Transfer Switch for Generator Power in Outages

[RCW]

We have a bathroom(s) project coming this fall. As such, lot of electrical work.

While that e-work gets done, would like to add a transfer switch/plug for a new generator. Limited to the 50A output.

Not set on any switch, but thinking about something like this. Would turn on/off circuits as needed:

Reliance 510C 120/240-Volt 50-Amp 10-Circuit Pro/Tran 2 Indoor Transfe – Generator Factory Outlet

What works for you?

Are there strict limitations on how far a plug can be from the Transfer Switch?

What are the limitations on a cord's length between the plug and the generator?

For many years I've run our 5,500 watt genny outside the garage overhead doors...almost 70 feet from the service panel. (Opposite ends of the house/attached garage)

I've always just run extension cords to individual appliances, etc. in the house.

I put in a subpanel with 2-220v outlets just inside my garage doors years ago.

I know many folks that "backfeed" their service through a 220v outlet after shutting off the Main Breaker on the Service Panel/Load Center....I thought I would to the same.

I just can't make myself backfeed for several reasons. I can easily fashion a cord, but there's some other safety problems with it.

I know many of you guys have automatic standby generators. That's great for you. Probably not in the cards for us right now. I need something I can run off a decent sized portable generator when I get one.

 

[ctfjr]

You really need to 'size' the wire you are running between the generator and transfer switch. There are plenty of internet sites with tables showing you wire size vs current flow / distance.

Backfeeding the panel without some absolute safety is just wrong.

 

[RCW]

You really need to 'size' the wire you are running between the generator and transfer switch. There are plenty of internet sites with tables showing you wire size vs current flow / distance.

Backfeeding the panel without some absolute safety is just wrong.

True - I did have to do some research for the sub panel project. I think I used 4/3 Romex as well as 6 THHN with that.

 

[VaGlock]

I have a smaller version of the Reliance transfer switch, it works very well, not difficult to install (with some electrical knowledge), do not need to have power disconnected (pull meter) by the electric company. You do have to match the proper switch for the generator output and what you are trying to power in the home.
Here in Virginia it is illegal to back feed a generator into your panel.

 

[GrizBota]

I’ve got a pair of these. One for each 200 amp panel. It goes on the back of the meter base and feeds the panel from there. When the power is out, pull down the red lever and plug in the genny. The plug in is mounted about 30 Ft away and will accept up to 60 amps. Could wire it to accept more or less. Then I go to the main panel in the house and flip off a breaker I don’t want to power, like the water heater or heat pump.

I might have done some backfeeding way back.

 

[dclauria]

What brand of electrical panel do you have? I'm an electrical contractor and have installed many 30amp and 50amp generator inlet boxes with an appropriate "interlock kit" for a portable generator.
Sqd Homeline and Qo for newer panels can be found easily and cheaply online.
Older sqd panels and other brands can be found at interlockkit.com
Use #10 copper for a 30amp inlet box and #6 copper for a 50 amp.

 

[Motion]

I don't have but have reading good things about it Seems like someone came up with a good idea. you will still need to load shed.
GenerLink - How it works - YouTube

 

[RCW]

What brand of electrical panel do you have? I'm an electrical contractor and have installed many 30amp and 50amp generator inlet boxes with an appropriate "interlock kit" for a portable generator.
Sqd Homeline and Qo for newer panels can be found easily and cheaply online.
Older sqd panels and other brands can be found at interlockkit.com
Use #10 copper for a 30amp inlet box and #6 copper for a 50 amp.

Thanks for the info.

It is a newer Square D Homeline panel. 200A-40 space.

 

[Tughill Tom]

I installed that TS in Aug. with a Honda -5000/7000 Watt gen. which will be on the back porch when needed.
EZ installation the hardest part was running the #6 THHN's down the conduit with 4 elbows in 15ft run.
I'm not a big fan of back feeding out of a sub, too many ways to keep the incoming line hot. So I put a L14-R30 twist lock next to the meter pan and run to the basement for a full independent power source.

I'm expecting the Fearful leader's in Albany to issue rolling blackouts this winter to get full compliance with their program .

 

[The Evil Twin]

Just a thought..... why not install a whole panel transfer switch (manual is only $100 more than the one you linked)? Yeah, you would have to have a licensed Sparky install it. But, you could then choose whatever circuits you want to go hot at any time. You would also be prepped for a larger generator if you wanted.
We did this at an old house. Reason being, we could shift power anywhere we wanted. Not limited to the circuits we initially selected. Also, we could turn everything else off and turn on the water heater to keep showers bearable.
You could still run the water heater in the panel you posted. Just keep it off until you want to heat up the water.

 

[sagor]

Consult an electrician first. There are two types of transfer panels, one that switches the neutral, the other does not. Switching neutral is usually for portable generators, which usually have neutral bonded to ground internally (Which is usually the frame). The other transfer switch is for typical home standby generators, where neutral is floating, and must be tied to the house neutral.
Electrical codes vary, so check first. A lot depends on the type of generator you plan on using. The general rule is that neutral must connect to the ground at one and only one place in any house (usually at service entry), else you can get ground loops.

 

[chim]

Just a thought..... why not install a whole panel transfer switch (manual is only $100 more than the one you linked)? Yeah, you would have to have a licensed Sparky install it. But, you could then choose whatever circuits you want to go hot at any time. You would also be prepped for a larger generator if you wanted.
We did this at an old house. Reason being, we could shift power anywhere we wanted. Not limited to the circuits we initially selected. Also, we could turn everything else off and turn on the water heater to keep showers bearable.
You could still run the water heater in the panel you posted. Just keep it off until you want to heat up the water.

