Hey guys I have a 20’ L2501 HST. Wanting to purchase a rotary tiller. Fairly new to tractors and implements. Really wanting a Land Pride 66” bc I plan to add 2’ spacer to the rear wheels for stability and that will make the total rear track width right at 66” so it will cover my tire tracks. Ive seen several run the 58” with no issues I would assume the 66” wouldn’t be much more for that tractor? I know it won’t be fast, but I only plan to till maybe 1-2 acres food plots twice a year at my small 70acre hunting club. Whats everyone else think?
Land Pride 58” or 66” Tiller for L2501!
- Thread starter Jblackwell205
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GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
If ,and that's a big if, the land has already been plowed and disced, the wider tiller MIGHT work for you. You've got maybe 20HP out of the PTO ? On no-till land, my 5'(60") tiller used every 30HP from my big tractor. It was NOT happy, trying to chew through the sod. 3-4 passes later it said 'ok, but go real slow'.
Now ,after adding 5-6 years worth of super rich compost, it tills fine. The tiller is a 'finishing' implement NOT designed to change 'virgin' land into garden soil in one pass. One 'trick' that does help is till N-S, then E-W, at least 3-4 groups of passes, every other day for a week. This will help chew up the sod,get air in, kill the weeds, etc.
The 'don't leave tracks' isn't an issue, you just overlap the passes. I've never done 'food plots' for game, just for humans, so I LIKE the tire tracks ! Those become the foot paths to access the 4' wide veggie beds.
Curious, when you add spacers to the rears, will you add same to fronts ?
Now ,after adding 5-6 years worth of super rich compost, it tills fine. The tiller is a 'finishing' implement NOT designed to change 'virgin' land into garden soil in one pass. One 'trick' that does help is till N-S, then E-W, at least 3-4 groups of passes, every other day for a week. This will help chew up the sod,get air in, kill the weeds, etc.
The 'don't leave tracks' isn't an issue, you just overlap the passes. I've never done 'food plots' for game, just for humans, so I LIKE the tire tracks ! Those become the foot paths to access the 4' wide veggie beds.
Curious, when you add spacers to the rears, will you add same to fronts ?
I believe you have around 19 PTO HP, 66" might be too optimistic. I used (forward rotation) 58" tiller with B2601 (same 19 PTO HP as yours) and it did great. Also use the 58" on LX3310 it turns it a lot better but the B2601 was by no means deficient with the 58". 66" might be pushing it though.
I would make sure it’s wide enough to cover the wheels. Worse case, put in L and/or go slower, or make two passes.
I really don’t know what would or would not work on your machine and soil. So maybe this doesn’t really help? Personally I’d want the tracks covered. I have 58” for my B and it does just fine breaking new ground…just go slower and takes a couple passes…peeling the sod off first will help that even more, and that also prevents being left with clods. Maybe clods don’t matter so much if doing food plots? But maybe for food plots covering track not as important as in a garden either? Would dealer let you demo the larger tiller? If the soil has been tilled before might be fine…can always go slower. Or if doesn’t work you could always buy a bigger tractor
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OntheRidge
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L47 TLB, Homestead 55" grapple, LP 1684 rear blade, WR Long 84" snowplow
If you look in your owners manual, it will tell you implement limitations. My L47 with 33 pto hp is only recommending a 60" tiller.
Your HST you can crawl at super slow speed if you need to, get the bigger one. The manuals are super conservative for implement sizes.
That’s why I’m thinking! I’ve seen a couple people run a 58 and a 66”. I’ll be tilling the same plots year after year so I figure if it cuts through the first time the following tills will be easy. Plus I’m in no rush so I can take my time
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I just checked, the L2501 has 19 PTO HP, just 1.3 more than the BX23S.
No way it'll run an 84" tiller.MIGHT be able to drag it, lift ??
58" seems to be a good 'mate' to the L2501 looking at specs of HP to width.
The minimum spec for tiller PTO is what it takes to run through 'garden soil' NOT 1st pass on 'virgin' soil.
Ideally, you'd plow in the fall and let Mother Nature help break down the soil for you. Something old skool farmers did.
Now IF your soil is really,really sandy you could run wider,if you have the HP. The big unknown is your soil. If old no-till acreage, it'll be very, very compacted and you'll destroy the new tiller. I ran a 2.7' deep subsoiler N-S,E-W several times,then plowed to break up the 'soil' on a 1 acre plot.
In the end, it's your tractor, your land, your decision but gee, I'd hate to hear you bought something bigger than the experts said and have the tractor tranny guts get chewed into very very expensive bits.
No way it'll run an 84" tiller.MIGHT be able to drag it, lift ??
58" seems to be a good 'mate' to the L2501 looking at specs of HP to width.
The minimum spec for tiller PTO is what it takes to run through 'garden soil' NOT 1st pass on 'virgin' soil.
Ideally, you'd plow in the fall and let Mother Nature help break down the soil for you. Something old skool farmers did.
Now IF your soil is really,really sandy you could run wider,if you have the HP. The big unknown is your soil. If old no-till acreage, it'll be very, very compacted and you'll destroy the new tiller. I ran a 2.7' deep subsoiler N-S,E-W several times,then plowed to break up the 'soil' on a 1 acre plot.
In the end, it's your tractor, your land, your decision but gee, I'd hate to hear you bought something bigger than the experts said and have the tractor tranny guts get chewed into very very expensive bits.
Pretty sure that was a sarcastic comment...
If it's virgin soil you don't want to till 9" deep in the first pass... (9" was also sarcastic...). I've tilled with 23 pto hp and 60" tiller; virgin soil and did not have any issues (other than rocks I hit). I did however need to run over it a few times going deeper each path. Ideally, a subsoiler with several passes would be better. With HST, you can go so slow.
That’s what I am thinking for virgin soil. Just take my time, make several shallow paths over and over going a little deeper each time.Pretty sure that was a sarcastic comment...
If it's virgin soil you don't want to till 9" deep in the first pass... (9" was also sarcastic...). I've tilled with 23 pto hp and 60" tiller; virgin soil and did not have any issues (other than rocks I hit). I did however need to run over it a few times going deeper each path. Ideally, a subsoiler with several passes would be better. With HST, you can go so slow.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Wish I could help, but I have the RTA 1558, which works great.
My gut says that a 66 would work fine, especially if you go a little slower, but I don't have enough "tractor'n" experience to say for sure.
My gut says that a 66 would work fine, especially if you go a little slower, but I don't have enough "tractor'n" experience to say for sure.
rkidd
Active member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650, FEL With QA 60"mmm, 3pt FDR1672,homemade ballast box, BB 1572 box scraper
I have a B2650 that has same pto hp as yours and run a landpride rtr 66" with no problem in untilled ground in low range of course.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
You should compare what soil type he has !!
I've seen 85HP tractor with 7' tiller STOP DEAD due to soil conditions. Worked fine 4 miles down the road....
I've seen 85HP tractor with 7' tiller STOP DEAD due to soil conditions. Worked fine 4 miles down the road....