Which rotary cutter

[Pound]

Have a L2501 and would like to add a rotary cutter to clear some of my land from the 1-3 inch trash trees etc. would like to know what my options are based on everyone’s experience. If you want to include price that would be appreciated but obviously google is my friend.

 

[Mitjam]

Have a L2501 and would like to add a rotary cutter to clear some of my land from the 1-3 inch trash trees etc. would like to know what my options are based on everyone’s experience. If you want to include price that would be appreciated but obviously google is my friend.

To cut a 3 inch tree you need a pretty decent size rotary cutter. I mean built wise. I don’t know many brand specifications other than landpride but the bigger series may be too much for a l2501. But I think for the bigger trees you could always cut them, and the stump notch it a bunch of different ways and into the ground a couple inches so it’s not solid when you do go to mow it (if that makes sense). I have the lighter rcr 1272 on my lx3520 which is rated for 1 inch if I do come across a bigger tree I cut it leave the stump 6 inches high and cut it down into the ground yes it wrecks your chainsaw chain but a lot cheaper then a bigger mower and tractor. Just whatever mower you get be sure it has a slip clutch or at least a shear bolt. In Canada a landpride rcr1272 is about $4000.

 

[jyoutz]

I agree that a 3” tree is a bit much for all but the stoutest rotary cutter. I would do as Mitjam suggests and do the initial tree sapling removal with a chainsaw or other equipment. Then maintain the resprouts with a rotary cutter. A five foot medium duty would work for the maintenance situation.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Have a L2501 and would like to add a rotary cutter to clear some of my land from the 1-3 inch trash trees etc. would like to know what my options are based on everyone’s experience. If you want to include price that would be appreciated but obviously google is my friend.

Good day.

How big an area are you wanting cleared?
Depending on space and size of the saplings (density of them) there are a few reasonable options:

0. Depending on how many, does the your machine have a toothbar? I am not sure your soil but maybe that’s an option? I’d also wonder if there is a pull option?

1. (String trimmer)Brush Cutter with a saw blade.

2. Chainsaw

3. If a large area rent or pay someone with compact loader and mulching head come in and clear out.

if it’s just a few though I think chainsaw or trimmer is the way to go. (But I’d probably try a tooth bar first depending on soil / situation)

if you have acreage to clear, I’d be thinking to save wear and tear on your machine and have a loader and mulcher head come in.

 

[Elliott in GA]

I have reclaimed acres of neglected pasture with my Land Pride RCR1860 (slip clutch equipped and rated up to 2 inch material). It does a great job, BUT I cut all trees/brush over an inch with my Stihl Kombi using the pole saw attachment without an extender). I slice the trees/brush off even with the ground (later I chip them), and then I cut the area with the rotary cutter set to about 5 inches. The rotary cutter does the vast majority of the work cutting the small privet and multiflora rose (think of a wall of solid green standing 5-6 feet high, 75 yards wide and 15 yards deep). I could not back over it due to the density. I had to claw it down with my grapple, and then I could mow it.

Your tractor (like mine) does not have the needed power to run a rotary cutter capable of cutting 3 inch trees.

 

[PortTackFarm]

Not much I can add here. @rc51stierhoff is spot on with his comments. I'd only add if looking at rotary cutters, I'd spend a bit more for a heavier duty cutter, especially if it's something you think you'll use a lot. The RC1200 series Land Prides are very common at dealerships, but I'd jump to at least the 1800 Series if you can swing it.

 

[Pound]

To cut a 3 inch tree you need a pretty decent size rotary cutter. I mean built wise. I don’t know many brand specifications other than landpride but the bigger series may be too much for a l2501. But I think for the bigger trees you could always cut them, and the stump notch it a bunch of different ways and into the ground a couple inches so it’s not solid when you do go to mow it (if that makes sense). I have the lighter rcr 1272 on my lx3520 which is rated for 1 inch if I do come across a bigger tree I cut it leave the stump 6 inches high and cut it down into the ground yes it wrecks your chainsaw chain but a lot cheaper then a bigger mower and tractor. Just whatever mower you get be sure it has a slip clutch or at least a shear bolt. In Canada a landpride rcr1272 is about $4000.

That makes a lot of sense. Not spending $4K

 

[Pound]

Good day.

How big an area are you wanting cleared?
Depending on space and size of the saplings (density of them) there are a few reasonable options:

0. Depending on how many, does the your machine have a toothbar? I am not sure your soil but maybe that’s an option? I’d also wonder if there is a pull option?

