Missing L1501 keys

[OldboyJon]

Just bought this L1501 and didn’t even think about asking for a key. Rookie move. Which wires do I have to touch to send power to plugs and starter?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just go on Ebay and buy keys.

2X Keys 32130-31810 for Kubota Tractor L175 L210 L225 L245 L295 L345 L1500 L1501 | eBay

Kubota L Models: L1500, L175, L1801, L185, L2000, L210, L2200, L2201, L225, L245, L2601, L295, L3001, L345, L3500. Fits Kubota M Models: M4050, M4500, M7500. Kubota &Bobcat. Shutoff Solenoid. Yanmar &Komatsu.

www.ebay.com

Top start it you just need to jump the starter from the large terminal to the small spade terminal at the starter.
If it's cold you can jump the glow plugs before the lamp / indicator ( coil ) on the dash till the indicator glows.

 

[StephenR]

Are all Kubota keys the same? Both of my older Ford tractors use the same key. I keep a couple of extra spares for when I lose one.

 

[Russell King]

Are all Kubota keys the same? Both of my older Ford tractors use the same key. I keep a couple of extra spares for when I lose one.

Not all are same key but many models will have the same key

 

[OldboyJon]

Just go on Ebay and buy keys.

2X Keys 32130-31810 for Kubota Tractor L175 L210 L225 L245 L295 L345 L1500 L1501 | eBay

Kubota L Models: L1500, L175, L1801, L185, L2000, L210, L2200, L2201, L225, L245, L2601, L295, L3001, L345, L3500. Fits Kubota M Models: M4050, M4500, M7500. Kubota &Bobcat. Shutoff Solenoid. Yanmar &Komatsu.

www.ebay.com

Top start it you just need to jump the starter from the large terminal to the small spade terminal at the starter.
If it's cold you can jump the glow plugs before the lamp / indicator ( coil ) on the dash till the indicator glows.

So, I’ve got power to the switch for glow plugs and starter. But I get no power to starter when I turn it

I have the two red wires at the ignition jumped.that made the dash light work. Do I need to jump another wire to get fuel? It doesn’t seem to be bleeding the lines even though I’ve been cranking for ever.

Just go on Ebay and buy keys.

2X Keys 32130-31810 for Kubota Tractor L175 L210 L225 L245 L295 L345 L1500 L1501 | eBay

Kubota L Models: L1500, L175, L1801, L185, L2000, L210, L2200, L2201, L225, L245, L2601, L295, L3001, L345, L3500. Fits Kubota M Models: M4050, M4500, M7500. Kubota &Bobcat. Shutoff Solenoid. Yanmar &Komatsu.

www.ebay.com

Top start it you just need to jump the starter from the large terminal to the small spade terminal at the starter.
If it's cold you can jump the glow plugs before the lamp / indicator ( coil ) on the dash till the indicator glows.

those keys didn’t work. I’ve got it turning but won’t put out any fuel. Won’t bleed. Saw metallic particles in the first bit of fuel that came out.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So, I’ve got power to the switch for glow plugs and starter. But I get no power to starter when I turn it

I have the two red wires at the ignition jumped.that made the dash light work. Do I need to jump another wire to get fuel? It doesn’t seem to be bleeding the lines even though I’ve been cranking for ever.

those keys didn’t work. I’ve got it turning but won’t put out any fuel. Won’t bleed. Saw metallic particles in the first bit of fuel that came out.

So it sounds like someone has been playing with it and changed the ignition switch to non oem Switch.
I would be surprised if the glow plugs are even working properly with the switch.

That tractor is super simple, no electric controls the fuel.
You need power to the starter solenoid and to the glow plugs and that's it.
The throttle lever and/or a stop knob (usually bottom right of the dash) is all that controls fuel.
The start circuit will have one safety switch at the clutch pedal and that's it.

Where did you open the fuel circuit to see something metallic in the fuel?
And you shouldn't have to bleed it if it was running.

 

[GeoHorn]

If you see a knob that looks like an early automotive “choke” pulled to the “out” position….. Push it IN. It shuts off the fuel when it’s pulled out. (I can imagine someone might have it pulled “out” thinking that’s a “start” position …as a gasoline engine with a “choke” might appear.)

 

[OldboyJon]

So it sounds like someone has been playing with it and changed the ignition switch to non oem Switch.
I would be surprised if the glow plugs are even working properly with the switch.

