New (to me) B7100HST 4wd - All sorts of questions.

[Mumma]

Hey folks. Just bought my first tractor - B7100HST 4WD. Just about 1500 hours on it.

I have a whole MESS of questions and I'm just gonna throw some stuff out there in no particular order.

I have 3 fairly hilly, pretty heavily wooded acres, and wanted a small tractor to help clear brush and move firewood and such, and maintain about 125' of gravel driveway.

The previous owner gave me a workshop manual and a pile of receipts showing he spent A LOT of money doing major work.
I also found 2 different manuals online (how many different manuals are there?).

So far I've run the tractor for about 2 hours clearing brush and cutting trails with a rear grader blade. Seems to work quite well!

-------------------------

First question is about the tire sizes and the 4WD.... I've read pretty extensively a couple other posts about sizing the tires so the rolling circumference matches correctly... I'm STRUGGLING to wrap my head around the math and as well just understanding all the tire jargon (letters and numbers on the tires and such).
The tires that are on are:
Rear "29x12.5 - 15"
Front "A22 7-10 // 175/85-10"
(copied the designations best I could)

I measured the rolling circumference (RC) by marking the floor in the garage and marking the tires and doing 1 full revolution then measuring the distance between marks on the floor.
I got:
Rear 89.5"
Front 65"
or just about 1.377 ratio - I believe I read it was supposed to be closer to 1.42? Not sure if this is close enough. The previous owner says he left it in 4wd all the time. I've been just leaving it in 2wd unless I need the 4wd. It doesn't feel like it binds up but I don't know if I would be able to tell if it did.

-----------------------

Second question is about the 3 pt hitch.

I forgot to take a picture with the rear blade - but it looks to me like the top link might be too long? Even with it set to its shortest position the geometry looks off to me. Not sure if yall can tell from the pictures.

AND I can BARELY get the lower lift arms wide enough to fit the rear blade I have (5 foot). The "stabilizer" chains / turnbuckles that connect the lower lift arms to the center are BARELY long enough to be able to thread the turnbuckles.

I also have a pond scoop (ford brand - not sure the size) which seems slightly too big. I tried to hook it up and the lower arms just barely wont fit the width. I have seen some lift arms that have a bend in them that looks like it would add a couple of inches of width / clearance and I'm curious if that might be a remedy?

From memory - I believe the pond scoop connector pins are about 33" wide?

Totally understand if I may just be using implements that are a little too big for the tractor - was just curious if there may be minor adjustments / alterations that might help.

For the rear blade I may be able to reverse the pins to the inside to make it narrower - but it doesn't look possible for the scoop.

----------------------

Third question is about the front wheel mechanism.
The left side has some extra bolts in the assembly where the wheel bolts on / steering knuckle is. The right side is missing them and there appears to be no place to put them on the right side.

Just curious what they are for!
(pictures are attached).

--------------------

Couple other random pics just because!

Thanks in advance! Looking forward to tractoring!

 

[fried1765]

Hey folks. Just bought my first tractor - B7100HST 4WD. Just about 1500 hours on it.

View attachment 127314

I have a whole MESS of questions and I'm just gonna throw some stuff out there in no particular order.

I have 3 fairly hilly, pretty heavily wooded acres, and wanted a small tractor to help clear brush and move firewood and such, and maintain about 125' of gravel driveway.

The previous owner gave me a workshop manual and a pile of receipts showing he spent A LOT of money doing major work.
I also found 2 different manuals online (how many different manuals are there?).

So far I've run the tractor for about 2 hours clearing brush and cutting trails with a rear grader blade. Seems to work quite well!

-------------------------

First question is about the tire sizes and the 4WD.... I've read pretty extensively a couple other posts about sizing the tires so the rolling circumference matches correctly... I'm STRUGGLING to wrap my head around the math and as well just understanding all the tire jargon (letters and numbers on the tires and such).
The tires that are on are:
Rear "29x12.5 - 15"
Front "A22 7-10 // 175/85-10"
(copied the designations best I could)

I measured the rolling circumference (RC) by marking the floor in the garage and marking the tires and doing 1 full revolution then measuring the distance between marks on the floor.
I got:
Rear 89.5"
Front 65"
or just about 1.377 ratio - I believe I read it was supposed to be closer to 1.42? Not sure if this is close enough. The previous owner says he left it in 4wd all the time. I've been just leaving it in 2wd unless I need the 4wd. It doesn't feel like it binds up but I don't know if I would be able to tell if it did.

