Front PTO Loader Pump Removal

Reblinn

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Oct 7, 2020
12
3
3
Wisconsin
So I have a 1979 L245dt with the front mounted pump for the woods 1200 loader. The fan belt broke and it looks like the front shaft that drives the loader pump needs to be removed to get a new belt on. If I unbolt the pump from the loader frame will it simply pull forward away from the tractor? Are there clips or bolts on the shaft that need to be addressed first? Anything else need to be done to swap the belt out?
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,407
4,901
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
Generally speaking, yes, you remove 2 or 4 pump mounting bolts and slide the pump away from engine just enough(1-2") to get new belt in.
Just be sure pump is supported and line up the coupling when reinstalling the pump.
I always ordered 2 belts when doing the forklift..nice to have a spare....
Also , after new belts been run for few hours, check/readjust the tension.
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,407
4,901
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
There usually will be a 'lovejoy' style rubber coupling, 1/2 on pump, 1/2 on crankshaft, rubber between them. usually it'll stay on one of the halfs.
 

Russell King

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,364
1,415
113
Austin, Texas
There should be some type of coupling between the tractor shaft and the pump shaft that will have to be disconnected to allow the pump to move.

Half of the coupling will be on each shaft with something to connect them together.

The coupling is often a double roller chain across two sprockets but there are many different types that can be used
 

Reblinn

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Oct 7, 2020
12
3
3
Wisconsin
Will try and post pictures when I get back to the tractor. My biggest concern is that when/if something breaks that the part is obsolete. With the tractor being 45 years old I never know if things are stuck together with age and should be able to separate or there's a fastening method I can't easily see. Definitely not a mechanic by any means but trying to learn as I go.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

TheOldHokie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
8,737
4,479
113
Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
Will try and post pictures when I get back to the tractor. My biggest concern is that when/if something breaks that the part is obsolete. With the tractor being 45 years old I never know if things are stuck together with age and should be able to separate or there's a fastening method I can't easily see. Definitely not a mechanic by any means but trying to learn as I go.
As long as you exercise good common sense there is no reason anything should break. If stumped by the mechanism post a picture or two and ask again.

Dan
 

Reblinn

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Oct 7, 2020
12
3
3
Wisconsin

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,407
4,901
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
hmm, splined coupling not a 'lovejoy',probably on a flexible shaft.
I've never done one but...
I'd mix ATF with acetone (50/50), then pour it into the grooves and splines at the coupling,'flood it' ,wait a few hours, do it again, several times. The idea is to have lots of patience to allow the ATF/ace combo to work it's magic. Any kind of thin 'penetrating' oily stuff will work, though it takes longer in the cold.
The coupling looks like a long springy cable , but it will come out when you pull the pump out.
While you're in the neighbourhood, waiting for the 'magic', scrape out most of the grungy gunk that's laying about. Once you've installed the belt, reinstalled the pump, spray some 'oil' onto that 'springy coupling' section. That actually would like some oil.
Depending on how the pump's mounted, put a box or shelf to support it. I'm thinking the coupling overlap would be 2 inches( ? ), so when you tug, tug on the pump, be careful you don't go 5 or 6. it might come free real fast ! When you reinstall, add a smooth layer of never seize on both parts, wipe off excess,so it doesn't splatter onto the new belt, making it slippery and forcing you to do it all over again.....
 

North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
30,197
6,367
113
Sandpoint, ID
Just pull the three bolts off of the coupling and then the bolts on the pump, slide forward and replace belt.
slide back and replace bolts.
done:

1706480526841.png
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,407
4,901
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
gee, that sounds a lot easier than my way ! Assuming you can get INTO that area easily and of course find the bolts after they fall out, onto floor and 'magically' disappear.
 

Reblinn

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Oct 7, 2020
12
3
3
Wisconsin
That's what I thought also so I tried it. Unbolted the flange, unbolted the pump, pulled tapped wiggled no forward movement. I'm not sure why it didn't work but thought maybe the flange was pressed into that pulley?
 

Russell King

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,364
1,415
113
Austin, Texas
Look into that area where the pulley and shaft bolt together carefully with a flashlight and maybe a mirror.

It looks like the shaft has three recessed areas that have a bolt but the area that is solid may be where a bolt is located that attaches the shaft to the pulley. That would make a stronger bolted joint so there may be 6 bolts total (but maybe only three attach the shaft).

While you have the belt off would be a great time to get some degreaser into that area behind the pulley to clean it up some so that gunk won’t get onto your new belt.
 

Reblinn

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Oct 7, 2020
12
3
3
Wisconsin
Definitely going to clean it up and de-gunk everything. Unfortunately this may have to wait a couple weeks now. I'll try and keep everyone updated once I get it back and running. I do like this tractor, great size for firewood and pushing brush piles, doing food plots etc. Just seems like there's always something to fix or tinker with on it. I guess that's the joy of old iron. Thanks for all the help so far!!!
 

Reblinn

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Oct 7, 2020
12
3
3
Wisconsin
Well... I think it's smooth sailing from here. PB blaster to the rescue!!!! I soaked the junction where the flex shaft mated to the flange on the crankshaft, a few taps on the bracket that holds the pump and presto! Now the shaft is split and I should be able to snake a new belt in tomorrow when the parts store opens. I think I'm going to take the advice I found on another forum and put two belts in right away and just zip tie the second one out of the way until it's needed. Hopefully 20 years from now! Thanks for all the advice and suggestions!! This site is invaluable to new owners of old tractors!!!
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,407
4,901
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
NICE to hear it moved for you ! i was hoping you would hammer the adapter and then break it. While cast is tough, cold can make them brittle'
GREAT idea, tying up a second belt. I didn't have that luxury on the forklift....
progress !!
 

Reblinn

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Oct 7, 2020
12
3
3
Wisconsin
Got some time this morning and got the new belt on. Seems to be working correctly. I'll check the tension in about 5 hours of run time and again as needed. Thanks again for all the advice!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user