Front Axle Bracket and Bushing Question

[GeoHorn]

My circa ‘96 M4700DT “Front Axle Bracket” and “Bushing”…. are not greaseable…. despite the Owner‘s Manual lubrication instructions and depicted Zerk/Grease-fitting….none exists on my bracket.

Research tells me I have an “early” bracket…which was superseded later with the greaseable type.

Question: Has anyone ever “worn out” their non-greaseable front axle bushing and/or bracket ?

Question: Has anyone drilled, tapped, and installed a Zerk fitting to convert their non-greaseable bracket/bushing ?

Kubota wants $290 for just the bracket and I have drills and taps.
The Messicks parts diagram offers “tips” from users on how to accomplish REPLACEMENT of the bushing. If I do this and the bushing is not worn-out, I plan to include drilling a grease-hole thru the existing bushing.

But the “Tips” state: “Need a sharp flat chisel and hammer for removal of the old one. Jack up tractor and put stands under it and get ratchet straps to put on the differential to suspend it. Will need to remove coupling on the drive shaft and remove drive shaft and unbolt the housing of the bushing”

I cannot imagine WHY one would need to remove the driveshaft…if the axle were supported with jackstnds and never dropped from the chassis.

Anyone with experience in this type of work …Have any comments…and/or answers….and/or suggestions?

Thank you.

Items (10) and (20) are the parts being addressed. The replacement/superseded front bracket (10) is indicated in this illustration…. my earlier bracket has no grease-zerk or plug (items 25 & 26)

 

[007kubotaguy]

If you'll notice on each bracket is two bolts and two studs. The driveline must be removed to drop the axle down to remove the brackets. There's no reason you can't drill and tap the original bracket. I have had better luck using a die grinder to cut the old bushing out for replacement.

 

[Chanceywd]

Would you be able to double nut the studs to remove them too so the brackets didn't need to drop down?

just a thought,
bill

 

[GeoHorn]

If I look hard enough….maybe I can find those collets I bought 20 years ago and never used….…
..…..or maybe drill the bracket in situ…

Probably easier to just loosen the drive-cover, slide it back…drive the roll-pin…and slide the coupling back/aft…. ?

 

[007kubotaguy]

You could certainly double not the studs and try to remove them. Typically they aren't very easy. You can only remove the front bracket without removing the driveline.

 

[GeoHorn]

You could certainly double not the studs and try to remove them. Typically they aren't very easy. You can only remove the front bracket without removing the driveline.

The rear bracket has a zerk and I’ve been greasing it… I still wonder if anyone has ever actually found their front bracket-Bushing worn out..?

(Gotta wonder why Kubota didn’t provide grease fittings in the early front bracket… perhaps it was thought to be permanently greased initially…?)

I see where the front bracket is to be “adjusted” or “tightened” periodically. Anyone ever actually do this?

 

[007kubotaguy]

I always adjust the bolt on the front of the axle pivot. It's part of a routine service. It will certainly help things not wear prematurely.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The drive line does not flex and you need to drop the axle so you must remove it, yes sliding the cover back and removing the roll pin and coupling is removing the drive line.
And as 007 said adjusting the lash on the front is important to keeping wear and tear in check.

 

[Nicksacco]

The axle is supported by both the front and rear bosses (parts 20 and 040) therefore you can't support the axle with jack stands and remove the front boss unless you had a way to lower and lift the axle just enough to do that. And then as mentioned the FWD shaft is certainly a factor.

After I removed the FWD shaft, I had a crane system attached to both sides of the axle to hold it up and lower it down gradually and slowly. That axle weighs a ton.

Removing the wheels makes it a lot easier and lots lighter.

When I started the L35 restoration, the bushings were all bad, rusty and the grease fittings gone.
I ended up cleaning the bosses and redrilling/tapping for a grease fitting.

Note the fancy stands I used to hold the tractor off the front wheels after using the bucket to lift the front wheels!

(Of course since my job was a restoration, I did remove the entire axle for cleaning and such.)

Do you have a gantry or some kind of crane to hold the axle?

 

[GeoHorn]

I have a 2K lb engine crane… but I think I may simply leave the axle on the ground…and jack the tractor up/away from it using a pair of floor-jacks…??

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have a 2K lb engine crane… but I think I may simply leave the axle on the ground…and jack the tractor up/away from it using a pair of floor-jacks…??

That's how I do it.