1. (String trimmer)Brush Cutter with a saw blade.

2. Chainsaw

3. If a large area rent or pay someone with compact loader and mulching head come in and clear out.

if it’s just a few though I think chainsaw or trimmer is the way to go. (But I’d probably try a tooth bar first depending on soil / situation)

if you have acreage to clear, I’d be thinking to save wear and tear on your machine and have a loader and mulcher head come in.

I am actually in the process of looking at purchasing a piranha. The cost and the reviews are hard to pass up. i think i will wait and see how the tooth bar and my chainsaw does as some of the commenters have said. The area really is not that big (few acres) and i definitely could use a stress relief project. Will then look to get a "standard" rotary cutter since it won't be used that much down the road.

 

[Pound]

Not much I can add here. @rc51stierhoff is spot on with his comments. I'd only add if looking at rotary cutters, I'd spend a bit more for a heavier duty cutter, especially if it's something you think you'll use a lot. The RC1200 series Land Prides are very common at dealerships, but I'd jump to at least the 1800 Series if you can swing it.

thanks for the recommendation on the common RC's.

 

[Pound]

I have reclaimed acres of neglected pasture with my Land Pride RCR1860 (slip clutch equipped and rated up to 2 inch material). It does a great job, BUT I cut all trees/brush over an inch with my Stihl Kombi using the pole saw attachment without an extender). I slice the trees/brush off even with the ground (later I chip them), and then I cut the area with the rotary cutter set to about 5 inches. The rotary cutter does the vast majority of the work cutting the small privet and multiflora rose (think of a wall of solid green standing 5-6 feet high, 75 yards wide and 15 yards deep). I could not back over it due to the density. I had to claw it down with my grapple, and then I could mow it.

Your tractor (like mine) does not have the needed power to run a rotary cutter capable of cutting 3 inch trees.

Thanks - just starting to learn about limitations etc.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Have a L2501 and would like to add a rotary cutter to clear some of my land from the 1-3 inch trash trees etc. would like to know what my options are based on everyone’s experience. If you want to include price that would be appreciated but obviously google is my friend.

Not much for me to add to the above posts, besides my personal experience with trying the exact same thing as you.

Simply put, it won't work.

I bought my L2501 and RCR1860 with the almost the exact same plan as you describe, and it was just too much.

I got about 2 feet into the trees and it sounded like "all hell was breaking loose" .

It ended up jamming one of the cutting blades at the pivot, and I decided to "quit while I was behind".


Edit: My RCR also boasts about cutting "up to 2 inch trees" , but that is clearly meant for the "occasional 2 incher" , not 5 acres of them tightly packed....

 

[SDT]

I have reclaimed acres of neglected pasture with my Land Pride RCR1860 (slip clutch equipped and rated up to 2 inch material). It does a great job, BUT I cut all trees/brush over an inch with my Stihl Kombi using the pole saw attachment without an extender). I slice the trees/brush off even with the ground (later I chip them), and then I cut the area with the rotary cutter set to about 5 inches. The rotary cutter does the vast majority of the work cutting the small privet and multiflora rose (think of a wall of solid green standing 5-6 feet high, 75 yards wide and 15 yards deep). I could not back over it due to the density. I had to claw it down with my grapple, and then I could mow it.

Your tractor (like mine) does not have the needed power to run a rotary cutter capable of cutting 3 inch trees.

Agreed.

Three-inch trees are too much for a 2501.

 

[DustyRusty]

If you have 3" trees and you want to make a smooth area, then I would suggest that you find someone that has some heavy duty equipment to come in and clear the land. This isn't the type of job that you are going to be able to do yourself unless you are going to be devoting a lot of time to completing the task. I had a similar situation but my field had about 10 or 12 large trees that needed to be removed. The contractor came in with a bulldozer and an excavator and in a day the land was cleared. The following day they brought in a Harley Rake and cleared out all the rocks and smoothed the surface. I had it hydro-seeded and 2 weeks later I was cutting grass. I would have been there working from early morning to late evening for the entire summer to accomplish what the proper equipment can do in just one day.

 

[Pound]

Not much for me to add to the above posts, besides my personal experience with trying the exact same thing as you.

Simply put, it won't work.

I bought my L2501 and RCR1860 with the almost the exact same plan as you describe, and it was just too much.

