Dual rear remotes on my B2650

TheOldHokie

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First off, sorry for the thread bump. Been a long time lurker first time poster. I've been going over this thread and I'm ready to pull the trigger on adding rear remotes on my B2650 but was hoping for a picture, or a little better clarification from @Chad D. or any one on how they did this on a machine already equipped with 3rd function.

I did the 3rd function kit from Summit Hydraulic 3 years ago to run a grapple. Works great but uses the PB & T port typically tied into for adding the rear remotes. I reached out to Summit before finding this thread and their recommendation was to add one of these splitters but that seems overly complicated/expensive.
Can I "tee" into the PB and T ports going to the 3rd function kit to run the rear remotes, add the low pressure drain line and be good to go? Or can/should I them in parallel, remove the connection at the T port from the 3rd function, run that into the rear remotes, then a line to the T port on the loader valve and low pressure and I'm good? I'm only looking to run a hydraulic top link, maybe do a TnT set up way down the road.
Your rear remote valve must be configured for power beyond. Did you get it from Summit? Post a picture of the new valve. To hook it in you place it in series with the third function:
  1. Remove the hose connected to T on the Summit third function valve.
  2. Connect T on the third function valve to P on the new rear remote valve.
  3. Connect PB on rear remote to the port where the third function was previously connected.
  4. Finally run a new hose from T on rear remote to tank on the tractor.
Dan
 
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biketopia

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Your rear remote valve must be configured for power beyond. Did you get it from Summit? Post a picture of the new valve. To hook it in you place it in series with the third function:
  1. Remove the hose connected to T on the Summit third function valve.
  2. Connect T on the third function valve to P on the new rear remote valve.
  3. Connect PB on rear remote to the port where the third function was previously connected.
  4. Finally run a new hose from T on rear remote to tank on the tractor.
Dan
I haven't bought anything yet. Was hoping I could use one of the set ups listed in this thread. Thanks a bunch for the help & insight!
 

TheOldHokie

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I haven't bought anything yet. Was hoping I could use one of the set ups listed in this thread. Thanks a bunch for the help & insight!
There is nothing special about the valve. The hardest part is figuring out where you want to mount it. This valve from Summit is inexpensive and works fine - I have one on a L3901.


Dan
 

biketopia

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There is nothing special about the valve. The hardest part is figuring out where you want to mount it. This valve from Summit is inexpensive and works fine - I have one on a L3901.


Dan
Good deal. I had the single version of that valve saved but after doing more looking and thinking decided a dual set up would be the smarter way to go if I'm going to do it. Thanks so much for the help! I'm going to try and look at the machine this weekend and figure out everything I need to buy fitting and part wise & get it coming. I can make the hoses locally.

If...big IF I wanted to ever run something that needs constant flow like a log splitter would I need one of those valves to have a float function or a different valve all together?
 

TheOldHokie

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Good deal. I had the single version of that valve saved but after doing more looking and thinking decided a dual set up would be the smarter way to go if I'm going to do it. Thanks so much for the help! I'm going to try and look at the machine this weekend and figure out everything I need to buy fitting and part wise & get it coming. I can make the hoses locally.

If...big IF I wanted to ever run something that needs constant flow like a log splitter would I need one of those valves to have a float function or a different valve all together?
Float has no purpose here. The simplest way to do that is by putting a quick connnect on the PB port of the remote valve.

To power your log splitter shut the tractor off, disconnect the coupler and connect the two hslves to the log splitter supply hoses. Restart the tractor. Done.

To disconnect shut the tractor off, disconnect the splitter and reconnect the tractor side coupler halves. Restart the tractor. Done

Dan
 
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biketopia

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Float has no purpose here. The simplest way to do that is by putting a quick connnect on the PB port of the remote valve.

To power your log splitter shut the tractor off, disconnect the coupler and connect the two hslves to the log splitter supply hoses. Restart the tractor. Done.

Dan
Ten four simple enough!! I have no use for a 3pt splitter as I have a gas powered one and don't currently heat with wood, was just a thought while gathering parts. Is there any benefit to having a float valve for the rear remotes, or more for a specific use cases? I'll mainly be using them for a top link with my box blade, pulverizer, and tiller. And then maybe one day I'll add a power tilt but it's not high on my list with how I use my tractor, at least for now.
 

TheOldHokie

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Ten four simple enough!! I have no use for a 3pt splitter as I have a gas powered one and don't currently heat with wood, was just a thought while gathering parts. Is there any benefit to having a float valve for the rear remotes, or more for a specific use cases? I'll mainly be using them for a top link with my box blade, pulverizer, and tiller. And then maybe one day I'll add a power tilt but it's not high on my list with how I use my tractor, at least for now.
I just used log splitter as an example.

The value of float is an opinion and I wont offer mine. I am sure plenty of others will.

