About the pull the trigger on a 6' rear blade for my BX2380. The Blade i'm trying to get doesn't give the actual angles of the pin holes. I could call (and I will if I need to) but was wondering if there is standardization generally speaking with angles on rear blades. It looks by eyeball about 45 degrees at the max with the middle hole being about 1/2 of 45 or 22.5 degrees for both forward facing and rear facing holes. Is this accurate for most rear blades? Just trying to figure out how much plow width I have at different angles and if i can store the blade without exceeding my rear tire width.
Rear Blade Angles
- Thread starter PNWBXer
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I'd expect the blade manufacturer to post a drawing with widths and angles.
To me a 6' blade seems too wide. BX2380 is only 4' wide and maybe 24HP. There's is NO way it'd pull my 70 year old 6' blade !
To me a 6' blade seems too wide. BX2380 is only 4' wide and maybe 24HP. There's is NO way it'd pull my 70 year old 6' blade !
That is a thought too....tho I'm just thinking about using it primary for scraping an asphalt road after I snowblow to leave no snow that could turn to ice. Maybe secondarily I would use it to level some lawn prep area a bit after box blading (aka wider than the box blade). I dont see myself pulling a ton of material behind it....or being super agressive with it.
The 5' blade at 22.5 degrees sticks out about 5 inches on either side (using 44 inches for the tractor....) and doesn't cover at 45 degrees. At 6' I get about 10 inches outside the tires at 22.5 degrees.....and at 45 degrees I still get 3 inches outside the tire. But then I really have to maybe worry about hitting stuff.
So you think 72 inches is too big for a BX? anyone have any experience using that set up for snow?
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I have a 6' blade on my D-14 ( 40HP) and heavy wet snow will stop me when pushing snow backwards.
You also have to consider the weight of the blade(will 3PH lift it ?) as well as needing front weight.
Now it does matter whether you're pulling(going forward or pushing(in reverse). I found pushing to work better for me, though I did have to swap rears to gain more traction
A slight angle pulling should be easier that 45*. Also a blade made for snow plowing will be canted forward to get the snow to roll 'up and over and down', Dirt blades aren't designed for snow. You may be able to adjust for 'good' result but not 'optimum'
Also BX2380 isn't very heavy,which is another reason you'll not be able to push/pull a full blade. Yes, 4WD helps but heck I've had a CJ-5 get stuck in the white.....
You also have to consider the weight of the blade(will 3PH lift it ?) as well as needing front weight.
Now it does matter whether you're pulling(going forward or pushing(in reverse). I found pushing to work better for me, though I did have to swap rears to gain more traction
A slight angle pulling should be easier that 45*. Also a blade made for snow plowing will be canted forward to get the snow to roll 'up and over and down', Dirt blades aren't designed for snow. You may be able to adjust for 'good' result but not 'optimum'
Also BX2380 isn't very heavy,which is another reason you'll not be able to push/pull a full blade. Yes, 4WD helps but heck I've had a CJ-5 get stuck in the white.....
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Thanks for your input. Like I posted above I have a snowblower on the front which will help with traction...and the only snow that will be left is whatever is left after I snowblow it off (which should be less than 1/3 inch if I adjusted my skids right). My snowblower destroys heavy wet snow.....so idk.
For what you desired be tempted to go with a 6 footer. It'll only be 50" wide at 45*. If it is too wide you can always shorten it.
Tractor weight, tires and the surface you run on will affect the operation.
Tractor weight, tires and the surface you run on will affect the operation.
Foxrunfarms
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
My lx2610. 24.8hp pulls my 6ft heavy duty Dearborn blade nicely in snow and dirt. Anything over 8 inches or wet it struggles a bit. In normal snow id like something I could offset or something a bit wider. Ive been using the box blade in snow and have been able to push snow with that very well.
I was looking at upgrading blades but these old ones you can pick for little or nothing that will last forever vs these new ones will bend looking at them funny.
Also, many of the newer blades aren't rolled to shape. The manufacturer just nails the moldboard a few times in the press brake and calls it good. That affects how the blade rolls and sheds material in front of it.
