No power to the fuel cut off solenoid. B2650
- Thread starter Saul78
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85Hokie
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Saul,
welcome to the forum -
If all of a sudden and fuse is good - you check for voltage to solenoid?
welcome to the forum -
If all of a sudden and fuse is good - you check for voltage to solenoid?
I bench test the solenoid and it's good. Plug the solenoid back in and grounded it, turn the key and nothing. Got my test light out and test both the hold and switch power to the plug and nothing. Checked all fuses and they are good.
Is there a relay to the fuel cut off solenoid?? Or is it controlled by the switch?
This tractor only has 200hrs on it.
North Idaho Wolfman
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
FYI: The solenoid is only powered on shutdown. 
So it runs and you can't get it to shut down right?
So it runs and you can't get it to shut down right?
No, it will not start. You can normally hear the solenoid click when you turn the key on, the plunger pulling in to let fuel flow. Now nothing. Like I said previously I took it out and bench tested it. It works fine. All fuses are good. From my research, the solenoid is grounded to the block/pump, one of the two wires to the solenoid is a hold to hold the plunger open and the other switched to the key. So I'm assuming the relay went bad as the tractor is practically new.FYI: The solenoid is only powered on shutdown.
So it runs and you can't get it to shut down right?
North Idaho Wolfman
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The STOP solenoid (not Run solenoid is powered when it stops not starts).
Pull the solenoid off and see if the tractor starts, bet it does if everything else is right.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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The relays are under the dash panel, open the hood and look under the dash or you will have to pull the cover.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Cool, but I'm assuming there's more than one? There's one on what I would call the fire wall. But from what I have seen there are more under the dash panel. I was hoping for a detailed location?
If not I can do the elimination process.
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There is only one fuel cut off solenoid, so I'm confused as to what you are saying.
The fuel cut off solenoid dictates run and off, solenoid plunger pulls in and it runs, plunger drops it turns off. Hence why I pulled it to see if it would start and it did.
So why are you saying they're different?
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
North Idaho Wolfman
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I'm going by what the WSM states.
I've given you those pages.
Normally run solenoids have 2 wires one for pull in and one for hold.
Your solenoid has one wire (white) for both pull in and hold.
That would tell me its only powered part of the time.
But It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong on how Kubota is running it.
In my case where my engine would not start, it was a corroded wire leading into the 30A fuse holder for the key stop solenoid. I had no power on either side of the fuse when I tested it. The supply wire simply fell out of the crimp terminal. I had to open up the loom and keep cutting back the wire until I had clean copper again.
The key stop solenoid relay is right above the 30A fuse holder.
The key stop solenoid relay is right above the 30A fuse holder.
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For a number of reasons I encourage you to see the troubleshooting process through before throwing a relay at it.
#1. It will be educational and what you learn will directly relate to troubleshooting any electrical problem you have in the future.
#2. You will have to look long and far before finding another teacher with equal patience and knowledge to Wolf"s.
#3. It's the least one should do if someone takes time to look up and post information then show willingness to walk them through it.
#4. It helps set a badly needed president that can take OTT to the next level.
#5 You walk away with a bit of pride in saving several hundred $ with a small investment in time and parts.
#6. The problem doesn't necessarily have to ly with the relay, reading what wolf highlighted from WSM tells us it can be the seat safety. Winding up with a spare relay doesn't help the objective in #5.
On to the technical chore. Alligator clips on your meter leads are like extra hands that allow you to use and watch meter while hands mess with things or siting at operator's station so that all safeties are satisfied. Which brings us to putting meter across power in and power out terminals of relay to see if contacts are welded together and/or if signal wire is telling relay to close 100% of time rather than momentarily as ignition is turned off. A bum seat switch would do that. I THINK but not positive that relay has built-in delayed action which would be good to know while testing ( I defer to Wolf as to whether that's correct). The delay/momentary feature could trick you into thinking solenoid isn't getting power. With Wolf's diagrams and a little help you can nail the fault down. Just walk away if you feel like giving up or throwing something then come back after your head is clear.
#1. It will be educational and what you learn will directly relate to troubleshooting any electrical problem you have in the future.
#2. You will have to look long and far before finding another teacher with equal patience and knowledge to Wolf"s.
#3. It's the least one should do if someone takes time to look up and post information then show willingness to walk them through it.
#4. It helps set a badly needed president that can take OTT to the next level.
#5 You walk away with a bit of pride in saving several hundred $ with a small investment in time and parts.
#6. The problem doesn't necessarily have to ly with the relay, reading what wolf highlighted from WSM tells us it can be the seat safety. Winding up with a spare relay doesn't help the objective in #5.
On to the technical chore. Alligator clips on your meter leads are like extra hands that allow you to use and watch meter while hands mess with things or siting at operator's station so that all safeties are satisfied. Which brings us to putting meter across power in and power out terminals of relay to see if contacts are welded together and/or if signal wire is telling relay to close 100% of time rather than momentarily as ignition is turned off. A bum seat switch would do that. I THINK but not positive that relay has built-in delayed action which would be good to know while testing ( I defer to Wolf as to whether that's correct). The delay/momentary feature could trick you into thinking solenoid isn't getting power. With Wolf's diagrams and a little help you can nail the fault down. Just walk away if you feel like giving up or throwing something then come back after your head is clear.
Those wanting to troubleshoot electrical should pay close attention to what you said. Not only does it bring to light that problems are often simple as disconnected wire,it carries a hidden message of what caused wire to fall off. The fact wire was corroded well back up into insulation means it began with high resistance contact between wire and terminal (poor crimp) or between terminal and post on fuse holder. Be on alert for discolored terminals while preforming routine maintenance. Terminals often preform for days are weeks after initially discoloring before totally failing. High resistance is like a snowball on a hill, it feeds from it self while growing bigger/worse.