This is what I installed for Wifey's cousin several years ago. Looks a little odd with a 200A Normal (Utility) feed on one side and a 30A Emergency (Generator) on the other. Works just like Evil Twin stated - it's the customer's choice what runs and Cousin appreciated the ability to choose circuits he needs.

Of course there's a possibility of turning on too many circuits and testing the 30A breaker, but you'd be surprised how little power is needed if you don't run some of the big loads.

 

[dirtydeed]

RCW, I used the very same transfer switch when I ran a portable genny without issue. My run was only about 30 feet from the 50 amp receptacle to the transfer switch. Pretty sure it was wired with 10/3.

I now have a standby gen setup, so the transfer switch is no longer needed. But, I keep it in place as a backup should I ever need it.

 

[Poohbear]

Now that I have a 22kw standby gen & auto transfer switch , that's what I recommend. Why have to go outside and setup -start portable ? I know, cost for convience is more than some will pay.
With a propane furnace, on demand water heater, 25seer Inverter heat pumps, 100% LED lights, only load shedding I do is unplug the hot tub . Gen sets about 15 ft from house on my rv shed concrete, can't hear it running in house thanks to nearly 7 in of foam insulation.

 

[RCW]

I don't have but have reading good things about it Seems like someone came up with a good idea. you will still need to load shed.
GenerLink - How it works - YouTube

I may be wrong, but seems like I heard some negative things about those.

I will look further, because I like the idea.

 

[RCW]

Just a thought..... why not install a whole panel transfer switch (manual is only $100 more than the one you linked)? Yeah, you would have to have a licensed Sparky install it. But, you could then choose whatever circuits you want to go hot at any time. You would also be prepped for a larger generator if you wanted.
We did this at an old house. Reason being, we could shift power anywhere we wanted. Not limited to the circuits we initially selected. Also, we could turn everything else off and turn on the water heater to keep showers bearable.
You could still run the water heater in the panel you posted. Just keep it off until you want to heat up the water.

Didn’t occur to me to do so, but this deserves some serious consideration …..part of the reason I liked the generlink thing in the meter pan.

Looks like chim did the same thing.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Didn’t occur to me to do so, but this deserves some serious consideration …..part of the reason I liked the generlink thing in the meter pan.

Looks like chim did the same thing.

As Lon Solomon would say "not a sermon, just a thought"

 

[chim]

Didn’t occur to me to do so, but this deserves some serious consideration …..part of the reason I liked the generlink thing in the meter pan.

Looks like chim did the same thing.

It wasn't as recent as I thought. The pics are 10 years old

The existing service cable came down inside the wall in the garage to a flush-mounted 200A breaker, then down out of the breaker to a 200A panel in the basement. The "transfer switch" wasn't any more involved than a small 200A panel with two breakers that were mechanically interlocked. The Normal 2P 200A breaker in the TS is fed from the power company meter and the Emergency 2P 30A* comes from an inlet plug on the exterior of the garage where the generator is plugged in.

I had to cut into the wall and break the incoming line to wire the TS electrically between the power company meter and the 200A breaker. To do that I used a box with sufficient depth to be back into the wall to catch the existing cable and get a nipple between the new box and the existing 200A breaker. It also had to stick out of the wall enough to catch a piece of trough. Thought that looked cleaner than a bunch of conduit bends. Took a good 1/2 of a Saturday till it was wrapped up.

* - Could have been either a 30A or 50A, don't remember.

 

[trial and error]

I have a smaller version of the Reliance transfer switch, it works very well, not difficult to install (with some electrical knowledge), do not need to have power disconnected (pull meter) by the electric company. You do have to match the proper switch for the generator output and what you are trying to power in the home.
Here in Virginia it is illegal to back feed a generator into your panel.

I've got the 6 circuit reliance switch and love it
I put it in (pretty much idiot proof if your competent) and later found put I'm suppossed to have a certified electrician do it (oh well) I probably have my 60 feet of wire from the panel to the garage outlet/plug undersized (gauge) for a larger generator and I only used 1/2" conduit. Howver my genset only does 4000 watts peak so I'm not pulling much at a time the only big draw is the initial kick of the 120 volt well pump amd that's the only time I notice a big draw obviously the window ac units and the fridge is the second biggest draw but I try to be smart about my usage becuase of my small harbour freight generator, and turn the A.C.'s off if someone is taking a shower but I can rotate 2 5000 BTU window units a chest freezer a mini fridge and a full size fridge/freezer the boiler the well pump and several led lights/outlets by being smart with my setup. Someday I will upgrade the wire and conduit size and bury it but for now the setup works well, and has been for 3 ish years
Edit: my wire size is 10 gauge with 4 individual runs in the same conduit the wire was cheaper then romex and is multistrand so carries loads better then single strand romex perhaps my setup isnt as undersized as I thought especially with the low wattage generator I am using

 

[RCW]

We have public water, so don’t have to sweat well pump load.

I really want a whole-house transfer switch. Unfortunately, I don’t think it’s in the cards during our upcoming bathrooms project.

There’s obviously a bunch of electrical work to be done. Concerned a whole-house switch and reliance on our utility to be responsive might scuttle the bathroom job.

At this point, doubting I can get an electrician in to get the switch installed ahead of the bathroom job.

When we did our kitchen 15 years ago, I planned ahead to have a new service installed.

Didn’t foresee a whole house switch for this project.

That’s my bad. Should have asked the question 6 months ago. I did have a thread about generators a couple years ago, but not the connection to the house.