'16 Kubota 5660SUHD - Not Starting - Sitting for two years

[Gweesh]

I have a 5660SU that has been sitting for two years and am attempting to start with no luck.

Here is what I've done so far:

-Drained fuel tank, Had gunk in the plastic splitter on lower tank hose keeping it from draining. Cleared out.

-Followed line to Fuel strainer, intake port of Strainer was clogged, cleared it out and got good fuel flow.

-No Fuel to injectors, loosened injector Fuel line, still no fuel.

-Traced back to fuel filter, Filter IS filling up with fuel, I did bleed out the air as well

I've yet to tear into the main Injector pump, and am wondering If someone has done this before. Could the Injector pump be seized up? I read there Is a Shutoff Valve that is prone to getting stuck? I assume the junk I have found downstream in the lines kind of indicate the finer tolerance components might be gummed up as well?

To summarize, No fuel Is getting to Injectors, Fuel is getting from Tank to Fuel filter, Further than that I am not certain where I should look before tearing into larger parts. The Engine Is turning over fine and I can hear the round fuel pump working and It has decent pressure.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have a 5660SU that has been sitting for two years and am attempting to start with no luck.

Here is what I've done so far:

-Drained fuel tank, Had gunk in the plastic splitter on lower tank hose keeping it from draining. Cleared out.

-Followed line to Fuel strainer, intake port of Strainer was clogged, cleared it out and got good fuel flow.

-No Fuel to injectors, loosened injector Fuel line, still no fuel.

-Traced back to fuel filter, Filter IS filling up with fuel, I did bleed out the air as well

I've yet to tear into the main Injector pump, and am wondering If someone has done this before. Could the Injector pump be seized up? I read there Is a Shutoff Valve that is prone to getting stuck? I assume the junk I have found downstream in the lines kind of indicate the finer tolerance components might be gummed up as well?

To summarize, No fuel Is getting to Injectors, Fuel is getting from Tank to Fuel filter, Further than that I am not certain where I should look before tearing into larger parts. The Engine Is turning over fine and I can hear the round fuel pump working and It has decent pressure.

You need to take a step back.
This is an Electronically controlled fuel injection system.
It does not follow the rules of a mechanical fuel injection system.
The pumps that control the fuel are VERY EXPENSIVE and VERY PRECISE.
These are not pump you randomly take apart and tinker with.
There is no shut off or stop solenoid on these types of fuel systems.

First get the WSM and read how to troubleshoot the system.
You will notice that at some point in that troubleshooting process it going to tell you to take it to a dealer, follow it.
Venturing past that point will normally just end up costing you a ton of money!
Look at the dash for codes, those codes will tell you what's not happening.
follow the WSM to see what steps are needed to fix the issue.

 

[Gweesh]

You need to take a step back.
This is an Electronically controlled fuel injection system.
It does not follow the rules of a mechanical fuel injection system.
The pumps that control the fuel are VERY EXPENSIVE and VERY PRECISE.
These are not pump you randomly take apart and tinker with.
There is no shut off or stop solenoid on these types of fuel systems.

First get the WSM and read how to troubleshoot the system.
You will notice that at some point in that troubleshooting process it going to tell you to take it to a dealer, follow it.
Venturing past that point will normally just end up costing you a ton of money!
Look at the dash for codes, those codes will tell you what's not happening.
follow the WSM to see what steps are needed to fix the issue.

Thank you for the info, I will look at the WSM. The dealer said it was mostly likely the pump, they quoted me $4k for just the pump, so I was searching for other options first.

 

[DustyRusty]

The price of storage can get very expensive. If you are not going to use a tractor for a few years, have the dealer prepare it for long-term storage or post a note on the calendar to go out and start it every month. The same thing happens with old car collections, they sit for a couple of years and then it is expensive to get them running again.

 

[fried1765]

The price of storage can get very expensive. If you are not going to use a tractor for a few years, have the dealer prepare it for long-term storage or post a note on the calendar to go out and start it every month. The same thing happens with old car collections, they sit for a couple of years and then it is expensive to get them running again.

Generally good advice, but......
I leave 2 cars, and 3 tractors alone for 6 months each year while I am in Florida, and have never had an issue.
I do keep a battery maintainer on all batteries.
I did not start my Ford 8N for 9 years.
It needed a battery, fresh gas, points filed, and a new condenser.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thank you for the info, I will look at the WSM. The dealer said it was mostly likely the pump, they quoted me $4k for just the pump, so I was searching for other options first.

Ok you can try this at your own risk, I assume Zero responsibility... Unless it works.

First make sure you are getting fuel to the pump input, (RED) just crack the banjo bolt and check.
If you are then pull the SCV out and clean it (BLUE).
Check all fuses.
You might need to reset the computer, The WSM should tell you how to reset most codes.

 

[Gweesh]

Ok you can try this at your own risk, I assume Zero responsibility... Unless it works.

