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I lived nearby in a previous life. When Georgia Ave was a quiet back-road and a halfway decent motorcycle route. I drove by the "capital for a day" sign hundreds of times. Also worked with a bunch of yuppies who pretended to be hippies and liked to eat lunch at the Olney Alehouse.Capital for a day! My home was already there in 1812 as well. So I received the tractor yesterday, and test drove it, etc before handing over payment. They are getting me a WSM mailed to me. First thing I did after he left was blow off the rad screen, took out and blew out air filter, checked lug nuts, and dumped out the water in fuel/water separator which was full. Had to clean the fuel screen too that was nasty. Its got a quarter tank of diesel that seems like its been there for a bit. Water filled back up pretty quick in separator.
They gave me a new oil filter, and Im putting in 5w40 Rotella synth this weekend (oil looks brand new on dipstick though since theres only 71 hrs on machine). Ordered grease gun and grease, and will fill with fresh diesel.
These dont shift well on the fly....I guess cause they dont have synchros. I dont really need to anyway, but noticed grinding/hard to get into next gear when I did.
Thanks all for the input and help! Ill post a pic of it on the property in a sec from phone
Yep, been driving new Hampshire Ave daily for over 30yrs now. Still love the area, but it's changed a lot.... But at the same time not at all.I lived nearby in a previous life. When Georgia Ave was a quiet back-road and a halfway decent motorcycle route. I drove by the "capital for a day" sign hundreds of times. Also worked with a bunch of yuppies who pretended to be hippies and liked to eat lunch at the Olney Alehouse.
I don't know about your particular tractor, but I'd be very surprised if you should shift on the fly. Every tractor I've ever had (before this one), you put it in the gear you wanted, advanced the throttle, and let the clutch out. I don't know people that tried to shift on the fly even with my JD 3020, which was advertised to be able to shift between (some) gears on the fly. Ask guys that know about your tractor, of course
I have a Homestead "Pinnacle Series " box blade that I am happy with. I am sure there are others that are as good or better, so my only advice is to be mindful of how the Scarifiers are adjusted if you decide on a box blade.Haha, bingo.... Box blade or flat blade for driveway and brush hog. Any input yall? Hope to find some used stuff on fb marketplace
I have a Homestead Pinnacle series box blade, 72", that I am trying to sell. I'm not too far away, Hedgesville WV.Haha, bingo.... Box blade or flat blade for driveway and brush hog. Any input yall? Hope to find some used stuff on fb marketplace
I'm late to this party, but pretty sure the only gears synchronized are 3-4 (7-8). At least on my 3901, which should be same trans as 3301. I would strongly advise against trying to shift from 1-2(5-6) or 2-3(6-7) on the fly, though with low load and low rpm it usually goes smoothly. Somewhere, either in the owners manual or the product brochure it mentions which one is synchronized.Good to know.... I got on it and proceeded to drive it like my manual car. When shifting from a stop into any of the 8 gears it's fine. Didn't know tractors just went from 0 to go in any gear. Now I know, haha
I finally was able to get the op manual that states to come to a complete stop when shifting gears. Doesn't say anything about 3/4 synch or dog eared gears. It's fine and not a problem to stop, but moving from stop to 4H loads the clutch a little more than I'd like for longevity.I'm late to this party, but pretty sure the only gears synchronized are 3-4 (7-8). At least on my 3901, which should be same trans as 3301. I would strongly advise against trying to shift from 1-2(5-6) or 2-3(6-7) on the fly, though with low load and low rpm it usually goes smoothly. Somewhere, either in the owners manual or the product brochure it mentions which one is synchronized.
Our L245DT was like this as well except nothing was synchronized. After 40 years of use, it became synchronized though dt wear.
Messicks is right up the road from you and I order most of my parts from them. I have no use for the old Gaithersburg Tractor dealership.Capital for a day! My home was already there in 1812 as well. So I received the tractor yesterday, and test drove it, etc before handing over payment. They are getting me a WSM mailed to me. First thing I did after he left was blow off the rad screen, took out and blew out air filter, checked lug nuts, and dumped out the water in fuel/water separator which was full. Had to clean the fuel screen too that was nasty. Its got a quarter tank of diesel that seems like its been there for a bit. Water filled back up pretty quick in separator.
They gave me a new oil filter, and Im putting in 5w40 Rotella synth this weekend (oil looks brand new on dipstick though since theres only 71 hrs on machine). Ordered grease gun and grease, and will fill with fresh diesel.
These dont shift well on the fly....I guess cause they dont have synchros. I dont really need to anyway, but noticed grinding/hard to get into next gear when I did.
Thanks all for the input and help! Ill post a pic of it on the property in a sec from phone
Most tractors have synchros only on the split shifts - so if you have H/M/L that has no synchro, then 1,2,3,4,R usually has no synchro, and then if you also have a H/L or a shuttle shift, that would have a synchro on it.I finally was able to get the op manual that states to come to a complete stop when shifting gears. Doesn't say anything about 3/4 synch or dog eared gears. It's fine and not a problem to stop, but moving from stop to 4H loads the clutch a little more than I'd like for longevity.
Haha, yea I quickly learned that with double clutching as a fixMost tractors have synchros only on the split shifts - so if you have H/M/L that has no synchro, then 1,2,3,4,R usually has no synchro, and then if you also have a H/L or a shuttle shift, that would have a synchro on it.
If you want to shift when moving you'd typically need to learn to double declutch (double clutch in the US). Which is usually hard to do on a tractor with the heavy clutch they usually have, and means the by the time you've finished doing it you've come to a stop anyway.