-----------------------

Second question is about the 3 pt hitch.

View attachment 127315

I forgot to take a picture with the rear blade - but it looks to me like the top link might be too long? Even with it set to its shortest position the geometry looks off to me. Not sure if yall can tell from the pictures.

AND I can BARELY get the lower lift arms wide enough to fit the rear blade I have (5 foot). The "stabilizer" chains / turnbuckles that connect the lower lift arms to the center are BARELY long enough to be able to thread the turnbuckles.

I also have a pond scoop (ford brand - not sure the size) which seems slightly too big. I tried to hook it up and the lower arms just barely wont fit the width. I have seen some lift arms that have a bend in them that looks like it would add a couple of inches of width / clearance and I'm curious if that might be a remedy?

From memory - I believe the pond scoop connector pins are about 33" wide?

Totally understand if I may just be using implements that are a little too big for the tractor - was just curious if there may be minor adjustments / alterations that might help.

For the rear blade I may be able to reverse the pins to the inside to make it narrower - but it doesn't look possible for the scoop.

----------------------

Third question is about the front wheel mechanism.
The left side has some extra bolts in the assembly where the wheel bolts on / steering knuckle is. The right side is missing them and there appears to be no place to put them on the right side.

Just curious what they are for!
(pictures are attached).
View attachment 127318
View attachment 127317

--------------------

Couple other random pics just because!

View attachment 127319

View attachment 127320

View attachment 127321

Thanks in advance! Looking forward to tractoring!

Congratulations!
Nice, clean looking older machine!
This being your first tractor, you will likely eventually decide that you WANT a loader.
When that time comes,......make a wise decision, to buy a DIFFERENT tractor WITH a loader.
Retrofitting an older tractor with a loader, is usually not even close to being cost effective.
Happy tractoring!

 

[ken erickson]

Others will verify but there are two different runs of B7100 HST's. I believe yours is the first run. Do you have 4 or 6 lug bolts for the front wheels? 6 lug is the second run. I would guess that is a reason your finding two different manuals.

After looking closer it does look as if yours might be the second run.

I am pretty sure the two bolts with jam nuts are the steering stops and reason only one side needs them.

I have found that standard Cat 1 implements really push the limits of my lower lift arms to get wide enough. "limited Cat 1 " such as the King Kutter XP line fits much better. That being said I have run standard Cat 1 implements just fine, a 6 foot blade and 4 foot rotary cutter.

Any idea why the OEM air filter and canister has been replaced? I can not see from your pictures but it does have a air filter correct?

 

[Mumma]

Others will verify but there are two different runs of B7100 HST's. I believe yours is the first run. Do you have 4 or 6 lug bolts for the front wheels? 6 lug is the second run. I would guess that is a reason your finding two different manuals.

I am pretty sure the two bolts with jam nuts are the steering stops and reason only one side needs them.

I have found that standard Cat 1 implements really push the limits of my lower lift arms to get wide enough. "limited Cat 1 " such as the King Kutter XP line fits much better. That being said I have run standard Cat 1 implements just fine, a 6 foot blade and 4 foot rotary cutter.

Any idea why the OEM air filter and canister has been replaced? I can not see from your pictures but it does have a air filter correct?

4 bolts for the wheels! Forgot to mention that.

Steering stops - got it - will have to look closer at that and see if I can make sense of it.

Not exactly sure why the air filter was replaced - but I would like to get the OEM style setup put on at some point.

It has a K&N filter on.

Thanks so much for the input!

 

[ken erickson]

I took the liberty of cropping your photo and adding a blue line to show where the front steering stop bolt hits the casting on the front axle.

 

[Mumma]

I took the liberty of cropping your photo and adding a blue line to show where the front steering stop bolt hits the casting on the front axle.

View attachment 127325

OH!
That is awesome and makes total sense!

 

[ken erickson]

Looking at your 3pt picture it looks as if your top link is a aftermarket. Perhaps it is not the same length as OEM. I have a late model B7100 HST with OEM top link with it being handy so if you need a length I can measure it for you .

Your check chains/turnbuckles look different than the style that I have on mine so they may be aftermarket also.

These factors might be whats causing you problems hooking up implements.