First make sure you are getting fuel to the pump input, (RED) just crack the banjo bolt and check.
If you are then pull the SCV out and clean it (BLUE).
Check all fuses.
You might need to reset the computer, The WSM should tell you how to reset most codes.

Thank you sir, I will try this and report back.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thank you sir, I will try this and report back.

It would have helped if I actually posted the picture with the notes.

 

[whitetiger]

It would have helped if I actually posted the picture with the notes.

Whheeeeewwwwww, I thought I had missed something or was having puter trouble!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Whheeeeewwwwww, I thought I had missed something or was having puter trouble!!

Senior moment, and I'm not a senior quite yet!

 

[Gweesh]

Ok you can try this at your own risk, I assume Zero responsibility... Unless it works.

First make sure you are getting fuel to the pump input, (RED) just crack the banjo bolt and check.
If you are then pull the SCV out and clean it (BLUE).
Check all fuses.
You might need to reset the computer, The WSM should tell you how to reset most codes.

Did all above and still no fuel to injector lines.

I have diesel coming out of Red Input line, not high pressure but it is flowing.

Pulled SCV and blew it out. I Also noticed when turning engine over fuel does seep out of SCV hole.

I measured resistance of SVC @2.9ohms it says in the book it needs to be 2.1ohms?

I also measured the SCV pigtail voltage, it is at 8.45 volts WSM says its supposed to be battery voltage or around 12v.

Haven't found out how to clear codes yet, display does not show any at the moment.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: I measured resistance of SVC @2.9ohms it says in the book it needs to be 2.1ohms?

Did you measure what the resistance was when you shorted the two probe leads ?
You need to subtract that from your 2.9 reading...

 

[Gweesh]

re: I measured resistance of SVC @2.9ohms it says in the book it needs to be 2.1ohms?

Did you measure what the resistance was when you shorted the two probe leads ?
You need to subtract that from your 2.9 reading...

In that case it's 2.8 ohms. So could the difference from 2.1 to 2.8 keep it from functioning properly? I took it off and it does function when key is turned on although sounds odd while activated?
I'll order the SCV and see of thats the problem.

Again, I measured the voltage from the pigtail and it read 8.45 volts, I think it needs to be 12v? Hopefully the ECU is not fried.

So far... I can't seem to get fuel passed the fuel rail.

 

[DustyRusty]

Throwing parts at a problem without understanding if the part is defective or not is a waste of money and time. Sure you might get lucky and it will solve your issue, but more than likely it will not. If you don't understand the systems and have a working knowledge of the tractor systems then you will save money by having someone familiar with Kubota repairs fix the problem for you. Changing parts can introduce many other problems that you might not know about, and if it is an electrical problem you can do more damage than the original part. If you broke your ankle would you try to set the bones yourself or would you go to someone that knows what they are doing who will set the bones correctly the first time?

 

[Gweesh]

Throwing parts at a problem without understanding if the part is defective or not is a waste of money and time. Sure you might get lucky and it will solve your issue, but more than likely it will not. If you don't understand the systems and have a working knowledge of the tractor systems then you will save money by having someone familiar with Kubota repairs fix the problem for you. Changing parts can introduce many other problems that you might not know about, and if it is an electrical problem you can do more damage than the original part. If you broke your ankle would you try to set the bones yourself or would you go to someone that knows what they are doing who will set the bones correctly the first time?

Great point! Thanks for the input, I believe that's what I'm trying to do; lean on some of you here who may know a thing or two about the systems or may even had this problem before.
If you look at previous posts I'm trying to deduce what might be the problem before bringing in the big guns.

 

[Gweesh]

I did contact the local Kubota shop today and they said i might simply need to tighten everything up and crack a single injector at a time and keep cranking until I see fuel.

 

[Gweesh]

Update, I had injectors cleaned and the Supply pump inspected by a local shop and they said both looked good. He recommended unplugging SCV pigtail to see If I would get fuel to the rails, I did get fuel! It will still not start. so, with that It seems the SCV Is working just shutting off fuel for some reason?
I did notice the glow plug emblem not showing up on dash, going to look into that.

 

[Gweesh]

just unplugged the thermostat sensor and the glow plug light seemed to cycle as normal.

 

[Gweesh]

**Solved**
I've fixed the tractor! It was a faulty ECU.

I took it to the Kubota dealer to read any problem codes and they could not get it to communicate with the original engine ECU. They connected a spare ECU they had and got a code for the fuel rail and SCV valve(pressure out of range).

One thing I did notice is that it never had any fault codes on the onboard LCD screen, but it DID have a problem light.
*picture attached*

So, I took it home and installed a new Kubota fuel rail and SCV valve from Oregon Fuel Injection; then took it back to the dealer to put on the ECU and program it.

If I had the dealer do all the work it would have been ~$8600. I did it for a little less than half that.
-New ECU and Labor was $3465
-Used a Fuel Injection shop in town to source all the Bosch parts.

Hope this helps someone in the future!