Drive shaft knocking sound

[DustyRusty]

I understand,........ but poster #13 described it as being new.

Please read post #3 in response to post #2, which was in response to post #1 where it was referred to as a "NEW" tractor. Next, please note the "Last edited: Today at 5:18 AM" where the word "NEW" has been removed. No need to apologize, you are forgiven!

 

[fried1765]

Please read post #3 in response to post #2, which was in response to post #1 where it was referred to as a "NEW" tractor. Next, please note the "Last edited: Today at 5:18 AM" where the word "NEW" has been removed. No need to apologize, you are forgiven!

It is ALL just TOO complicated for me.
Now,..... back to my nap!

 

[jaxs]

The spring in video pulls throwout bearing carrier back when clutch pedal is released. The shaft is called Pilot shaft and trasnfers power from clutch to tranny. I believe there is a problem with throw-out bearing or clutch- p plate- pilot bushing assembly. There is a removable plug on side of housing you can peek through but I doubt you can see the problem. I see a split in your future to inspect clutch.

 

[newshb_k]

The spring in video pulls throwout bearing carrier back when clutch pedal is released. The shaft is called Pilot shaft and trasnfers power from clutch to tranny. I believe there is a problem with throw-out bearing or clutch- p plate- pilot bushing assembly. There is a removable plug on side of housing you can peek through but I doubt you can see the problem. I see a split in your future to inspect clutch.

Thanks a lot for the feedback

I have been seeing several videos so far, and you pin pointed it, it is either the throw-out bearing, or the pilot pushing. My question, if any of those has issues, would the issue be permenant, or it could go on and off? since I changed the PTO gearing from 1 to N to 2, and then to N, and the wobbling gone, as I posted in one of the videos (can be seen below):
video

 

[jaxs]

Click here for a picture. Spring is item 7 and the rest should be self explanatory Go to site below if above doesn't work
www.messicks.com/ku/84587

 

[jaxs]

Thanks a lot for the feedback

I have been seeing several videos so far, and you pin pointed it, it is either the throw-out bearing, or the pilot pushing. My question, if any of those has issues, would the issue be permenant, or it could go on and off? since I changed the PTO gearing from 1 to N to 2, and then to N, and the wobbling gone, as I posted in one of the videos (can be seen below):
video

Those issues would be permanent. Movement and/or noise might change or go away when clutch is pushed or load is added (pto ingaged or tractor moving along in gear. Please forgive me but I've witnessed individuals becoming intangled with drive shafts. BE CARFUL DO NOT PUT HANDS OR TOOLS NEAR SHAFT WHILE TRATOR IS RUNNING.

 

[newshb_k]

Those issues would be permanent. Movement and/or noise might change or go away when clutch is pushed or load is added (pto ingaged or tractor moving along in gear. Please forgive me but I've witnessed individuals becoming intangled with drive shafts. BE CARFUL DO NOT PUT HANDS OR TOOLS NEAR SHAFT WHILE TRATOR IS RUNNING.

Thanks for the recommendation, sure would be extra cautious

Not sure why the issue appeared and disappeared, without adding any load or clutch wasn't pushed....I will keep looking and see if I can figure it out. Not ready yet for a split job, but sure it would be something am looking to do

 

[jaxs]

No you shouldn't spilt until this has been thougly investigated. Unfortunatly this is a common problem but it can get worse,,,,,, lots worse if not corrected in time. Which brings us to some questions that might shed light. Does the tractor have or look like it ever had a front loader or backhoe?
Were you able to find the parts blow up at Messicks? We wear that site out looking at how these tractors are put togeather and ordering parts. The black thing on shaft where it connects to tranny in video has some ball bearings inside that wear out and cause problems like yours. With wheels chocked and tractor NOT RUNNING you can try moving shaft with and without clutch pedal pushed. There are several threads on here about similar noise. Search Service Repair And Maintenance with terms like clutch and pilot. You came to the right place, everything that can happen has happened to someone of this bunch and every mistake that can be made has been made. You can expect a generous amount of help with finding it then fixing it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Have you greased it?
There is a grease zerk on the side of it.
Just a few Squirts.

After that if it continues, you'll need to split it and replace the throw-out bearing.
And while your in there, do it all, Pilot bearing, clutch plate, pressure plate and Throw-out bearing.

 

[newshb_k]

Have you greased it?
There is a grease zerk on the side of it.
Just a few Squirts.

After that if it continues, you'll need to split it and replace the throw-out bearing.
And while your in there, do it all, Pilot bearing, clutch plate, pressure plate and Throw-out bearing.

I will grease it, it hasn’t been greased, and seems previous owner didn’t. And will see if the issue returns

thanks

 

[jaxs]

I will grease it, it hasn’t been greased, and seems previous owner didn’t. And will see if the issue returns

thanks

I wouldn't dream of telling you not to grease it however I advise wearing googles while looking up at the shaft afterwards. Odds are high you will split tractor so I'll elaborate so that you can make informed decisions while ordering new parts for reassembly. Greasing that zerk serves one purpose and one purpose only. To prevent water and mud following shaft into clutch enclosure where flywheel slings it all over. There is a seal on each side of zerk to prevent grease escaping to clutch housing or atmosphere. That shaft dancing around has long ago destroyed both seals allowing grease to freely flow both directions ( see the black stains on either end of part zerk is mounted in? That's escaped grease). That's why I'd like you to wear eye protection after greasing zerk.
Anywho after you disassemble throw-out bearing carrier while splitting tractor you can see what I'm talking about. Contrary to popular belief, grease pumped into that zerk never comes near bearing or any other friction point UNLESS SEALS ARE MISSING as they appear to be on your tractor. When I reassemble tractors I never spend $50-$75 to replace seals and I advise zerk never be greased going forward UNLESS someone will drive tractor into stock ponds or creeks deep enough to submerge tractor.