Z421 60" deck with play in one spindle

[erkme73]

First post here. Please go easy. I have the subject zero turn that has a spindle making a lot of noise (sounds like the blade is loose). After closer examination, there is a small amount of play in the shaft. The bearing holder looks fine externally, but I'm guessing that the bearings are on their way out. The other two have no play/noise.

Looking everywhere on line, I cannot seem to find an entire spindle assembly - unlike every other mower manufacturer out there, apparently. I'd love to avoid pressing out the bearing and rebuilding it myself - though I will if that's the only option.

Has anyone gone through this before? I'm the second owner, and the unit is a 2020.

The deck PN is RCK60P-400Z.

 

[Mowbizz]

Here for answers! I have the Z422 but no problems so far. It’s a ‘023 model and 54” deck. You reminded me to open the shed and get her serviced for the upcoming season!

 

[D2Cat]

I've been "through it" before and can't imagine why you want to avoid pressing out the bearing and rebuilding it yourself. To fix or replace the spindle bearings you have to clean around the work area and remove the bolts holding it in place. You can then remove/replace the bearings on each end of the shaft.

It's actually a good lesson for proper maintenance. You discover the space between the upper and lower bearing is void of grease until "someone" fills it with grease. Probably overlooked in most case. If that cavity is not filled with grease and owner puts a couple pumps in the zert every once in a while grease will not get to the lower bearing eventually.


If you don't want to remove the bearings I'd suggest taking the deck to a dealer and let him solve the problem.

 

[erkme73]

I've been "through it" before and can't imagine why you want to avoid pressing out the bearing and rebuilding it yourself. To fix or replace the spindle bearings you have to clean around the work area and remove the bolts holding it in place. You can then remove/replace the bearings on each end of the shaft.

If you don't want to remove the bearings I'd suggest taking the deck to a dealer and let him solve the problem.

No, you're right. I just have so many other projects on my plate - I was hoping to avoid the added load. On the upside, it'll help me justify more tools for the barn.

I watched a few videos where the bearings just fell out - and others where they had to use a press - which I don't have (yet).

But, to give you an idea of how my luck goes, I just called the local dealer to inquire about warranty, and they ran my serial number. Warranty expired on 4/10/24. I kid you not. This is how I roll... haha. If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all!

 

[lynnmor]

No, you're right. I just have so many other projects on my plate - I was hoping to avoid the added load. On the upside, it'll help me justify more tools for the barn.

I watched a few videos where the bearings just fell out - and others where they had to use a press - which I don't have (yet).

But, to give you an idea of how my luck goes, I just called the local dealer to inquire about warranty, and they ran my serial number. Warranty expired on 4/10/24. I kid you not. This is how I roll... haha. If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all!

It would have taken less time to tap out a pair of $15 bearings that it took to watch the videos. Simple job and you don't really need much for tools.

 

[D2Cat]

I'd approach the dealer with the idea it's been rattling around since last fall, and ask for some leeway. If you know one of the principles of the business you may get a favorable response.

You don't NEED a press, only a three jaw puller (and time, of course).

 

[erkme73]

I'd approach the dealer with the idea it's been rattling around since last fall, and ask for some leeway. If you know one of the principles of the business you may get a favorable response.

You don't NEED a press, only a three jaw puller (and time, of course).

Eh, if it's really that simple as is being stated above, I'm ok with doing it myself vs. taking it to the dealer (2hr RT). I'll pull the spindle today and see if the damage is limited to the bearings.

These posts have given me the confidence to just jump in and do it myself.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yeesh, I just use a big, long bolt to get bearings out. Put spindle in vice, put bolt in 'back side' of spindle, whack the bolt 9 and 3 oclock, 3-4 sets of taps, out it comes.....then do other bearing, same thing..
5 minutes easy labour vs cost of a WHOLE 'spindle assembly'.....

 

[Mowbizz]

Eh, if it's really that simple as is being stated above, I'm ok with doing it myself vs. taking it to the dealer (2hr RT). I'll pull the spindle today and see if the damage is limited to the bearings.

These posts have given me the confidence to just jump in and do it myself.

Post pics of your bearing job!

 

[D2Cat]

Eh, if it's really that simple as is being stated above, I'm ok with doing it myself vs. taking it to the dealer (2hr RT). I'll pull the spindle today and see if the damage is limited to the bearings.

These posts have given me the confidence to just jump in and do it myself.

There is nothing else to go bad unless the housing is wallered out and t he bearing won't stay in place!

 

[erkme73]

There is nothing else to go bad unless the housing is wallered out and t he bearing won't stay in place!

Looks like that's not the case. May just pick up a holder as a spare. Along with a couple extra bearings. Was easy to get out. Dangit, there goes my justification for another Harbor Freight visit...

 

[Flintknapper]

Looks like that's not the case. May just pick up a holder as a spare. Along with a couple extra bearings. Was easy to get out. Dangit, there goes my justification for another Harbor Freight visit...

View attachment 126865 View attachment 126866 View attachment 126867 View attachment 126868

Yes, very simple spindle in your case. It uses a caged, ball bearing (and looks to have double seals) so no provision (or possibility) of being greased. When its done....its done.

Some spindles use a tapered roller bearing and race....and require you to replace the race along with the bearing and certain 'preload' applied when installing new bearings.

