Add 2nd rear remote or current one have float?

[tsmithco]

I've got a L5740 HST ROPS, and it's got 1 rear remote. I *think* that its not float - but I don't have anything to hookup to it currently. using the lever when the tractor is off it just goes foward and back - no float catch. (would it only catch if there was flow?)

I'm looking at a manure spreader where the web is controlled with the rear hydraulics. Looking at diagrams for the Float valve, it's got a long round cylinder at the bottom - and that's what my 1st position has!

so 2 questions - is my 1st position have float so I can use the hydraulic web as is?
or, if I need to add a second position, what part(s) are needed to order?

Thanks!

 

[mcmxi]

I have both float and self cancelling rear remotes on both tractors and you can feel the detent and lock the lever in float without hydraulic flow. So if your lever won't lock to one side then you surely have the self cancelling type. Go to Messicks.com and search for what you need, based on your model of tractor. But fear not, there are some very knowledgeable members here when it comes to all things hydraulic and no doubt they will sort it out for you.

Kubota L5740HST-3 (Hydrostatic Transmission/Rops / 2010 -) Parts Diagrams

Kubota Parts Catalog Lookup. Buy Kubota Parts Online & Save!

www.messicks.com

Your rear remote does look like it's the floating type though with part number YW361-00103

As compared to the SCD version.

 

[tsmithco]

I have both float and self cancelling rear remotes on both tractors and you can feel the detent and lock the lever in float without hydraulic flow. So if your lever won't lock to one side then you surely have the self cancelling type. Go to Messicks.com and search for what you need, based on your model of tractor.

Kubota L5740HST-3 (Hydrostatic Transmission/Rops / 2010 -) Parts Diagrams

Kubota Parts Catalog Lookup. Buy Kubota Parts Online & Save!

www.messicks.com

Your rear remote does look like it's the floating type though with part number YW361-00103

View attachment 123845

As compared to the SCD version.

View attachment 123846

Thanks. Is the dentent a part of the lever or the valve? (As in if the valve is already float is it just the wrong lever?)

 

[mcmxi]

Thanks. Is the dentent a part of the lever or the valve? (As in if the valve is already float is it just the wrong lever?)

I'm 99.9% sure that the float detent is in the valve body. When it comes to levers, they're ordered based on where they sit in the tractor i.e. position 1, 2 or 3 and are typically sequential.

So your first lever is TD170-96563
The second lever is TD170-96573
The third lever is TD170-96583

The regular SCD valve is YW362-00102
The float detent valve is YW361-00103

All of this information is worth what you paid for it, but if your tractor is an L5740HST ROPS 2010 or newer it should be good information according to Messicks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That is a float valve that you have as the detent section is differnt between the 2.

NON Float

Float detent, same as yours.
If it's not locking into float the detent might need to be repaired.

 

[mcmxi]

That is a float valve that you have as the detent section is differnt between the 2.

NON Float

View attachment 123847

Float detent, same as yours.
If it's not locking into float the detent might need to be repaired.

View attachment 123848

I wondered that too, i.e. if there's something wrong with the valve, or if the op isn't moving the lever far enough to the rear to have it lock in the detent position. As I mentioned, the FD valves in both of my tractors will lock out without any hydraulic flow.

I actually have two FD rear remotes in the M6060. It came standard with one, the dealer in Sheridan, WY added a second FD and I had the local dealer add a third FD once I got the tractor home.

 

[tsmithco]

I wondered that too, i.e. if there's something wrong with the valve, or if the op isn't moving the lever far enough to the rear to have it lock in the detent position. As I mentioned, the FD valves in both of my tractors will lock out without any hydraulic flow.

Thanks. I’ll investigate more. I moved the lever as far as it would go in both directions. (Which is only about 1” before it’s the end of the plastic opening).

I’ve not used the rear remotes at all on this tractor. (Owned 5 years purchased used). I know the old owner did use a rear hyd top link for an arena drag.

any starting point suggestions?

 

[mcmxi]

Thanks. I’ll investigate more. I moved the lever as far as it would go in both directions. (Which is only about 1” before it’s the end of the plastic opening).

I’ve not used the rear remotes at all on this tractor. (Owned 5 years purchased used). I know the old owner did use a rear hyd top link for an arena drag.

any starting point suggestions?

Try moving the lever more when it's at the end of travel. There's some firm pressure needed. If it's really cold, the FD in my MX won't lock out into the detent until the hydraulic oil has warmed up sufficiently.

