L6060 Operating RPM's

[teufelwerk]

Ok guys. Another newbie question. What RPM's do you run for various work? I have a steep, sloped driveway (currently ice/snow coated) in tight quarters so have been running in low 4wd, loaded rear tires, and chains with RPM's in 1200-1500 range. Only doing snow clearing with bucket and moving some lighter items with pallet forks. I understand that I'll have to rev things up when using PTO attachments. I've been reading that perhaps I should be running higher RPM's to keep diesel particulate filter in good shape. Also, how long should I warm up engine before using in sub-freezing temps? I shoot for 3-5 minutes currently. I have gone through my manuals and they are not very specific when it comes to these points. Thoughts? And thank you...

 

[GreensvilleJay]

BX25 shouldn't have DPF.
warm up time in sub freezing...5-10 minutes, and cycle controls to see how fast they are from 'normal'.
1200-1500 seems low to me.
2500 on my BX23S today to push heavy ,wet snow
check temp gauge, diesel like heat,so NOT near the 'C'.

 

[SDT]

Ok guys. Another newbie question. What RPM's do you run for various work? I have a steep, sloped driveway (currently ice/snow coated) in tight quarters so have been running in low 4wd, loaded rear tires, and chains with RPM's in 1200-1500 range. Only doing snow clearing with bucket and moving some lighter items with pallet forks. I understand that I'll have to rev things up when using PTO attachments. I've been reading that perhaps I should be running higher RPM's to keep diesel particulate filter in good shape. Also, how long should I warm up engine before using in sub-freezing temps? I shoot for 3-5 minutes currently. I have gone through my manuals and they are not very specific when it comes to these points. Thoughts? And thank you...

BX engines are RPM engines, so one must operate at higher RPM in order to develope HP.

1,200 - 1,500 RPM is rather low for such engines but no need to worry about DPF as BXs do not have such.

Appropriate warm-up time depends upon ambient temperature and is more important for the HST than the engine. In my 50+ years of equipment operation I have rarely (I did not say never.) warmed equipment for more than a very few minutes before moving but do not work anything (especially HSTs) hard before the lubricants have warmed considerably.

I would think that your policy of 3-5 minutes is appropriate for light work unless ambient temperature is sub-zero.

 

[Gaspasser]

Sorry. Seems I have 2 logins and posted under wrong one. Talking about L6060. How do I eliminate my old sign in name? Thanks guys.

 

[85Hokie]

I have your exact machine, and for the last 11 years I find it simply anemic at anything below 2,000 rpms.

Now, am I in a hurry? Trying to get things done real fast? NO!

That little 3 cyl diesel can barely run at idle (1400 rpms) and the FEL will take long amount of time to move at that rate.

So - you say you are a newbie, that absolutly fine - not knowing is a good thing! KNOWING and then doing something that is not correct - well, we have other words for that.

The first thing you need to understand - and this seems to be an internal thought with most people running a diesel for the first time, is that it will HURT the machine to run it up in a higher RPM !!! The thought is, baby this thing and it will last a much longer time!

is that IT IS NOOOOOTTTT designed to run "well" at a low rpm!!

YOU say - why not? Each diesel - and O yes there a thousands of different models that all are somewhat different, but they all have a spot that makes "good" TORQUE - aka a max twisting force.

YOU want to run YOUR machine at THAT spot - that RPM !!!! Why? Because engineers did the math a while back and designed the bore and stroke to make THAT engine to be MORE efficient at a certain RPM.


Diesels are NOT like gasoline machines - which some can get way up there in RPM's - but they do that to make HP !

YOU want your machine to pump the hydraulic fluid at a rate that makes everything flow smoothly.

AND that is not at idle - AND no - running wide the hell open 100% is not what I am saying either.

Try 2500 and see what that does for you btw.

SDT said the same thing I am - he got the point a lot faster than I did!!!!

 

[teufelwerk]

Thanks guys...

 

[fried1765]

Ok guys. Another newbie question. What RPM's do you run for various work? I have a steep, sloped driveway (currently ice/snow coated) in tight quarters so have been running in low 4wd, loaded rear tires, and chains with RPM's in 1200-1500 range. Only doing snow clearing with bucket and moving some lighter items with pallet forks. I understand that I'll have to rev things up when using PTO attachments. I've been reading that perhaps I should be running higher RPM's to keep diesel particulate filter in good shape. Also, how long should I warm up engine before using in sub-freezing temps? I shoot for 3-5 minutes currently. I have gone through my manuals and they are not very specific when it comes to these points. Thoughts? And thank you...

