Breaking out the "Big Guns"

[Sidekick]

I too have never heard of "Blue Creeper"
Reviews are all very good,.....for sewing machine lubrication.

I have been using Kroil, as a penetrant, for many years, with phenomenal success.
Blue Creeper sells for $4.20 per oz.
Kroil sells for $1 per oz. ($128 per gallon)

I bought a full gallon of Kroil.
A gallon of Blue Creeper would apparently be $4.20 x 128oz = $537.60 ?
I shall pass on Blue Creeper.
I have multiple penetrant needs.
I only have one sewing machine!

I found out about it on the Forestry Forum. They make the log rite can't hook that I use and after all the posts about how good Blue Creeper works I decided to try it. Mostly for the low odor that is non toxic. Really amazed me by how little it takes to free up rusted items, especially things like lugnuts and no toxic outgassing. You just need a couple drops and wait a couple minutes. If it doesn't break free a couple more drops and usually that's it. I use the sewing machine oil on all my CNC machines and things like squeaky hinges in the house where you don't want fumes. Really great made in America products by a small business. My wife has a little bottle of each now and takes care of the house squeaks without bothering me.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

What I want to know is: Who’s Paul?

That's a long, very complicated story sir.....

 

[fried1765]

I found out about it on the Forestry Forum. They make the log rite can't hook that I use and after all the posts about how good Blue Creeper works I decided to try it. Mostly for the low odor that is non toxic. Really amazed me by how little it takes to free up rusted items, especially things like lugnuts and no toxic outgassing. You just need a couple drops and wait a couple minutes. If it doesn't break free a couple more drops and usually that's it. I use the sewing machine oil on all my CNC machines and things like squeaky hinges in the house where you don't want fumes. Really great made in America products by a small business. My wife has a little bottle of each now and takes care of the house squeaks without bothering me.

My rust penetrant/release needs would very rarely require a no odor or toxicity product.
I do not use Kroil in any residential building.

 

[johnjk]

I’m doing brakes on my Ridgeline this weekend. After reading this, I’m hoping the air hammer is not required

 

[DustyRusty]

They make a sewing machine oil and it has a similar name. The penetration oil sells for $69.90 per gallon.
A 16 oz. refill bottle is $13.50 Take a look at their website. https://bluecreeper.com/

 

[fried1765]

They make a sewing machine oil and it has a similar name. The penetration oil sells for $69.90 per gallon.
A 16 oz. refill bottle is $13.50 Take a look at their website. https://bluecreeper.com/

Thanks for that.

I still have almost a quart of KROIL in my gallon can.
Probably enough for another 15-20 years.
My window for using it all would thus be 98- 103.
I think I m good!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I’m doing brakes on my Ridgeline this weekend. After reading this, I’m hoping the air hammer is not required

Be sure to use a quality silicone grease when reassembling and make sure the boots are not ripped.

I think that was my problem.

My theory is that I had rips in my boots and the grease "washed out".

It is possible that I forgot to grease that side though.

Good Luck, I'm sure it will turn out fine!

 

[johnjk]

Ive had good luck with the purple brake grease on the slide pins. I have some cheap brass brushes from HF I use in the bore if I have a sticky pin and it needs cleaned out. That and a lot of brake cleaner. No signs of uneven wear at 105k on the original front pads and rotors. Hopefully the worst part of it is getting that darn screw out of the rotor. Usually a #3 Phillips in the impact driver does the trick. If not, there’s always the drill bit.

 

[fried1765]

Ive had good luck with the purple brake grease on the slide pins. I have some cheap brass brushes from HF I use in the bore if I have a sticky pin and it needs cleaned out. That and a lot of brake cleaner. No signs of uneven wear at 105k on the original front pads and rotors. Hopefully the worst part of it is getting that darn screw out of the rotor. Usually a #3 Phillips in the impact driver does the trick. If not, there’s always the drill bit.

"the drill bit" ???
The left hand drill bit!

 

[johnjk]

"the drill bit" ???
The left hand drill bit!

