assembly. They simply plug into the electrical box-

I'd start by checking the spool movement first.


Here's a thread I found that may relate- https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/kubota-l4400-3rd-function-switch-or-valve-stuck.343593/

 

[TheOldHokie]

Here's the manual for the valve- https://hyvair.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/d03solenoid.pdf

They're not complicated. It's a 3-position valve body where solenoids on either end push the spool from side to side. The spool itself is spring centered which means when neither solenoid is powered, the spool is centered in the valve body and the pressure port is connected to the return port.

Open it up and ensure the spool moves freely. If one of the solenoids failed, replace just the solenoid (pn 2BF-D1) and not the whole assembly. They simply plug into the electrical box-
View attachment 130411

I'd start by checking the spool movement first.


Here's a thread I found that may relate- https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/kubota-l4400-3rd-function-switch-or-valve-stuck.343593/

Apparently the spool returned to center when the fuse (power) was pulled.

I think I would be looking at the switch and wiring before disassembling the valve. Pretty sure WR Long switches ground....

Dan

 

[joea]

Sounds like the valve was not returning to neutral and your hydraulics are deadheaded by whatever is controlled by the valve.

If pulling the fuse unjammed it the problem would seem to be in he control circuit not the valve/solenoids. Stuck/shorted switch would be high on my list of suspects.

Dan

Yeah. After thinking about it a bit more and finding the switch is available as a spare part, and realizing it is a "double acting toggle",

Apparently the spool returned to center when the fuse (power) was pulled.

I think I would be looking at the switch and wiring before disassembling the valve. Pretty sure WR Long switches ground....

Dan

Turns out the switch is bad. It is a on-off-on type switch with +12 on the center, common, terminal. The "open the jaw" side is on all the time.

Have two on order from Mouser electronics. Probably never need the spare. The switch is Otto K1CBEAAAAA

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yeah. After thinking about it a bit more and finding the switch is available as a spare part, and realizing it is a "double acting toggle",


Turns out the switch is bad. It is a on-off-on type switch with +12 on the center, common, terminal. The "open the jaw" side is on all the time.

Have two on order from Mouser electronics. Probably never need the spare. The switch is Otto K1CBEAAAAA

So much for my " pretty sure they switched ground"....

Glad it was that easy.

Dan