I got about 2 feet into the trees and it sounded like "all hell was breaking loose" .

It ended up jamming one of the cutting blades at the pivot, and I decided to "quit while I was behind".


Edit: My RCR also boasts about cutting "up to 2 inch trees" , but that is clearly meant for the "occasional 2 incher" , not 5 acres of them tightly packed....

i get it! going with a mid grade 4 foot RC that will cut the occasional 1.5 - 2 inch tree. Most of what i have are soft wood - pine! Anything bigger and i will use my chainsaw.

 

[Elliott in GA]

i get it! going with a mid grade 4 foot RC that will cut the occasional 1.5 - 2 inch tree. Most of what i have are soft wood - pine! Anything bigger and i will use my chainsaw.

As you say, you get it, and you are making the right choice. I just want to give you some experience that may help you set your expectations. I typically cut down trees in excess of 1 inch, because they are very difficult to back over (obviously depends on the species). Backing over a 1+ or even a 2 inch privet is usually fairly easy, but a 2 inch pine or hardwood is going to be a problem. It is a problem in two respects: (1) you may not be able to physically back over it due to the stout trunk (loss of traction, damage to mower deck and etc.) and (2) you do not want to push it over / run over it since it may inflict damage on your tractor (lots of cable, hoses and filters that are vulnerable plus sheet metal) when it pops up.

Even though I am careful to only back over potentially dangerous brush, I noticed that my Hydraulic filter (not the transmission filter) was missing some paint when I did my 200 hr. service. I changed it to be on the safe side.

You want to be especially careful not to push something down that is not cut prior to reversing direction; it might pop up and stab/catch something on your tractor.

Good luck, with a little care you will be fine.

 

[Pound]

As you say, you get it, and you are making the right choice. I just want to give you some experience that may help you set your expectations. I typically cut down trees in excess of 1 inch, because they are very difficult to back over (obviously depends on the species). Backing over a 1+ or even a 2 inch privet is usually fairly easy, but a 2 inch pine or hardwood is going to be a problem. It is a problem in two respects: (1) you may not be able to physically back over it due to the stout trunk (loss of traction, damage to mower deck and etc.) and (2) you do not want to push it over / run over it since it may inflict damage on your tractor (lots of cable, hoses and filters that are vulnerable plus sheet metal) when it pops up.

Even though I am careful to only back over potentially dangerous brush, I noticed that my Hydraulic filter (not the transmission filter) was missing some paint when I did my 200 hr. service. I changed it to be on the safe side.

You want to be especially careful not to push something down that is not cut prior to reversing direction; it might pop up and stab/catch something on your tractor.

Good luck, with a little care you will be fine.

Appreciate the insight and advice. Duly noted. Thanks!

 

[ken erickson]

I spent 3 hours, 3 days ago cutting 1 inch red oak saplings and up to 1 1/2 inch aspens in a hilly five acre area. Hst L2501 with a 6 foot light duty Landpride. I get heat from folks saying it’s too much cutter but 3 seasons in, I am 100 percent satisfied with my choice and experience.

The main use is keeping my trail system maintained and maintenance mowing of native seeded areas. I personally love the overhang when grooming trails. Makes it easier to keep the vegetation pushed back.

Note, your mileage may vary and sorry, no trail cam in the 5 acre area.

 

[PortTackFarm]

I use a Honda 4 stroke Trimmer/Brush Cutter. It has a 10" blade and does a great job with those saplings, etc.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I use a Honda 4 stroke Trimmer/Brush Cutter. It has a 10" blade and does a great job with those saplings, etc.

I have often wondered how well that would work.

Do tell. Any close calls, or things to be aware of?

Bending down, over and over and over again, with a running chainsaw does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. (even though I have a brand new pair of "Arbortec chainsaw pants" , I would prefer to NOT test them out )

 

[PortTackFarm]

I have often wondered how well that would work.

Do tell. Any close calls, or things to be aware of?

Bending down, over and over and over again, with a running chainsaw does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. (even though I have a brand new pair of "Arbortec chainsaw pants" , I would prefer to NOT test them out )

A 10" carbide circular saw blade spinning near your feet and ankles tend to make you a bit aware of what you're doing. There is a guard on the back side of he blade which I'm sure some brave folks will find superfluous, but it certainly adds a bit of protection. I've used mine to take down some trees 4" in diameter and 8'-10' tall.