If your housing is not damaged.....just replace the bearings. However....I would advise doing the other spindles as well (if they look to be original).

The bearings in the other spindles can't be 'far behind' the one you removed.

 

[erkme73]

Yes, very simple spindle in your case. It uses a caged, ball bearing (and looks to have double seals) so no provision (or possibility) of being greased. When its done....its done.

Some spindles use a tapered roller bearing and race....and require you to replace the race along with the bearing and certain 'preload' applied when installing new bearings.

If your housing is not damaged.....just replace the bearings. However....I would advise doing the other spindles as well (if they look to be original).

The bearings in the other spindles can't be 'far behind' the one you removed.

I'm glad you brought that up actually. I have less than 100 hours on this mower. When I told the dealer that, they said that it was probably a fluke and not to change out the other two. Now you have me doubting myself.

 

[Flintknapper]

I'm glad you brought that up actually. I have less than 100 hours on this mower. When I told the dealer that, they said that it was probably a fluke and not to change out the other two. Now you have me doubting myself.

"Fluke'......maybe.

I would be inclined to agree that 100 hrs. on a properly made sealed bearing is nothing.

BUT....in the picture, I can clearly see 'CHINA' on the metal seal of the one bearing, so that tells me all I need to know. Replace them all with good quality bearings and you'll be good to go for years to come.

 

[erkme73]

Good point. You have any experience with a particular brand that isn't Chinese, or has exceptional reliability?

 

[Flintknapper]

Good point. You have any experience with a particular brand that isn't Chinese, or has exceptional reliability?

Timken, NSK. There are others.

It isn't that products made in China can't be of good quality, it just depends on what the manufacturing 'specs' were and IF they were followed.

But the market is awash with 'fakes' from China and many companies these days will use inferior products from China to keep costs down (and profits up).

If the product will last just beyond the warranty period, then they are off the hook.

That said, there is a place for cheaper materials in certain products and circumstances. But if you plan to keep your equipment for a long time and need reliability....I would recommend you rebuild the spindles with good quality bearings and enjoy the longevity.

When you consider the many thousands of revolutions a spindle bearing is subjected to during a normal mowing session....it makes sense to use good materials.

 

[lynnmor]

Good point. You have any experience with a particular brand that isn't Chinese, or has exceptional reliability?

I have similar spindles as you on a Country Clipper. It had 6205RST bearings that I replaced with Timken 6205ZZ. I know that it wasn't the best since the ZZ bearings have only metal shields and the RST has rubber and metal, but I was down and couldn't get the other for some time. It will be good for a while and I will replace all later in the year. At least they were not Chinese.

 

[Flintknapper]

I have similar spindles as you on a Country Clipper. It had 6205RST bearings that I replaced with Timken 6205ZZ. I know that it wasn't the best since the ZZ bearings have only metal shields and the RST has rubber and metal, but I was down and couldn't get the other for some time. It will be good for a while and I will replace all later in the year. At least they were not Chinese.

Metal shielded bearings are great depending on application, but a bearing with at least one rubber/poly shield can be serviced.

The seal can be removed...the bearing re-greased and the seal carefully replaced....if one is so inclined.

A good caged, ball bearing should last many hundreds of hours. More than the average person (non commercial) will put on a mower in several seasons.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Many drill the spindle to add a zerk, then pop off the 'inner' bearing seals. Allows you to add grease 'as required'.
One bearing will wear faster. Whichever gets the 'engage torque'.

 

[lugbolt]

Many drill the spindle to add a zerk, then pop off the 'inner' bearing seals. Allows you to add grease 'as required'.
One bearing will wear faster. Whichever gets the 'engage torque'.

and when the person washes the mower off, water (and dirt/grass/poo/etc) get into the grease, corrodes and contaminates the grease, and the bearings go south anyway.

Seen it many, many times. That's the main reason manufacturers stopped putting grease fittings on mower spindles that use radial ball bearings.

Radial ball bearings aren't the "best" choice, but they are. THey don't like a lot of axial loading which they get quite a bit of in a rotary mower application. So when you're shopping for a 6206 for your mower (or whatever it takes), look at the radial and axial load capacity-if you can find them that have a high axial load capacity, those generally last longer.

I generally get about 200 hours out of a set, but it's just a ZG127S with RCK54P-127Z deck. I also found something interesting with them. The spindle housings on mine are machined erratically, and the spacers as well. For instance when I assemble everything there is some up/down play in the assembly after tightening the nut. One spindle had a tight set of bearings, because the spacer was TOO short, preloading the bearings (which isn't good on radial ball bearings and they WILL fail prematurely). The whole bearing/spacer assembly moves up /down in the housing. SO I had to go in and machine the spacers just a little and then "shim" the bearing to get a tiny bit of "play" (.005 max). You don't want them preloaded, but you don't want them flopping loose either. A few thousandths is fine. This was an issue with some other brands and possibly with kubota although in a service department atmosphere, they want you to do the job, quickly, and move on-so accurate measuring was usually "out the window" so long as the parts were new. If they were new, they were "in spec" according to the SM and kubota-but often were not. Just manufacturing tolerances; nobody's perfect.

My attention to the little detail also netted a little better quality cut as well.