NOTE; I hate giving wrong information and there are some folks here that know a TON more than I as to the variations in the B7100 series tractors. Hopefully they will wade in and correct me if needed.

 

[old and tired]

I'll add that the reason you don't have stops on the other side of the front axle, is that both "stops" are on the left side.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes the top link is too long, you can get shorter links I think you need a 14" long link.
If you get a standard top link you will need to narrow the top eye just slightly to fit in the mount on the tractor side.
Just take a grinder and take a little off each side.

Looks like the bottom check links have been updated with aftermarket links and are just simply too short.
You can fix that by adding a clevis or a link to the arm side of the check chains.

That tool bar that they have on it is a Cat 0 toolbar, which is much narrower than cat 1.
You can use Cat 1 tools and implements on your tractor.

For the tires, on a flat hard surface put it in 4wd and rane in neutral and push the tractor, it should go a distance without binding.

 

[Russell King]

A few more comments on your 3 point issues:
Where the turnbuckles attach to the tractor near the PTO there is a pin that attaches to the tractor. That pin has some sort of keeper (cotter pin or hair pin). The original pin probably used something that was easy to remove like a hair pin keeper. Pulling that and removing the pin will allow you to spread the arms wider and narrower to get them onto the implement. Then adjust the turnbuckles a little long and install the pin and keeper pin and adjust the turnbuckle as needed.

And as you say turning the implement pins inward usually helps.

You can go to illustrated parts lists at Messicks or Kubota USA dot com

 

[Mumma]

TONS of great advice thanks!
It turns out my top link is QUITE long so I'm going to replace it - and I think the idea of just adding a clevis on each side of the check chains to add a little length will do the trick !

I think I can also widen the rear wheels by 1 more adjustment point and that might help get a liiiiiitle more width out of the lower arms.

Trying to decide what to do about my over sized pond scoop. The pins that the lift arms attach to are welded on to the outside, so I can't easily swap them to the inside. It MAY be too big of a scoop for my little tractor anyway? I read that the max lift for the 3 pt is only 400 lbs? I feel like the scoop itself must be half that....
When I have more time this weekend i'll probably try and mess with it and get some more pictures.
Thinking I might try cutting off the old pins and drilling them out and installing some bolt type pins that point inward... hmmm...

ALSO thinking about a set of "offset" lower arms - seems like that would help them get around the wider implements.
Are the tractor supply / amazon ones total garbage?

 

[ken erickson]

I read that the max lift for the 3 pt is only 400 lbs?

Without getting my owners manual out for my late model B7100 HST that sounds right in the ball park.

The heaviest 3pt implement I have used on mine is the King Kutter standard duty domed 4ft rotary cutter which depending on source is listed at about 425 lbs. My tractor never had trouble lifting it but it sure made the front end feel like I had power steering when it was up! (no front weights).


I think when you get your tractor sorted your going to really like it. Personally I think the build quality on things like the fit up and finish, the operating levers etc is better than my L2501 hst purchased new in late 2019.

This might be over the top but I would have loved to walk in to a Kubota dealer when these machines were brand new sitting in the showroom!

 

[old and tired]

I wonder instead of buying a shorter top link, buy Pat's Quick Hitch system to add 4" length to the lower lift arms?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

TONS of great advice thanks!
It turns out my top link is QUITE long so I'm going to replace it - and I think the idea of just adding a clevis on each side of the check chains to add a little length will do the trick !
View attachment 127368

I think I can also widen the rear wheels by 1 more adjustment point and that might help get a liiiiiitle more width out of the lower arms.

Trying to decide what to do about my over sized pond scoop. The pins that the lift arms attach to are welded on to the outside, so I can't easily swap them to the inside. It MAY be too big of a scoop for my little tractor anyway? I read that the max lift for the 3 pt is only 400 lbs? I feel like the scoop itself must be half that....
When I have more time this weekend i'll probably try and mess with it and get some more pictures.
Thinking I might try cutting off the old pins and drilling them out and installing some bolt type pins that point inward... hmmm...

ALSO thinking about a set of "offset" lower arms - seems like that would help them get around the wider implements.
Are the tractor supply / amazon ones total garbage?

Offset arms won't help you as you will just hit the tires.
Remove the check chains and spread the arms to their wides point and give me that width.

While adding pat's Quick hitches will move it back it will also lower the lift strength more than it's worth.