Your avatar shows that you have both a Kx033 mini-ex, and a BX25.
Both of those machines under 25 HP, after which a DPF is required.
Neither of your listed machines should be equipped with a DPF.

 

[mcmxi]

Sorry. Seems I have 2 logins and posted under wrong one. Talking about L6060. How do I eliminate my old sign in name? Thanks guys.

Seems that no one actually reads previous posts in this thread. You've clearly stated that you have an L6060 and that @teufelwerk is an old sign in.

OK ... to your question. I have an MX6000 which is very similar to what you have. 1,200 to 1,500 rpm is too low and you might run into way more active regen cycles. I blow snow at 2,200 rpm, push snow at 2,000 rpm, and when I come back up the drive ( I push downhill) I run at 2,400 rpm. I'll run at 1,500 rpm when puttering around for short periods such as hooking up attachments, hooking up to a trailer etc.

This approach results in less fuel consumption and apparently fewer active regens. I can't remember the last one. I run Schaeffer fully synthetic 5W-40 oil, and according to the experts at Banks, oil can affect regen cycles. The formation of ash inside the DPF is a big problem since it can't be burned off the way carbon can. It just plugs up the ceramic core.

 

[Moose7060]

Ok guys. Another newbie question. What RPM's do you run for various work? I have a steep, sloped driveway (currently ice/snow coated) in tight quarters so have been running in low 4wd, loaded rear tires, and chains with RPM's in 1200-1500 range. Only doing snow clearing with bucket and moving some lighter items with pallet forks. I understand that I'll have to rev things up when using PTO attachments. I've been reading that perhaps I should be running higher RPM's to keep diesel particulate filter in good shape. Also, how long should I warm up engine before using in sub-freezing temps? I shoot for 3-5 minutes currently. I have gone through my manuals and they are not very specific when it comes to these points. Thoughts? And thank you...

Page 33 of the L6060 manual indicates recommended warm up time for different temperature ranges.

Warm-Up Transmission Oil in the Low Temperature Range Hydraulic oil serves as transmission fluid. In cold weather, the oil may be cold with increased viscosity. This can cause delayed oil circulation or abnormally low hydraulic pressure for some time after engine start-up. This in turn can result in trouble in the hydraulic system. To prevent the above, observe the following instructions: Warm up the engine at about 50% of rated rpm according to the table below: A Do not operate the tractor under full load condition until it is sufficiently warmed up.
Ambient temperature Warm-up time requirement Higher than -10 (14 ) Approx. 5 minutes -15 to -10 (5 to 14 ) 5 to 10 minutes -20 to -15 (-4 to 5 ) 10 to 20 minutes Below -20 (-4 ) More than 20 minutes

 

[mikester]

I use auto-throttle for driving or grading, 540 pto rpm. (2400 at engine?) for pto work. ~2000 rpm for loader or BH work. Best practice is don't lug the engine.

I fast idle on warm up until my temp gauge shows something so maybe 1-2 minutes warm up? Parked in heated barn.

No DPF or DEF to worry about on my machines. I run full throttle on DEF equipment like CTL and excavators.

 

[Gaspasser]

Page 33 of the L6060 manual indicates recommended warm up time for different temperature ranges.

Warm-Up Transmission Oil in the Low Temperature Range Hydraulic oil serves as transmission fluid. In cold weather, the oil may be cold with increased viscosity. This can cause delayed oil circulation or abnormally low hydraulic pressure for some time after engine start-up. This in turn can result in trouble in the hydraulic system. To prevent the above, observe the following instructions: Warm up the engine at about 50% of rated rpm according to the table below: A Do not operate the tractor under full load condition until it is sufficiently warmed up.
Ambient temperature Warm-up time requirement Higher than -10 (14 ) Approx. 5 minutes -15 to -10 (5 to 14 ) 5 to 10 minutes -20 to -15 (-4 to 5 ) 10 to 20 minutes Below -20 (-4 ) More than 20 minutes

Thank you. Missed that.

 

[Moose7060]

Thank you. Missed that.

No Problem. Nice machine. Good luck.

 

[woodman55]

I use the ATA ( auto throttle advance). I wait until I see movement on the temp gauge, then go easy until warmed up a bit more. I also use the H-DS (two speed power shift) on the steering column, one of my favorite features of the grand L series.

 

[Gaspasser]

Thank all. Appreciate all the knowledge sharing. Great forum, great folks.