No power to the fuel cut off solenoid. B2650

[Saul78]

I'm going by what the WSM states.
I've given you those pages.
Normally run solenoids have 2 wires one for pull in and one for hold.
Your solenoid has one wire (white) for both pull in and hold.
That would tell me its only powered part of the time.
But It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong on how Kubota is running it.

My solenoid is a two wire, not one wire. The one in the pic is what mine looks like.
The tractor is a 2019.

 

[Saul78]

For a number of reasons I encourage you to see the troubleshooting process through before throwing a relay at it.
#1. It will be educational and what you learn will directly relate to troubleshooting any electrical problem you have in the future.
#2. You will have to look long and far before finding another teacher with equal patience and knowledge to Wolf"s.
#3. It's the least one should do if someone takes time to look up and post information then show willingness to walk them through it.
#4. It helps set a badly needed president that can take OTT to the next level.
#5 You walk away with a bit of pride in saving several hundred $ with a small investment in time and parts.
#6. The problem doesn't necessarily have to ly with the relay, reading what wolf highlighted from WSM tells us it can be the seat safety. Winding up with a spare relay doesn't help the objective in #5.
On to the technical chore. Alligator clips on your meter leads are like extra hands that allow you to use and watch meter while hands mess with things or siting at operator's station so that all safeties are satisfied. Which brings us to putting meter across power in and power out terminals of relay to see if contacts are welded together and/or if signal wire is telling relay to close 100% of time rather than momentarily as ignition is turned off. A bum seat switch would do that. I THINK but not positive that relay has built-in delayed action which would be good to know while testing ( I defer to Wolf as to whether that's correct). The delay/momentary feature could trick you into thinking solenoid isn't getting power. With Wolf's diagrams and a little help you can nail the fault down. Just walk away if you feel like giving up or throwing something then come back after your head is clear.

Relay is a cheap fix, as for the seat switch and other safety switch in his diagrams, if any of them where faulty the tractor would not turn over. Mine does, it's just not getting fuel. Again I have bench tested the solenoid, tested the wires for power turning the ignition switch on and off and still no power to the plug. I have checked and replaced all fuses that looked questionable. No corrosion on any terminals. The tractor is a 2019 with only 200hrs on it.

It does start and run with the solenoid removed.

 

[jaxs]

Relay is a cheap fix, as to the seat switch and other safety switch in his diagrams, if any of then where faulty the tractor would not turn over. Mine does, it's just not getting fuel. Again I have bench tested the solenoid, tested the wires for power turning the ignition switch on and off and still no power to the plug. I have checked and replaced all fuses that looked questionable. No corrosion on any terminals. The tractor is a 2019 with only 200hrs on it.

It does start and run with the solenoid removed.

I understand what you are saying. $45 is a bargain if it fixes the problem and saves messing around with it. Please let us know if that's all it takes to get it going. We (at least I am ) are ever eager to learn and this set up sounds different to most. What isn't clear is why tractor refuses to start when no power is applied to solenoid. As Wolf said complaints involving solenoid are normally because it isn't killing engine when key is turned off. And again as Wolf said "Kubota occasionally changes how they do things". It took me a while to sort out the fact seat switch serves dual functions (kill engine if operator leaves seat and prevent starter operation) and when one function fails the other is often not effected. Good luck.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

NOT a 'bargain' based on your post of this....
I bench test the solenoid and it's good. Plug the solenoid back in and grounded it, turn the key and nothing.
something's 'rotten in Denmark'... if the stop solenoid works fine on the bench....

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Relay is a cheap fix, as for the seat switch and other safety switch in his diagrams, if any of them where faulty the tractor would not turn over. Mine does, it's just not getting fuel. Again I have bench tested the solenoid, tested the wires for power turning the ignition switch on and off and still no power to the plug. I have checked and replaced all fuses that looked questionable. No corrosion on any terminals. The tractor is a 2019 with only 200hrs on it.

It does start and run with the solenoid removed.

The relay is easy to test in-place. With the key on (and possibly with it off) the red wire should show 12v. If not there is a fuse or connection (or possibly ignition switch) problem. If the interlocks are made, the green wire should show 12v. If not there is an interlock switch not made. If the red and green have 12v, the white should have 12v. If not, make sure the black wire has a good ground. If so, the relay is bad.

The diagram North Idaho Wolfman posted shows the relay power going through the ignition switch, while the one I have, for cab, shows direct from battery, with fuse.

BTW, your solenoid has, I'm pretty sure, an internal switch on the pull-in coil that opens when the plunger is nearly in. Both of the wires are tied together and energize simultaneously.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

BTW, your solenoid has, I'm pretty sure, an internal switch on the pull-in coil that opens when the plunger is nearly in. Both of the wires are tied together and energize simultaneously.

Thanks for this note:
Then it's possible for a single wire solenoid to be powered all the time.
Learn something all the time.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Do you have a factory cab?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Thanks for this note:
Then it's possible for a single wire solenoid to be powered all the time.
Learn something all the time.

Most of Kubota's diagrams don't show the switch, but I think a few do. I'd like to see somebody cut one open.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

send me one, I'll crack it open !!
heck, I'm curious as to the black posty thing in that $45 bargain in post #21 ?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

send me one, I'll crack it open !!
heck, I'm curious as to the black posty thing in that $45 bargain in post #21 ?

They're officially called internally switched dual coil solenoids. I saw a warning to make sure the application allows the core to pull in fully, or it'll burn out quickly. Makes sense.

That black thing is a soft drain/vent tube. It would be installed on the bottom.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

wow, that's weird ! it looks like part of the molded plastic for the wiring.never seen a solenoid needing a 'drain/vent tube'
so today hasn't been a total loss !