Chain link fence install DIY?

racerboy

Active member

Equipment
B2601
May 10, 2021
110
49
28
NJ
Hi everyone. Not sure if this is the right forum to ask this, but I was looking to fence in a section the land behind my house that is mostly wooded. It would be mostly black chain link (375’) but would want the nice aluminum fence (60’) in the two areas that would be viewable from the driveway or the street. There would also be five different gates. I got a quote from a local fence contractor of $16,000. 😯 I didn’t realize fencing was so expensive. Is this something I can do myself, at least the chain link portion, and if so, can I use my B2601 to help dig the holes? Or would you rent/buy an auger? The contractor said he uses a Toro Dingo (side note: the whole purpose of this fence is to contain my cattle dog, named Dingo) to dig the holes. I live on top of a mountain with very rocky soil, so I don’t think digging holes by hand would be very effective. I’ve been reading everything I can on fence installs and it seems the consensus is that I should get the posts down 36” (I live in north NJ) and use concrete to secure the posts.

Here’s a basic map of the layout:

IMG_3665.jpeg
I thought that if I could do the chain link portion, I might just use the contractor to do the ornamental aluminum sections.
Thanks,
Franck
 

jyoutz

Well-known member

Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
2,991
2,033
113
Edgewood, New Mexico
I just had some chain link installed. The contractor drove the steel pipes instead of digging holes. He had a machine to pound the pipes. I would have them set by the contractor. You can install the top rail and hardware. Yourself, and maybe stretch the fencing mesh.
 

racerboy

Active member

Equipment
B2601
May 10, 2021
110
49
28
NJ
I just had some chain link installed. The contractor drove the steel pipes instead of digging holes. He had a machine to pound the pipes. I would have them set by the contractor. You can install the top rail and hardware. Yourself, and maybe stretch the fencing mesh.
THanks jyouts. I read about machines that drive the posts in, but I don't know if they would work where I live. There are rocks from basketball-size up to office desk size everywhere. I think even with digging holes with an auger machine, you would still need to do manual labor to get the rocks out of the way. But I could still ask the contractor for a price on just setting the posts.
 

Trimley

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BX23SLSB-R-1 plus additions
Jul 25, 2023
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PNW-WA
I'd imagine Aluminum adds a lot to the cost. Consider standard Galvanize out back. IMO Galvanize is more durable.
 
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Vlach7

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L47 305DT JD500C
Dec 16, 2021
346
252
63
Frazier Park Ca
Put in over 3000' of field fence, 4" squares, around my 13 acres to make the DW happy, had to remove the 4-strand barb wire first, took me a year because my carpal tunnel got so bad while doing it, I had to have both hands cut. Corners or any openings need to have the H configuration for strength, and I cemented those in. Every 150' I put in a strong oil well pipe cemented in, the rest was T posts, which I invested $800 for a Honda motor driver, whole project with gates was just under $10,000, 3 years ago, so lots more now.
 
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jyoutz

Well-known member

Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
2,991
2,033
113
Edgewood, New Mexico
Put in over 3000' of field fence, 4" squares, around my 13 acres to make the DW happy, had to remove the 4-strand barb wire first, took me a year because my carpal tunnel got so bad while doing it, I had to have both hands cut. Corners or any openings need to have the H configuration for strength, and I cemented those in. Every 150' I put in a strong oil well pipe cemented in, the rest was T posts, which I invested $800 for a Honda motor driver, whole project with gates was just under $10,000, 3 years ago, so lots more now.
Yep, fencing isn’t a cheap project. Rather you buy materials and do it yourself or hire it done, any substantial fence is a construction project. It’s both labor and materials intensive.
 

racerboy

Active member

Equipment
B2601
May 10, 2021
110
49
28
NJ
I'd imagine Aluminum adds a lot to the cost. Consider standard Galvanize out back. IMO Galvanize is more durable.
Thanks Trimley
We definitely want the two sections of aluminum fence because they are more outward facing. I went to the Hoover Fencing website and they have a good calculator on material costs. Based largely on my drawing, it looks like the chain link material cost would be $6500 and the aluminum fence material (which I don't think I would try to do myself) is $4300. I used 10' wide gates (4 of them) and my fencing contractor used 8' wide gates in his estimate, but it still looks like at least $10k in materials. I honestly had no idea on the cost.
 

Trimley

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BX23SLSB-R-1 plus additions
Jul 25, 2023
1,185
877
113
PNW-WA
We had 5ft chainlink fence installed when we moved in-to the place were at, 25 years ago, due to our pets being eyed by Coyotes. There was also a big bear in the area which was marking trees higher than I can reach. I'm 6ft. Over the years we've had a few BIG Cougar pass through, to which put myself and the neighbors on alert.

Back when we had our fence done, it was a pretty good hit to the finances, so I understand.
 

Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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I have no idea how your dog wants to roam or what animals may want to get into your fenced area but leaving it open at the large rock seems like a bad idea to me. Also avoid getting chain link (or any net fence) close to trees to avoid the tree encapsulating the wire (and making it difficult to cut the tree down if needed).

You will be able to build the fence yourself if you are somewhat fit but it will be work and take time. You have the option of getting it built temporarily with t-posts if you need it up in a hurry. Then build it a section at a time.

I’m not sure why you want the chain link but it is heavy to move it around in the rolls (but all fence is heavy) but you may consider a field fence that will come in a 335 foot long roll or 2x4 no climb horse fence usually is in 50 or hundred feet rolls.

I would recommend that you either have the holes dug by someone else or rent a post hole digger that has hydraulic down pressure and can reverse. All post holes could be dug in a few hours if a skid steer is used.

And make the posts at the gates deep holes (5-6 feet) and use large diameter posts so the gate won’t sag.

You might also look into expanding foam instead of using concrete for the line posts.
 

Motion

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota MX5100HST/FEL
Aug 17, 2020
540
302
63
Mandeville Louisiana
Consider an electronic dog fence. Once your desired fence is installed, the dog will dig out if he has a mind to, and you'll be stuck maintaining 375 feet of fence row. Even with a very secure fence be reminded other varmints can still get in, most dogs are good, but let him corner a mother racoon and it could get ugly Everyone wants to keep their pets safe but living in the woods is the nature of the beast. Consider an additional dog/dogs, I maintain 4-5 labs in the event I lose one. Additionally, if you elect chain link fence place the knuckles at the top and barbs at the bottom, you don't want him to rip his belly open if he decides to go up and over.
 

jaxs

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Equipment
B1750HST
Jun 22, 2023
735
522
93
Texas
THanks jyouts. I read about machines that drive the posts in, but I don't know if they would work where I live. There are rocks from basketball-size up to office desk size everywhere. I think even with digging holes with an auger machine, you would still need to do manual labor to get the rocks out of the way. But I could still ask the contractor for a price on just setting the posts.
No posthole digger will go through rock. With rocks that size you better read the fine print on contract to see if rock drilling is extra (I would expect it to be).