 

[D2Cat]

If you have a use for the dirt scoop you could easily cut a few inches out of the center modify the support bracket and weld it back together. Make it any width you choose. Kubota did make some small ones. Maybe find someone to trade on FB-MP.

 

[Mumma]

Sorry for the long delay in response! Life is so busy (finishing building a house and working so many projects at once.).

I am finally doing some work on the tractor today. Replaced the top link with the correct length (and did indeed have to grind the eyelet to fit into the bracket - despite the previous owner bending the bracket haha.

I've added a clevis to the check chains to increase their reach a bit, and I am experimenting with trying to widen the wheels to accommodate the width of the pond scoop i want to use.

I pulled the wheels off and it looks like I am on the middle of the 3 width adjustment holes on the hexagonal axle. I thought of moving to the outermost - but then also though about just reversing the wheels?
The way they are shaped, flipping them to opposite sides adds considerable width, and also makes the valve stem accessible on the outside.

Is this an acceptable practice?

With it setup this way I can get the lower arms a full 36" of spread without too much trouble!

This was how they were:

This is reversed:

OR should I also flip the assembly that goes over the axle and has the pin/spring-bolt?

.....Continuing work and will make sure I get back to respond to everyone soon!

Thanks!

 

[mcmxi]

Sorry for the long delay in response! Life is so busy (finishing building a house and working so many projects at once.).

I am finally doing some work on the tractor today. Replaced the top link with the correct length (and did indeed have to grind the eyelet to fit into the bracket - despite the previous owner bending the bracket haha.
View attachment 128023

I've added a clevis to the check chains to increase their reach a bit, and I am experimenting with trying to widen the wheels to accommodate the width of the pond scoop i want to use.
View attachment 128024


I pulled the wheels off and it looks like I am on the middle of the 3 width adjustment holes on the hexagonal axle. I thought of moving to the outermost - but then also though about just reversing the wheels?
The way they are shaped, flipping them to opposite sides adds considerable width, and also makes the valve stem accessible on the outside.

Is this an acceptable practice?

With it setup this way I can get the lower arms a full 36" of spread without too much trouble!

This was how they were:
View attachment 128025

This is reversed:
View attachment 128026


OR should I also flip the assembly that goes over the axle and has the pin/spring-bolt?

.....Continuing work and will make sure I get back to respond to everyone soon!

Thanks!

Swapping the wheel centers around is a common practice and something I've done on both tractors to get the look and performance that I want. If you did flip the rim around, did you remember to move the wheel to the opposite side of the tractor. I have some experience with forgetting to do that in the heat of battle. Luckily I realized my screw up before I repeated my screw up. It made a tough job a lot harder though.

Exhibit A your honor!

 

[Mumma]

Swapping the wheel centers around is a common practice and something I've done on both tractors to get the look and performance that I want. If you did flip the rim around, did you remember to move the wheel to the opposite side of the tractor. I have some experience with forgetting to do that in the heat of battle. Luckily I realized my screw up before I repeated my screw up. It made a tough job a lot harder though.

Exhibit A your honor!

View attachment 128027

Haha yeah! I did switch the wheel to the opposite side so that the tread would be going the correct way.
So it sounds like I can flip the rims without also flipping the wheel center bits?

 

[mcmxi]

Haha yeah! I did switch the wheel to the opposite side so that the tread would be going the correct way.
So it sounds like I can flip the rims without also flipping the wheel center bits?

I should have hired you to swap my M6060 wheels around and put on wheel weights!

By the way, that's a really cool tractor. I like the boxy look of those older Kubotas. They look very utilitarian which appeals to me.

I might be misunderstanding your question, but the centers on my tractor wheels are bolted to the rim so the wheel is four-way adjustable. Your wheel centers look to be spot welded to the rim so flipping them and swapping sides appears to be the right approach.

Here's an M6060 rim with a bolted center.

 

[Mumma]

I should have hired you to swap my M6060 wheels around and put on wheel weights!

The centers on my tractor wheels are bolted to the rim so the wheel is four-way adjustable. Your wheel centers look to be spot welded to the rim so flipping them and swapping sides appears to be the right approach.

The wheel centers are actually removable - I would have to hammer out the lug bolts it looks like to switch them around though (otherwise the lug nuts would be on the inside!). If it is all the same and just reversing the rims is fine I may just do it that way.