Trailer requirements for a Kubota 3901

[Chich]

I am in the market for a trailer and I want it to be able to haul my 3901 to the repair shop if and when it breaks down. The tractor is 2800 lbs. The repair shop is the only place I would ever haul it to. I see trailers for $2000 but when I go through these thread people seem to advocate a 7000 GVWR. I think that is overkill and would like to keep the extra $1800 for one in my pocket. I dont want to just squeek by with a trailer, but I dont want overkill either.

 

[old and tired]

You going to remove the loader before taking it to the dealer? That's close to 1000. Did you get your tires loaded? Depending on with what, another 500 lbs.

If you want to save money, find out what it costs for your dealer to come get the tractor... or rent a trailer, if and when you need it.

I have a friend that I borrow his trailer (that sits unused most of the time). I throw money his way when he buys new tires...

 

[fried1765]

I am in the market for a trailer and I want it to be able to haul my 3901 to the repair shop if and when it breaks down. The tractor is 2800 lbs. The repair shop is the only place I would ever haul it to. I see trailers for $2000 but when I go through these thread people seem to advocate a 7000 GVWR. I think that is overkill and would like to keep the extra $1800 for one in my pocket. I dont want to just squeek by with a trailer, but I dont want overkill either.

Buy the maximum weight capacity trailer that you can safely use with your designated tow vehicle.
The day will come that you wish you had.
Max capability issue, will likely will not be a tractor, or THIS tractor!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

The reason for the 7000 is simple math.
7000# trailer might weigh 2000#, so 7000-2000=5000# the 'payload' you can carry
5000# - 2800 for tractor = 2200# (about a ton )
Now unknowns are important !
Does tractor have a loader ( typ weigh 1000)
Does tractor have ballast(loaded tires ( typ 500 #)
hmm...2200-1000-500 = 700#
Could easily have 100# in chains,binders,etc....
700-100=600#
600# left for a 7000# trailer isn't a lot....
oopsy, forgot BUCKET, that's NOT included with loader !
could be 200-400# ??
now you're 'on the edge'......

You can get accurate numbers once you know the real weights of stuff.

 

[The Evil Twin]

I'll agree with @fried1765 on that. You never know what you may want to haul down the line.
Aside from that, trailer length is a concern as well. Do you have a brush cutter that may go with it? You may not be able to get the loader or other attachments off if it NEEDS to go in for service.
@old and tired also brings up a good point. My dealer charges $50 each way to pick up/ deliver. A U Haul car trailer is another option. My neighbor did that till I told him it's $100 round trip for the dealer to do all the work.

 

[85Hokie]

When you think about the 7000 gvwr ......... remember - the trailer and the items on it can get there quick!

that 7000 comes from having 2 axles that are rated at 3500 each - the trailer is not the issue.

your tractor with fuel full, and maybe other things on it will exceed 3,000 lbs - a 7000gvwr may way another 2100 lbs = so while you are still under the max number - you would never want to get close to that number!

I would use the 80% thought - load it up and then weigh it - hopefully you'll be under 5600 lbs.

For the tractor I would suggest a 16 double axle or perhaps an 18 footer.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

also if two axles BOTH need to have brakes !! Laws vary,but NOT required here in Ontario....
Getting going 'down the road' is easy, STOPPING can be ,um, ah, very challenging even under 'ideal' conditions.

 

[mcmxi]

I am in the market for a trailer and I want it to be able to haul my 3901 to the repair shop if and when it breaks down.

It makes no sense to me to buy a trailer for that possibility alone. I like trailers and have a bunch of them, but they all have a purpose and get used regularly. Buying one to sit around waiting on something to happen just seems like a bad idea.

I'm selling one of my equipment trailers since I bought a deck over last year that meets my needs. It's a great trailer but now it's redundant so I'd rather roll the money into something else.

 

[Donystoy]

Bare minimum is a 7000" gvwr trailer with dual axles all with brakes. This is what I have and considered it the bare minimum when towing my B7200 tlb. I have not towed my LX2610 on it yet but know that I will not be able to also load it up with patio stones like I did once with the B7200 LOL.

 

[CGMKCM]

Might try calling a reputable tow truck service in your area.
Most have roll back trucks that can easily handle the weight of your tractor. They also will have all of the tie down equipment as well as insurance.
When we had a towing company we used to charge by the loaded mile for local tractor deliveries. We were less expensive then the equipment dealer. We also towed campers, boats etc.