No, I drill the top off the screw and then the rotor pops off. You can easily grab the remnants of the screw with pliers or fingers and extract easily. Usually the screw head has fused with the rotor and the threads in the hub are not a problem. If it starts to give me issues I just go to the drill. Not worth the time or effort to try and save them

 

[DustyRusty]

Have you ever heard of the product "Never Seize"? It keeps items from seizing together and it doesn't wash off ever.

 

[fried1765]

Have you ever heard of the product "Never Seize"? It keeps items from seizing together and it doesn't wash off ever.

Great stuff......unless you are trying to wash it off your hands with soap and water.
It also seems to have a natural tendency to jump off your hands,.... to then smear itself on anything within 10'

 

[D2Cat]

That's why many mechanics can't keep track of their 10mm sockets. The sockets are small, smooth and that anti-sieze on their hands!!

 

[johnjk]

Have you ever heard of the product "Never Seize"? It keeps items from seizing together and it doesn't wash off ever.

Sadly the factory did not use any anti seize during assembly. They did use a bit of thread locker though.

 

[DustyRusty]

I have found that many pieces of equipment have thread locker chemicals to hold the part in place. Sometimes I think it is an anti-tamper method also. Kubota snow blower gear boxes the fallen screws are held in place with a thread locker, and you need to warm them with a torch to get them out. The first time I experienced it I put a pipe on my Allen wrench to get enough leverage to break it loose. It also twisted the fallen wrench, but the Snap-On dealer replaced it. He also told me not to use a pipe on the wrench in the future. When a bolt or nut doesn't break loose using conventional tools I assume thread locker and out comes the torch to put some warmth on it.

 

[fried1765]

I have found that many pieces of equipment have thread locker chemicals to hold the part in place. Sometimes I think it is an anti-tamper method also. Kubota snow blower gear boxes the fallen screws are held in place with a thread locker, and you need to warm them with a torch to get them out. The first time I experienced it I put a pipe on my Allen wrench to get enough leverage to break it loose. It also twisted the fallen wrench, but the Snap-On dealer replaced it. He also told me not to use a pipe on the wrench in the future. When a bolt or nut doesn't break loose using conventional tools I assume thread locker and out comes the torch to put some warmth on it.

"He also told me not to use a pipe on the wrench"
That was an unknown?

 

[Showmedata]

Man, I haven't seen Kroil since the '70s when my Dad always kept it in the garage. I didn't know it was still available.

 

[D2Cat]

Man, I haven't seen Kroil since the '70s when my Dad always kept it in the garage. I didn't know it was still available.

It's available everywhere, almost. Ebay, Amazon, Home Depot......

KROIL Penetrating Oil Aerosol, Industrial-Grade Penetrant, Multi-Purpose Oil, AeroKroil, NSF H2,50-State VOC Compliant KS132 - The Home Depot

Perk up an absolute interior protection to your flooring with the selection of this affordable KROIL Penetrating Oil Aerosol IndustrialGrade Penetrant MultiPurpose Oil AeroKroil NSF H VOC Compliant and

www.homedepot.com

 

[GrizBota]

Ive had good luck with the purple brake grease on the slide pins. I have some cheap brass brushes from HF I use in the bore if I have a sticky pin and it needs cleaned out. That and a lot of brake cleaner. No signs of uneven wear at 105k on the original front pads and rotors. Hopefully the worst part of it is getting that darn screw out of the rotor. Usually a #3 Phillips in the impact driver does the trick. If not, there’s always the drill bit.

In case you didn’t know (somehow it took me until the last decade), the Japanese brands (Honda and Toyota) use “JIS” (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws that look like Phillips but really are not. If the head had a single dimple in it, it’s JIS and the right driver bit can really help not strip out the stubborn ones. Along with heat, lube and a whack or three.

 

[DustyRusty]

Japanese Industrial Standard screws and Phillips screws history.

Phillips Head vs JIS Screwdriver - Japanese Industrial Standard Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers are one of the most widely used tools around. Even if you’re not into DIY, you’ve probably got a screwdriver somewhere in your home. They’re the first tool that most people get, and often, they’re the start of a lifelong hobby in craft, carpentry, electronics, or DIY. Screwdrivers...

daitool.com