Nothing wrong putting a 6 foot back blade on your 2380. I have a 6 foot back blade on my 1880 with no issues. But I turn the blade backwards so is curves to the back. Then I adjust the top 3 point to my liking. Works great moving snow. I have my loader on so if I need more front traction, just put snow in the bucket.
I agree a 6 ft is ok especially for snow. When you angle to push the snow off the area, you effectively lose length.
Also, you can control how hard it pulls by the blade's veritical angle as well.
As far as actual angle possibility is concerned, a few people including me reverse their blades for snow. In that case, the holes are different again on some including my Land Pride. However, there probably isn't any reason why you couldn't drill more holes though to give you more angle options unless you went too crazy.
Also, you can control how hard it pulls by the blade's veritical angle as well.
As far as actual angle possibility is concerned, a few people including me reverse their blades for snow. In that case, the holes are different again on some including my Land Pride. However, there probably isn't any reason why you couldn't drill more holes though to give you more angle options unless you went too crazy.
Well my "order online" deal just turned sour when I discovered that the shipping price was going to double the price. 
!!!! Anyway i'm looking local.....found a woods 72inch that looks like its in great shape...now playing the craigslist/marketplace wait game.
Never thought about dragging the blade forward...tho I did see that GP Outdoors guy mention that it didnt work for him. I assumed I'd just change out the steel cutting edge for a hard plastic one if it's not too expensive.
!!!! Anyway i'm looking local.....found a woods 72inch that looks like its in great shape...now playing the craigslist/marketplace wait game. Never thought about dragging the blade forward...tho I did see that GP Outdoors guy mention that it didnt work for him. I assumed I'd just change out the steel cutting edge for a hard plastic one if it's not too expensive.
Foxrunfarms
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
I'm not a fan of flipping the blade either. The snow doesn't roll off from it, or you can't toss the snow going fast, but it works for other people. My box blade leaves a nice smooth surface with the 2nd blade and very little gravel pick up, but a box blade doesn't work for everyone either.Well my "order online" deal just turned sour when I discovered that the shipping price was going to double the price.
Never thought about dragging the blade forward...tho I did see that GP Outdoors guy mention that it didnt work for him. I assumed I'd just change out the steel cutting edge for a hard plastic one if it's not too expensive.
Of course, snow varies in density and depth. Also, expectations of “works“ varies. Finally, the vertical angle of the blade gives more variables.
Bottomline “backwards” doesn’t equal “backwards”.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
I always turn my blade 180 degrees when moving snow from my gravel road and it definitely moves the snow without digging into snd moving gravel. But it’s 8’ and 1000 pounds. I also use it backwards to smooth and grade the gravel during the summer. The only times that I use it in the forward position is when I’m cutting ditches or pulling gravel out of ditches. Also when cutting and moving dirt.
I could be wrong, and maybe the OP took it into consideration and knows better; But I'd guess that a 6 foot, 3 point rear blade on a BX will hit the rear tires at anything close to 45 degrees. 22 degrees is pushing it.
Secondly. The larger blade will pull your BX's rear end into the cut direction.
Big time .
My 2 cents.
Secondly. The larger blade will pull your BX's rear end into the cut direction.
Big time .
My 2 cents.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
I think you can pretty safely figure a mechanical angle blade adjusts in 22.5 degree increments.
I have a 6' blade that has seen decades of snow removal use on the back of a B7200D. It is a load in deep snow but the real limitation is the ability of the tractor itself to operate in that much snow. Small tires and limited ground clearance will bring it to a stop blade or not. Thats why a lot of my snow plowing has been done in reverse......
Dan
Although I’ve not measured them, My blade appears to have evenly-spaced pin-holes for 0/90, 67.5, 45, 27.5 degree positions….can be completely reversed for pushing at same angles.
If you are wanting to clear 1/3rd inches of snow
If you're wanting to clear 1/3rd of an inch of snow I don't think a rear blade will do much good! You would have to have perfectly level roadway with no crown to scrape anything. Might need a leaf blower !!!!!