 

[Chich]

It makes no sense to me to buy a trailer for that possibility alone. I like trailers and have a bunch of them, but they all have a purpose and get used regularly. Buying one to sit around waiting on something to happen just seems like a bad idea.

I'm selling one of my equipment trailers since I bought a deck over last year that meets my needs. It's a great trailer but now it's redundant so I'd rather roll the money into something else.

I have other things to haul, the tractor is the heaviest so I was using it was my top limit. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Chich]

Fantastic answers. Thank you very much. Saved me a bunch of internet research time and made tons of sense. Again, thank you for your quick and thoughtful responses.

 

[GrizBota]

I am in the market for a trailer and I want it to be able to haul my 3901 to the repair shop if and when it breaks down. The tractor is 2800 lbs. The repair shop is the only place I would ever haul it to. I see trailers for $2000 but when I go through these thread people seem to advocate a 7000 GVWR. I think that is overkill and would like to keep the extra $1800 for one in my pocket. I dont want to just squeek by with a trailer, but I dont want overkill either.

What would you get instead? A single axle 3500 lb GVWR? That trailer would be much too small payload capacity wise. The 7k, two axle, 16 ft trailer is essentially entry level for hauling up to about top of the Standard L or middle of the Grand L tractors. And one needs to consider all the weight as mentioned above, FEL, cab, loaded tires, implement, etc.

I advice getting a trailer with at least a 5 inch channel frame, not the ange iron and short rail that act as a truss (Big Tex, amoungst other manufacturers trying to use less steel do this). Make sure the deck, if wooden, is screwed to the cross members (and not nailed to very thin cross members). Think about tail light placement, many times positioned just right to get damaged while backing. Ramps, check this out too. Tires, does the load capacity match the trailer. Lots of fun stuff.

Happy shopping.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I have a L3301 with loader which is always on. On the back end I always seem to have something on as well like a logging winch, backhoe, snow blower, etc...

Trailer I use is a 20' steel deck, 2x3500# axles. trailer weighs 1,800#'s empty and when loaded I am very near to trailers max. i wouldn't want less of a trailer. I haul on a lot of gravel but relatively flat ground. Trailer brakes play a very important role and brakes on both axles is very appreciated.

 

[fried1765]

Fantastic answers. Thank you very much. Saved me a bunch of internet research time and made tons of sense. Again, thank you for your quick and thoughtful responses.

For your use, you will likely decide very differently, but here is my logic:

I have a Kubota L48 TLB that has a published operating weight of 7760 lbs.
I have a 20' tandem trailer weighing 3800 lbs. with a registered GW of 14,000 lbs.
That brings my simple total weight to 11,560 lbs.

Then, I have two spare buckets (400 lbs+), a root ripper (120 lbs.),and forks (400 lbs.), that I also carry.
Weight now totals 12,480 lbs.

I could have bought a 12,000 lb. capacity trailer, but I would have been OVER capacity...... for use with my 7760 lb. tractor.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I am with the "Go big, or stay home" crowd.

In my defense, I bought my trailer (16 ft. tandem 7K) for ice fishing with the Rhino and shanties....etc.

It was WAY more then enough.............(play haunting music)...Then I bought a tractor with implements.

Now I am playing "70 mph Jenga" every time I load it.

But I am great at spending other peoples money, so there's that too

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Be sure to get/add BACKUP lights ON the trailer !! Every 7 pin wired trailer CAN have them,super easy.
Now if you have to ask why you need backup lights,then you've never backed up a trailer on a tree lined, twisty gravel road with 2' drop offs !

 

[fried1765]

Be sure to get/add BACKUP lights ON the trailer !! Every 7 pin wired trailer CAN have them,super easy.
Now if you have to ask why you need backup lights,then you've never backed up a trailer on a tree lined, twisty gravel road with 2' drop offs !

If the trailer has tilt up ramps, backing up is really not a no go issue.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

you must have street lights where you live, us country folk don't have them and woods get dark at night for some 'silly' reason.

 

[fried1765]

you must have street lights where you live, us country folk don't have them and woods get dark at night for some 'silly' reason.

The tow vehicle back-up lights will illuminate the tilted up ramps, even in the woodsy areas.