fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
KMS 180 backhoe / backactor Metal in oil and how to fix it.
- Thread starter mini-mayhem
- Start date
I do plan to see what can be done to have that old pump as a spare...aw... you 'cheated'.. I was hoping to see a full length video of you TIG welding new teeth onto the pump shaft, filling them to SAE dimensions, balancing the shaft and then reinstalling the rebuilt pump !
have to admit that new pump does look a LOT better than the original, that must have a zillion revolutions on it.
Yeah plus VAT, plus shipping. The price is reasonable so I didn't put too many hours into looking.
Small update
The hydraulic shop are making progress on the cylinders.
And the new pump has arrived.
Should I rinse it through to be sure there is no manufacturing swarf left in it?
The hydraulic shop are making progress on the cylinders.
And the new pump has arrived.
Should I rinse it through to be sure there is no manufacturing swarf left in it?
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I've never bothered ......
wow, it's too pretty to install !!!!
when you do, maybe add some 'never seize' or at least oil on the PTO splines and the C-clip.
it's an 'ounce of prevention' thing.
wow, it's too pretty to install !!!!
when you do, maybe add some 'never seize' or at least oil on the PTO splines and the C-clip.
it's an 'ounce of prevention' thing.
I got another unit of workshop time this weekend, while my attempts to set up the new gas bottle for the welder were put on ice due to the regulator and bottle threads both being male! This gave me an opportunity to look at the backhoe stabiliser leg tubes, which were bowed out slightly.
A look inside and I was slightly surprised by what I saw.
The bottom of the leg is full of some crud! Actually both legs!
I got this much out fairly easily, maybe 500g or so ( about a lb)
it looked better, I could see the bolt hole on the bottom
With some success, I thought to prevent future build up. To do so I drilled at 10mm hole in the bottom of the leg to let the future build up get out of there. I also thought about some kind of sealing cap for the leg to prevent the dirt and weather ingress, once it is back in service.
The only way i could think to get the last remnants was a 1metre ( about a yard) long wire brush. An angle grinder cup brush with a length of all thread.
In action cooking up a mess!
The results were a big improvment
Another few rinses with degreaser should get that cleaned up and be ready to accept the cylinders when they are ready.
The snow and cold is really stopping the work progressing faster, it is -26C ( -15F) here today.
A look inside and I was slightly surprised by what I saw.
The bottom of the leg is full of some crud! Actually both legs!
I got this much out fairly easily, maybe 500g or so ( about a lb)
it looked better, I could see the bolt hole on the bottom
With some success, I thought to prevent future build up. To do so I drilled at 10mm hole in the bottom of the leg to let the future build up get out of there. I also thought about some kind of sealing cap for the leg to prevent the dirt and weather ingress, once it is back in service.
The only way i could think to get the last remnants was a 1metre ( about a yard) long wire brush. An angle grinder cup brush with a length of all thread.
In action cooking up a mess!
The results were a big improvment
Another few rinses with degreaser should get that cleaned up and be ready to accept the cylinders when they are ready.
The snow and cold is really stopping the work progressing faster, it is -26C ( -15F) here today.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
brrr. I feel k-k-k-k-kold now !
can you spray / dribble 'rust-check' or 'oil' down those tubes before reassembling ?
can you spray / dribble 'rust-check' or 'oil' down those tubes before reassembling ?
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
If Phosphoric acid (often called OSPHO in USA) is available in Latvia, that would be a good product to combat rust inside the leg.
I should be able to.
I'll take a look and see what can be had locally.
It would make me happier to have the the rust dealt with.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I would expect that Phosphoric acid can be found anywhere, though it may not be sold in the EU specifically for rust prevention.
It actually combines with existing rust to act as a sealer/primer, for painting steel, however inside those legs, it might not really need any sort of protective topcoat.
Everybody loves an update.
I have got 5 of 7 cyclinders back from the shop, cleaned, inspected and resealed where neccessary.
I also have the valve block from the shop.
In the mean time I managed to get some time to improve the hydraulic oil tank in 3 minor ways
1. A boss for a magnetic sump stud. Although I can't see how metal will get into the tank if the filter is working properly on the return.
2. a sight level and thermometer.
3. a valve on the Pump suction line so that I can isloate the pump without losing a tank worth of oil.
Measure and mark
Nuts in place
Everything welded up.
Typically, the job was small, but there was some yak shaving to get there, building a welding trolley, buying a new weldng mask, a saga with gas bottles and regulators, a workshop rewire and a misadventure into chinese mini excavator attachments, which are so cheap but also too small for my KMS180.
With the weather heading for a short period of positive temperatures, theres is a chance to clean all the lines and get the cylinders I have fitted while waiting on the leg cylinders.
I have got 5 of 7 cyclinders back from the shop, cleaned, inspected and resealed where neccessary.
I also have the valve block from the shop.
In the mean time I managed to get some time to improve the hydraulic oil tank in 3 minor ways
1. A boss for a magnetic sump stud. Although I can't see how metal will get into the tank if the filter is working properly on the return.
2. a sight level and thermometer.
3. a valve on the Pump suction line so that I can isloate the pump without losing a tank worth of oil.
Measure and mark
Nuts in place
Everything welded up.
Typically, the job was small, but there was some yak shaving to get there, building a welding trolley, buying a new weldng mask, a saga with gas bottles and regulators, a workshop rewire and a misadventure into chinese mini excavator attachments, which are so cheap but also too small for my KMS180.