That tractor is super simple, no electric controls the fuel.
You need power to the starter solenoid and to the glow plugs and that's it.
The throttle lever and/or a stop knob (usually bottom right of the dash) is all that controls fuel.
The start circuit will have one safety switch at the clutch pedal and that's it.

Where did you open the fuel circuit to see something metallic in the fuel?
And you shouldn't have to bleed it if it was running.

I cracked the lines at the injectors. T

So it sounds like someone has been playing with it and changed the ignition switch to non oem Switch.
I would be surprised if the glow plugs are even working properly with the switch.

That tractor is super simple, no electric controls the fuel.
You need power to the starter solenoid and to the glow plugs and that's it.
The throttle lever and/or a stop knob (usually bottom right of the dash) is all that controls fuel.
The start circuit will have one safety switch at the clutch pedal and that's it.

Where did you open the fuel circuit to see something metallic in the fuel?
And you shouldn't have to bleed it if it was running.

it sat for a few years. I changed all the fluids and filters and now I’m trying to get it to bleed since it’s turning well. When I first cracked the lines it was at the block above the injectors. Then I pulled the lines all together from the injection pump. Nothing is coming out. Barely air bubbles. Even. Do you think my injector may be bad or should I just run the lines back and tighten them? Maybe it’ll cause a vacuum to suck diesel through? Not what I’m used to but I’m open to opinions

 

[OldboyJon]

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I cracked the lines at the injectors. T

it sat for a few years. I changed all the fluids and filters and now I’m trying to get it to bleed since it’s turning well. When I first cracked the lines it was at the block above the injectors. Then I pulled the lines all together from the injection pump. Nothing is coming out. Barely air bubbles. Even. Do you think my injector may be bad or should I just run the lines back and tighten them? Maybe it’ll cause a vacuum to suck diesel through? Not what I’m used to but I’m open to opinions

Leave the lines off of the injection pump for now.
You need to verify that the STOP lever is not engaged, as that will stop any fuel from leaving the pump.
You need to verify that fuel is getting to the pump.
Once those 2 things are verified come back and we'll dive deeper into this.

 

[OldboyJon]

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[OldboyJon]

Leave the lines off of the injection pump for now.
You need to verify that the STOP lever is not engaged, as that will stop any fuel from leaving the pump.
You need to verify that fuel is getting to the pump.
Once those 2 things are verified come back and we'll dive deeper into this.

Fuel line to filter is open. Filter is full. Fuel cutoff lever is disengaged. Really worried about the shiny fuel. Last image I just posted.

 

[OldboyJon]

Fuel line to filter is open. Filter is full. Fuel cutoff lever is disengaged. Really worried about the shiny fuel. Last image I just posted.

Leave the lines off of the injection pump for now.
You need to verify that the STOP lever is not engaged, as that will stop any fuel from leaving the pump.
You need to verify that fuel is getting to the pump.
Once those 2 things are verified come back and we'll dive deeper into this.

Thank you, I really appreciate this help. The local Kubota guy doesn’t even want to talk to me. And charges double any time I ask him to order something. He’s a local legend of an asshole.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

looks like someone added a fuel treatemnt of some kind.

 

[OldboyJon]

looks like someone added a fuel treatemnt of some kind.

Still no fuel from the injection pump

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Looking at the wiring looks like you have the glow plugs power all the time right now.
If you do they will burn out.
You can not leave them powered.

Fix for that:

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

Keys Not Included

www.colemanequip.com

So It looks to me that you are getting fuel out of the injection pump.

Pull the Injectors out of the engine.

Put a fuel line on the injection pump off to the side add the injector on to that line leave it loose, crank engine till you get fuel to the injector, then snug up that fitting.
DO NOT put you hand under the injector output.
Crank it again you should get a mist of fuel out of the injector if you don't then you need to open up the injector and clean it.
Then try again.
If it mists good with no drips your good to go if it doesn't you'll need to have the injectors rebuilt.
Do not by injector off of eBay or Amazon or other non OEM site as there is a HUge chance you will just get junk injectors.

 

[Russell King]

I think you have it running now so congratulations on that.

I think by looking at the picture in the first post that the silver knob is really a decompression device that you can use pulled out to get it spinning fast and then push in to restore compression. If it is connected to a lever at the front of the valve cover that is what it is for. It could be a fuel shutoff but I also see a hooked lever way down on the right side (sitting on tractor) that will shut the fuel off when pulled up.

I believe that your tractor is very similar to the L175 and L185 that are not grey market