UniStrut or SuperStrut, how did you use it, Tractor Related?

[Runs With Scissors]

If you do not mind, more pictures and info would be handy.
I was going to go with a steel I-Beam though it would probably be expensive and over kill. I really hope to never lift anything that weighs over 500 pounds up to the second floor of my outbuilding that I am just starting.
So the (off) center joist supporting the purlins will/might a laminated beam, 40' long with perhaps UniStrut fthe length then on the floor with joists 12" on center, will be a steel beam 40' long. This laminated beam will have the tracks and a hoist to save me from carrying stuff up the stairs. So far the heaviest item will be a wet tile saw. My builder suggested using the tracking for a garage door but I think I want to go with something stiffer, like UniStrut. Clear as mud?
I did some looking about and trolleys abound for UniStrut. But I am always looking for information and ideas.

Here are some close up pics. I had to take the winch off because the grandkids did a real number in getting it twisted up.

Here are the "track supports" I turned 90 degrees.

Here is the "base" that I made to mount the winch too with the adjustable "feet"

Here is a shot from the bottom after I removed the winch for repair.

I have no idea why I made that black thing with the roller going between it.....But I'm sure it was a great idea and would have worked wonderfully.....

 

[GreensvilleJay]

'fairlead', usually a 4 roller device, used to keep cable 'nice'

your red hoist is same as my blue one and as yet another 'winter project' need to make a 'cable tensioner' for it to keep cable smooth..it's 'just' a springed flat plate of thin metal..'just'....

 

[trial and error]

'fairlead', usually a 4 roller device, used to keep cable 'nice'

your red hoist is same as my blue one and as yet another 'winter project' need to make a 'cable tensioner' for it to keep cable smooth..it's 'just' a springed flat plate of thin metal..'just'....

Mine got ratted up the first few uses, I ended up cutting 10-12 feet of cable off (since it had 50'i think) and I'll only ever need 20 at most. I can afford to lose another section in the future if it happens again . I find keeping tension on it when spooling helps a lot and guiding it in as best as possible with or without a load on it also helps the cable from cossing over and cutting into itself

 

[Runs With Scissors]

'fairlead', usually a 4 roller device, used to keep cable 'nice'

your red hoist is same as my blue one and as yet another 'winter project' need to make a 'cable tensioner' for it to keep cable smooth..it's 'just' a springed flat plate of thin metal..'just'....

Jay, the problem for me would be that I store it up high, so a "springed cable tensioner" would not let it come down freely, hence causing a "birds nest" when unspooling it.

I explained to him yesterday, how and why, to keep tension on it, and so far he has done a pretty good job. But he is 5, so I guess we will see...

With at least 3 more grandkids coming up the ranks, I foresee me getting pretty good at fixing "birds nests"....LOL

 

[UnEasyRider]

View attachment 115101
you asked....

I assume they slide...then a damn good idea!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

No, fixed. They 'magically' hold strut against bucket.
Version 2pointoh would be 2 longer sections of strut with a 3rd hook 'joining' the two sections.
so far haven't need a center hook.. I've hauled or dragged a lot of gnarly stuff, zero problems

I just didn't have the heart to drill or weld my new bucket and when I sell ,the bucket hasn't been 'butchered'

 

[Trimley]

I scrounge up a piece of Uni, a piece of 2x2, and a couple d-rings. I'm not sure which I'll end up using now. My loader come with the hooks already welded on.

 

[GrizBota]

I got a golf cart lid and made a canopy for my neighbor's hay raking tractor. Didn't need to drill any holes in the golf cart top or the tractor. Only use a short piece of unistrut on each side.

Nice triangulation. That extra hole in the ROPS hinge is handy.