With the weather heading for a short period of positive temperatures, theres is a chance to clean all the lines and get the cylinders I have fitted while waiting on the leg cylinders.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Another weekend with a chance to progress this project.
I managed to get the tank rinised out, degreased, and trial fitted
Here you can see the new sight guage and thermometer.
Now that I can see everything fits well, I can paint the tank.
I also got the slew cyclinders in position
I used the photos I took before disassembly to get the hydraulic lines connected in the right places
I blew the lines out with compressed air to make sure they are clean.
The arm cylinders are next for refitting and then I am still waiting on the leg cyclinders to come back from the service shop.
I managed to get the tank rinised out, degreased, and trial fitted
Here you can see the new sight guage and thermometer.
Now that I can see everything fits well, I can paint the tank.
I also got the slew cyclinders in position
I used the photos I took before disassembly to get the hydraulic lines connected in the right places
I blew the lines out with compressed air to make sure they are clean.
The arm cylinders are next for refitting and then I am still waiting on the leg cyclinders to come back from the service shop.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I have had a good week of progress. I fitted the arm cylinders, made a mounting bracket for the pump, got a new return hose, hose flanges for the pump bought and fitted.
The leg cylinders came back from the rebuild. With the arm bled and supporting its own weight i tried to drive out of my temporary workshop, but the subframe was caught on the low rise of the wall, this was made worse by the extra weight hanging from it and then due to previously only fitting one front mounting pin, i pulled the subframe off the rear mount late one evening. The next morning with a clear head and some hard thinking it was levered back into place and secured at 4 points as it should be.
To refit the leg cylinders i backed over an in built car ramp which gave the clearance needed to slide in the leg cylinders.
Today i had a good shake down session, tidied up hoses, tightened leaking joints, greased where i could with the gub and my fingers where i couldn't get the grease gun in. Ill be getting a flexible head for this back actor as it has some tight spots to get grease in.
Wow this machine really digs now! The speed is ideal, the power is great and able to break through 2 inches of frozen ground when digging.
The outstanding issue is the boom cylinder has some serious cylinder drift constantly. I will have to try bleeding it again.
I dug out 7 small cherry trees where we are planning to build a new house and re planted them in a fraction of the time it would have taken with my shovel!
Here is to more digging!
The leg cylinders came back from the rebuild. With the arm bled and supporting its own weight i tried to drive out of my temporary workshop, but the subframe was caught on the low rise of the wall, this was made worse by the extra weight hanging from it and then due to previously only fitting one front mounting pin, i pulled the subframe off the rear mount late one evening. The next morning with a clear head and some hard thinking it was levered back into place and secured at 4 points as it should be.
To refit the leg cylinders i backed over an in built car ramp which gave the clearance needed to slide in the leg cylinders.
Today i had a good shake down session, tidied up hoses, tightened leaking joints, greased where i could with the gub and my fingers where i couldn't get the grease gun in. Ill be getting a flexible head for this back actor as it has some tight spots to get grease in.
Wow this machine really digs now! The speed is ideal, the power is great and able to break through 2 inches of frozen ground when digging.
The outstanding issue is the boom cylinder has some serious cylinder drift constantly. I will have to try bleeding it again.
I dug out 7 small cherry trees where we are planning to build a new house and re planted them in a fraction of the time it would have taken with my shovel!
Here is to more digging!
Attachments
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I have had a few months of use of the backhoe now. A couple of issues have arisen in that time.
1 leg cylinder is leaking, this has gotten worse over time and is now off the backhoe waiting to go to the hydraulic shop.
The bigger issue by far is the boom dropping under its own weight, this problem too has worsened over time ( or as the weather has warmed up). This has got to the point now it will drop before I can get back in the cab to drive.
Today I have been trouble shooting the cylinder.
First thing I tried way keeping the control pulled back to keep the boom up, this worked with the pump running, but without the pump it dropped.
Now I have disconnecte the cylinder from the boom at one end so I can try bleeding it by using the full travel a couple of times.
On the extension I noticed that the piston rod has droplets on it , I wiped the cyclinder down and sure enough on the next extension there were more droplets
you can see them in this photo
While doing this i noticed that when the rod is full retracted it seems to rebound a little on its own as I let go of the controls. about 10mm (3/8").
I tried the drastic action of opening the lines and letting fluid through to see if any trapped air might be released, but this didnt improve the situation.
Video of cylinder rebound when retracted
And lastly
Does anyone know what this 'valve' could be?
1 leg cylinder is leaking, this has gotten worse over time and is now off the backhoe waiting to go to the hydraulic shop.
The bigger issue by far is the boom dropping under its own weight, this problem too has worsened over time ( or as the weather has warmed up). This has got to the point now it will drop before I can get back in the cab to drive.
Today I have been trouble shooting the cylinder.
First thing I tried way keeping the control pulled back to keep the boom up, this worked with the pump running, but without the pump it dropped.
Now I have disconnecte the cylinder from the boom at one end so I can try bleeding it by using the full travel a couple of times.
On the extension I noticed that the piston rod has droplets on it , I wiped the cyclinder down and sure enough on the next extension there were more droplets
you can see them in this photo
While doing this i noticed that when the rod is full retracted it seems to rebound a little on its own as I let go of the controls. about 10mm (3/8").
I tried the drastic action of opening the lines and letting fluid through to see if any trapped air might be released, but this didnt improve the situation.
Video of cylinder rebound when retracted
And lastly
Does anyone know what this 'valve' could be?