By the way @tsmithco, welcome to the forum and thanks for starting this thread. I have spreadsheets on both tractors and your post got me looking at them and making some corrections to part numbers and cost, so much appreciated.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks. I’ll investigate more. I moved the lever as far as it would go in both directions. (Which is only about 1” before it’s the end of the plastic opening).

I’ve not used the rear remotes at all on this tractor. (Owned 5 years purchased used). I know the old owner did use a rear hyd top link for an arena drag.

any starting point suggestions?

Is there a way to remove the plastic cover and see if the lever will lock in?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks. I’ll investigate more. I moved the lever as far as it would go in both directions. (Which is only about 1” before it’s the end of the plastic opening).

I dont know if your tractor is one of them but on some models you could not put a valve with float in the first position for reasons like that.

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

I dont know if your tractor is one of them but on some models you could not put a valve with float in the first position for reasons like that.

Dan

I'm amazed at the cost of those remotes for his tractor. I hope he doesn't have to add an SCD remote and lever in position #1 in order to move the FD over one position.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'm amazed at the cost of those remotes for his tractor. I hope he doesn't have to add an SCD remote and lever in position #1 in order to move the FD over one position.

Kubota does indeed get quite a premium for thE valves and the stacking kits to go with them.

My comment probably qualifies as wild speculation but If that were the case all he would need to buy is the valve @$250 or so and use it as a spacer.

Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Thanks. I’ll investigate more. I moved the lever as far as it would go in both directions. (Which is only about 1” before it’s the end of the plastic opening).

I’ve not used the rear remotes at all on this tractor. (Owned 5 years purchased used). I know the old owner did use a rear hyd top link for an arena drag.

any starting point suggestions?

Maybe you could disconnect some of that linkage temporarily to enable longer stroke at the valve just to confirm you have float.

 

[tsmithco]

Ok. Follow-up. It is indeed float!

the lever linkage is maybe slightly bent enough that it wants to push into the detent, but just bends the lower arm instead of pushing the piston. I put a large screw driver on the linkage coming off the piston and pushed and it clicked and locked down.
So, looks like I’ll just need to pull the linkage out, bend it back and maybe reinforce it too. Take a bit of pressure for it to lock into that detent.
Thanks everyone, this was all very helpful! I’ve never used any rear remotes before.

 

[mcmxi]

Ok. Follow-up. It is indeed float!

the lever linkage is maybe slightly bent enough that it wants to push into the detent, but just bends the lower arm instead of pushing the piston. I put a large screw driver on the linkage coming off the piston and pushed and it clicked and locked down.
So, looks like I’ll just need to pull the linkage out, bend it back and maybe reinforce it too. Take a bit of pressure for it to lock into that detent.
Thanks everyone, this was all very helpful! I’ve never used any rear remotes before.

Thanks for following up. We sometimes get new members ask a question and then disappear. Good that you don't have to spend any money to get your manure spreader to work. Photos of your tractor and spreader in action would be cool.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I dont know if your tractor is one of them but on some models you could not put a valve with float in the first position for reasons like that.

Dan

You 100% nailed it.
I forgot about float should not be in the #1 position it should be in the #2 position.
RED Non float #1 position.
BLUE float #2 position.

But it sounds like OP is getting around the issue, and making it work.

 

[tsmithco]

Ok, circling back to this. I have the manure spreader now with the hydraulic web (beaters are pto).

I assumed that since I had a detent valve that it would continue to push fluid when locked into position. However that’s not the case. I have to hold the lever forward and there is flow. If I push more and lock it, the web stops moving. I’m assuming this is “float”?
Is there even an option for having the flow locked in “on”?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok, circling back to this. I have the manure spreader now with the hydraulic web (beaters are pto).

I assumed that since I had a detent valve that it would continue to push fluid when locked into position. However that’s not the case. I have to hold the lever forward and there is flow. If I push more and lock it, the web stops moving. I’m assuming this is “float”?
Is there even an option for having the flow locked in “on”?

In some valves but apparently not yours.

 

[tsmithco]

So there’s “spring center” “float detent” and “self-cancelling detent”. This is float detent and I need self-cancelling.
But I can’t determine what the ones listed as options are if not just float

 

[TheOldHokie]

So there’s “spring center” “float detent” and “self-cancelling detent”. This is float detent and I need self-cancelling.
But I can’t determine what the ones listed as options are if not just float

Self canceling detent has a pressure kickout and will automagically return to center as soon as the line pressure gets to the kickout point. Not sure that will do what you want.

Dan