I have a L 3800 hyd model and I want to plant some food plots. I have a disc but I need to bust up the suface layer of sod. What can I use and will this tractor handle it. BTW...it is 4 wd.
Can I turn over sod/pasture?
- Thread starter Gatormark
- Start date
i have a l3800 and i purchased a 60 inch tiller to use for food plots. i also had a spring tine i used behind my 4 wheeler made by kolpin dirtworks the only thing i had to change was the pin size from cat 0 to cat one and i used it this fall and was happy i could use it with my tractor.
I'm guessing by the model of your tractor that it has around 38 horsepower, right?
If so you should be able to pull a three bottom three point hitch moldboard plow. That will definitely turn you sod over, as long as you adjust it correctly. The problem would be to find one that hasn't been scrapped yet. Of course if you are just doing wildlife foodplots a two bottom would be big enough, but they usually cost as much or more than the larger units.
Robert
Robert
If so you should be able to pull a three bottom three point hitch moldboard plow. That will definitely turn you sod over, as long as you adjust it correctly. The problem would be to find one that hasn't been scrapped yet. Of course if you are just doing wildlife foodplots a two bottom would be big enough, but they usually cost as much or more than the larger units.
Robert
Robert
This should give you all the info you might need and from reading it I would say,, grab and growl,,, Just remember its not a great big tractor with 38 horse it should do what ever you want as long as you think before doind it
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/006/7/8/6784-kubota-l3800.html
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/006/7/8/6784-kubota-l3800.html
The tractor will tear out the sod just fine. It takes a few years after installation for sod to take deep root and grow. You may not want to really plow it under as its going to get messy as hell and be a pain the clean up. Maybe contace a sod farm and see if they can reclaim it. Sod is either laid down is small squares or put down in huge rolls. I do believe it has a thin layer of plastic in it to help hold it all together.
Cut the grass down as low as you can and then disc it. If your disc is heavy enough it will bust it up good with a couple of passes.
Busting the sod up wont be a big problem, the tricky part is to get all the sod out so it doesnt continue to grow in chunks. Tilling it under and burrying it under the dirt and then planting back on top wont work, the sod will keep growing.
Kubota Newbie
Active member
Equipment
M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Well... that's not really correct. Round-up as well as any other generic glyphosate or sulphosate (i.e. Touchdown or similar) products are contact herbicides that must be sprayed on growing foilage to translocate into the rest of the plant and kill it. Alone, these herbicides have absolutely no soil activity. Mixed with certain other herbicides the weed control period can be extended where a product with residual activity is added.
You can spray Round-up today and no-till your food plot tomorrow and all will be fine. Pre-spraying an area intended to be seeded conventionally (plow/disk/plant) with Round-up may help to weaken the sod and allow for easier working of the ground if done well in advance, however, it will not aid in weed control after the ground is worked.
You might check with your local Pheasants Forever chapter or similar wildlife group. Here in Knox County, Ohio the local PF chapter has a small no-till seeder for food plots suitable for use behind sub-compact tractors and large ATV's. They also have a no-till warm season/prarie grass drill available. They are rented through the local Soil and Water Conservation District for a minimal charge.
You can spray Round-up today and no-till your food plot tomorrow and all will be fine. Pre-spraying an area intended to be seeded conventionally (plow/disk/plant) with Round-up may help to weaken the sod and allow for easier working of the ground if done well in advance, however, it will not aid in weed control after the ground is worked.
You might check with your local Pheasants Forever chapter or similar wildlife group. Here in Knox County, Ohio the local PF chapter has a small no-till seeder for food plots suitable for use behind sub-compact tractors and large ATV's. They also have a no-till warm season/prarie grass drill available. They are rented through the local Soil and Water Conservation District for a minimal charge.
Kubota Newbie
Active member
Equipment
M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Clemson Extension says mow close spray new leaves with Round-up, may take 2-3 years. Spike herbicide would probably get it, but nothing else will grow there either, it works kind of slow too.
Have you ever read the label on a bottle of Roundup which states NOTHING can be planted in the area for a few weeks after spraying? Roundup is only a shot term 7-10 cure and wont kill permanently. Meanwhile it takes a few weeks after spraying for the soil rejuvenate itself before planting can occur. Which also depends on rainfall or watering to wash the contaminate away.
Bamboo wont kill off with a chemical. You have to dig down to the root zone with a backhoe and remove it all that way in order to get rid of the bamboo. In some instances you have to dig out the bamboo and put an in ground concrete form to keep the root zone from spreading.
Kubota Newbie
Active member
Equipment
M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Actually, I have read the label for Round-up, as well as those for generic products with the same active ingredient, and there is no pre-plant interval when using Round-up (glyphosate) alone. As a matter of fact, in many instances you can plant the crop, food plot, hay seeding, whatever, and spray Round-up after planting as long as the desired crop has not germinated. THERE IS NO RESIDUAL SOIL ACTIVITY with these products when used alone.
The only time pre-plant application intervals are necessary with these types of product is when they are pre-mixed with other crop protection products that do have residual soil activity or a potential for crop injury. In those instances the safe interval is dictated by the additional product being added, NOT the Round-up.
No-tilling crops and/or food plots remains an excellent alternative to conventional tillage for small operators where the planting equipment can be rented locally. Many people have a small sprayer capable of the herbicide application if calibrated carefully.
Always read and follow the label requirements for any crop production product. The label is the law!
The only time pre-plant application intervals are necessary with these types of product is when they are pre-mixed with other crop protection products that do have residual soil activity or a potential for crop injury. In those instances the safe interval is dictated by the additional product being added, NOT the Round-up.
No-tilling crops and/or food plots remains an excellent alternative to conventional tillage for small operators where the planting equipment can be rented locally. Many people have a small sprayer capable of the herbicide application if calibrated carefully.
Always read and follow the label requirements for any crop production product. The label is the law!