Dan
 
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biketopia

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Your rear remote valve must be configured for power beyond. Did you get it from Summit? Post a picture of the new valve. To hook it in you place it in series with the third function:
  1. Remove the hose connected to T on the Summit third function valve.
  2. Connect T on the third function valve to P on the new rear remote valve.
  3. Connect PB on rear remote to the port where the third function was previously connected.
  4. Finally run a new hose from T on rear remote to tank on the tractor.
Dan

Bumping this back-up as I finally had some time to mess with this project. I'm 95% sure I follow the steps above but wanted to double check before I go ordering fittings and making up hoses. I've attached pictures of my B2650 that already has the summit 3rd function installed.
1. I will remove the line connected to "T" on the 3rd function, from the tractor side.
2. Run that line to "P" on the new valve. (I can move the plug from the top to the side correct?)
3. Install my power beyond adapter into port "N" on the new valve and run a short line from that to where the line removed in step 1 used to hook up on the tractor.
4. Install a fitting in port "T" and cut a tee in the rubber hose being pointed at in the last picture.

rr1.jpg rr3.jpg rr4.jpg rr5.jpg
 

TheOldHokie

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Bumping this back-up as I finally had some time to mess with this project. I'm 95% sure I follow the steps above but wanted to double check before I go ordering fittings and making up hoses. I've attached pictures of my B2650 that already has the summit 3rd function installed.
1. I will remove the line connected to "T" on the 3rd function, from the tractor side.
2. Run that line to "P" on the new valve. (I can move the plug from the top to the side correct?)
3. Install my power beyond adapter into port "N" on the new valve and run a short line from that to where the line removed in step 1 used to hook up on the tractor.
4. Install a fitting in port "T" and cut a tee in the rubber hose being pointed at in the last picture.

View attachment 133839 View attachment 133840 View attachment 133841 View attachment 133842
The narrative sounds correct but are you sure you have correctly identified the hoses labeled P and T ?

The one labeled P should be goung to the T port on the third function.

The one labeled T should be going to the T port on the loader valve.

I cant make heads or tails out of the last picture. Why not install a tee on the end of the hose you have labeled T? Those are all 2 wire hoses and I would not cut them.

Dan
 

TheOldHokie

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The labels on the hoses in my pictures correspond to the ports they are installed to on the summit 3rd function kit. It is installed exactly like these directions & pictures show. https://www.messicks.com/uploads/assets/380-168a_color_copy.pdf
OK - despite the words they use there is no tank line in the Landpride intstructuons. Let me try to make it simple. To install the Summit valve:

  1. Disconnect the hose under the seat that you have labeled T and connect it to P on the Summit valve.
  2. Run a new hose from N on the Summit valve to the fitting under the seat. That completes the power beyond loop.
Now all you have left is to run a hose from T on the Summit valve to tank on the tractor. I am not clear where you planned on doing that. Could you clarify please?

Dan
 

biketopia

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OK - despite the words they use there is no tank line in the Landpride intstructuons. Let me try to make it simple. To install the Summit valve:

  1. Disconnect the hose under the seat that you have labeled T and connect it to P on the Summit valve.
  2. Run a new hose from N on the Summit valve to the fitting under the seat. That completes the power beyond loop.
Now all you have left is to run a hose from T on the Summit valve to tank on the tractor. I am not clear where you planned on doing that. Could you clarify please?

Dan

Perfect, thanks a bunch for helping me with this!! For the T port on the Summit valve I was going to run it to the line in my last picture. I've seen similar pictures on here. That line is just painted gray but it is a simple rubber line from what I've gathered, a simple brass tee and some hose clamps would work i believe. Or is there more pressure on the T port from the new summit remote valve I'm not considering?
 

TheOldHokie

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Perfect, thanks a bunch for helping me with this!! For the T port on the Summit valve I was going to run it to the line in my last picture. I've seen similar pictures on here. That line is just painted gray but it is a simple rubber line from what I've gathered, a simple brass tee and some hose clamps would work i believe. Or is there more pressure on the T port from the new summit remote valve I'm not considering?
Brass tee and hose clamps should be fine.

Dan
 

biketopia

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Awesome, I really do appreciate your help and breaking this down like I'm 5. I'm a fleet tech by trade but my workings with hydraulics has been limited.
 

TheOldHokie

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Awesome, I really do appreciate your help and breaking this down like I'm 5. I'm a fleet tech by trade but my workings with hydraulics has been limited.
I certainly hope you dont feel I was talking down to you!!! Thats not the case at all.

Unfortunately people use a lot of confusing and at times erroneous terms when talking about these circuits. I tend to over compensate and try to be as basic and accuarate as possible.

Dan
 
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biketopia

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Warrenton VA
I certainly hope you dont feel I was talking down to you!!! Thats not the case at all.

Unfortunately people use a lot of confusing and at times erroneous terms when talking about these circuits. I tend to over compensate and try to be as basic and accuarate as possible.

Dan
Definitely did not feel I was talked down to! Felt I may of been asking the same question in different ways, confusing myself even more hah! Just ordered up a bunch of fittings and should be all set to knock this out over the weekend. Again, I really appreciate the help Dan!